Topic: 550 Brakes - Are They Very Good?

[tomk1960]

My son and I finished putting the front end of his '77 550 back together today.  That included new fork seals, rebuilt caliper, new piston and pads, and rebuilt master cylinder.  Bleeding went without a hitch and the brakes work, but they aren't very firm.  Is this typical of these single piston, single caliper brake systems?  I'm used to having a pair of dual piston calipers up front, so maybe I'm spoiled.  And the lever isn't super firm either.  I taped the brake lever on a hard squeeze when we were finishing up, so hopefully that will push any air left in the lines up to the master cylinder.

Coments?  Should I expect better than so-so brakes on this bike?  Thanks!

[Farley121]

They are notorious for mushy brake feel.  Braided lines make a huge difference.  I ended up replacing only the top line from the master cylinder to the brake light switch with braided, and it made a big difference.

[Thamuz]

I had to go all stainless.  It was spongy even with one.  It is a lot better now.  There is a bit of sponge from old rubber hoaes expanding a bit under pressure. Not a lot, but just a tiny bit.

Go stainless.  I got mine from Slingshot cycles, right size n all.

[billingstitan]

After a spell away from my 550, I'm always caught a little off-guard w the soft front brake.

Rarely touch the back brake on my sport bike, but definitely use both on my CB550. Thinking about adding a parachute on the rear fender for good measure.

That said, it should definitely pull to firm - if it's getting all the way back to the grip then you need to bleed it again, or something else is off.

[dave500]

if the hoses are the 40 year old ones replace them,the standard hoses work fine,grab an old hose as you pump the lever,does it swell or pulse much?

[flatlander]

like dave said, new hoses should firm things up. even then, if you're used to modern brakes it won't be the same. welcome to the 70s 

you could install a second disc and caliper. it won't exactly double the braking power but gives you some more.

[dave500]

any late model bikes ive ridden have too good brakes!

[flatlander]

yeah it can really take some getting used to being that gentle - i remember that 

[tomk1960]

like dave said, new hoses should firm things up. even then, if you're used to modern brakes it won't be the same. welcome to the 70s 

you could install a second disc and caliper. it won't exactly double the braking power but gives you some more.

I have dual discs on my '74 750, so I know how good the brakes can be on these old bikes.  Based on what I'm hearing here, the brakes on the 550 aren't too far off from normal.  I'll switch to braided lines as soon as Shawn (Slingshot) is back from vacation.  In the meantime, I'll bleed them again to see if it improves them at all.

Thanks for all the inputs.

[Oldtech]

Braided lines and a modern master cylinder will make all the difference. You can get a Nissin with a 14mm bore for a single disc system for a reasonable price. I run one with a 16mm bore for a dual disc on my CBX. Made a huge difference.

[wardenerd]

I got the stainless brake lines one of the guys on here sells and that firmed up the feel even with just a rebuilt master cylinder.  My problem was the lack of brakes when the disc got wet.  I had my disc cross drilled and it made all the difference.

[Muckinfuss]

What fluid did you use

[Stev-o]

My 550 has very good stock brakes.

[Mo]

My 550 has very good stock brakes.

My 500 is pretty good too! I'm a moderate rider, and find I rarely need the front brake.

[tomk1960]

What fluid did you use

DOT3 as specified.

The lines will definitely be upgraded soon and hopefully that will firm up the lever.  (along with a re-bleed)  The brakes will be fine for non-aggressive riding, but I would never want brakes like these on my Interceptor or 1100F.

[Deltarider]

any late model bikes ive ridden have too good brakes!

I can second that. As an experienced motorpolice instructor once said to me: with these old Honda brakes you can brake like a moron but you will not be in danger. He learned me the right brake method and how to control my bike under any circumstance.

What do you use if not the front brake, your feet? It's more than 60% of stopping power! Using your rear brake as a primary is not only stupid, it's dangerous.

I agree, the rear brake is a secundary brake: 70% front 30% rear, unless you go down a steep little mountain path with rubble. Then you won't touch the front brake lever.
These old Honda brakes are still (even today) well within what the legislator demands. It's up to your style of riding. But a warning: in rain they're hopeless the first revolutions.

[dave500]

My 550 has very good stock brakes.

My 500 is pretty good too! I'm a moderate rider, and find I rarely need the front brake.

learn to use the front brake moderate rider or not!your not riding properly otherwise.

