Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138487 times)

MickB · « **Reply #975 on:** April 04, 2016, 02:45:55 pm »

Thanks, I'll check out all suggestions, my hunch is the bearings and the internal spacer.

MickB · « **Reply #976 on:** April 08, 2016, 07:14:32 pm »

Still to check out the front end. But I got back some zinced parts for the carbies.

The schematic doesn't show anything but is there a felt washer behind the spring in where the choke lever goes into the carby body? There's a little recess in the carby body

What is the Special washer #14?

MickB · « **Reply #977 on:** April 12, 2016, 07:20:51 pm »

Anyone regarding the carby question?

MickB · « **Reply #978 on:** April 13, 2016, 05:24:21 pm »

Can someone chime in regarding the carby question regarding #14 special washer and are there other washers in the recesses?

I'm holding off putting the carbs back on until I'm sure of the correct way, the schematic is unclear to me.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #979 on:** April 13, 2016, 07:34:02 pm »

If it is a felt seal then it is a heavy felt, not upholstery or run of the mill felt. McMaster Carr carries a hard felt and Iam sure you can probably find it elsewhere if Honda cannot source the felt seal. It is often used on carb shafts through the body and it is usually greased to seal and block dirt from getting into the joint causing carb body wear. They can often have a very thin aluminum or steel washer over them.
BUT, I don't know if this washer is felt or other material. I have not needed to tear my carbs apart to that level.

A direct PM to Harrisluv can yield an answer. He rebuilds them for others. Let him know the carb body # you are dealing with...

Often specific questions like this can be answered directly by posting a question in a new thread. Sometimes you miss a reply on a thread and sohc4 forum doesn't notify you about an update but once. Until you visit that thread again, then the notify is reset...

MickB · « **Reply #980 on:** April 13, 2016, 08:11:14 pm »

Thanks RAF, I'm thinking of using an O ring in place of the felt washer.

bryanj · « **Reply #981 on:** April 13, 2016, 11:17:41 pm »

Tried that, it dont work. You need a set of hole punches and some appropriate felt

MickB · « **Reply #982 on:** April 17, 2016, 08:21:29 pm »

I've read oil used in diesels (She'll Rotella)is the oil to use in these old engines.

Any opinions?

bryanj · « **Reply #983 on:** April 17, 2016, 11:27:34 pm »

Yup, its Ideal, dont forget its changed every 1500 miles. Here in UK we have Tesco and their own brand diesel oil is exactly the spec for the old Hondas, might be worth you checking Walmart or similar looking at the SAE ratings and you DO NOT want synthetic or Semi Synthetic UNLESS its a Bike specific one---and they cost too much anyway

MickB · « **Reply #984 on:** April 18, 2016, 01:25:36 am »

Thanks BJ, we don't have Walmart in Oz, but I take your point.
We only have unleaded here, do I need to put some additive to help valves etc?

bryanj · « **Reply #985 on:** April 18, 2016, 11:32:37 pm »

Nope, they were built to run unleaded in the first place but get the one with least ethanol mix

RAFster122s · « **Reply #986 on:** April 19, 2016, 12:10:56 am »

ZDDP added to your oil is advisable, HondaMan documented some of the additives and lubes and most all auto oils simply don't have enough protection for our motors and they have not for over 5 years. Some of the motorcycle oils do, some don't...so there isn't a single brand commonly available here and abroad that is universal.

Valves and other parts need the ZDDP, but too much is bad as not enough.

David

MoMo · « **Reply #987 on:** April 19, 2016, 03:48:35 am »

Rislone if you have it down under...Larry

MickB · « **Reply #988 on:** April 21, 2016, 12:05:51 am »

Thanks boys re the oils and top end lube.

Carbs are back on and filled with petrol and not leaking!

Pressed the start button and it's turning over fine but not firing! But it did backfire, so I need to work a bit more on the timing I think, stating the obvious.

Timing isn't my strong suit either.

Front brake switch (was brand new) doesn't seem to want to work, need to chase the lines through and find out what's the problem.

calj737 · « **Reply #989 on:** April 21, 2016, 02:29:55 am »

Mick - Is it possible you have the points wires swapped between 1/4 and 2/3? This basically swaps your coils to fire on the wrong signal. Stock, BLUE should be on the left coil running 1/4, YELLOW on the right coil, running 2/3. The "backfire" is an indication of fuel present, but a bad spark.

Turn off the petcock for the time being, check your coils, verify your timing (statically) and try again to fire the bike. There's ample fuel in the bowls for it to fire, but not run for long.

MickB · « **Reply #990 on:** April 21, 2016, 03:09:19 am »

Thanks Cal, I was thinking the exact same thing, I just watched Dino's installing the points plate and coils. I'll watch again and follow the process, so close now.
Still no tank or side covers on yet, they'll be the last parts that go on the bike. I'm too scared about scratching them.

I'm expecting big things tomorrow.

MickB · « **Reply #991 on:** April 21, 2016, 07:09:03 pm »

I presume the firing line is just to the left of the F mark and the next line to the left is TDC?

bwaller · « **Reply #992 on:** April 21, 2016, 07:19:01 pm »

That is correct. If it was a strong backfire Cal could be right. Sorry just read the last three posts, but did you have the points cam off the advance and re-install 180d out?

MickB · « **Reply #993 on:** April 21, 2016, 08:10:06 pm »

BW and Cal the plug wires were incorrect. I had the left coil to 1 & 2 and the right coil to 3 & 4 - all fixed left to 1 & 4, right to 2 & 3.

BW yes I did clean the advance mechanism, maybe I did, check the photo at the end of this post.

As I set the points on the F line, they're not opening just past the F line?

BW is the advance unit set 180° out?

There is a dot just down from the 2.3 mark, should the line on the cam line up with the dot?

MickB · « **Reply #994 on:** April 21, 2016, 09:07:44 pm »

BW you're right it was 180° out, now fixed.

MickB · « **Reply #995 on:** April 21, 2016, 10:09:09 pm »

I placed the leads to the plugs incorrectly, I now have coils with the plug leads too short, it's trying to start on 3 cylinders - doh!

MickB · « **Reply #996 on:** April 21, 2016, 10:38:56 pm »

We have lift off - rigged up a temp solution to the plug lead problem a wire to the plug.

MickB · « **Reply #997 on:** April 22, 2016, 01:43:11 am »

Seeing I have to replace the left coil (1 & 4 cylinders), does anyone have a recommendation for a coil?

MickB · « **Reply #998 on:** April 22, 2016, 01:55:15 am »

Also oil is pouring out from the alternator case which I placed the little oil plug in backwards, the boss was pointed inwards.

I had this around the other way and it was loose, I presume the alternator case keeps the plug in place by pushing against the little boss?

Bootsey · « **Reply #999 on:** April 22, 2016, 02:38:07 am »

Awesome work on getting it running Mick, you must be stoked!
Is the o-ring on that plug the right outer diameter?

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Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 138487 times)