Topic: Trad's 74 CB550 K0

[Trad]

Jared,

I like how you mounted the headlight bucket - nice nuance.

Be very careful about that Anti-Gravity Battery.  They are not highly tolerant of shorts.  See the attached recent picture from Ryan Da Silva in Vancouver.  After he had a short the battery EXPLODED.  No bueno!!  Anti-Gravity and Ballistic have received some bad reviews about exploding lithium-ion batteries. 

I'm not saying you have to replace it; it might be fine.  If you decide to replace, I recommend swapping brands -- maybe to a Shorai. If cost is a big concern, try Alien Motion.  I would stick with Shorai, myself.

Don, thats crazy! I have two shorai's that I can use as a backup. With using all LED lighting I should be able to get away with this one. I like the size. haha. I just tossed the antigravity battery n the charger and it charged back up in a few minutes. Voltage looks fine with the meter too. I''ll monitor it though. Like Cal said, it should be ok. The terminals arched for less than a second.

Thanks for the heads up though, always appreciated.

I'm a fan of lithium-ion batteries in general.  Faster charge time, little to no drain, lighter and smaller that gel batteries.  Frankly, I don't know why anyone buys the water/lead maintenance batteries unless they are going for a die-hard restoration.

No doubt. Li-ion batteries are the way to go these days, The technology is better and they are maintenance free essentially. The water/lead batteries will always probably hold a place in the hearts of the old-schoolers though. Some don't like change. haha

[Trad]

Well, after a long absence on this build it looks to be getting back on track.

I located a 77 550 bottom end from Gennaro (fellow Sohc4 member) and that is going to be sent to Mark (Hondaman) later next month. I have had my NOS primary, cam chain, and all lower end seals boxed up for almost 5 months awaiting shipment to Mark. He will do his thing on the lower end. I just don't want there to be any questions and I know if I do it, there will be plenty of best guesses. haha.

Since the electronics pan is too small to house both the battery and M-unit, i'm tinkering with the idea of making an alloy bracket for under the rear cowl that I will bolt to the factory plastic mud guard. I mean the battery is light enough that it shouldn't be a problem and then I won't have to weld or repaint anything on the frame. It seems like the best solution. Option two is to make a small battery sling that I can fasten to the swing arm.

Anyway, I'm not really doing much until the bottom end is done. I have seriously been dreaming about assembling the top end and firing this thing for the first time. I cannot wait to hear how it sounds.

 

[GV1390]

78' *

 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Well, after a long absence on this build it looks to be getting back on track.

I located a 77 550 bottom end from Gennaro (fellow Sohc4 member) and that is going to be sent to Mark (Hondaman) later next month. I have had my NOS primary, cam chain, and all lower end seals boxed up for almost 5 months awaiting shipment to Mark. He will do his thing on the lower end. I just don't want there to be any questions and I know if I do it, there will be plenty of best guesses. haha.

Since the electronics pan is too small to house both the battery and M-unit, i'm tinkering with the idea of making an alloy bracket for under the rear cowl that I will bolt to the factory plastic mud guard. I mean the battery is light enough that it shouldn't be a problem and then I won't have to weld or repaint anything on the frame. It seems like the best solution. Option two is to make a small battery sling that I can fasten to the swing arm.

Anyway, I'm not really doing much until the bottom end is done. I have seriously been dreaming about assembling the top end and firing this thing for the first time. I cannot wait to hear how it sounds.

You might want to consider a tray similar to (or just buy one) Cognito's deep electronics tray.  It is deep enough to hide a Shorai A2 form battery, M-Unit, and other necessary electronics.  It will be barely visible from the side.  http://cognitomoto.com/collections/electronics/products/under-seat-electronics-tray-cb550

[Trad]

I have a deep tray too Don. haha. It was my idea for Devin to make the deep tray in the first place, way back when. I want to keep the triangle completely clear, so the deep one will go on another build.

