Author Topic: 1977 CB550F. First project. (Read 6044 times)

Adam77 · « **Reply #25 on:** July 30, 2015, 08:19:54 PM »

Quote from: riverfever on July 30, 2015, 08:06:58 PM

Yes. Helicoil. Or new carb body.

Well, that's not exactly what I wanted to hear, but at least it's something. I'll look into helicoiling it. Thanks for the help.

riverfever · « **Reply #26 on:** July 30, 2015, 08:55:27 PM »

Look....I know it sounds hard but installing a helicoil will be easy. The carb body is right in front of you. Absolute worse case scenario...if it doesn't work you're gonna find a #2 carb body. What carbs do you have? Look on the #4 body (outside edge) and there should be some numbers stamped in them. Might be 022A??

Adam77 · « **Reply #27 on:** July 30, 2015, 09:11:30 PM »

Quote from: riverfever on July 30, 2015, 08:55:27 PM

Look....I know it sounds hard but installing a helicoil will be easy. The carb body is right in front of you. Absolute worse case scenario...if it doesn't work you're gonna find a #2 carb body. What carbs do you have? Look on the #4 body (outside edge) and there should be some numbers stamped in them. Might be 022A??

It's a O69A. I haven't had a lot of luck with tapping new threads in the past. It'll be worth a shot though.

riverfever · « **Reply #28 on:** July 30, 2015, 09:12:26 PM »

Whats been the problem?

Adam77 · « **Reply #29 on:** August 04, 2015, 11:20:10 PM »

Happily reporting back. Replaced orings on the main jets, float bowls, and bowl screws. Took out a couple of the emulsifiers and they were very clean, so I left the rest. Cleaned bottom of bowls and inside the carb where it had the white crud. Replaces missing leaf spring.

On the pilot jet that wouldn't stay in, I opted to use some JB weld Steel Stik. After activating a chunk of the expoxy putty, I made a very small snake and wrapped it around the threads of the jet and pushed it into the threads, then squished it into the jet hole. After waiting for it to set (5 min) I backed it out, cleaned around the hole a bit, and left the jet out for another half hour for it to cure. Then sure enough, I was able to screw it in and it showed no signs of wanting to fall back out, although I didn't try pulling on it too hard.

After a couple of minutes of trying to get some gas in the carbs, it fired up! Rode it around the block a little when it died. But it didn't take much to get it back going. After a while, it really perked up. It runs absolutely beautifully! Even much better than when I first bought it.

My next goals are rebuilding the front brake, finding a brighter headlight, cleaning electrical contacts, and heat shrinking some wires that keep coming loose.

flatlander · « **Reply #30 on:** August 05, 2015, 12:53:09 AM »

just to chime in:
when you look at the tank and petcock, also check if the fuel filter inside the tank is good or present at all. if not, replace it with an OEM one. without it you run the risk of getting crap into the carbs, and the in-tank filter in my experience works better than an inline one.

carry on...

Adam77 · « **Reply #31 on:** August 05, 2015, 10:49:59 AM »

Quote from: flatlander on August 05, 2015, 12:53:09 AM

just to chime in:
when you look at the tank and petcock, also check if the fuel filter inside the tank is good or present at all. if not, replace it with an OEM one. without it you run the risk of getting crap into the carbs, and the in-tank filter in my experience works better than an inline one.

carry on...

Thanks! The petcock was actually the first part I replaced months ago, since the nipple that the fuel line connects to was mostly broken off. While I had the tank off yesterday I swished the gas around and poured it into a clean bucket to see what kind of junk came out. It was mostly very clean, with only a bit of particulate. I can't find much of any trace of rust inside. I'll probably reseal the inside of the tank over the winter when I plan to do a paint job.

Adam77 · « **Reply #32 on:** August 07, 2015, 11:04:19 PM »

The other day I went through all of the wires and cleaned all of the bullet connectors and plugs. Soldered and heat shrinked some wires the PO taped in. I'm waiting for parts to rebuild the front brake.

I'm currently looking at what light to do. I have a thread here with some questions on my proposed setup.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,150426.0.html

I went for about a 30 mile ride and it ran smoothly the entire way. When I got back I noticed a considerable amount of oil all over the right side of the engine, ride side cover, frame, and exhaust. I can't find any obvious leaks. Possibly the seals on the engine? I don't have a clue where to start looking/replacing. Thoughts?

flatlander · « **Reply #33 on:** August 07, 2015, 11:19:10 PM »

as it is now, it sounds there's so much that it's impossible to tell where it originates from. clean off the oil and, if there is any, other dirt. make sure there's still enough oil in the engine.
then run the engine and check periodically for oil starting to appear. that gives you a better indication of where it comes from.
to further narrow it down you can use baby powder or something similar that will show more clearly where even small amounts of oil come from.

if you need help, some pictures would be useful.

calj737 · « **Reply #34 on:** August 08, 2015, 04:15:10 AM »

Definitely clean as Flatlander said, and use the baby powder trick to dust the valve cover, cam end caps, and then warm it up and ride. Stop every few miles and inspect the baby powder, it will be dark and obvious where the oil originates from.

Adam77 · « **Reply #35 on:** August 08, 2015, 03:40:42 PM »

Great idea with the baby powder! I'll give it a try when I get a chance next week.

Gene · « **Reply #36 on:** August 08, 2015, 04:06:54 PM »

Check your tach seal.

Adam77 · « **Reply #37 on:** August 12, 2015, 10:24:34 PM »

Update: Used baby powder to try to figure out where the leak was coming from. After about 30 miles worth of riding, the leak was no where to be found. Not a drop. No idea why.

Tested my charging system. Everything seems to work great.

New taillights and signals came in. Haven't had time to bolt them on yet.

