I use fine steel wheels, usually get them at the hardware store or NAPA. I use it on every thing , but you have to be gentle with the aluminum parts, lightly brush off only what you need off , like oxidation or old clear coat.I use the side of the wire brush because it isn't as harsh.I clean nuts and bolts with this too,especially the threads, then buff out the heads. All of the above is on a bench grinder
Then with a tight buffing wheel ( I use white)buff out the scratches.(on a bench grinder, runs stronger and faster than a HF Buffer and the base won't blow off.
I've used brass wheels before , didn't find them to be effective, took longer and threw wires more and left a finish like the fine steel anyway . You can go to medium for removing rust and paint from the frame and hard metal (not aluminum, it'll scar the hell out of it)
Always, no ,ALWAYS WERE EYE PROTECTION, and a face and neck shield so you don't get thrown wire stuck in your neck or face. I don't were gloves on a bench grinder but I do were welder's gloves with the hand grinder .Know your limits with the hand grinder, it can suddenly jump if you get it jammed in a tight spot like in the crotches where the side cover tabs are and around the center stand,and neck area. It'll take you skin easier than the paint. There will be areas that you will have to sand blast that the grinder just can,t get. I keep a 1 gallon, over the shoulder sand blaster around for that, throw the frame in a dryer or refrig box, shoot the hard spots/rust spots with black beauty. done.
Don't do this in holy pants or shorts, the wire will get in the socks and stick it to ya when you least expect it. ouch.
