Author Topic: Classic Bonneville Racer (Read 119782 times)

RAFster122s · « **Reply #375 on:** September 15, 2016, 03:00:45 AM »

Congrats Dennis! Very cool to see your name there twice. Next year you might be pushing these numbers higher along with the Triumph's record you hold.
I have seen one or two Honda S90 powered w/custom frame Bonneville bikes. It has been several years ago now. They were quite unusual geometry and I think they were partial streamlining class. Don't recall what they indicated was done to the motor...if anything.

Congrats again!
Look forward to more updates...
David

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #376 on:** September 15, 2016, 06:35:32 AM »

Thanks, David..........I have seen a few S90-type bikes.........especially the early push-rod motors........trying to set records.

Scottly.......My thinking was the close ratios between 4-5-6 would help to keep the motor at peak power. Every 2 or 3 mph gain from here on gets to be quite expensive $:-\$ The Ohio-Mile would require BIG brakes to be added so I could slow from 150-mph or more

in about a 1/4-mile distance and then make a hard right turn with minimal ground clearance. I may consider adding the brakes and trying the bike in Maine where the run-way is 2-miles long. Right now I am getting it ready for a show on October 1st.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #377 on:** September 15, 2016, 09:18:12 AM »

If you guys will notice Dennis' little 750 beat out Mr Honda's old 750 record by 5mph PLUS he beat Mr Honda's NEW 1000 (bored out the old record holding engine) record also.

bwaller · « **Reply #378 on:** September 15, 2016, 10:14:30 AM »

Dennis, it surely does make a difference when engine RPM's of a finished shift are in the best torque zone. Dropping out of the power loses time & eats distance! Rob Muzzy said it best, (to a point) that last 15% is the most expensive! I can give you info on one guy capable of getting the work done to tighten those last three ratios if you ever decide to go that route.

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #379 on:** September 15, 2016, 01:24:03 PM »

Thanks Jerry

........But will it beat yours

Brent......$speed is expensive..........you can quote me

New copper head gasket from Dynoman (Cometic) has all 18mm stud holes vs. older unit with 11mm except for the 2 o-ringed studs and the 2 with dowels. Any advice?

scottly · « **Reply #380 on:** September 15, 2016, 07:19:32 PM »

How expensive is a six speed trans?? You can tighten the spread between 3rd and forth by using the 1.133:1 4th from the K7/8 and F's in place of the earlier 1.097:1, and 4th to 5th by using the later .969:1 5th in place of the early .939:1, as you've already mentioned. You will get a finer adjustment by varying the rear sprocket by one tooth than you can get in the trans.

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #381 on:** September 16, 2016, 06:40:23 AM »

Scottly.........that spread between 4th and 5th is the major factor in trying to reduce the percentage of power-loss between the crank and the output shaft. Thanks for the info. We are working on it

Right now we are re-installing the necessary sleeves in the head around the central studs. Our first attempt may have been a bit 'short' on compressing the 0-rings without using copper washers under the stud-nuts. My crew became quite good at recognizing the green Brad Penn oil haze after each run. My leathers are quite soft from the knee down

RAFster122s · « **Reply #382 on:** September 16, 2016, 07:57:46 AM »

Dennis,
I guess I never gave it a lot of thought about why the gearing and torque curve react the way they do...makes sense on why Brent put the six speed in his race bike.

Not that you asked ...
Sorry for creating and going down a rabbit hole. Not trying to sidetrack the thread.

Just reminds me of some stuff I read by a respected MC author who knows gear and having done a but of leather work...

Oil tanned leather is one method used...vegetable tanned being the other method.
I don't know if it helps the leather's protective nature against shredding or tearing on hard surfaces. I don't recall the merits of either other than oil tanned is generally resulting in a softer hand to the leather.
Memory being what it is...
Soft leather is usually more comfortable and dried leather gets really hard and rigid in some areas of the hide.
I have seen asphalt be quite different in various areas of the country as well as the texture and finish of the asphalt being coarse of finely packed and dense...smaller material. The coarse stuff naturally chews through stuff very quickly...

The boutique leather jackets (even seen in some "motorcycle" jackets) will often be really comfortable and look like they will provide the protection of leather but they provide very little road rash protection.
(Irregardless of the roughness of the road, as friction is going to be there for whatever you go down on.) I wonder how many of the leathers sold to the crotch rocket riders who go for the look of boy racer actually provide sufficient protection.

Gear producers such as Hanson and many of the other well respected MC leathers used by competition racers using the correct type of leather and the correct parts of the hide.

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #383 on:** September 22, 2016, 06:19:01 PM »

David........thanks for the thoughts...........yes, this type of competition requires a bit of knowledge regarding gearing/torque/rpms/and available HP.

Today we ran the motor after successfully completing the re-assembly. Everything is good

Most of you know the F2 head requires special care to properly seal the oil-access holes when married to a K-cylinder. Our original attempt was not very successful

This does not effect engine performance.......but it sure makes a mess if you don't get it right

This time we machined longer alloy tubes to provide space at both ends for same-size O-rings. Because the new head-gasket has larger holes, we dabbed a bit of weather-strip sealer on the O-rings set on the cylinder to hold them in place until the head was installed and the new tubes were inserted. No leaks upon startup

RAFster122s · « **Reply #384 on:** September 22, 2016, 11:50:41 PM »

Dennis you are masterful at understatement, requires "a bit of knowledge"
To coax a 750 to 130mph on the salts located at less than sea level requires a lot of knowledge.

