Author Topic: cb350 four cylinders 1(most left) and 4(most right) not firing (Read 10282 times)

2strokeTrush · « **Reply #75 on:** October 14, 2014, 06:43:51 PM »

Its your coils, replace them

Dos · « **Reply #76 on:** October 14, 2014, 06:51:19 PM »

Will do. Can someone explain to me this though its been boggling me... Problem was 1 and 4 aren't firing.. Spark plugs fire at 1 and 4 but not 2 and 3 and 2 and 3 were firing

TwoTired · « **Reply #77 on:** October 14, 2014, 07:06:10 PM »

You have not done the proper troubleshooting procedure, and haven't proven any of your coils are defective. Strong change you'll replace them and have the exact same problem. That's the risk of part substitution as a method of repair.

When did you install a CDI box? The stock bike never had one.

Did you ever test for voltage across the points both open a closed?

I'm beginning to wonder if flail is a way of life for you.

The ignition system is so very simple on this bike. Yet you refuse to isolate the individual components for verification. Slow down take it step by step, and you should get the proper results. Or, you could replace everything on the hope that fixes the problem. ...which may yet be a simple adjustment or connection issue you are overlooking.

Dos · « **Reply #78 on:** October 14, 2014, 08:19:20 PM »

I won't get the new coils yet I don't have the box I have spark from both points but the right one is weak and orange

Dos · « **Reply #79 on:** October 14, 2014, 08:20:15 PM »

I will test voltage tomorrow morning

Dos · « **Reply #80 on:** October 14, 2014, 08:40:05 PM »

You are absolutely right.

What else should I check besides the point's voltage open and closed?

Could this possibly have anything to do with the alternator/stator?

trueblue · « **Reply #81 on:** October 15, 2014, 02:18:28 AM »

FYI, in an ideal world points shouldn't spark, in reality they will just a tiny bit. Any spark should be barely visible. It is possible for a condenser to short out and kill your spark.

DOS, the best piece of advice I can give you is slow down, do EXACTLY what TT says no more no less, he will help you to get it going. I could walk you through it myself but I don't have the patience. I would have given up long ago.

Dos · « **Reply #82 on:** October 15, 2014, 09:39:03 AM »

When the bike was running cylinders 1 and 4 were not running .. How ever there sparks are when I do the spark plug test. When the bike was running only cylinders 3 and 4 would be running. But when I do the spark test the coil that has the 2 chords with the spark plugs in them that would go to 3 and 4 doesn't spark. and I could tell by touching the exhaust pipes coming from 1 and 4 that they weren't running

But you guys are right I'm going to rest the votlage across the points

Dos · « **Reply #83 on:** October 15, 2014, 09:45:40 AM »

I get a reading of 10.50 volts when the points are open.

Dos · « **Reply #84 on:** October 15, 2014, 10:27:20 AM »

I also want to say thank you for everyone that's helped me out thus far and dealing with my $#!t

I looked out the points again and I can see a healthy spark when I crank down with the bike on. Right one isn't showing.. There's a spark advancer behind the plate could that have anything to do with it? I'm just shooting blanks here

TwoTired · « **Reply #85 on:** October 15, 2014, 10:33:56 AM »

I shouldn't have to, but I will spell it out, as you only reported 25% of what data is needed.

You have to report 4 voltage readings across the point contacts when the key switch and kill switch are both enabled (in run mode), and with a fully charged battery.

1.4 points open _______
1.4 points closed _______
2.3 points open______
2.3 points closed_____

This is to verify the points are able to function in the circuit.

The next step is to verify that the points are electrically connected to the coils at the blue and/or yellow terminal.

The points control current flow through the coils, provided it's primary winding is intact and connected. I believe you previously reported ~ 4.7 ohms measured on each coil's primary when disconnected from the bike. Please verify this data point.

Sparks at the points are NOT wanted, though they might give an indication to a lesser problem to be addressed after we know some of the fundamentals are in place and reliable for your specific bike.

Have you checked both the gap when fully open and the static timing of the points? What procedure did you use?

imo, you have wasted days, being in a hurry. Have you other distractions stealing your time and focus?

Dos · « **Reply #86 on:** October 15, 2014, 01:57:49 PM »

1.4 I'm getting 10.40 volts. Open
1.4 I'm getting nothing. Closed
2.3 I'm getting 9.80 volts. Open with orangey spark
2.3 I'm getting nothing closed.

I just touched connectors from the condensors by having the red touching the connector point and the black on the exhaust(to ground..I'm learning!) And I get nothing but when I do it on the other side I get Around 8 volts... My battery is some what low but not that bad so everything is down 3 volts or so

Dos · « **Reply #87 on:** October 15, 2014, 01:59:44 PM »

The picture I sent is 2.3 but its 1.4 that shows nothing with the condensers when i tested with one prong grounded and the other connected to the connector.

KiefRichards · « **Reply #88 on:** October 15, 2014, 02:10:35 PM »

That gap looks pretty big in the last pic

Dos · « **Reply #89 on:** October 15, 2014, 02:19:20 PM »

Yeah I just adjusted it the one with no voltage has blue and blue wire its the 1.4 side which makes sense because the bike wouldnt run on 1 and 4. One wire comes from condenser the other comes from a wire that goes all the way to where all the circuit are.

Dos · « **Reply #90 on:** October 15, 2014, 02:48:16 PM »

I swapped out the condenser for 1.4 and it still reads nothing I am concluding that it's the blue wire that goes into the electrical box. Idk what to do next though because I try to trace the blue wire to the box and idk where it connects to

Dos · « **Reply #91 on:** October 15, 2014, 03:17:19 PM »

What I'm getting is that there is no power there with 1.4

Dos · « **Reply #92 on:** October 15, 2014, 03:36:21 PM »

Here is the overview.

Spark test:
1 and 4 spark
2 and 3 no spark

When the bike is running:
Cylinders 1 and 4 are not running
Cylinders 2 and 3 are running

Connection point at 1.4 by the points shows nothing
Connection point at 3.4 shows about 10 volts

I have a feeling the guy before me may have switched around some cords

Dos · « **Reply #93 on:** October 15, 2014, 03:45:29 PM »

Sorry meant to say 2.3 I've been using my phone for this and the numbers are squished next to each other..

Part of the reason I feel 2 and 3 failed spark test is because my gap was to big

Dos · « **Reply #94 on:** October 15, 2014, 03:50:37 PM »

I'm taking the test right at the blblue prong and also the metal strip to the point

Dos · « **Reply #95 on:** October 15, 2014, 04:14:44 PM »

Sorry I'm silly. The ppoint was closed on that side when I was testing. I opened it and it reads the same as the right.. Thought I was going somewhere haha

Dos · « **Reply #96 on:** October 15, 2014, 04:40:26 PM »

Correct

Dos · « **Reply #97 on:** October 16, 2014, 01:00:29 PM »

For the right coil going to cylinders 1 and 4 I have 10.43 ohms as a resistance

Dos · « **Reply #98 on:** October 16, 2014, 01:03:37 PM »

For the left coil going to 2 and 3 I have a resistance of 11.03

Dos · « **Reply #99 on:** October 16, 2014, 01:15:20 PM »

I got her up and running and I'm looking at the points and 1.4 is really sparking I mean I see a really nice white blue spark.. I look at 2.3 and it barely does and when it does its orangey and crapy. I was revving the bike and by the exhause connections it was smokey a little bit

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Author Topic: cb350 four cylinders 1(most left) and 4(most right) not firing (Read 10282 times)

KiefRichards