[Trad]

78' *

 

Sorry, 78! Thanks Gennaro. haha

[Trad]

Leave the battery in the tray, locate the m-unit under the tank. You have room on the backbone to install a rivet nut and bolt the m-unit there, then run your wires to it very discreetly. Or mount the m-unit on a faux fender bracket.

Hey Cal, that's a good idea, M-unit on the frame backbone. Have you done this have a picture? I get the idea, seeing a photo would help though.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Interesting.  I'm trying to figure out the best location for the reg/rectifier (sold state unit) keeping the triangle relatively open but allowing it to get good airflow. 

Cal: how necessary is it to provide the M-unit and other electrical components fresh airflow?

[Trad]

Interesting.  I'm trying to figure out the best location for the reg/rectifier (sold state unit) keeping the triangle relatively open but allowing it to get good airflow. 

Cal: how necessary is it to provide the M-unit and other electrical components fresh airflow?

That M-unit is solid state so I would say it doesn't even need airflow.

[Trad]

I had a picture, but space on my phone and laptop is at a premium, so I just cleaned them out.

Check with Devin's 750 two-up brat build. Maybe check his build thread from last year and see if there's a picture in there.

I went through all his photos with no luck. Did he drill a hole through the tube and mount the M-Unit on it's side?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I had a picture, but space on my phone and laptop is at a premium, so I just cleaned them out.

Check with Devin's 750 two-up brat build. Maybe check his build thread from last year and see if there's a picture in there.

I went through all his photos with no luck. Did he drill a hole through the tube and mount the M-Unit on it's side?

Dunno, but I (too) am curious.  I'm trying to gather ideas of how exactly I am going to mount the electrical components in my 750 and 650/550 builds.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Jared, Are you running standard or mini coils?  I am running a set of the Dyna mini-coils so I can stuff the CDI boxes and probably the M-unit all up there.

[Trad]

Jared, Are you running standard or mini coils?  I am running a set of the Dyna mini-coils so I can stuff the CDI boxes and probably the M-unit all up there.

I'm running 5OHM Dyno coils, they they are regular size I believe. I've never seen the mini coils. 

[Trad]

M-unit doesn't need airflow. Reg/Rec does.

M-unit was installed on the backbone, "parallel" to it. You might even be able to install behind the coils on a suspended bracket of your own fashion.

For the Reg/Rec, I'm installing the unit for my 500 build where the stock horn was for maximum airflow. Wiring will be wrapped and run up and under tank.

That's a great spot for the reg/rec. I was going to mount it under the electronics pan, I may reconsider that now.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

M-unit doesn't need airflow. Reg/Rec does.

M-unit was installed on the backbone, "parallel" to it. You might even be able to install behind the coils on a suspended bracket of your own fashion.

For the Reg/Rec, I'm installing the unit for my 500 build where the stock horn was for maximum airflow. Wiring will be wrapped and run up and under tank.

That's a great spot for the reg/rec. I was going to mount it under the electronics pan, I may reconsider that now.

That's where they are on the Triumphs

[RAFster122s]

Just to clarify, just because something is solid state doesn't mean it doesn't need cooling.  Solid state refers to built by components, I am betting that it is microprocessor circuitry with surface mounted components,  not solid state componentbuilt. The power usage by the M-unit is probably small, therefore yielding low heat output and capable of cooling enough even in a box if mounted so it can transfer the heat to the box so it can have radiant cooling.

David

[Trad]

Just to clarify, just because something is solid state doesn't mean it doesn't need cooling.  Solid state refers to built by components, I am betting that it is microprocessor circuitry with surface mounted components,  not solid state componentbuilt. The power usage by the M-unit is probably small, therefore yielding low heat output and capable of cooling enough even in a box if mounted so it can transfer the heat to the box so it can have radiant cooling.

