Topic: GV1390's Trattoria "Racer" V2!

[GV1390]

Bump.

So after re-soda blasting it yet again, I removed the spare head/jugs I had on it, wire-wheeled it a bunch and pretty much soaked it in acetone before paint. Same paint was used, just with no primer this time and very light coats. Seems to be holding up pretty good so far.

Re-ringed and cleaned the pistons along with a hone jobs on the jugs and started with the assembly.













In the process I also installed a new cam chain along with all new gaskets.







Can't say thank you enough to Sinister92 for helping out a ton on getting it to this point.

The swing arm also recieved new bronze bushings....the frame and swingarm are getting painted this week. Next up is to make this thing a roller after a few more small odds and ends.

[GV1390]

Bump.

So after re-soda blasting it yet again, I removed the spare head/jugs I had on it, wire-wheeled it a bunch and pretty much soaked it in acetone before paint. Same paint was used, just with no primer this time and very light coats. Seems to be holding up pretty good so far.

Re-ringed and cleaned the pistons along with a hone job on the jugs and started with the assembly.













In the process I also installed a new cam chain along with all new gaskets.







Can't say thank you enough to Sinister92 for helping out a ton on getting it to this point.

The swing arm also recieved new bronze bushings....the frame and swingarm are getting painted this week. Next up is to make this thing a roller after a few more small odds and ends.

[calj737]

I sure hope you cleaned the block deck completely of the old gasket material before you assembled the engine. Your picture showed quite a bit of debris still attached...

[GV1390]

I sure hope you cleaned the block deck completely of the old gasket material before you assembled the engine. Your picture showed quite a bit of debris still attached...

Everything was cleaned before assembly, of course that includes removing ANY old gasket material, grease, grime, debris, etc....

Hope others enjoy my hackery.

[calj737]

All of my posts were observations meant to assist you in avoiding pitfalls. If you interpret them otherwise, then my apologies to you. If my posts are accurate in their solution, that you did somehow overlook a step or make a mistake, then you might be glad someone with a tad more experience is paying close attention to help you get your bike on the road, completely and safely.

But its all up to you...

As I said in my last post; "Your picture showed..." If you did clean it completely, then great! Otherwise, you are likely to get an oil leak. Wouldn't you rather know that before you install the engine into your bike and have to pull it apart wondering why oil runs all over your freshly painted block?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

All of our advice and warnings come from bad experiences from ourselves and fellow members. We just don't want you to have to learn the hard and sometime expensive way.   

That said, keep on it!

[sinister902]

after I looked over the block for gennaro, It was pretty obvious the primer didn't adhere to the aluminum. I think the mismatch in products may have caused that, or the fact that there was a 2-week wait between primer and paint.....even with a re-scuff it's just spraypaint, and I bet the silver re-wet the primer and caused it to lose adhesion. that coupled with temperatures too cold for proper cure....and bam, flaking paint. After he soda-blasted it all back down to metal, he brought it to my shop where I wire-wheeled the whole thing, scotch-brighted it, and sprayed it down with degreaser and acetone. Then finally a few light and even coats of paint and it looks great....so long as it doesn't get any chemicals on it, it should be fine.

We also took a few extra precautions in re-assembly. I had noticed two or three small nics in the gasket surface for the head and I wet-sanded them back flat with a block and 320 grit paper. We also sprayed both sides of the base and head gaskets with copper spray. All in all, the assembly ended up going fairly smoothly aside from figuring out the rear tensioner is best put in place before the jugs are all the way flush with the cases. With all the oil leaks Gennaro experienced on his last two 550's, he isn't taking any chances lol. I assume I'll be back over his shop when he wants to install the motor, last thing he needs is a scratch or gouge in all that fresh paint and powdercoat.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Sounds pretty thorough. Any reason why you did not replace the stock cylinder studs with HD studs?

[simonpol]

Bump.

