Author Topic: 80' GS1000G - Starting Project back up (Read 16816 times)

Stev-o · « **Reply #50 on:** December 29, 2013, 04:10:35 PM »

Here is the manual, but for the C E S & L.

How much different is the G?

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1000_C-E-S-L_Manual.pdf

CBJoe · « **Reply #51 on:** December 29, 2013, 05:02:51 PM »

Thanks...I've already got the manuals from that site. The G is a supplement at the end of the PDF.

What I'm looking for is a nicer high quality PDF of the wiring schematic. The one in the manuals is ok, but bad scan.

I just need to get an original non-scanned manual, but haven't done so yet.

CBJoe · « **Reply #52 on:** January 02, 2014, 08:27:12 PM »

Making some progress....got my order from Vintage Connections and have been working through the connections. As you can see, lots we're in pretty rough shape.

Looks like I need to replace an entire length of one of the ground wires. Kind of hard to see in pic, but started stripping the insulation to put a new bullet on and found the copper to be corroded all the way back down the length/run of the wire

. Couldn't have been helping things.

CBJoe · « **Reply #53 on:** January 02, 2014, 08:28:43 PM »

On a side note though...picked up a can of DeoxIT contact cleaner. Plastic Safe! It's working wonders on the connectors that aren't in too bad of shape. Made the fuse box look almost new.

MoMo · « **Reply #54 on:** January 03, 2014, 02:57:35 AM »

that stuff did work well! Where did you get it?...Larry

CBJoe · « **Reply #55 on:** January 03, 2014, 06:23:52 AM »

Radio Shack Carries it... expensive, but worth it. Very easy to simply spray into male/female connectors and the connect/disconnect them to clean the terminals. Also flushes the junk out of the connector housings.

http://deoxit.com/

Cheers, Joe

MoMo · « **Reply #56 on:** January 03, 2014, 07:37:33 AM »

Quote from: CBJoe on January 03, 2014, 06:23:52 AM

Radio Shack Carries it... expensive, but worth it. Very easy to simply spray into male/female connectors and the connect/disconnect them to clean the terminals. Also flushes the junk out of the connector housings.

http://deoxit.com/

Cheers, Joe

thx Joe...Larry

CBJoe · « **Reply #57 on:** July 26, 2014, 02:18:51 PM »

So I finally got back to the Suzuki's wiring harness mess. I had to cut out and replace a number of wires that had cracked and hardened insulation and also replaced quite a few bullet connections and other connectors. vintageconnections.com was a lifesaver here!

All contacts cleaned and most of the grounds have now been re-crimped and soldered. ran the harness ghetto like and plugged everything but the rear brake lights and flashers in and tested it out.

It works!

Bike turns over well and all seems to be good

May run the remote gas tank to it tomorrow and see if it will actually start. May have to pull the carbs as they sat with some gas it them. We'll see.

Cheers, Joe

CBJoe · « **Reply #58 on:** July 26, 2014, 04:14:41 PM »

Couldn't wait till tomorrow. Hooked up fuel line, pulled choke and she started right up! Little bit of fan noise on the ipad, but the engine sounded super smooth. Very pleased...will work on it more tomorrow.

Joe

Stev-o · « **Reply #59 on:** July 26, 2014, 04:23:15 PM »

Congrats! Always a good feeling when they start up after sitting a while. Sounds pretty healthy, is it almost ready for a road test?

CBJoe · « **Reply #60 on:** July 26, 2014, 04:35:19 PM »

It was very gratifying to hear it start right away.

It could be close to a road test. But probably not for a while yet. I've got a lot of cleaning to do and also I need to get the harness all wrapped and re-installed.

I do believe that it has a weeping head or base gasket as well. Trying to decide what to do about that. First I need to get it all cleaned off to see where its coming from. I may do some spot painting on the frame most of it is stripped of wiring and such.

But at least I now know where I stand on whether it runs or not.

Cheers, Joe

750cafe · « **Reply #61 on:** July 27, 2014, 07:26:03 AM »

Quote from: CBJoe on July 26, 2014, 04:35:19 PM

It was very gratifying to hear it start right away.

