Topic: Seeley Honda CB750F - SH7-655F - - the rebuild starts

[jaguar]

I don't think mine has tabs for the tank rubbers.  I would have to check to confirm.

Was going to use something like this on the frame.
Then something front and rear to hold it down.  The tank has hooks.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?itemDescription=Fuel+Tank+Rubber+Damper+Z1+KZ900%2f1000+H1+H2&item=92075-084

[01Thomas]

I suspect that might be because it's difficult to grip the cone but I really don't know how they did it. I didn't photograph it, but there is no step or any other imperfection in my inner race after grinding.
of course you could also go about it the other way: find a bearing with a correctly fitting inner ring and an oversize outer ring and then have that oversize outer ring ground down to size?

I was told that it was nearly impossible to have the ID of the cone gearing ground open.

[01Thomas]

It cost ZAR 150. At current exchange rates that would be about US$12 ?
Yes the frame does have posts for tank rubbers. It's a tube with OD of about 10mm welded to the underside of the upper frame rails. It protrudes about 15mm beyond the frame rails on either side? IIRC, the coil mounting is welded to the centre of this tube. if I remember I'll take some photos of this tank mounting tomorrow.

Tom, what did it cost to have the race ID opened up? I suspect they used a sort of center-less grinding operation?
Regarding the tank rubbers, does your frame have posts to mount them???

Steve, the tubing used for the steering head was rather thin wall, and the appropriate metric bearing would have dropped right through the ID. With the 2" OD race, there is enough material (barely) to machine a shelf for the race to seat on.

[01Thomas]

Yes, my fuel tank has round knobs front and rear to attach the hold-down rubbers. For the front I used to use one of the large oil-filter o-rings which I tied round the frame rails with a cable-tie and I'll probably do that again this time round.
For the rear I used a loop of inner tubing (from a motorbike wheel) but I had to replace it regularly.

I don't think mine has tabs for the tank rubbers.  I would have to check to confirm.

Was going to use something like this on the frame.
Then something front and rear to hold it down.  The tank has hooks.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?itemDescription=Fuel+Tank+Rubber+Damper+Z1+KZ900%2f1000+H1+H2&item=92075-084

[01Thomas]

On all my bikes I've always had a problem with the cosmetics of my brake callipers. You can't paint them because the slightest drop of brake fluid destroys the paint. Powder coating isn't much better, and I'm not enamoured by silicone brake fluids, even though they don't damage the paint one has to be carefull in tems of seal compatibility.

Anodising? I'm told that good anodising is very difficult to achieve and the colour is seldom consistent.

So I found a company around here that specialises in industrial coatings. They're called Kalgard (Google their website) and I took my callipers there for their black brake-fluid-resistant treatment. I hope to get them back before the Easter weekend and will then post some photos. Of course the test of time will take a year or more but my mates all went this route and are quite positive about it.

Kalgard also do an anti-rust, anti-corrosion aluminium coating for exhausts and I think I'll let them have my 4-1 sometime soon. In terms of colour it comes out aluminium-silver and I'll just give it a thin coating of heat-resistant rattle-can black afterwards to get the aesthetics right again.

I also took some bits & bobs to the electroplaters today to get them galvanised. Tomorrow I'll get some more stainless steel screws, nuts and bolts. I'm also looking for a suitable plastic rear "inner mudguard", the bit that sits between the battery-box and the rearwheel. mine is finished.

I found a close-up of my front fuel tank mounting which I'll post in a moment. You can see the end of the hollow tube in the centre of the rubber.

Last week I opened up the crankcase. The primary drive chains are.... FINISHED! While the tensioners' rubber roller still looks OK-ish (but it's quite hard), on the attached photo you can see witness marks where the chains have been whipping the tensioner carrier-plate. Fortunately the replacement were ordered well in advance and are sitting in my garage waiting to be put to use.

Also two of the ball bearings on the gearbox mainshaft are knackered. the one on the end of the shaft feels 'grainy' and the one just behind the clutch basket has a very distinct fault at one point of rotation.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Powder coat seems to resist DOT brake fluid decently.  I still wipe any spill ASAP.

[jaguar]

I have also had good luck with PC.

[andy750]

Amazing attention to detail. Thanks for all the great info.

[01Thomas]

OK, Having read here that you've all had better results with powdercoat I've decided to give it another whirl. this morning I took my rear brake calliper in for coating.

This morning I also took my Pagehiln footbrake master cylinder in to have a new piston machined and new seals fitted. There wasn't really anything wrong with the current steel piston except that the anvil, the part that protrudes and makes contact with the brake lever, rusts and always looks grungy. And I stocked up on stainless steel fasteners; my local supplier allows us to buy in ones and twos which brings him lots of biking customers.
I have also taken some more photos of the forward fuel tank mounting and the coil mountings and I hope to upload those tomorrow.

