Topic: My Spray bomb paint project

[dlhoulton]

It was time to get my tank and side covers painted and I new I couldn't afford a professional painter to do it. So I searched here and other places on the web for DIY auto/bike painting. I also wanted this to be done as cheaply as possible.  I read several posts and articles on spray can painting. It looks easy enough but one problem. Would it stand up to weather, sun, and especially chemicals (gas). In my search I found that you can use regular rattle can spray paint (acrylic enamel) and cover/seal it using a two part (2K) product like East Woods 2K Aero-Spray High gloss clear coat ($22.99/can) or another, less expensive is Spraymax 2k clear coat (Spraymax Glamour high gloss clear coat $19.38/can). Both of these clear coats will go over acrylic enamel like Dupli-Color or Rustoleum, as well as Lacquer or Urethane paints.

So here's what I got to do my painting project:
1 can of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter (for plastic pieces)
1 can Dupli-Color Self-Etching Primer (for bare metal priming)
2 can's Dupli-Color Gray Filler Primer (everything got this)
1 can Dupli-Color Primer Sealer
4 can's of Dupli-Color Acrylic Enamel High Gloss Black
4 can's of Sjpray Max Glamour High Gloss Clear Coat

All plastic pieces got dry sanded using 120 grit.
All metal pieces got dry sanded with 80 grit.

Plastic pieces got a cleaned with wax and grease remover and then sprayed with Adhesion Promoter.
Metal items got same cleaning then sprayed/coated using Self-Etching Primer.

Then all pieces/items got sprayed with two coats of Filler Primer. I sanded using 220 grit in between each coat.

After inspecting and everything looked good all pieces got a coat of Primer Sealer.

Everything was allowed to dry/set for 24 hours, then it was time to lay some color.

Going by the directions on the Dupli-Color spray can I applied the first coat of High Gloss Black. Waited 24 hours and wet sanded using 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
Then wiped everything down with wax and grease remover, tacked everything down and proceeded to apply the second coat of black. I used this same procedure/technique for a total of three coats of the High Gloss black.
This might have been a little over kill but I thought, what the hell!!
One note: the second and third coat of black got wet sanded using 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. This made each coat very smooth, with very little "orange peal".

After the last coat of black had dried for approx. 24 hours it was time for clear coat.
This product has a short life span due to the fact that it is a two part product in a can. You have to have everything ready at this point.

The clear coat has to be shaken for approx. 2 min., then you have to take the red cap off and place it onto the bottom of the can and puncture the inner canister containing the hardener. You then have to shake the can for approx. 2 more min. Once mixed the can will be good for approx. 24 hours. I found on the web site and in the instructions they send you that they have conflicting times on how long it's good for.

One can was able to do my tank, fuel door for tank, both side panels, and the tail cowl for the seat. Both inside/under side and the money side.
Keep can straight up and don't spray side ways for too long. If it starts to spit/sputter, turn it upside down and clear the spray nozzle. Just like clearing/cleaning any spray can.

Like I said the first coat/can allowed me to coat everything but I was pushing it. I allowed everything to dry for 24 hours then wet sanded using 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Cleaned everything with wax and grease remover and tacked everything down.

The second coat I had a little more clear to use because I used it all on just the top side of all pieces (not bottoms/back sides). I followed the directions on the can but used all of the can.

After the second coat dried for 24 hours I again wet sanded this time using 1000 grit wet/dry sand/paper. Cleaned everything with wax and grease remover.

At this point I applied my decals to my tank according to there instructions. This called for them to dry for a 24 hour period.

After the decals dried, I wiped everything down again with wax and grease remover and tacked every thing down. Make sure you clean the tank/decal really good due to the fact that when applying the decal you will contaminate the tank due to using water and soap to apply the decal.

Then it was time for the third coat of clear. Same procedure/technique only this time after drying I wet sanded using 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper. Every time I progressed using a higher grit wet sanding paper and it made a big difference in the appearance of each coat and the lack of "orange peal".

After 24 hours of drying I went for a fourth coat of clear. I wanted a deep gloss!!!!!

48 hours after the fourth coat of clear I wet sanded using 1500, 2000 then 3000 grit wet/dry sand paper. Wiped everything down and rubbed all pieces down using "Mothers Rubbing Compound" followed by "Original Bike Spirits Spray Cleaner and Polish".

Here are some pics of the products used and the results:

[BPellerine]

very nice black is a hard colour!bill

[martin99]

Good job!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Outstanding job.  I can't believe it's a spray can job!  Black is a very difficult, unforgiving color, too.

