Topic: Bottom mount headlight bracket

[dgilling]

I recently got a 7" Bottom mount headlight from 4into1.  It's a bates style headlight.  I'm wondering what others have done as far as mounting bottom mount headlight assemblies.  I would like to see some custom brackets others have made and what mounting holes they have used.  I don't like the look of the headlight ears so i went with the bottom mount. 

My bike is pretty much stock in that area so the only mounting hole i see is where the hydraulic brake switch would mount. 

[grcamna2]

I have an 05' complete H4 factory oem used headlight assembly for a Honda CMX250C Rebel w/ the bottom mount for sale w/ real nice chrome.The lower triple that they use has a large hole where the bottom mount goes through and it has a lock bolt that tightens down well.This is an improvement over the earlier year Rebel 250's where they had a low 35 watt bulb and not so good of a reflector,this is a standard H4 55/60.

This will give you another idea dgilling on a mount system;you may want to drill a large hole in the front of your lower triple and then build up a few large washers and weld the washers together to the bottom triple & create a decent base for the light.Look on motogrid.com and see what the 2005' Honda CMX250C 250 Rebel front triple looks like on the diagram(it uses 33mm fork tubes),you could also look up a 1987 Honda CMX450C Rebel 450 which has larger fork tubes but the same type of lower hole/mount on the lower triple as the 250 Rebel has..

[MCRider]

I recently got a 7" Bottom mount headlight from 4into1.  It's a bates style headlight.  I'm wondering what others have done as far as mounting bottom mount headlight assemblies.  I would like to see some custom brackets others have made and what mounting holes they have used.  I don't like the look of the headlight ears so i went with the bottom mount. 

My bike is pretty much stock in that area so the only mounting hole i see is where the hydraulic brake switch would mount.

The way I've seen it done is to relocate or do away with the brake junction block. Then run a strap between the 2 fork clamp bolts with a tab welded in the center for the Hlight. Only way to get it centered with enough strength.

[grcamna2]

I agree w/ Ron on a Strong mount;the factory oem Rebels have a strong,cast iron mount as part of the lower triple.The road shock and vibration will crack anything else that's not up to the task.

[dgilling]

I say hmmmmm to all of that.  I guess I didn't realize this would be that big of a task.  I have a fork leg stabilizer that cam on it.  I think I can build a bracket for it pretty easy.  I don't think I want to change the triple or drill on it. 

thanks for the offer grcamna2, but I've already purchased the light I want to use. 

[grcamna2]

Sure gilling,
A fork brace would help to use and it would be a solid mounting point to use for your headlight.

[Mr Freeze]

I didn't run a 7" light, but mines's a bottom mount nonetheless.

[Airborne 82nd]

I didn't run a 7" light, but mines's a bottom mount nonetheless.

I like those bars. Could you post a link for where you bought them and how much rise they have without the risers they are mounted on?
Thanks.

[Mr Freeze]

Here's the bars. I has the specs in the description. I ended up cutting down the width on them quite a bit, but they've been great.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-Black-Motorcycle-Euro-Bars-Handlebars-Wide-For-Honda-Suzuki-Yamaha-Ducati-/221632171144?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item339a4e8c88&vxp=mtr

[martin99]

Found this the other day. Doesn't look like it would be too hard to make something similar

http://www.cb750cafe.com/products-page/hardware-clamps/honda-cb750-bobber-brat-headlight-bracket-sohc-1969-1978-honda/

[Airborne 82nd]

Here's the bars. I has the specs in the description. I ended up cutting down the width on them quite a bit, but they've been great.
Features:
•7/8" Black Motorcycle Handlebar
•Euro Style Handlebars made from Heavy Duty Steel

Specification:
•Color: Black
•Style: Euro
•Bar Size: 7/8"
•Material: Heavy Duty Steel
•Condition: 100% Brand New

Fitment:
•Complete Custom Application, Modification May Be Required
•Diameter: 7/8"
•Width: 33"
•Center Width: 6"
Package Includes:
•1x Black Handlebar (7/8" Diameter)
•Instructions not included

 They do not give the rise or pull back. Any chance you could measure that and post?
Thanks in advance.

[grcamna2]

The bottom mount for your headlight needs to be Very strong and solid otherwise it'll crack from vibration/road shock down the road.

[dgilling]

I wanted to bring this post back up to show the solution I came up with.  The machinest at work hooked it up!  I had an old TV wall mount bracket that I kept around for spare metal and used it to make the bracket.  It looks pretty good as is, but I kind of think I want to work in the original plate to cover it up.  What do you guys think?  Bare bracket or modify the plate to fit?  I'd have to grind the plate back where the mounting screw is for the bottom of the headlight, after that I think it would fit.





I had to move the brake switch up slightly and used this bracket I had laying around.  Works pretty good.  I'll eventually paint it black to hide. 





I zip tied the plate up there to get an idea of how it would look.  I'm thinking I'll try to make it work.

[grcamna2]

if it was mine I'd make 2 main brackets like you did and double-up/weld'em together for more strength and resistance to vibration and road shock.

[martin99]

if it was mine I'd make 2 main brackets like you did and double-up/weld'em together for more strength and resistance to vibration and road shock.

+1.
Did you look at the link I posted to Carpy's bracket earlier? Same deal but looks substantially stronger. I like your solution, but IIWM I would remake it in heavier (thicker) material.

[dgilling]

if it was mine I'd make 2 main brackets like you did and double-up/weld'em together for more strength and resistance to vibration and road shock.

+1.
Did you look at the link I posted to Carpy's bracket earlier? Same deal but looks substantially stronger. I like your solution, but IIWM I would remake it in heavier (thicker) material.

I did look at the Carpy bracket and that's where I got the idea.  Same thickness of steel accept my angle carries all the way out to the end.  Mine would be considerably stronger than the carpy version.  Without a doubt.  To me it seems very sufficient for the task.  I had a mechanical engineer give me some tips on the cut too to keep strength in the bracket. 

I guess the road will be the true test.  I just need to get the electrical working first 

[70CB750]

Curious how well it will work on the road