Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138512 times)

MickB · « **Reply #950 on:** March 27, 2016, 05:30:46 pm »

I found the The Keihin carb model numbers Theyare 069A. Cal your chart says these are for a '75-'77 550 with 98/38 jets. I've jetted them 100/40, will they work ok or do I need to raise or drop the needles.

Or should I replace the jets with the 98/38 jet?

I'm running a stock air filter with oil filled foam filter (Uni) with 4/1 Delkevic exhaust with full baffles.

What jetting should I use? If I take out the baffles should I change the jets?

I've also a set of 4 627Bs, should I use them instead?

Any help would be much appreciated.

calj737 · « **Reply #951 on:** March 27, 2016, 05:57:06 pm »

I wouldn't change anything prior to a full and final tune. The ride it and perform a plug chop. The specs are so close to yours, may not need anything. "Might" need slightly different needle position.

But only test and tune will tell.

MickB · « **Reply #952 on:** March 27, 2016, 06:14:22 pm »

Thanks for the advise, no main jets in the others only idle jets 40s.

627Bs are pretty clean though.

MickB · « **Reply #953 on:** March 27, 2016, 06:26:43 pm »

I've also got another problem - electrical!

Idiot lights go on, can't get the starter to spin the engine, horn barely makes a sound, no lights or indicators.
I'm wondering if the battery is shot? I've had to recharge it many times. It's showing 12.9 volts.

Has the battery been sitting too long, shows voltage but under load dies in bum.

BTW I didn't have this problem until I've let it sit for 4 months!

MickB · « **Reply #954 on:** March 27, 2016, 07:31:07 pm »

It sometimes takes a while for the cogs to whir and the brain to engage.

I pulled the battery out of the ZZR and everything works fine.

A new battery is needed.

MickB · « **Reply #955 on:** March 28, 2016, 01:08:36 am »

Good news filled the carbies with petrol, no leaks.

calj737 · « **Reply #956 on:** March 28, 2016, 01:33:11 am »

Quote from: MickB on March 27, 2016, 06:26:43 pm

I've also got another problem - electrical!

Idiot lights go on, can't get the starter to spin the engine, horn barely makes a sound, no lights or indicators.
I'm wondering if the battery is shot? I've had to recharge it many times. It's showing 12.9 volts.

Has the battery been sitting too long, shows voltage but under load dies in bum.

BTW I didn't have this problem until I've let it sit for 4 months!

Quote from: MickB on March 27, 2016, 07:31:07 pm

It sometimes takes a while for the cogs to whir and the brain to engage.

I pulled the battery out of the ZZR and everything works fine.

A new battery is needed.

What are you just posting rhetorical questions now? OR are you simply thinking out loud with your fingers on a keyboard? People always ask me why I talk to myself so much. My reply is: "Because I want to have an intelligent conversation".

I hope that battery is still covered under a warranty if its that new.

MickB · « **Reply #957 on:** March 29, 2016, 02:20:28 am »

Well mr sarcastic, I think if I have these questions going through my little brain others may have the same questions running through their little brains also and it maybe of assistance. Most of us are amateurs at this and are bumbling our way through and hoping for some help from some of the brains trusts to help with practical advise.

But I do love intelligent conversations.

BTW I'm sitting thinking if I need to check the spacers between the wheel bearings and if the spokes need retuning.

calj737 · « **Reply #958 on:** March 29, 2016, 03:33:59 am »

Take it easy, Mr Sensitive. It was all in good fun. Besides, we all know how doddering old blokes yammer on to nobody

I've been found guilty of the same thing on countless occasions.

You are right. Got a question? Post it. Find the answer? Post that. It's how we all learn.

Why do you think the spacers and spokes need checking?

MickB · « **Reply #959 on:** March 29, 2016, 05:24:08 am »

Who's sensitive now, my last rave was firmly tongue in cheek.
I still enjoy an intelligent conversation though.

calj737 · « **Reply #960 on:** March 29, 2016, 08:26:11 am »

Not me, my friend. I like having my stick and stones kicked in from afar!

bryanj · « **Reply #961 on:** March 30, 2016, 09:52:31 pm »

Talking to yourself is fine, arguing with yourself is questionable, loosing the argument means a call for the men in the white coats.