So after re-soda blasting it yet again, I removed the spare head/jugs I had on it, wire-wheeled it a bunch and pretty much soaked it in acetone before paint. Same paint was used, just with no primer this time and very light coats. Seems to be holding up pretty good so far.

Re-ringed and cleaned the pistons along with a hone jobs on the jugs and started with the assembly.

That watch looks very familiar - what brand/model it is ?

[Trad]

Sounds pretty thorough. Any reason why you did not replace the stock cylinder studs with HD studs?

Don, sometimes it is more trouble than it's worth. After talking with Mike in depth on this, the majority of the time it's not needed. It add's a piece of mind when finished properly, but it can also open a can of worms without necessity.

Nice work Gennaro! What method did you use to get the cylinder over the Pistons? Also, when splitting the cam chain did you get the correct rivet/soft link from Honda? I would look at doing so man. The endless links on these factory chains aren't meant to be riveted back together.

All in all, I really dig how the engine looks. Props on getting it done so fast. Leaving me in the dust. haha

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Sounds pretty thorough. Any reason why you did not replace the stock cylinder studs with HD studs?

Don, sometimes it is more trouble than it's worth. After talking with Mike in depth on this, the majority of the time it's not needed. It add's a piece of mind when finished properly, but it can also open a can of worms without necessity.

I have left sleeping dogs lie on this before on my 750 (entire rebuild) and my 550 (top end gasket refresh).  On my 550, after springing a base gasket leak, I said screw it and used a set of APE HD studs.  Between the extra torque and new gaskets, the leak was eliminated.

That said, I've had more than a few leak issues in the shakedown of my 750 (no base gasket leak, just valve cover leaks).  I'm inclined to swap out the studs with an engine with an entire build, especially one using higher compression pistons and a higher performance spec motor. 

[Bootsey]

Looking good GV! Engine looks a treat, I'm glad its on the bench now & no longer hanging from the roof - made me cringe every time I saw it, haha.

[Trad]

Sounds pretty thorough. Any reason why you did not replace the stock cylinder studs with HD studs?

Don, sometimes it is more trouble than it's worth. After talking with Mike in depth on this, the majority of the time it's not needed. It add's a piece of mind when finished properly, but it can also open a can of worms without necessity.

I have left sleeping dogs lie on this before on my 750 (entire rebuild) and my 550 (top end gasket refresh).  On my 550, after springing a base gasket leak, I said screw it and used a set of APE HD studs.  Between the extra torque and new gaskets, the leak was eliminated.

That said, I've had more than a few leak issues in the shakedown of my 750 (no base gasket leak, just valve cover leaks).  I'm inclined to swap out the studs with an engine with an entire build, especially one using higher compression pistons and a higher performance spec motor.

HD studs better, no doubt about that. With oil leaks though, proper gaskets, o-rings, mating surfaces, and prep is the main deciding factor on if your engine will leak or not. All that done with the factory studs should not leak unless you are pushing very high compression. We're talking 12:1 and beyond.

Edit, it also depends on if your factory studs are rusted and corroded to #$%*. 

[sinister902]

Nice work Gennaro! What method did you use to get the cylinder over the Pistons? Also, when splitting the cam chain did you get the correct rivet/soft link from Honda? I would look at doing so man. The endless links on these factory chains aren't meant to be riveted back together.
 

Gennaro bought an EK chain and an EK rivet-style masterlink....we used an OTC breaker and rivet tool to remove one link from the EK chain to fish through the cases and the new rivet-style masterlink to put back together. That OTC tool works excellent.....

as far as getting the jugs on, the bottom of the bores are tapered for a reason

set the pistons to have the inner two just a touch higher than the outer two, you can squeeze the rings by hand enough to get them started into the bores, then tap the whole cylinder set down until you have to do the same with the outer two pistons....then when you have about 1/3" left to tap down, install the rear camchain tensioner and set all the way.

[GV1390]

Bump.

