Author Topic: Painting the master cylinder (Read 15121 times)

raj4994 · « **on:** November 26, 2014, 09:59:22 AM »

What can spray paint can I use to paint the master cylinder so that the brake fluid wont eat the paint away?

Bodi · « **Reply #1 on:** November 26, 2014, 01:31:34 PM »

Nothing except epoxy has any hope of being brake fluid resistant, there are epoxy spray paints available - I haven't tested any for brake fluid effects. Powder coating is generally resistant.

BobbyR · « **Reply #2 on:** November 26, 2014, 02:02:03 PM »

I went the epoxy route. Save your time it eats that too.

chewbacca5000 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 26, 2014, 02:14:16 PM »

I think it eats just about everything. I might try doing some powder and see how that goes.

martin99 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 26, 2014, 02:41:36 PM »

Quote from: chewbacca5000 on November 26, 2014, 02:14:16 PM

I think it eats just about everything. I might try doing some powder and see how that goes.

I had PC on my calipers. First time I had to bleed the brakes the fluid streaked down and the finish was ruined. Ended up sanding them down and painting with rattle cans. I think the only way to finish the master cyl or calipers that gives you piece of mind against fluid spills is to sand back to bare metal and polish. Other than that you need to make sure everything is protected with rags and towels before you take the cap off or crack open a bleed nipple.

bjbuchanan · « **Reply #5 on:** November 26, 2014, 02:47:10 PM »

I use rustoleum appliance paint and am careful about brake fluid. It will bubble but only a little if you wipe it up, if at all

Powderman · « **Reply #6 on:** November 26, 2014, 04:01:55 PM »

Powder coating is your best option. If fully cured it is not effected by brake fluid.

BobbyR · « **Reply #7 on:** November 26, 2014, 04:39:58 PM »

Quote from: bjbuchanan on November 26, 2014, 02:47:10 PM

I use rustoleum appliance paint and am careful about brake fluid. It will bubble but only a little if you wipe it up, if at all

I will give that a shot!

chewbacca5000 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 26, 2014, 04:59:24 PM »

I have water and a rag on hand to help clean up spills.

bjbuchanan · « **Reply #9 on:** November 26, 2014, 06:28:06 PM »

Quote from: BobbyR on November 26, 2014, 04:39:58 PM

Quote from: bjbuchanan on November 26, 2014, 02:47:10 PM
I use rustoleum appliance paint and am careful about brake fluid. It will bubble but only a little if you wipe it up, if at all
I will give that a shot!

Clean the part well, spray two lighter coats to full coverage and the leave it alone for a day or more. If you let it sit at least one day it cures up rly nice and holds a correct shine

750cafe · « **Reply #10 on:** November 26, 2014, 07:55:41 PM »

And why would none of you use the VHT Hi-Temperature Caliper Paint? After it has been baked for the required hour or so at 200 degrees in an oven,
it is fuel and brake fluid proof. I have been using it for years on more than calipers and master cylinders too. Including engines.

Eric

bjbuchanan · « **Reply #11 on:** November 26, 2014, 08:32:59 PM »

Quote from: 750cafe on November 26, 2014, 07:55:41 PM

And why would none of you use the VHT Hi-Temperature Caliper Paint? After it has been baked for the required hour or so at 200 degrees in an oven,
it is fuel and brake fluid proof. I have been using it for years on more than calipers and master cylinders too. Including engines.

Eric

If I had access to an oven I would just pc my stuff. Small is small but still need an oven, whether it be monster toaster oven or a real oven. We don't have equal access

mchalk9012 · « **Reply #12 on:** November 26, 2014, 08:59:02 PM »

Strip the cylinder and have it hard anodized in black. This has worked well for me in the past and will last longer than the original anodized finish and look "Factory" as well. There are a variety of ways to strip the old anodizing, just Google "re-anodizing" and pick one. You will need to find a shop that will do this for you. Another alternative if painting or powder coating is to run synthetic DOT 5 racing brake fluid such as Royal purple if you can find it. It's less corrosive and not as hygroscopic as well. It's best to test whatever finish you choose on a scrap piece of aluminum before committing to the finish on the Cylinder. Don't forget to use an etching aluminum primer if painting. If you don't, the paint will flake off regardless of it's exposure to brake fluid. If you choose epoxy, try baking it before testing it. Some people claim to have had good luck with ceramic coating but I haven't tried it as it is very expensive compared to re-anodizing.

750cafe · « **Reply #13 on:** November 26, 2014, 10:35:08 PM »

One very recent example from less than a few weeks ago...

Before.

After.

Eric

NobleHops · « **Reply #14 on:** November 27, 2014, 05:36:12 AM »

Quote from: 750cafe on November 26, 2014, 10:35:08 PM

One very recent example from less than a few weeks ago...

Before.

After.

Eric

What Eric said. I've used the VHT and it is excellent. Looks a lot better then powder coating to me, fast, cheap, DIY, all that. Never had it bubble or flake, and soda blasting is plenty of prep to lightly etch the surface so it sticks well, but not strictly needed.