Waiting on SS brake lines to come in. Working on rebuilding the master cylinder and caliper right now. I decided to strip the paint off of the caliper and I'm going to sand them down and polish.

Next on the to-do list is new front springs and rebuild forks. Steering, rear and front bearings.

Adam77 · « **Reply #38 on:** August 16, 2015, 08:29:29 PM »

I'm preparing to install my newly rebuilt MC and caliper, but have a couple of questions I'm not clear on. Most of the how to's I've found don't give much detail to assembling the caliper and pads. Do I use silicone grease on the entire back of the brake pads? My shop manual is unclear where to apply. Do I need to use brake part lube on the piston and seal or will a bit of brake fluid do the job?

Why does a 77 550F have so few parts in the MC compared to other years? Did they just decide that it didn't need a check valve or stopper washer?

Stev-o · « **Reply #39 on:** August 16, 2015, 08:37:33 PM »

Put high temp silicone grease on the back of the one pad on the piston side.
A little brake fluid on the prison and seal will work fine.

My current project is a '76 550F, changed out the fork seals today.

Adam77 · « **Reply #40 on:** August 16, 2015, 09:14:11 PM »

Quote from: Stev-o on August 16, 2015, 08:37:33 PM

Put high temp silicone grease on the back of the one pad on the piston side.
A little brake fluid on the prison and seal will work fine.

My current project is a '76 550F, changed out the fork seals today.

Ok. I was taking a closer look and that sounds good. Should I prepare the pads and the rotor by sanding them? I wont be able to access my bike until Tuesday to check the rotor with my fingernail.

I have new springs, fork seals, wheel and steering bearings coming in, which I'm planning on working on next Sunday.

calj737 · « **Reply #41 on:** August 17, 2015, 06:03:45 AM »

Don't sand the rotor. you should test fit the pad into the caliper body and be certain it slips in and out freely. If not, gently, sand the edges of the new pads until its slick. Perhaps a very gentle scuff on the face of the pad is all i might do, but I prefer to bed the pads in with some gentle riding. Clean the rotor very well before riding, then again after your first couple of rides form any pad discharge.

Adam77 · « **Reply #42 on:** August 17, 2015, 11:42:27 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on August 17, 2015, 06:03:45 AM

Don't sand the rotor. you should test fit the pad into the caliper body and be certain it slips in and out freely. If not, gently, sand the edges of the new pads until its slick. Perhaps a very gentle scuff on the face of the pad is all i might do, but I prefer to bed the pads in with some gentle riding. Clean the rotor very well before riding, then again after your first couple of rides form any pad discharge.

Perfect. That answered everything for me. Thanks!

Adam77 · « **Reply #43 on:** August 17, 2015, 09:50:48 PM »

Just wanted to share a picture I edited in photoshop. Playing around with how I'd like to repaint it this winter. I'm really interested in doing a nonstock color but keep the same decals for the authentic look. Red looks pretty sharp!

calj737 · « **Reply #44 on:** August 18, 2015, 05:17:12 AM »

Nice red. Would look better if you Photoshopped a hot babe atop your bike

Adam77 · « **Reply #45 on:** August 30, 2015, 09:51:05 PM »

Over the past couple of weeks I have been able to make some good progress. The newly rebuild MC and caliper work like a dream. New front fork springs and a change of fork seals and oil (used 5w-30). New tank mount rubbers, took care of a rattle under the tank at some rpm. New taillight and signals installed. Lookin' sharp. Ended up replacing the speedo cable. And due to being sick of the old headlight bracket, I installed a slick lower profile one.

My current concern is the front suspension. After changing the springs to progressive and new oil, it still rides just about to same. I would describe it as kind of "bouncy" under 60 mph or so. Is that just how it will feel? Or can I use a thicker fork oil or something to stiffen it up but still keep it smooth?

Here are a couple pictures.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #46 on:** August 30, 2015, 11:44:50 PM »

Did you use motor oil in your forks? Listed 5w30...that is why I ask.
pick up some Belray or other brand of fork oil and refill it with 15w oil. If that is still bouncy you can add plastic pipe to preload the spring and then there is the option to move to 20w but, I doubt you are going that stiff.
Your front spring may be worn out, common issue, and need replaced with either straight rate or progressive rate springs.
If you really want to improve the front keeping stock setup then install cartridge emulators.
Going beyond that means later fork design or retrofit a modern Right-Side-Up (RSU) or Upside Down fork design with cartridge damper.

David

Ps. Saw you said you replaced springs with progressively wound springs. What rate and who made them?
How much preload are you using?
What weight, brand, and type of oil in the forks?

calj737 · « **Reply #47 on:** August 31, 2015, 05:17:33 AM »

Use hydraulic fluids for your suspension, not engine oil. Transmission fluid is fine too, power steering, etc... The fluid is under tremendous compression and engine oil is not designed for that.

Adam77 · « **Reply #48 on:** August 31, 2015, 09:00:13 AM »

Whoops, I misstated. Guess I shouldn't post when tired after a long day. I used 10w-30 hardware store brand motor oil in the forks, as specified by my manual. I did some research before deciding to use 10w-30, and it looked like no one ever agrees what to use, so I went by the book.

I put in these progressive fork springs
http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-suspension/fork-springs/progressive-suspension-fork-springs?m=151840

So using ATF in the forks would stiffen them up for me? I noticed in my manual that it is recommended for 350s.

Thanks guys

Stev-o · « **Reply #49 on:** August 31, 2015, 06:23:54 PM »

I use ATF and doubt it would stiffen it up. Try adding preload spacers, 1" PVC pipe about 1.5" tall.

News:

Author Topic: 1977 CB550F. First project. (Read 6044 times)