Author Topic: CB750 K6 - Step Step 12 - Now into some tweaking to get it right (Read 55781 times)

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 30, 2014, 12:17:50 pm »

OK,
Before my arms gave out, I did the first pass with Jewelers Rouge on a Spiral Sewn Wheel.
It actually looks less Brilliant but just as shiny. More of a Blueish tint to it.
Tomorrow when I'm fresh and it's cooler in the garage, I'm thinking about trying a vented wheel with the Jewelers Rouge.
Also, Edward mentioned a thread by a guy named Herm from Dime City. He cleaned his fork legs between compounds with some white all purpose flour. THAT TRICK WORKS WELL!!!!! Thanks for that tip Edward!!!!!

so here is the leg after the first pass with Jewelers Rouge.

dhall57 · « **Reply #26 on:** June 30, 2014, 03:56:12 pm »

Fork legs standing tall Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #27 on:** July 02, 2014, 04:17:06 pm »

I got out today and picked up some Simichrome polish so that I can finish the fork legs.
Unfortunately didn't have time to work on them today. Wondering whether I should be hand polishing or putting the Simichrome on a wheel (which type wheel) and putting it on that way at least the first time. Any help is appreciated.
And I did look at a few other threads but wasn't real sure how they polished the final step.

Next, I think I need to get new fork springs since the S&W's have been sitting in the forks for 38 years and they are the only Part I haven't purchased yet for the forks. I did/do have S&W progressive rate springs in the forks now. But sadly, S&W is no longer in business and apparently were bought out by Progressive Suspension. I called Progressive to get the spring rate information on the Fork Springs they list for the K6 and they said that the spring rates are 35/50 or 55 (don't remember). The original S&W springs had rates of 28/48. Also, with the S&W springs I used 30 weight BelRay fork oil. For me, I thought that Suspension setup was great with that combination. Will that be too heavy an oil if I go with the Progressive Suspension springs? The last curiosity is that the Manual calls for fork springs to be 19.075 long, the Progressive springs are (according to them) 19.12 long. Wonder if that is a problem.

Any suggestions on Fork Springs and Oil would be greatly appreciated. I know this could start a minor war but I really am hoping for some guidance on this.

Thanks,
Charlie

Stev-o · « **Reply #28 on:** July 03, 2014, 03:22:31 am »

I think you will be happy with Progressive springs and ATF oil, I installed them in my K4 earlier this year. Unless you plan on racing the bike?!

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #29 on:** July 03, 2014, 05:03:40 am »

Stev-o,
No racing for me. You mentioned that you're using ATF in your forks. Seems like that would have less damping on rebound and possibly allow more "bouncing". I guess it's a trial and error thing. I appreciate the answer and will probably go with it.
Hope to finish the legs today and start cleaning up the Front hub.
Thanks,
Charlie

edwardmorris · « **Reply #30 on:** July 03, 2014, 08:02:09 am »

Ryan/73Nancy recommended White Diamond Polish and Sealer a while back, and I know that just goes on with a soft cloth as the final step. But be cautious with it, I've read that it can hurt chrome surfaces too many times, despite others claiming they didn't have that issue.

I've gotta look into this progressive spring stuff, never really paid attention because I was keeping the bike as original/stock as possible. Do you know if the rear shocks need to be changed to match the front and retain the frame geometry?

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #31 on:** July 03, 2014, 09:09:20 am »

Edward
Just about to put some Simichrome polish on the legs. Plan is to put some polish on a clean cotton rag, then use a soft flannel loose wheel on the buffer. Will post a couple of pics later today.

One thing I can tell you is that a lot of folks back in 1976 in my little area (of NJ) changed out their fork springs almost immediately. I changed my front springs to the S&W's after the first season (and 8,000 miles). From my memory of that point in time, I can remember talking with several other guys at the shop and it was almost unanimous to put in S&W fork springs and put on Koni Shocks on the rear. From memory, and some notes I still have from 1976, the rear shocks on my K6 that came on her, were sold by the shop as NEW parts. The Koni's went on before she left the shop for the first time.

So, I guess the short answer to your question is probably YES. LOL Just based on my notes (and yes I kept a little notebook which I still have and have been referring to. LOL) I would say that in my area, you could almost say that S&W's and Koni's were stock items. LOL

Also, with the original Stock Honda fork springs, I started with 5 wt BelRay fork oil. Was not happy. Changed to 10 wt pretty shortly and that was good with those springs (Which I still have sitting in the S&W box). When I changed to the S&W progressive rate springs, I changed to 20 wt BelRay fork oil and that was OK, but 2000 miles later changed it to 30 wt. The amount of fork oil used was 150 cc per leg.