David

You are totally right. I know what what solid state is though, why I used the term. haha. The M-unit shouldn't need additional cooling due to the lack of moving parts and relatively low electricty usage. Solid state electronics are less likely to fail in high temps, even if they got hot.  In all honesty I thought the M-Unit was solid state but it could be the other option you described. I'm no electronic master.

[Jimsun]

Sub'd. Where abouts did you get the seat? I love the colour and style of it too

[RAFster122s]

Sub'd. Where abouts did you get the seat? I love the colour and style of it too

If you go back and read the thread you find that info in post 401.

[MessnerMoto]

I am really impressed:) . I really love that patina look. I am planing same form my engine. I need one advice from you.... how do you achieve that patina look of engine aluminum parts? And what clear coat u are using after?

[Trad]

I am really impressed:) . I really love that patina look. I am planing same form my engine. I need one advice from you.... how do you achieve that patina look of engine aluminum parts? And what clear coat u are using after?

Thanks! I'm guessing your are talking about the valve cover? It had a fair bit of corrosion so I just removed all the old paint with stripper and sanded it. I didn't start with too coarse a grit as I wanted to leave some of the age marks. I believe it was 400-800 all wet. Then I just used mothers polish by hand.

It is the only piece that will really look like that though. The cases will be stripped and painted silver, while cylinder and head are both bead blasted and will be left bare without paint or clear. I'm not worried about oxidization or anything, frankly I welcome it. I think it adds a cool contrast between the look of old and new.

[MessnerMoto]

I am really impressed:) . I really love that patina look. I am planing same form my engine. I need one advice from you.... how do you achieve that patina look of engine aluminum parts? And what clear coat u are using after?

Thanks! I'm guessing your are talking about the valve cover? It had a fair bit of corrosion so I just removed all the old paint with stripper and sanded it. I didn't start with too coarse a grit as I wanted to leave some of the age marks. I believe it was 400-800 all wet. Then I just used mothers polish by hand.

It is the only piece that will really look like that though. The cases will be stripped and painted silver, while cylinder and head are both bead blasted and will be left bare without paint or clear. I'm not worried about oxidization or anything, frankly I welcome it. I think it adds a cool contrast between the look of old and new.

Why not the hole engine with addition of clear coat. I am planing to do exactly that

"while cylinder and head are both bead blasted and will be left bare without paint or clear."

Maybe you can add clear coat after 2/3 months( Or age it artificially with some moisture). To stop further oxidation. Probably there is a point in time where the patina will look the best.

[Trad]

I am really impressed:) . I really love that patina look. I am planing same form my engine. I need one advice from you.... how do you achieve that patina look of engine aluminum parts? And what clear coat u are using after?

Thanks! I'm guessing your are talking about the valve cover? It had a fair bit of corrosion so I just removed all the old paint with stripper and sanded it. I didn't start with too coarse a grit as I wanted to leave some of the age marks. I believe it was 400-800 all wet. Then I just used mothers polish by hand.

It is the only piece that will really look like that though. The cases will be stripped and painted silver, while cylinder and head are both bead blasted and will be left bare without paint or clear. I'm not worried about oxidization or anything, frankly I welcome it. I think it adds a cool contrast between the look of old and new.

Why not the hole engine with addition of clear coat. I am planing to do exactly that

"while cylinder and head are both bead blasted and will be left bare without paint or clear."

Maybe you can add clear coat after 2/3 months( Or age it artificially with some moisture). To stop further oxidation. Probably there is a point in time where the patina will look the best.

No clear or paint on the head because I can't be bothered to paint it. haha. Less to do and less to chip. It's simpler. I've left alloy engine parts bare after media blasting in the past and have never been bothered by how they age. To some it may seem lazy but I only really care about how they look on the inside; and this thing is going to pack some serious punch.

[MessnerMoto]

I dig it completely. Maybe I will follow. Maybe you will change my mind

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

How's your everyday bike riding, Jared?  Hope you are healing up from your latest BMX ouch.