Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration

[MickB]

Can anybody help with previous posted question?

[bryanj]

When its in the right way round the alternator cover stops it coming out and hold the O ring in a sealing position. At least you didnt start the engine with the cover off and have to spend days looking for that plug in the dimmest darkets places

[MickB]

Thanks BJ, but the nipple fits into the little cut out in the alternator cover and there's  spot in the gasket for the plug.

It looks like it would be pushed out onto the cover and oil would leak out?

The nipple doesn't look very long to me stop the o ring from coming out too much and letting oil leak.

[strynboen]

you can fix the vires on old coils..just use copper type auto vire..solder the new vire inn..and epoxy the hole

[MickB]

Thanks strynboen but the wires are too short and I'm looking for a brand new look.

[strynboen]

alles klar...

[MickB]

Strynboen it's a good fix though, you should put it in Tips and Tricks

[MickB]

Sprung an oil leak from the oil plug behind the alternator (was in backwards), however does it have something to stop it popping out into the alternator cover.

The alternator cover does have a cut out where the oil plug seats.

Is there some sort of retainer/ spacer? It looks like it can pop out a little way. It looks like it should, but there's nothing showing in the schematic.

Back on this oil plug.

The question is why is it designed to move outwards? There is 7.21 mm from the rear of the plug to the bottom engine face, then there's the gasket with cutout to accommodate the nipple of the plug if it is pushed outwards, the cutaway in the alternator case is a further 9.22 mm. If the plug is pushed out under pressure it can move 7.21 mm max. But from the O ring's depth in the oil passage is only around 4 mm till it pops out of the passage.

What holds it in place so it doesn't pop out and leak?

I'm perplexed.

[Bootsey]

How long is the stalk piece on that plug of yours? It looks like it's seen a bit of a rough time. I'll see if I can pop the cover off mine and get a measurement of the stalk to compare.

[bryanj]

All i know is put it in the right way round with gasket and cover and there is no leak, BUT if that picture is of the plug I don't think its a genuine one

[MickB]

Thanks guys, the stem's been pulled out with plyers I think, it's genuine I believe.

Bootsey thanks for the offer but don't pull the cover off.

Even when it was in backwards it stayed in place and didn't pop out, it only wobbled a little, so it was in tight enough.

I've ordered a new one plus the 3 screw in caps.

I'll wait and see what the new one looks like.

[Bootsey]

Mine one here measures about 6.5mm & the stalk sits about flush with the gasket surface.

[MickB]

I'll measure tomorrow and let you know. I'm waiting for CSMNL.

[MickB]

Bootsey here's my plug

[bryanj]

If you check closely with the generator cover you will see a small curved shape  inwards towards the cast hole and the pin of the plug sits on that so does not go into the hole, the little groove that leads from the hole to outside is to let the oil out if you have a leak. Sorry the answers are a bit sporadic but the work hours are incredible at the moment and the desktop 'puter is semi dying

[MickB]

BJ really appreciate the reply and it comprehensively answers my concern. Work unfortunately gets in the way of lots of other more exciting things.

Too easy, the little curved part holds it in.

I presume the hole in the gasket must be there to let any oil out that seeps out.



Why didn't they just use a spacer to keep it in place or easier still a screw in plug just like the other 3 plugs.

[bryanj]

Cutting a thread costs more and takes more time than reaming a hole that has been machined to provide oil flow, also its easier to remove and clean out the secret additive that can get anywhere oil does (Cr*p). Its like the crosshead screws, might only be 1cent each less than the later hex head but think of how many millions they buy!!

That plug is an easy thing to miss, I found out about it when checking oil flow to the top end before fitting generator-----took me 2 days to find the plug in the most obscure corner of the workshop!!

You have done well and got a nice bike there.

I now spend a lot of time on the UK forum as I live there, come and have a look on http://www.sohc.co.uk

[MickB]

BJ thanks for your update and the suggestion to look at the advance mechanism, I had it 180° out.

Honda would save on a production line bit by bit.

I am a member on the UK site so I'll make sure I drop in for a chat with the Poms.

I found this on Thursday in the shed and a mate's son came and cleaned it for me today while I fixed the front brake light(it works now) and fixed an installation mistake I'd made with the headlight.





I've installed the incorrect steering stem, the one on the bike doesn't have the steering lock. A beginners mistake.

While I'm waiting for the parts from 4 into 1 and CSMNL I'll paint it and install it so it'll be the correct stem.

Also a big thank you to Dino and Hack a Week, I watched his points gapping and how to set the firing by using the multi meter a number of times, a huge help.

[bryanj]

Multi meter works but if you get an old idiot light bulb holder with bulb and put a croc clip on each lead then connect one lead to the casing and the other to the spring that tensions the contacts, with the ignition on the bulb will light at the exact point when the contacts open, I think this is shown in the Honda manual.

What I actually have is a side marker bulb holder from a Daf 105(don't tell the boss) with about 9 inches of cable and croc clips with a 12 volt 501 bulb works ideal on timing and also for chasing lost electrons in the loom. I can put up a pic if you want or even post you one, but that may be pricey from UK to you

[MickB]

Great idea, I'll make one as I've got plenty of idiot light wiring with bulbs

[MickB]

BJ a photo would be great.

Swapped over the steering stems, just need to put all back together.

[MickB]

Swapped steering stems now I'm wondering if it's from a 750?

Note the small gap. I can't get the gap to close.



Any ideas?

[MickB]

I've got to work out why there's a gap at the top the the fork ears. Anybody got an idea?

Since the tank lining is new should I rib eye it with petrol before I use it?

Only need to put the tank and side covers on then register it.

Bought in October 2013 finished May 2016, I thought 2 years, but summer was so hot I couldn't be bothered, and it's May in Sydney and we're still getting 30° (86°F)!



Swapped out the oil passage plug - no leaks and bought 3 new oil plugs, still to install. I think I'll change the oil when I swap the plugs over, comments?

Big big thank you to Calj737 the ace (for his sarcasm - which as we all know is the lowest form of wit and he's very good at it), SohRon for his build, BJ from the UK, Boostey,  Resto Fan and many others for their builds and photos, many were an inspiration to me to do things better. The tips and tricks in the forum and the answers when I got stuck (electrics). The parts that were offered and sent to me.

[Trad]

It's idling nicely. Great job!

As for the gap on the fork ears. Do you have room to remove or clearance any spacers from the steering neck assembly? That would bring the triple clamp down a bit and eliminate the gap you have. It could be at the bottom of the head tube as well, bringing the lower bridge upward.

[MickB]

Cal I've put a POR15 tank sealer kit in it, I hope there's no rust found.