Another thing for you to consider is the Clutch Springs. After about 3,500 miles I didn't like the feel of the clutch and the shop recommended that I put in the clutch springs used on the 305 (Dream). So I did. These clutch springs are still in my K6. I need to research the difference between the 2 different springs, unless someone on the forum already knows and can share the info.

Thanks,
Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #32 on:** July 06, 2014, 05:58:54 pm »

Well I finished up the Fork Legs a couple of days ago. Did a final buff with Simichrome. I don't think I can get them any better. A Before'ish and After Picture.
First picture shows one fork before doing anything and the other after some sanding.
Second Picture shows the Forks after Buffing with Simichrome and what I believe is done.
So, the order of things was
Paint Stripper to get old clear coat off
Wet Sand with 220 grit (Probably 20 hours per leg) Yeah they were that bad. LOL
Wet Sand with 400 grit (Probably 8 hours per leg)
Wet Sand with 800 grit (Probably about 3 - 4 hours per leg)
Wet Sand with 1200 grit (Probably about 3 hours per leg)
Red (Medium) compound - Sewn Spiral Wheel
Green (Stainless Steel) compound - Sewn Spiral Wheel
Jewelers Rouge - Sewn Spiral Wheel
Simichrome - Soft Loose Flannel wheel

Hope this made sense

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #33 on:** July 06, 2014, 06:18:45 pm »

OK, I've moved on to cleaning up the Front Hub. In order to do that, I needed to remove the front tire from the rim, then remove the spokes (And Yes I took multiple pictures so I know the Spoke pattern - Thank You to a couple of people for this tip), then start the cleaning.
I cleaned the outside of the hub with a scotchbrite pad on the Rotozip. Probably touched a few spots too heavily, but it is clean. LOL Then start sanding the inner ribbed section of the hub.
After not getting anywhere fast with wet sanding 220 grit, I switched to 150 grit and that at least is tolerably doing the job. I've attached a few pictures showing slightly after the starting point then with one or 2 ribbed sections done at a time. It is taking about 3 or 4 hours per rib and still not getting all the pitting out. There are still some "pinhole" type spots. (If anyone is familiar with fiberglass work, that's the kind of spot I'm talking about) Anyhow, take a look and if you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.
Thanks,
Charlie

Stev-o · « **Reply #34 on:** July 06, 2014, 06:26:51 pm »

30 hours sanding on each fork leg? Holy #$%*e!

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #35 on:** July 06, 2014, 06:31:57 pm »

Stev-o

OK, so I'm slow. LOL But then what else have I got to do. Hahahaha
The fingers can only take so much at any one time. I was averaging about 4 hours per day and then playing with my dogs and then a beer and a nap. LOL

Charlie

edwardmorris · « **Reply #36 on:** July 07, 2014, 11:05:39 am »

I left the hub grooves alone, wanted to retain some of the factory look with the casting marks. I'll buff them up a little when I get around to it, but definitely not sanding, the heavy duty factory clear managed to keep it shiny after all these years. Fork legs look good, well done. I still need to finish up with the 1200 grit on mine, but doesn't look like its going to be anytime soon.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #37 on:** July 07, 2014, 11:32:32 am »

Edward,
Fortunately I guess your Front Hub didn't take the beating mine did. LOL
As shown in the pictures of my front hub, I really didn't have much choice. Ugh.
I need to figure out how to keep the Hubs looking decent in the future. The only thing I can think of is taking the spokes off and doing a good polishing every winter, but I really don't want to do that. If you come up with a good (easy) way to keep them looking good, let me know.

Thanks for the thumbs up on the fork legs. While they aren't concours quality, they'll do.

Fortunately there aren't too many more "hard" to sand parts. LOL (Famous last words.)

With your project, the 1200 grit should be fairly easy. Been following your progress and think you're doing a Great Job.

Charlie

edwardmorris · « **Reply #38 on:** July 07, 2014, 11:45:49 am »

You could always clear coat them again, although it will yellow eventually, maybe many years down the line. Greggo went with no sheen clear, which may work well with a polished hub

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=118569.msg1525748#msg1525748

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #39 on:** July 20, 2014, 06:38:05 pm »

Well, finally made some progress on the front hub. Been doing a few other things over the last couple of weeks, so the hub had to wait a bit. Got all the pieces pretty much done with 150, then 220 and now 400 grit. Am seriously thinking about a sand/soda blaster. Also thinking about setting up a powder coating rig. I found a "commercial toaster oven" that might work out for not too much money.

