Topic: Media Blasting media.. Which one?

[Cleric40]

Hi All,

I am looking to blast a variety of parts off my CB500 and I am looking to get some advice on which media is recommended. I am planning to blast items to prep for paint including,brake caliper, misc brackets, fork lowers, engine components (head, head cover, jugs, oil filter cover), swingarm. I have access to a standard sand blast cabinet and also considering getting a cheapy HF gun to use with my compressor.

My question is that obviously the materials of these parts are different so which materials are safe for potentially all?  Again I am looking to prep these parts for paint so I am also looking for which grit would be best and not damage the parts.

Any feedback or recommendations from you experts would be great 

Thanks in advance.

Cleric

[MCRider]

I recommend a plastic bead blasting media. Esp for engine parts, you will have to clean them like you never cleaned before. Sand or other than plastic bead will wreck the moving parts, bearings, etc. Even the tiniest bit, which you will have left over even when you have cleaned like never before.  (first hand knowledge)

Even with the plastic, you have to clean and clean and clean. But the plastic that is left over (there will be some) shouldn't be (as) harmful to the engine.

The exterior non engine parts don't matter so much.

[calj737]

I use fine grit glass bead. It's true, you definitely need to clean the media from the parts afterwards, buts its true of any media. Fine glass leaves a satin lustre, doesn't eat so much material, and strips grime, oxidation, and paint immediately.

[Retro Rocket]

Wet blasting...

[calj737]

Wet blasting...

That is the cat's pajamas, unfortunately, it can't be done at home in a DIY fashion.

[Cleric40]

Awesome advice thanks everyone!

I used a friends blaster this weekend on some exterior parts, (swing arm, misc brackets and bolts) and the blaster was already setup to use Quickcrete Medium sand. It worked great but understand the cleanup warning and with exterior parts its not that difficult.

That being said I worry what a PITA some of the engine parts (head, jugs) would be to clean up after blasting with all the fins, holes etc

What other methods of cleaning/degreasing have you used to get engine parts ready for paint?? Degrease soak?

[calj737]

Pressure washer at the local car wash, dishwasher, compressed air are all viable steps in post-blasting cleanup.

In lieu of sand blasting, soda blasting delivers good results with less damage to the material. You still need to flush and rinse the parts to clear the media. Any purposed degreaser will clean with sufficient elbow grease from you. Purple Power, Simple Green, etc... Nylon brushes and some beer, and have at it.

Rinsing the exteriors of the engine parts is less difficult that clearing the oil passages. This is where you must be 100% certain. Threads too must be cleaned out prior to installing bolts or studs.

[MCRider]

Pressure washer at the local car wash, dishwasher, compressed air are all viable steps in post-blasting cleanup.

In lieu of sand blasting, soda blasting delivers good results with less damage to the material. You still need to flush and rinse the parts to clear the media. Any purposed degreaser will clean with sufficient elbow grease from you. Purple Power, Simple Green, etc... Nylon brushes and some beer, and have at it.

Rinsing the exteriors of the engine parts is less difficult that clearing the oil passages. This is where you must be 100% certain. Threads too must be cleaned out prior to installing bolts or studs.

Right. You have to use a test tube type brush on all the holes, and clean and rinse and probably chase all the threaded holes, unless you put bolts in them first. And be sure to lay off blasting the areas where the insert bearings lay.

http://virtualindian.org/2techclean.htm

There is little in the lit about blasting engines. Sand blasting or glass bead blasting can leave a destructor in your engine.

AS a soda blaster owner, mine will not strip engine paint. Its good for carbon on pistons, clear coat on some alum, overall baked on, time tested grunge.

[Cleric40]

Thanks for the link and all the info.

Seems like almost more work than its worth, and not sure i could sleep at night if a small remnant was left behind      The head and jugs really aren't too bad, I've seen much worse but I thought that since I could use my friends blaster it may be worth doing.
I'm thinking a long soak in a degreaser bath, some brushes, a rinse and then paint.

If I don't go the blasting route, what methods do you guys recommend for cleaning out the exhaust,intake ports, cylinder domes? Those seem caked with carbon etc and usually even degreaser has a tough time with those. Also those pesky gaskets, I thought putty knife but didn't want to gouge head..

[calj737]

For the ports on the head, if you have a Dremel type tool, use a ScotchBrite pad. The green ones work pretty well to scour off the grunge without removing aluminum. Any "polishing" that occurs in those areas is OK too, as its a bit of a porting.

Combustion domes are different. You must be very careful not to abuse the valve seat area. You can use the ScotchBrite pads but be sure the valves are in place first. Just use care around the valve seat regardless. Soda blasting also works well in that area.

[Cleric40]

Is it safe to soak the jugs in simple green with cylinders still pressed in? I am just worried about them rusting... Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[calj737]

Do you mean soak the cylinders with the pistons still installed or the cylinders with the sleeves still pressed in? It's not practical to remove the sleeves and if you do soak them, a rinse with Acetone and wipe will remove flash rust. A light wipe with oil afterwards inside the sleeves is a great final step.

Go forward and degrease!

[Cleric40]

Ok thanks! Yeah sorry I wasn't clear. I have the bottom cylinder off the motor. I was worried about the sleeves rusting.

I plan to do a light hone afterwards so combined with acetone wipe I think I should be good.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[callmejarob]

I bought the harbor freight pressurized soda blaster and it worked GREAT on everything!  Stripped the original engine paint right off.

[Cleric40]

Hi, callmejarob

Do you have a link to the blaster you are referring to?

 I checked HF website and they don't have many soda blasting options.

Thanks!

[MCRider]

Hi, callmejarob

Do you have a link to the blaster you are referring to?

 I checked HF website and they don't have many soda blasting options.

Thanks!

Mine was a harbor freight unit as well, but it wasn't that strong. Maybe I need more pressure? Anyway, soda is definitely the way to go. Water cleanup, no damage to engine parts.

[iron_worker]

I wouldn't blast any of the aluminum parts with sand. It pretty aggressive and can leave a rough finish. For steel parts such as swing arm, frame, brackets, etc the sand is a great choice.

All bearing surfaces, head gasket surfaces (unless you plan to have them machined after), and sealing surfaces should be protected from abrasive media.

Soaking is simple green is fine. If the part is totally submerged it shouldn't rust. Just be sure to dry it off when it comes out and maybe apply some light oil or WD40 to the sleeves to prevent flash rust.

IW

[Restoration Fan]

Mine was a harbor freight unit as well, but it wasn't that strong. Maybe I need more pressure? Anyway, soda is definitely the way to go. Water cleanup, no damage to engine parts.

I borrowed Mike's soda blaster and it worked really well.  The key (according to what Bill Benton told me) is the air compressor behind it.

One BIG word of caution though:  personally, I would recommend that you give it a vinegar bath instead of just a water bath.  I gave mine a mixture of 50/50 water to Simple Green and scrubbed it after the soda blasting.  I followed that up with denatured alcohol.  However, when we first started trying to put the cases back together, there was one bolt hole that was completely blocked about 25% of the way down.

So once we took the cases apart, I went and got vinegar and poured them down each of the holes...the vinegar will bubble away the baking soda and then you can just rinse the vinegar away.  For the next bike I do, I think I'll just go purchase a gallon or two of vinegar and use that to clean up the soda blasted material before I then rinse it down with water and denatured alcohol.

[timbo750]

I remember reading somewhere that the aluminum doesn't like the vinegar,  correct me if I am wrong.  However I do think the effect is slow.

[bambuhiphop]

I had all of my engine pieces soda blasted and then the exterior of the pieces mineral blasted so I could have super clean piece and etch for paint to grab onto.