Topic: Vintage Speed Part Mashup - 1976 CB750F

[slikwilli420]

Cal, the links take me to the main page of each item, not to the specific one. For the tool, your link shows like 20 different types. Do you have specific links or item numbers to share? I want to get this right the first time.

Guessing its these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-wire-tools/=15rl9cj

And these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire-terminals/=15rl9v2

Unless you use the insulated type.

[calj737]

Drats:
Crimper - https://www.mcmaster.com/#5722K12
Ferrules - https://www.mcmaster.com/#9681K15

[540nova]

Drats:
Crimper - https://www.mcmaster.com/#5722K12
Ferrules - https://www.mcmaster.com/#9681K15

Those are what I use, too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[slikwilli420]

How about this bad boy?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Aven-Crimping-Tool-for-Wire-Ferrules-12-22-AWG-10178/206740289

Looks identical to the one Cal posted, but less expensive.

[calj737]

Should work just fine. 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

These are the ferrules I use:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire-terminals/=15rkzh0

And the tool I use:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-wire-tools/=15rkzxv

Okay 540Nova, go easy. I'm not an aircraft Pro  But I do cover the ferrule end to wire junction with shrink wrap:

So you use the non-insulated ferule?

And which gauge wire are you using, Cal?

[strynboen]

i use to give them some heat schrink..to isolate..it is smaller then the plastic isolated types...and use klear sc. Flex it looks almost stock

[calj737]

I use non-insulated ferrules. I cover the end of the wire and the ferrule joint with heat shrink. I use 22AWG for inputs, 18AWG for outputs.

[slikwilli420]

Ok, going to order the 20-24awg and the 18awg, both 0.31" long from McMaster, and the crimper from Home Depot. Any special wire or as long as its the right size, its good?

[calj737]

I use quality stranded copper. Only.

[RAFster122s]

Have you used a tinned copper stranded wire?  I like it better but it is more expensive and less common as well as harder to find in a lot of colors for the insulation.  It is not good for digital or high frequency use because of the skin effect where the current/voltage/signal is only transmitted on the outer skin of the wire.  Tin being not an ideal conductor makes it unsuitable for anything 1 MHz or higher.  It has an advantage that it will not allow the wire to oxidize like a bare copper wire will.  The copper oxide, green, is actually a semiconductor which is not good.  But with good wire you don't have to worry about the wire oxidizing very quickly.

Another for of copper wire rot is a black oxidation.  Volvos made the mistake of using a biodegradable insulation on their engine wiring harnesses in the early through mid-late 80s. The insulation would become water permeable and start to crumble off the wire.  Often deep in the middle of a harness run and near exposed ends near connector blocks.  Sometimes it would fail in spectacular fashion with small fire and smoke but usually lots of electrical gremlins prior to the smoke events if it got that far.
I have seen both failures and have rewired by hand a few sections.  Factory harness was $1000-1200 at one point before the class action suit lowered it to $4-500.  It is no fun rewiring the engine bay in your driveway during a snowstorm in 20-35F weather.  Got that badge.

So, using good wire is a good idea...less trouble in the long run.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

If you use the insulated ferules, will they fit and eliminate the need for shrink wrap over the joint?

[calj737]

If you use the insulated ferules, will they fit and eliminate the need for shrink wrap over the joint?

Yes, but the "insulated type" of ferrules generally are crap, hard plastic covers like those cheap automotive connectors. Shrink wrap is my preferred method of protecting terminal junctions unless I'm using a Molex connector.

[calj737]

Have you used a tinned copper stranded wire?  I like it better but it is more expensive and less common as well as harder to find in a lot of colors for the insulation.

If you are referring to fully tinned wire, I use it in marine applications, but not in automotive. Any decent boat trailer should be using fully tinned wire, any boat, or vehicle specifically targeted for "aquatic" service. Nothing pisses me off more than to help a friend out with their new boat trailer and discover zinc hardware, general purpose wire, and non-soldered connections.  Fargin' Cheap Bastages! I've re-wired 4 trailers in this past year where that was exactly the case.