So after re-soda blasting it yet again, I removed the spare head/jugs I had on it, wire-wheeled it a bunch and pretty much soaked it in acetone before paint. Same paint was used, just with no primer this time and very light coats. Seems to be holding up pretty good so far.

Re-ringed and cleaned the pistons along with a hone jobs on the jugs and started with the assembly.

That watch looks very familiar - what brand/model it is ?

Ha, it's just a cheap Kenneth Cole Reaction watch.

[GV1390]

Looking good GV! Engine looks a treat, I'm glad its on the bench now & no longer hanging from the roof - made me cringe every time I saw it, haha.

Thank you! Luckily that was just my spare head I was using, but agreed!

[GV1390]

Sounds pretty thorough. Any reason why you did not replace the stock cylinder studs with HD studs?

Don, sometimes it is more trouble than it's worth. After talking with Mike in depth on this, the majority of the time it's not needed. It add's a piece of mind when finished properly, but it can also open a can of worms without necessity.

Nice work Gennaro! What method did you use to get the cylinder over the Pistons? Also, when splitting the cam chain did you get the correct rivet/soft link from Honda? I would look at doing so man. The endless links on these factory chains aren't meant to be riveted back together.

All in all, I really dig how the engine looks. Props on getting it done so fast. Leaving me in the dust. haha

Thanks Jared!

Nick beat me to it with the chain questions...

Not leaving anyone in the dust, you'll update soon and blow me out of the water as usual, haha.

Frame and swing-arm are getting paint tonight. I also ended up ordering some Hagon 18kg shocks from Dave Quinn Motorcycles. Smooth transaction and he deff knows his stuff. Hoping to make this thing a roller soon, still so much to do though.

[GV1390]

Some teasers:

[GV1390]

Little update....

The motor is finally back together for the 3rd time. It had to be torn down the last time due to forgetting to install the o-rings around the bottom of the jugs to the block. In that process, a 10mm bolt on the outside that connects the head to the jugs snapped, what a joy that was to fix. Also, when taking my powder-coated valve cover off the corner of it where there is a mounting hole broke. My spare valve cover was broken in the exact same spot. I got lucky and scored a local one from a 77-78 for $25!

I also ended up with some nice Hagon 13.2" shocks. Last night I tossed some pieces together quickly just to get an outline how it will look, obviously it has to come back apart for final install but I couldn't wait, here is what I came up with:

[Trad]

Looks #$%*ing Killer Gennaro. Keep it up!

[GV1390]

Looks #$%*ing Killer Gennaro. Keep it up!

Thanks Jared! Seems like you're the only one who enjoys this, we should just resort to email for updates, ha.

[GV1390]

Mocked the spare headlight up quickly...





Also, drilled and riveted a new vin tag replacement since the factory one was in rough shape:

[calj737]

Are you not planning on running a steering stabilizer either? I ask because I notice you altered the lower clamp for your headlight mount, and in the final picture the top side is also tapped?

The geometry changes of the gsxr front end on the stock bike does promote the chances of tank slappers, especially since you are now running single-sided brakes.

Food for thought-

[GV1390]

Are you not planning on running a steering stabilizer either? I ask because I notice you altered the lower clamp for your headlight mount, and in the final picture the top side is also tapped?

The geometry changes of the gsxr front end on the stock bike does promote the chances of tank slappers, especially since you are now running single-sided brakes.

Food for thought-

I will be running a steering stabilizer...the top size was tapped because I originally was going to run risers with bars but I decided to run clip-ons. Eventually I will be buying a different top size triple piece that is not drilled along with different clip-ons as well. The ones in the picture are strictly to move it around and what not.

I will be drilling and tapping bolts to prevent the tank from getting slapped as well...in addition, the other GSXR rotor/caliper will be added as well, it's in the works before the bike is finished.

[calj737]

Sorry, my question about the tapped hole was on the top of the bottom clamp in the picture. Where you posted the new VIN tag. Is that a modification for a different steering stop perhaps?