[dlhoulton]

Thanks for the compliments. I had a painter tell me that black was going to be the most difficult and I would never get a quality job. A voice in my head said, CHALLENGE EXCEPTED!!! With three coats of black and four coats of 2k clear it should be very durable.
My main objective was to show that a great quality paint job could be done in your garage or at home and you not have to spend hundred of dollars getting it.
Black is very unforgiving. It does show every little dent and ding that I thought I had gotten out or didn't even see.
I did have a very unexpected result happen that I can't explain. All the pieces/parts I painted have a metal flake glitter to them when out in sunlight. I contacted the company that sold me the clear coat and ask them if there product had flake in it and they said no. I figured with a name like "Glamour" it must have meant flake or something. They said it just meant high gloss. So then I contacted Dupli-Color and ask them if there product had any flake in it, they also said no. Each said it must be the others product. I even made sure to send them pictures of there perspective products along with pictures of the painted/clear coated pieces.
The flake/glitter is very even and all throughout. No splotches, void spots or swirls. Very much a mystery!!! Here is a few shots of what I'm talking about:






All pieces/parts have it, both plastic and metal. It really "pops" in the sunlight.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Unexpected bonus benefit.   

[MickB]

Well mate after reading your procedure you've given me the confidence to do mine myself.

You're results speak for themselves, well done, they look great.

You'll save me in excess of $500, the quote for just the tank let alone the side covers.

Regards

Mick

[MickB]

Well mate after reading your procedure you've given me the confidence to do mine myself.

Your results speak for themselves, well done, they look great.

You'll save me in excess of $500, the quote for just the tank let alone the side covers.

Regards

Mick

[calj737]

That is well done. A word or two about your approach though:

1. Before applying your base coats of primers, sand to 320. 120 and 80 are too rough still and any imperfections will transmit through the paint.

2. You don't need to sand above 400 between coats when applying paint. It's too smooth, and over coats won't have enough "tooth" to bond permanently.

3. In between coats, a Base Coat Tack cloth is highly recommended. I think you used something similar, not sure.

4. Apply your top coats with enough flash time between, without letting them fully cure.

5. Wetsand after clear coats starting with 1000, then 1500, then 2000/2500. Finish with buffing compound.

Use these techniques, and some careful spraying, and anyone can produce very good results (even with a rattle can).

If it were your intention, or another's, to use a pearl/flake paint, spray the parts in the orientation that they will be installed on the bike. This effects the way the glitter lays in the paint ultimately.

Any "gloss black" will have some additive to enhance the gloss. Black's are very tricky paint colors depending upon their lustre. They can blue, red or green based colors in their finished appearance. A true, oil slick black has even some iridescent properties. Better to use a true flat black, then achieve your gloss with clear coats by using high gloss clear.

But I like the results you achieved (inadvertently got better than you thought?) 

Really well done job. But these tips above will aide you on your next one!

[Joemetal861]

Impressive. I just got done doing a bunch of stuff and didn't turn out this well. I rushed it...def. have to be patient and take your time with this stuff. Next winter will be round two with your procedure!


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[MickB]

Cal

Can you clarify, my questions are between the points you made.

1. Before applying your base coats of primers, sand to 320. 120 and 80 are too rough still and any imperfections will transmit through the paint.

Do you mean sand the bare metal on the tank first?

2. You don't need to sand above 400 between coats when applying paint. It's too smooth, and over coats won't have enough "tooth" to bond permanently.

3. In between coats, a Base Coat Tack cloth is highly recommended. I think you used something similar, not sure.

What do you mean?

4. Apply your top coats with enough flash time between, without letting them fully cure.

5. Wetsand after clear coats starting with 1000, then 1500, then 2000/2500. Finish with buffing compound.

[Retro Rocket]

Mick B.....tack rag or tack cloth....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tack_cloth

[calj737]

Cal

Can you clarify, my questions are between the points you made.

1. Before applying your base coats of primers, sand to 320. 120 and 80 are too rough still and any imperfections will transmit through the paint.

Do you mean sand the bare metal on the tank first? No. I meant do the body work first, then sand only the filler. Finish with a 320 on the filler. Anything less is too rough.

2. You don't need to sand above 400 between coats when applying paint. It's too smooth, and over coats won't have enough "tooth" to bond permanently.

3. In between coats, a Base Coat Tack cloth is highly recommended. I think you used something similar, not sure.

What do you mean? A tack cloth (as Retro pointed out) is a specialized cloth pre-impregnated with a paint safe solvent. It is best to use this type of cloth between paint layers.

4. Apply your top coats with enough flash time between, without letting them fully cure.

5. Wetsand after clear coats starting with 1000, then 1500, then 2000/2500. Finish with buffing compound.

[MickB]

Cal

Thanks for the clarification

Mick

[dlhoulton]

One thing I learned about using a Tack Cloth is there is a technique. If used wrong you can mess up paint/clear coat application. I used an older one for most of the project and had no problems. When it came time to apply clear coat I wanted to use a new one (tack cloth). Got it out and applied too much pressure to cloth while wiping. Thought something was funny because my hands were very sticky. Got my hands clean and started to apply clear and it was a mess. There were large areas where the clear did not stick. Almost a disaster. I went ahead and laid down a light coat and when it dried was able to wet sand it all smooth. Got on line and learned that there is a technique to preparing the use of a tack cloth. You first need to unfold the cloth completely and let some of the impregnated chemicals dry out. Then lightly refold the cloth and when using the tack cloth just let it glide over your part. Like dusting. You don't have to rub!!! You just want to get any stray air borne particles that might have landed on it or from the cloth that had your wax and grease remover. They can leave little things behind.

[Joemetal861]

Yep I was a victim of this ha


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