[slikwilli420]

Ordered ferrules, crimp pliers and stripping pliers from Amazon last night. I was lucky enough to purchase a horde of wiring stuff from a recently closed chopper shop near my house for pennies so I have more 18AWG wire than I may ever need.

All told, I ended up with 25-50' of at least 4 different sizes of nylon wire loom, a load of connectors, and at least 9 colors of 18AWG wire in spools of 50-250', some use and some new. Also got at least 50' of shrink tubing as well as a roll of larger gauge to make battery cables. Everything including the two sided rolling stand for $80.

Im ready to wire!!!

[slikwilli420]

So the m unit is all set up and ready to start making connections to switches/ power/ etc but that won't happen until I get the unit location finalized.



Also working on a unique way to mount the motogadget push buttons and came up with this



They still need lots of shaping and finishing but it gives you an idea. I had to go this route since there isn't enough clearance to use the clamp on styles that Motone and Motogadget have.

As for running the wires I can either make a small relief in the bar for the terminals on the back of each switch and run them external to the bar or I can drill the bars and run them out the ends in the middle. Thoughts?

[calj737]

Drill, Baby, Drill!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Oh man.  I like that clamp with the Motogadget buttons.  Great idea!

[palepainter]

Yes.  Slick work on that button mod.

[slikwilli420]

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

They are really coming along nicely and now I have both fitted to the bars the way they will sit once finished. All that is left on the parts themselves is hand work to soften some edges.  I will probably get them hard anodized to match the finish of the masters themselves.

Based on Cal's drill baby drill comment  (thanks Cal!) I will drill from the fork clamp to the housing, slot the bar for the back of the switch and run the wires that way for a cleaner look.



I also have another piece I am currently working on. I was going to wait until it was done but I'm just too excited with the way it looks to wait. I wanted to get rid of the tach drive since I won't be needing it. I had a cover with a gouged gasket surface that I cut the piece from to mate to a good cover. Once fitted it went to Jim French for some welding magic. There are some air pockets that will either need to be rewelded or filled with epoxy before finishing.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Those bar controls are amazing. I forgot you running a hydronic clutch too.

[RAFster122s]

Are the cooling fins you deleted on the cover which were designed to increase cooling area really of much worth?  Nice button holders. Are they much of a stretch to reach?
Have you considered hard anodizing the bars or are they steel?  It would make the controls all blend together from any distance with a glance...
Are you going to use some MBlaze signals on her too?
David

[slikwilli420]

Are the cooling fins you deleted on the cover which were designed to increase cooling area really of much worth?  Nice button holders. Are they much of a stretch to reach?
Have you considered hard anodizing the bars or are they steel?  It would make the controls all blend together from any distance with a glance...
Are you going to use some MBlaze signals on her too?
David

I would say the fins on the cover provide no detectable level of cooling so I wasn't worried.

The buttons are a bit on the far side but the farthest ones are for turn signals which I don't have any immediate plans to add but wanted the option. The next closest on the three button control is the horn which I will eventually add but in my opinion can do more harm than good on the street.

The bars are vintage aluminum Tommasellis. I have not thought about anodizing rise as well since I want to keep them in an original state. Even going to get a new sticker for the one bar.

For signals I would get something more period looking so the m blaze would be out.

[calj737]

The porosity you uncovered is not uncommon when you weld 40 year old cast aluminum. You'll go blind chasing those holes and trying to fill them with weld. The more heat you apply, the more they open and the deeper they open.

The only trick I've found to eliminating them is to weld the aluminum with DC and not AC. Gotta use straight He, but it delivers far deeper penetration without the heat effect and reduces the porosity. Then, you can finish with a slick cap on AC for aesthetics. Or you can epoxy fill it and paint it 

[slikwilli420]

What about filling with laser weld? It will go back to Jim for the cam tower stabilizers so it might be worth doing then. I wanted to have it vapor blasted but now I'm thinking that the weld material will stick out and the finished product won't be acceptable.