Anyhow, here are a couple of pictures of the Front Hub as it sits now hand sanded out to 400 grit. (And Yes it is a major PITA to sand the grooves!)

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #40 on:** July 20, 2014, 06:55:12 pm »

I ordered a set of Buchanan SS Spokes (front and rear) to replace the old spokes, so now I've got pretty much everything I need to rebuild the front end.
Wheel Bearings
Steering stem tapered bearings
Fork Seals and boots
Master Cylinder Rebuild kit
Caliper Rebuild kit
Pads
Throttle Cables
Tires
Brake Lines (A, B and Hard bottom line)
Rechromed Fender and Stays, Headlight Ears, Gauge cases.
Hondaman's book. :-)

Before I put the front end back together, I need to finish sanding and polishing the hub (and attached parts). I think I want to paint the inside of the fender and stays with a rubberized coating. Also was thinking about trying to powder coat the hub (in clear), but don't know yet. May defer that to this winter even though it would mean redoing the lacing, truing and hub cleaning

??

Any opinions would be appreciated.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #41 on:** July 27, 2014, 12:49:17 pm »

Finally finished cleaning, polishing and buffing the Front Hub. Pretty pleased with the way it turned out in spite of 1 bounce off the blanket and onto the floor. LOL :? Thinking about clear coating the hub using the Eastwood clear coat. Have to do some reading on the prep for using it. Anyhow, here are a couple of pictures of the finished front hub.

Oh, Stev-o,
This only took about another 30 hours worth of sanding. LOL

Stev-o · « **Reply #42 on:** July 27, 2014, 01:59:45 pm »

Oh, only 30? Ha! You must be a very patient man, I would be bored to death after 15 min and be ready to move on to something else.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #43 on:** July 27, 2014, 02:27:00 pm »

Stev-o,
It's kind of like Therapy.

I don't have to think and can just get into a zone.
So, what do you think?

? Are they Good enough???
Charlie

Next step is to do a little light cleanup of the Front Rim. It's got a little hazy coating on it that needs to come off. Then I can put the New Bearings in the hub and lace the wheel. Then clean up the triple trees and replace the steering head bearings (with tapered bearings). Then I need to replace the fork seals and dust boots. Hopefully this won't take as long as it did to clean everything so far. LOL

edwardmorris · « **Reply #44 on:** July 27, 2014, 03:02:23 pm »

That hub looks amazing, very motivating, maybe I'll finally finish mine this week.

Quote from: Stev-o on July 27, 2014, 01:59:45 pm

Oh, only 30? Ha! You must be a very patient man, I would be bored to death after 15 min and be ready to move on to something else.

I have that same issue, that's why its been months and I still don't have a single piece that is ready for buffing. They're all sanded some grit or the other but nothing is complete. Time to speed things up, season's more than half way through up here.

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #45 on:** July 27, 2014, 03:15:14 pm »

Edward,
Just put on some tunes, grab a cold one and sit out at the picnic table.

Or as someone else did, put on a ball game, grab a cold one and.........
Notice the common thread here. LOL

Your Project is doing really nice. Just don't try doing everything at once. Take it from one who in his younger days tried.......and it didn't work then. LOL

If you finish just one piece at a time, you do get inspiration, cause you can look at that piece and say this one is going to look that good.

Charlie

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #46 on:** July 27, 2014, 03:18:21 pm »

Was just looking at the Front Rim I bought. A 19 inch DID rim, supposedly NOS.
It looks like it has some kind of coating on it. Did Honda clear coat their Rims?
Wondering if I got hosed on this rim. Anybody have any idea?

Charlie

Stev-o · « **Reply #47 on:** July 27, 2014, 03:19:48 pm »

They look fantastic. I bet you can do all the other tasks in less than 15 hours...

oldhatt45 · « **Reply #48 on:** July 27, 2014, 03:42:03 pm »

Stev-o,
You're probably very close to Right on the 15 hours. As someone once Great said.
"From your lips to Gods ears."

Thanks for the Good review. I know they're not perfect, but they are Good enough. LOL

Any clue on the coating in the rim?

Charlie

Stev-o · « **Reply #49 on:** July 27, 2014, 03:47:05 pm »

Sorry, no idea about the rim. They were not clear coated from the factory as far as I know.
Got a pic?

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Author Topic: CB750 K6 - Step Step 12 - Now into some tweaking to get it right (Read 55781 times)