[CoachDoc]

+1 for the Slingshot SS braided hoses. They will eliminate SOME of the mush. You mentioned above rebuild of the master cylinder. Did you bleed it separately? If not give that a try before you do your final caliper bleed. My experience is that a bit a of air can hide in the master and not be bled from the caliper.

[TwoTired]

My CB550 brakes are good.
I do have to use my whole hand to screech the front tire, though.  I like it that way.  Very little risk of slide out in the corners.
I did replace my old lines with SS, and have bled the system for a rock hard lever.


I was taught and have always used both front and rear brakes simultaneously.  Why ignore 10 to 30 percent of your stopping power?  I've found it a valuable technique to employ.

[Bailgang]

My son and I finished putting the front end of his '77 550 back together today.  That included new fork seals, rebuilt caliper, new piston and pads, and rebuilt master cylinder.  Bleeding went without a hitch and the brakes work, but they aren't very firm.  Is this typical of these single piston, single caliper brake systems?  I'm used to having a pair of dual piston calipers up front, so maybe I'm spoiled.  And the lever isn't super firm either.  I taped the brake lever on a hard squeeze when we were finishing up, so hopefully that will push any air left in the lines up to the master cylinder.

Coments?  Should I expect better than so-so brakes on this bike?  Thanks!

New brake lines would help, SS lines even better. My guess is that as long as your son rides that 550 and ONLY the 550 he will learn what to expect in regards to braking and all should be fine, it's when you ride one bike then hop on another say a more modern bike and that's when problems may arise. One time my youngest son and I swapped bikes for a ride, I had to completely re-accustom myself to the brakes on his cbr600 otherwise I would've went over the bars if I grabbed the brakes on it the same as I did on my 550. On the other hand my kid almost blew right through an intersection while on the 550 because the brakes he had gotten used to on his cbr just weren't there on the 550.

[tomk1960]

You mentioned above rebuild of the master cylinder. Did you bleed it separately? If not give that a try before you do your final caliper bleed. My experience is that a bit a of air can hide in the master and not be bled from the caliper.

Before I connected the brake line to the master cylinder, I primed the master.  I do it by pumping the lever with a finger over the banjo hole, release, pump some more, release, and eventually a healthy gush of fluid comes out and then I connect the line.  Is there more to it than that?  I know if the MC is airbound, bleeding is next to impossible.

[CoachDoc]

You mentioned above rebuild of the master cylinder. Did you bleed it separately? If not give that a try before you do your final caliper bleed. My experience is that a bit a of air can hide in the master and not be bled from the caliper.

Before I connected the brake line to the master cylinder, I primed the master.  I do it by pumping the lever with a finger over the banjo hole, release, pump some more, release, and eventually a healthy gush of fluid comes out and then I connect the line.  Is there more to it than that?  I know if the MC is airbound, bleeding is next to impossible.

Sounds like you got it right for bleeding the MC. I also like the tying of the lever to the handle bar overnight, which got rid of the last bit of softness after my rebuild of the MC, caliper, etc. MY lever if very firm now, and the only thing I did that you haven't done yet is new SS braided hoses. That may get you where you want to go. Good luck.

[tomk1960]

You mentioned above rebuild of the master cylinder. Did you bleed it separately? If not give that a try before you do your final caliper bleed. My experience is that a bit a of air can hide in the master and not be bled from the caliper.

Before I connected the brake line to the master cylinder, I primed the master.  I do it by pumping the lever with a finger over the banjo hole, release, pump some more, release, and eventually a healthy gush of fluid comes out and then I connect the line.  Is there more to it than that?  I know if the MC is airbound, bleeding is next to impossible.

Sounds like you got it right for bleeding the MC. I also like the tying of the lever to the handle bar overnight, which got rid of the last bit of softness after my rebuild of the MC, caliper, etc. MY lever if very firm now, and the only thing I did that you haven't done yet is new SS braided hoses. That may get you where you want to go. Good luck.

Shawn at Slingshot sells his braided lines for a very good price, so I'll order some when he gets back from vacation. Tying the lever overnight might have helped a little, but I wouldn't call the lever "hard" by any stretch.

For anyone interested in how I prime master cylinders, here's my YouTube how-to video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4wlSQDsEHw

[CoachDoc]

Nice video, Tom. You should shortly join the ranks of the experts and gurus on this site as you get more into these older SOHC's.