PS first sign of madness is hair on the knuckles

Second sign is looking for it

MickB · « **Reply #962 on:** March 30, 2016, 11:20:02 pm »

Feels more like banging you head against a brick wall, it feels good when I stop.

MickB · « **Reply #963 on:** March 31, 2016, 06:11:14 pm »

Bled the front brake and its not releasing and it's keeping the wheel from turning.

I've undone the 2 bolts keeping the brake line connected and tried applying the brake and the piston is not grabbing and when I push the piston back it goes back easily. So I don't think it's the piston.

Could the brake pads need filing back a wee bit? It's all I can think of to fix it.

Or should I remove the nylon washer from behind the pad? Is the nylon washer causing it to be a bit proud?

Any suggestions.

Stev-o · « **Reply #964 on:** March 31, 2016, 06:14:59 pm »

Hey Mick....New pads? Some are painted on the side (on the metal) and are too tight a fit.
I've used a wire wheel to remove the paint.

MickB · « **Reply #965 on:** March 31, 2016, 06:38:18 pm »

Thanks Stev-o.

They're new pads I'd already sanded off the paint as the photo shows, only paint now is on the backside of the pad.

The only thing that makes sense to me is the floating pad is too thick.

Or is the aftermarket piston too long?

MickB · « **Reply #966 on:** March 31, 2016, 11:57:48 pm »

What is the depth of the chrome trim around the seat?
Does someone know?

bryanj · « **Reply #967 on:** April 01, 2016, 09:44:46 pm »

the brake problem is almost certainly the tiny hole in the master cylinder blocked, been discussed many times on the forum

calj737 · « **Reply #968 on:** April 02, 2016, 04:06:48 am »

I'm with bryanj. Mick, carefully unscrew the MC cap. Actuate the brake lever. Watch for any fluid returning or small bubbles in the reservoir. If you don't have fluid cycling through the system, then your MC is the issue. The return of the fluid actually "pulls" the piston back into the caliper, thereby releasing the pads.

Its very common for the return hole to become obstructed. I don't recall whether you bought a new repop MC or rebuilt yours. Or neither. But if you rebuilt it, the piston inside the MC must be extremely clean and pit-free. If you didn't rebuild, David Silver sells a very decent unit that is style appropriate for about $40 (USD). Better than rebuilding and far less headache.

Just be incredibly mindful about protecting ALL PAINTED surfaces from the brake fluid.

riverfever · « **Reply #969 on:** April 02, 2016, 08:20:40 am »

These are the same symptoms mine had when I rebuilt the caliper and had issues with the piston not retracting.

MickB · « **Reply #970 on:** April 02, 2016, 02:44:24 pm »

Thanks guys.

It's a brand new master cylinder, new woven brake lines, and I'm positive all return holes in the brake housing were clear when I rebuilt it.

I filed down the pads a bit more and it's freed up a lot. Brakes are now working and releasing fine, however.......

When I move the bike and lean it over to the left its harder to push, when it returns to vertical it's becomes easy again? Somethings not right.

Any ideas? Bearings?

BTW I spent yesterday polishing the whole bike, each spoke and nipple, chrome and alloy getting ready for riding.

Just waiting on getting some more zinc plating on the choke lever, I forgot to get plated originally. So had to pull them apart to get it out.

I'm really motivated to get it running quickly.

Any day now.

calj737 · « **Reply #971 on:** April 02, 2016, 05:30:49 pm »

Use a feeler gauge and measure the clearance top and bottom of the pad-to-rotor on both pads. It's possible your caliper is mounted with a slight kilter due to alignment of the mounting.

Other things to check, axle clamps snug and oriented correctly? Fender mounted properly? And are your forks properly tightened and equal length?

bryanj · « **Reply #972 on:** April 03, 2016, 09:09:36 am »

Wheel bearings have been known to give the problem you state

MickB · « **Reply #973 on:** April 03, 2016, 03:53:00 pm »

BJ are saying the bearings are incorrectly installed, have they been damaged when I installed or do I have one not seated correctly?

bryanj · « **Reply #974 on:** April 03, 2016, 10:54:26 pm »

If the are new then either damaged on install or spacers/clamps not correct, is ther any play sideways at the rim with bike on centre stand and front elevated.

One other part that siezes up is the pivot pin on the caliper swinging arm

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138512 times)