[scottly]

Yes, my fuel tank has round knobs front and rear to attach the hold-down rubbers. For the front I used to use one of the large oil-filter o-rings which I tied round the frame rails with a cable-tie and I'll probably do that again this time round.
For the rear I used a loop of inner tubing (from a motorbike wheel) but I had to replace it regularly.

I don't think mine has tabs for the tank rubbers.  I would have to check to confirm.

Was going to use something like this on the frame.
Then something front and rear to hold it down.  The tank has hooks.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?itemDescription=Fuel+Tank+Rubber+Damper+Z1+KZ900%2f1000+H1+H2&item=92075-084

For cushioning between the frame tubes and the tank I used pipe insulation foam. To hold down the rear of the tank, I used a length of solid rubber bungee, with the ends wrapped around the upper frame tubes and secured with cable ties. At the front, I sliced another length of the bungee to make it fit under the hook on the tank, and wrapped the ends around the coil mount, secured again with ties. To stretch the straps onto or off the hooks, I thread a long cable tie under the strap, holding both ends of the tie. The ones currently on the bike have been there for almost 20 years now.    

[01Thomas]

Thanks Scottly. I've also used pipe insulation foam for cushioning.

[01Thomas]

Oh and the retainers welded to my tank are different to yours: they are round knobs about 20mm in diameter? Sometime when I get to my tank I'll take some photos.

[01Thomas]

So what's been happening to my Seeley? Bits & pieces, is what.

I got some stuff back from the platers before Easter. They didn't just nickelplate stuff for me, I also asked them to buff up the footrest plates and having them back I was able to assemble the riders' footrests. The left one is non-folding - another Colin Seeley idiosyncrasy. If you're going to make the RHS footrest foldable to acommodate the kickstarter, why not make them both foldable?

Be that as it may, here is the LHS footrest, footrest plate and the gear lever. You may note that the gearlever is non-standard and that's because many years ago the original Seeley item broke. If I recall correctly it was of a tapered tubular construction? maybe one of you can post a photo of your stock Seeley Honda gearlever?

[01Thomas]

As I mentioned before, the RHS footpeg differs from the LHS one in that it's foldable to allow the kickstarter to be used. I had all the parts chromed and used stainless steel fasteners to assemble them. Of course it also incorporates the footbrake pedal.

Also of note is that the footrest rubbers are from some or other older Yamaha - the underside has the Yamaha tuningfork logo embossed on them. They were just a bit too loose a fit on the pet and would swivel about so I drilled and tapped an M4 hole in the peg and secured the rubbers to the pegs' underside with an M4 screw.

[01Thomas]

My bike, being a frame for the CB750F, came with a disc rear brake and as such needed a footbrake master cylinder. Seeley fitted a very cute little Pagehiln unit. I didn't like that the end of the piston which projects and is contacted by the brake pedal (let's call it the anvil) always rusted and looked grungy. I wanted to have a new piston made in stainless but grant, the local brake fixer-upper suggested brass instead so we went with that. He fitted new seals too and best of all it all came to only ZAR150 - about USD13 ?.

So I've assembled that master cylinder and fitted it to the bike just behind the RHS footpeg.

[Tews19]

Subscribed.  Great build happening here.

[jaguar]

Very interesting about the brake plates.
Don't have any of that stuff with mine.
Looking at everything, it doesn't seem hard to duplicate it.

[01Thomas]

Jag, when you're ready just shout and I'll make you some  drawings or photocopies of the footpeg carrier plates.

[jaguar]

Cant hurt.
When ever you get a chance

[01Thomas]

OK, will do when I have a moment

[754]

Looks like a Hurst Airhart master cylinder.

[01Thomas]

Yes, I have heard that said before. I imagine it was some sort of licensing deal?

Looks like a Hurst Airhart master cylinder.

[01Thomas]

Sooo... while it all seems very quiet down here I have actually been busy.

I have fitted the fairing bracket/headlamp holder. Today when I sat on the bike I noticed that it is quite obviously skew and would have the headlight pointing off to the left. so I'll have to remove it again to see what the problem is.

I have also fitted the two hooters, one on either side of the headlight shell.
And I have fitted the speedo and revco. These will still need some work as they are mismatched. I will concern myself with fettling and restoring them at a later date. I'll shortly be making contact with Lecram and placing an order.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Sooo... while it all seems very quiet down here I have actually been busy.

I have fitted the fairing bracket/headlamp holder. Today when I sat on the bike I noticed that it is quite obviously skew and would have the headlight pointing off to the left. so I'll have to remove it again to see what the problem is.

I have also fitted the two hooters, one on either side of the headlight shell.
. . . .

Well, I guess you have been busy. 

[01Thomas]

I have received all the black parts back from the spray painter and so have been able to assemble the battery box with the fusebox, the regulator, the rectifier and the starter solenoid.

A friend had a good plastic inner rear mudguard and have made that fit. On the original Honda frame this is held at the bottom by two clips but the Seeley frame has two drilled tabs, one on either side, so I drilled two 6mm holes in the appropriate location and fitted this inner mudguard. At the top end it is held by the shock mounting screws.