It could be close to a road test. But probably not for a while yet. I've got a lot of cleaning to do and also I need to get the harness all wrapped and re-installed.

I do believe that it has a weeping head or base gasket as well. Trying to decide what to do about that. First I need to get it all cleaned off to see where its coming from. I may do some spot painting on the frame most of it is stripped of wiring and such.

But at least I now know where I stand on whether it runs or not.

Cheers, Joe

Try loosening each stud nut a little, applying some penetrating oil in the well of the threads when loose and re-torquing to a max of 35 Ft.Lbs. in the proper order one at a time.
Also recheck the three 6mm bolts and torque them to 6.5 Ft.Lbs. AFTER you have done all of the stud nuts.
Also, ADD a ground wire from the R/R mounting bolt to the battery (-) and another from the battery (-) to one of the battery box mounting bolts.
I use 12ga. wire for the extra grounds myself.
She sounds good!

Eric

CBJoe · « **Reply #62 on:** July 27, 2014, 09:05:10 AM »

Quote from: 750cafe on July 27, 2014, 07:26:03 AM

Try loosening each stud nut a little, applying some penetrating oil in the well of the threads when loose and re-torquing to a max of 35 Ft.Lbs. in the proper order one at a time.
Also recheck the three 6mm bolts and torque them to 6.5 Ft.Lbs. AFTER you have done all of the stud nuts.
Also, ADD a ground wire from the R/R mounting bolt to the battery (-) and another from the battery (-) to one of the battery box mounting bolts.
I use 12ga. wire for the extra grounds myself.
She sounds good!

Eric

Hey Eric,

Done....Thanks. I remember discussing this with you on the phone a while back. I used 14 Gauge for now, but will take another look at all the grounds when I put everything back together properly.

Couple quick questions:

- Something was loading down the fuse for the circuit used by the turn signals and brake switches. Fuse would blow after 3-4minutes of being on. I unplugged the TSCU and all seems to be good.with the TSCU removed, all the flashers and brake lights work properly. Is there any reason I cant leave this off? Just making sure there isn't some hidden function I don't know about. I could care less about self-cancelling turn signals.....none of my other bikes has that function

- At idle (1500rpms) i'm getting 14.5V across the battery. This seems high to me at idle. i'm used to around 13V at idle and then increasing to 14.5 ish volts as the rpm's increase.

Cheers, Joe

CBJoe · « **Reply #63 on:** July 27, 2014, 10:08:00 AM »

Whelp....walked away and carbs flooded airbox and i'm sure into the engine

So off they come... will do a basic disassembly and inspection and take them to work for ultrasonic cleaning.

Stev-o · « **Reply #64 on:** July 27, 2014, 12:27:00 PM »

sticky float valve?

CBJoe · « **Reply #65 on:** July 27, 2014, 12:54:42 PM »

I'm sure it was a sticky float. But I wanted to take the carbs apart anyway, so here was my excuse.

Gives me an excuse to do even deeper cleaning on everything.

Joe

750cafe · « **Reply #66 on:** July 27, 2014, 09:33:32 PM »

Petcock fubar? I don't like the self-cancelling turn signals either, I prefer to do it myself.

14V at idle might be showing a regulator problem but check those grounds first.
As long as it never gets over 15V at any rpm, I would not worry about it.

Eric

CBJoe · « **Reply #67 on:** July 28, 2014, 03:42:45 AM »

Quote from: 750cafe on July 27, 2014, 09:33:32 PM

Petcock fubar? I don't like the self-cancelling turn signals either, I prefer to do it myself.
14V at idle might be showing a regulator problem but check those grounds first.
As long as it never gets over 15V at any rpm, I would not worry about it.

Eric

I was using a remote fuel tank to test....so there was no vacuum operated petcock it that's what your asking.

Cool...I'll keep an eye on the voltage when I get it running again. When I checked the voltage would never get over 14.6 volts.