N.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #15 on:** November 27, 2014, 05:45:02 AM »

Quote from: NobleHops on November 27, 2014, 05:36:12 AM

What Eric said. I've used the VHT and it is excellent. Looks a lot better then powder coating to me, fast, cheap, DIY, all that. Never had it bubble or flake, and soda blasting is plenty of prep to lightly etch the surface so it sticks well, but not strictly needed.

N.

Noble,
Are you saying that, once you soda blast the aluminum, you don't use a self-etching primer afterwards? Just asking because we're going to back home this weekend and will begin soda blasting the engine cases and cylinders, with the intent of painting them with VHT engine spray. I've been worried that the self-etching primer we have isn't rated for the high temp like the paint is and am curious if this means that we can just soda blast, paint with VHT and then bake in the oven.

(Wife will be gone to Bali for 15 days so we have plenty of time to get rid of the smell.

)

NobleHops · « **Reply #16 on:** November 27, 2014, 06:10:48 AM »

Quote from: Restoration Fan on November 27, 2014, 05:45:02 AM

Quote from: NobleHops on November 27, 2014, 05:36:12 AM

What Eric said. I've used the VHT and it is excellent. Looks a lot better then powder coating to me, fast, cheap, DIY, all that. Never had it bubble or flake, and soda blasting is plenty of prep to lightly etch the surface so it sticks well, but not strictly needed.

N.

Noble,
Are you saying that, once you soda blast the aluminum, you don't use a self-etching primer afterwards? Just asking because we're going to back home this weekend and will begin soda blasting the engine cases and cylinders, with the intent of painting them with VHT engine spray. I've been worried that the self-etching primer we have isn't rated for the high temp like the paint is and am curious if this means that we can just soda blast, paint with VHT and then bake in the oven.

(Wife will be gone to Bali for 15 days so we have plenty of time to get rid of the smell. )

Ron,

I did this engine with no primer, using the VHT high temp paint. Following the instructions with regard to cure time, and then carted it off to my powdercoater who baked it in his oven. That was...6 years ago? There are a very few tiny spots where the paint has flaked, but it still looks excellent, like new.

I did this engine last year. Also soda blasted it, then used the VHT self etching primer, then painted it. The primer had a considerable tooth to it, and I foolishly did not sand it, and painted it. The resulting finish was much rougher than I wanted, so I wetstanded it with 1200, and then topcoated it. The finish has not been quite as durable, is not quite as consistent. It still loks excellent, they are the kind of 'flaws' that only I see, but I could point them out to you.

More...

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #17 on:** November 27, 2014, 06:25:55 AM »

Noble,
Thank you for that explanation and the photos! You do nice work.

Sorry for the threadjack.

NobleHops · « **Reply #18 on:** November 27, 2014, 06:31:55 AM »

These calipers I did as described - disassembled and cleaned with degreasers, then soda blasted, then masked, painted, cured, and baked, then rebuilt. That was...4 years ago? They still look perfect, have been bled and stray drops of brake fluid have landed on them - no problem.

These were painted with the specific VHT Brake Caliper paint that Eric refers to.

I went too heavy on at least one coat, accounting for a bit of the orange peel you see. If you go lighter and with more coats, you can avoid that, but in fact some of the Honda calipers look like this finish stock.

Before:

Stripped, cleaned, and soda blasted:

Masked and hung to paint:

Baking:

Painted, dried, pulling the tape:

Done:

NobleHops · « **Reply #19 on:** November 27, 2014, 09:44:40 AM »

Quote from: Restoration Fan on November 27, 2014, 06:25:55 AM

Noble,
Thank you for that explanation and the photos! You do nice work.

Sorry for the threadjack.

Thanks Ron!

750cafe · « **Reply #20 on:** November 27, 2014, 02:40:43 PM »

Engine is VHT Cast Aluminum Hi-Temp Caliper Paint and the frame is Appliance epoxy paint.

Eric

Muckinfuss · « **Reply #21 on:** November 29, 2014, 12:21:10 PM »

looks like an EVO FL in the background.

750cafe · « **Reply #22 on:** November 29, 2014, 01:22:58 PM »

'65 Pan Head. The H-D was absolutely WORTHLESS when it came to helping me with the build.

Not one person there knew ANYTHING about a bike older than '88!

Eric

Muckinfuss · « **Reply #23 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:56:53 AM »

Hmmm.....just send it to me, I'll take care of it. I promise. I thought it was an EVO because of the oil tank and FLH shocks.

750cafe · « **Reply #24 on:** November 30, 2014, 09:54:40 AM »

Sorry, it was a '63 Pan. The POS owner that dropped off the baskets of parts for me to fix, was true to the stereotypical H-D owner and a complete POS!!!!
After I fixed every single F-up that both he and the previous "builder" had screwed up and increased the intake valve sizes, P & P the cylinder heads, etc.,
the bastard screwed me out of over a thousand in labor!!!! I will never take on a project from one of these neanderthals ever again!!!!

Let them continue to use pliers and baseball bats to assemble these rolling piles!

Every part on this POS was either seized, stripped, burned/melted or missing critical parts! 1407cc's of polished turd!

Eric

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Author Topic: Painting the master cylinder (Read 15121 times)