Author Topic: 1976 CB550F - making it good, one step at a time (Read 121037 times)

Quote from: flatlander on October 11, 2015, 01:18:31 AM
...shrink said i'm so shrunked-up that she had to go get a good shrinking herself!
I wonder if she said that after seeing you emerge from the shower?

Shrinkage?!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #356 on:** October 11, 2015, 05:48:58 PM »

Sometimes I get that issue trying to view a thread and your browser will not have enough memory to display the photos.

flatlander · « **Reply #357 on:** January 02, 2016, 03:31:30 AM »

there was some trouble with the photo hosting site i used, making most pictures disappear.
i restored now what i could. unfortunately some got lost completely but most of them are back.

strynboen · « **Reply #358 on:** January 02, 2016, 05:00:17 AM »

have you poliresed the coils korrekt.
..i have that idea that negative koil konnektion, must go to breakers=frame=negativ to frame
..like the battery..
looks like you have the( Black posetive suply vire from bike vireness ) on minus on the coil..it is a positiv kurrent..and must go on the positive coil konnektion...
if it are konnekted vrong....the spark springs from frame to elektrode..and not from elektrode to frame.(in sparkplug).and the volframe elektrode is not make its nice vork....it jump better the right vay araund...in mine teori...and eats not material of the plug,, so fast

flatlander · « **Reply #359 on:** January 02, 2016, 09:34:36 AM »

hi strynboen, here's the best picture i have of he wiring:

the black wire going into (-) on the right hand coil, is actually blue. you can see the blue piece of insulation tape that i marked it with.

and here the schematics that came with the boyer instructions:

on mine, the yellow wire is the one connecting the coils with each other.
my "blue" (black cable) goes into (-) of my right hand coil, which fires 1 and 4.
black/white goes into (+) of my left hand coil which fires 2 and 3.

so i reversed the left/right coils compared to stock and also compared to the schematics, because it was easier to wire them up this way: shorter linkage between the (+) and (-) of the two coils, with the yellow wire.
i hope this makes sense. should be ok, right?

strynboen · « **Reply #360 on:** January 02, 2016, 10:47:59 AM »

ve have lost the Photos.....

....

Stev-o · « **Reply #361 on:** January 02, 2016, 11:16:43 AM »

Quote from: strynboen on January 02, 2016, 10:47:59 AM

ve have lost the Photos..... ....

+1

strynboen · « **Reply #362 on:** January 02, 2016, 12:08:45 PM »

both collored yellow/blue goes on negative. via points/or ign box..and both Black(/vhite).( power suply).goes on posetive..on the coils... ..
most importment is that power(ignision key power) goes inn the positive marked on both coil..

?they are parelell konnekted from the ignision power suply..that Black vires spleises aut from one vire

looks like the yellow vire goes on posetive konnektor on the coil..
EDIT boyer use a speciel vay to konnekt the coils..its done korrekt

flatlander · « **Reply #363 on:** January 02, 2016, 01:30:06 PM »

ok i think now you should be able to see the images.

this is driving me crazy: i'm using google photos and it seems like i can't directly link an image, i need to put it in an album first otherwise it is not visible.

strynboen · « **Reply #364 on:** January 03, 2016, 03:48:00 AM »

just leave it as it is..you are korrekt..
its just strange...vay to do it..but dont care..its made after the book...alles klar...(..but dont do that vay on a stock bike)

i have the same problems on a moped forum.(.i have been banned/or somthing??)..so have to put the Photos on a galleri.( on forum).that is not bloked..and then i can easy move them to the main forum...

flatlander · « **Reply #365 on:** January 03, 2016, 11:06:11 AM »

thanks for confirming. i'm glad about your electrical expertise!
huh, i hope i'm not banned or something

strynboen · « **Reply #366 on:** January 03, 2016, 11:22:33 AM »

yea..."somthing" can be real bad

and scary...

flatlander · « **Reply #367 on:** January 03, 2016, 12:35:59 PM »

"something" is much more scary than banned... much more scary than anything!

flatlander · « **Reply #368 on:** February 22, 2016, 12:31:50 PM »

remember that valve spring retainer that got damaged by a tappet adjust screw that went loose?
looked like this:

as part of some winter work i decided to replace it. not sure if it was needed but makes me feel better.
i tried to do it with the head in the frame which needed a bit of improvisation: a wire spanner, 6mm bolt, tyre iron, piece of tubing and a rope all helped together to create a make-shift valve spring compressor.

here we go - all good again:

while the cover was off i also retarded the cam a couple of degrees.
when installing it i advanced it a tiny bit, about 1.5 degrees or so (give or take some measuring tolerances). because i wanted to make sure i got as much mid-range power as possible. but now, after seeing how much torque this engine config produces, it turned out to be unnecessary and i could reverse that precaution.

there was also a stripped thread on one of the bolts for the cam cover that i fixed with a helicoil.

so now we're almost ready for spring. although, i do want to revisit the clutch mod that i skipped last year.

strynboen · « **Reply #369 on:** February 23, 2016, 06:28:59 AM »

that gasket you use..is it that silicone type ..vho likes to go Loose and block oil lines

...i use somthing vho is only hardent at preess or airfree in a closed room ..and the rest vill be vashed aut by the oil..
so no big parts vill flow in the main galleryes..and block Things up

flatlander · « **Reply #370 on:** February 23, 2016, 09:50:54 AM »

that stuff is dirko ht. it does have silicone in it, it's very sticky stuff.
i cut off the edges that stand over. the pictures are before clean-up.

strynboen · « **Reply #371 on:** February 23, 2016, 01:46:53 PM »

somone have used it on my 500 twin...and it like to fall of,,and sirkulate inside the engine.to it get stuck in a pressure valve..and Blocks for the oil..or jammed the valvet open..so the pressure falls

.try some of the new types gasket..from berner or wyrth or other big auto/parts dealer.(.this oldscool) silikone types..is not for fine engines.)its more for flanges on ship Buildings stuff

.byild up gasket blops or drips..vill breake of the backside and make problems...the nev gasket types vill just be vashed aut in the oil filter..and not stay in the oil after first start up..they never hardent up..only hvere they are under presured..they get hard.
.its the vhole idea of modern floting gasket types.
.i see you only used it on the rubber plugs...and only at the "autside" avay from any engine oil..

flatlander · « **Reply #372 on:** February 23, 2016, 11:59:44 PM »

good to know, thanks. i will look up those newer brands you mentioned.
to be honest i've had good experience with the dirko but maybe i'm oldschool myself

i usually leave a bit under o-rings and gaskets to boost them, making sure it doesn't have direct contact with oil. that new stuff sounds good, though.

strynboen · « **Reply #373 on:** February 24, 2016, 04:10:40 AM »

yess..thek up the wurth stuff.
.we use it on Work.easy to klean off..and easy to press aut..and get the right place..
.im not alvays beleve in new stuff is better then old stuff..i like the old stuff..but this produkts is just better and safer to use..
but like oil..find the brand you like..ve are not all, in the same..boat..

i have a idea of make some "puchs" in aluminium..vith a groove..to hold a small o ring...and presss them light in the holes...but the Deep is only 2.5 milimeters..not Space for make a groove in the side..for a o ring..or can theu be faund in a 0.5 mm thikness..?or less

flatlander · « **Reply #374 on:** February 24, 2016, 05:38:21 AM »

i guess you mean the rubber pucks - not the puch mopeds although it could be fun to mold them from rubber

just ordered new pucks. if you want i can measure them for you.

the wurth stuff, is it the DP300?

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Author Topic: 1976 CB550F - making it good, one step at a time (Read 121037 times)