Oh pictures...those are some nice clear and detailed shots.Good camera work. Congrats on getting her back together and running again, not that it is a surprise.
Keeping fingers crossed on the fix working.
If it were easy, everyone would do it...referring to your speed records....

Thanks for the eye candy.

Sure was a lot of salt in the fender.

Are you planning on catching any other timed courses this year for the bike?

David

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #385 on:** September 23, 2016, 07:43:15 AM »

RAF.......the Aussies run below sea-level..........Bonneville is just over 4000 ft. but has air-density ranging from 5000 to 8000 ft. No plans to run elsewhere. Right now I am back to working on the final assembly of a CL77 and then some vacation trips to California; N. Carolina; and then back to California. Other than a local show or two, the bike will sit until warm-weather when we will begin fabricating a proper seat/tail section. Although its not a 'drag-bike'.........it has a lot of drag to overcome

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #386 on:** October 27, 2016, 12:33:28 PM »

Our state governor is not up for re-election this year............but he did send me a congratulatory letter about the landspeed records. Today I received a congratulatory card from one of our US Senators.

I found a video of several salt-flats runs and discovered that the independent photo-journalist captured my return-run for the record. It can be viewed on this link http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,16354.0.html beginning at 9:17 and running through 9:45..............turn your sound up for a sweet noise at 137.7 mph in 5th gear. Note the pit-row in the background. The measured mile is between the posts with the green flags.

754 · « **Reply #387 on:** October 27, 2016, 08:32:03 PM »

Man way to go Dennis...
I could not even imagine our goverment doing that...

scottly · « **Reply #388 on:** October 27, 2016, 09:11:35 PM »

The C.B.R was certainly singing a tune!!

Hmm, is there a standing record for an SOHC 200-250 CC single cylinder??

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #389 on:** October 28, 2016, 07:43:39 AM »

Frank, Thanks...........Its possible that a staff-member became aware of the records, but the signatures are originals

Scottly........In a few weeks I expect to get a video made by one of my crew-members of the 4th-gear run. It should be 'singing' at a higher note

Speed trials do not count cylinders. Not too many Honda products would qualify for the vintage (pre-'56) class. The smallest cc-category in Classic ('56-'80) is 350 which is currently held by a CB350/4 at 80+mph in production trim. For modern bikes the 250 over-head cam models include the RS250 bikes at well over 100 mph. Several 250cc push-rod bikes hold records in the upper 70s to upper 80s including my Triumph Cub at 88.7.

scottly · « **Reply #390 on:** October 28, 2016, 09:32:16 PM »

Thanks Dennis, I can cross the little XR off the list of potential candidates. What is the next size up from 350 in classic? Would a CB 400-4 have to run with 500 cc bikes?

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #391 on:** October 29, 2016, 07:10:36 AM »

350..........500............650..........750.........1000cc.......... and the original factory production size (actual, not rounded) can not exceed the class size...........but, you are allowed a 50-thou overbore (1.25mm) in the Classic era classes. So a 736 complies at 762cc. A 400 might be competitive if the rider was a small bag of feathers. Torque is the major factor. The SR500 is very strong in this category. I think a well set-up FT500 would be worth a try. Modified category tends to top out just over 100-mph.........Special construction is a money pit.

scottly · « **Reply #392 on:** October 29, 2016, 11:06:00 AM »

Wouldn't the '82-83 FT be ineligible for classic, or would it be allowed since it was based off the '79 XL? Hmm, I wonder if my buddy's brother still has his old '79 XR....

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #393 on:** October 30, 2016, 06:46:36 AM »

My bad on the FT for Classic competition.................but the XL could be built

scottly · « **Reply #394 on:** October 30, 2016, 07:31:10 PM »

I heard back from Don, and sadly the '79 is gone forever. It would have been the perfect "Bucket List" racer.

Medyo Bastos · « **Reply #395 on:** October 30, 2016, 07:48:31 PM »

Can you share info on the insert sleeves you used?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RAFster122s · « **Reply #396 on:** October 30, 2016, 09:08:06 PM »

Dennis, time to update your signature to reflect the second record holding bike. Adding speed would be nice as well.
David

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #397 on:** October 30, 2016, 09:14:14 PM »

Medyo............Thick-wall 1/2-inch alloy sourced from a local metal supplier. It nicely clears the threads on the studs. I don't know the number but Dave says its good for welding. We use the same material for shift and brake linkage. Center-drilled the holes with a mill. Each sleeve is 20-thou short of the head-thickness to allow room for the o-rings on each end.

David.............will do

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #398 on:** October 31, 2016, 11:15:59 AM »

Rumor has it that Dennis may be needing to add a third title to his line up with the late model stocker F too.

Great to see you and Carol on the surprise visit out on the Great Plains in BFE, CO.

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #399 on:** October 31, 2016, 04:29:57 PM »

It was great to see you at WORK

I think the nearly original '77 F2 will be offered for sale as soon as the painter finishes with the new side-covers. It could be a very affordable candidate for a Classic Production run for someone. BTW.........head-decking, performance cams, empty air-boxes and baffles removed from the exhaust are just a few of the 'legal' tricks allowed in that class. The bike must have OEM parts at all visible surfaces except for sprockets and tires. All lights can be removed and the handlebars can be 'flipped' to lower the grips. Passenger footpegs, center-stand, license-plate bracket, and mirrors are required to be removed. Paint and chrome does not have to be in pristine condition.

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Author Topic: Classic Bonneville Racer (Read 119782 times)