Cheers, Joe

grcamna2 · « **Reply #68 on:** July 28, 2014, 12:00:31 PM »

Quote from: 750cafe on July 27, 2014, 07:26:03 AM

Quote from: CBJoe on July 26, 2014, 04:35:19 PM
It was very gratifying to hear it start right away.

It could be close to a road test. But probably not for a while yet. I've got a lot of cleaning to do and also I need to get the harness all wrapped and re-installed.

I do believe that it has a weeping head or base gasket as well. Trying to decide what to do about that. First I need to get it all cleaned off to see where its coming from. I may do some spot painting on the frame most of it is stripped of wiring and such.

But at least I now know where I stand on whether it runs or not.

Cheers, Joe

Try loosening each stud nut a little, applying some penetrating oil in the well of the threads when loose and re-torquing to a max of 35 Ft.Lbs. in the proper order one at a time.
Also recheck the three 6mm bolts and torque them to 6.5 Ft.Lbs. AFTER you have done all of the stud nuts.
Also, ADD a ground wire from the R/R mounting bolt to the battery (-) and another from the battery (-) to one of the battery box mounting bolts.
I use 12ga. wire for the extra grounds myself.
She sounds good!

Eric

+10 on what Eric said

CBJoe · « **Reply #69 on:** July 30, 2014, 04:07:52 AM »

Carbs are all separated and taken apart except for the floats. So all of the float pins are pretty stuck on these carbs. Looks like someone actually tapped them in place last time judging from the scuffing on the fanged side of the pin. Praying I don't accidentally break a post getting them out.

Anyone ever used this method of removing stuck pins?

Mikuni CV carb float pin removal

Need to do some searching on the forum, as I know there have been a number of tips/tricks posted on different methods of removing stuck pins.

Otherwise the carbs are all pretty clean...just had a lot of sediment from sitting for so long.

Regards, Joe

750cafe · « **Reply #70 on:** July 30, 2014, 07:45:30 AM »

I use that method every time. That is one of my "help" videos BTW.

Just try to support the stand with your finger when impacting the pin.
$3.00 tool at Harbor Freight that is "priceless".

Eric

CBJoe · « **Reply #71 on:** July 30, 2014, 07:46:58 AM »

Ha! I didn't pay attention to the poster of that...funny it was you

Looks like i'm stopping by harbor freight on the way home.

Cheers, joe

CBJoe · « **Reply #72 on:** July 30, 2014, 04:06:16 PM »

Quote from: 750cafe on July 30, 2014, 07:45:30 AM

I use that method every time. That is one of my "help" videos BTW.
Just try to support the stand with your finger when impacting the pin.
$3.00 tool at Harbor Freight that is "priceless".

Eric

Holy crap...that's the best tip I've been given in a while. All 4 pins punched right out with very little fuss! That punch is going to remain stored with my little box of carb tools from now on.

Question. I dont have a pic right now, but one of the floats was missing the little spring wire retainer which appears to keep it from falling out when you turn upsidown without the float installed. Is that thing really necessary? The BS34's on my Yamaha didn't have it....I'll have to source one if its really needed.

Cheers, Joe

750cafe · « **Reply #73 on:** July 30, 2014, 10:55:52 PM »

I also have seen them both ways.
Perhaps they are not necessary but, I try to keep all carb parts the same just to lessen any future doubts.
Did you clean the needle seats with a Q-tip and some metal polish?
Did you clean the float needle tips with some 0000 steel wool?
And MOST importantly, did you replace the O-rings around the needle seats?

Eric

CBJoe · « **Reply #74 on:** July 31, 2014, 04:58:32 AM »

Thanks. All that will be done. I ordered all o-rings from cycleorings.com and will be taking the carb bodies and bowls to work today to let them sit in the ultrasonic for a while. We have a large ultrasonic bath at work which I sneak to every once in a while.

No idea where to find one of these little spring guys....I actually don't see them in the manual or in any diagrams/pictures online.

Joe

News:

Author Topic: 80' GS1000G - Starting Project back up (Read 16816 times)