Topic: 466 project turned in to a 3+ year gig. now redoing the transmission.

[Jore]

I managed to remove the rotor, a M18x1.5 bolt is what's used to remove it if anyone's wondering about the size. Tomorrow I'll have another go and hope I can split the cases during the weekend and maybe prep them for paint.

[straat-toe]

Hey Jore.

Good to see you got enjoyment out of the bike before taking it apart. Unlike me. I'm finally rebuilding the engine a few years down the line.  If this is your first time splittng the 400 cases. Remember to take the Primary shaft out.

It makes splitting the cases much easier when the primary chain isn't attached to both the primary shaft and the crank shaft. The tensioner that's attached to the top case loops around the crank and holds the cases pretty much together while the primary chain is still on the primary shaft..... You might already be aware of it. Just thought I would give you a heads-up. This was my biggest Noob learning curve when I split my 400. 

Good luck. 

[Jore]

Thanks Straat, i think I managed to ride it for about 300 km before taking it apart, it's been about 2 years now since I've ridden it.

[strynboen]

on mine first 400 f..i had big problems..to get the crankshaft ,and that horseshue tensioner..to free
..think i vill cut the cam chain..on my NeXT procjekt..think it vill free it up.
.hope to get on the 400.. this Winter..have only have one ride 150 km..on the bike..the rattel vas to hard..so put it avay for better times...riding the 550 ..last seson..

[Jore]

I haven't played around much with the chain, but a few days back I could slide some parts around without to much trouble, hope it's the same deal with the chain.

Also being that I now have an electric impact wrench disassembly is going so much smoother I had been having trouble removing the front chain sprocket because it would spin on it's every time I tried using a spanner or socket on it, with the impact it was less than a minute!

[Jore]

By the way after removing the sprocket I found this:



Besides being really grimey, it appears to have a wad of human hair  no idea on how that got there, either way I'm cleaning that up and replacing the oil seal.

[Jore]

THE CASES ARE SPLIT!!!!!!!!!

I've split them today, surprisingly the most complicated part was removing a snap ring, the cheapo pliers I had bent, so I had to get new ones, everything else was pretty straight forward.

I first moved the housing to a work bench.



Then I drilled the bench so I could pass the stud through



And that was the setup


I marked a piece of cardboard to place all the bolts and split the cases, it was really easy (you can see the cardboard in the back there) I also found out that I could run my impact driver with the old battery.


The trans looks good and the shift forks are thick and don't seem to be worn out


It started to get dark so I just wrapped the trans in some cling film and called it a day.


I'll continue tomorrow.

[Jore]

Today I changed the drain plug on the oil pan. The original one was pretty mangled up and almost round, the PO appears to only have worked on the bike using vice grips and a hammer.

This is the original one:


A side to side on both of them, the new one is stainless steel slightly thicker and has a magnet on it, I got it at a local parts store It's an M14 size.



I drilled the original threads since some of those where also messed up and tapped the new ones, from the inside clearance seems to be good also.



I also gave the oil pan a coat of bed lining, originally I had painted it silver like the  breather cover, but It didn't look the way I wanted so it ended up being black.



Later today I'll head down to the machine shop and figure out a solution to the cam adjuster, I'm leaning towards something like this:

[Redline it]

Today I changed the drain plug on the oil pan. The original one was pretty mangled up and almost round, the PO appears to only have worked on the bike using vice grips and a hammer.

This is the original one:


A side to side on both of them, the new one is stainless steel slightly thicker and has a magnet on it, I got it at a local parts store It's an M14 size.



I drilled the original threads since some of those where also messed up and tapped the new ones, from the inside clearance seems to be good also.



I also gave the oil pan a coat of bed lining, originally I had painted it silver like the  breather cover, but It didn't look the way I wanted so it ended up being black.



Later today I'll head down to the machine shop and figure out a solution to the cam adjuster, I'm leaning towards something like this:

I wonder if the PO knew about using metric vice grips. Youtube's Ichiban Moto high tech cafe racer builder demonstrates the correct use of specialized tools, like metric vice grips.

[strynboen]

uou need a o ring to make it leak free..that oil vill kreep through the threddet part..or give it some thik lockteit..
i have made one like yours..but it still rattel..so think my thain are gone to far..
have to make a better tensioner bolt. this one is a test. think it vill leak..need to make a cylendric part the o ring rest against,,and a groove it can seat in

[Jore]

Thanks for the o-ring idea, hadn't thought of that.

[Restoration Fan]

I wonder if the PO knew about using metric vice grips. Youtube's Ichiban Moto high tech cafe racer builder demonstrates the correct use of specialized tools, like metric vice grips.

LOL, I saw that episode.  The first couple of videos of his that I watched, I was like WTF?  Then I realized I was being stupid because he was just spoofing stuff.  At that point, I started enjoying his videos again...they're 'badass". 

[Jore]

I'll have to start watching those then lol.

[thirsty 1]

Today I changed the drain plug on the oil pan. The original one was pretty mangled up and almost round, the PO appears to only have worked on the bike using vice grips and a hammer.

This is the original one:


A side to side on both of them, the new one is stainless steel slightly thicker and has a magnet on it, I got it at a local parts store It's an M14 size.



I drilled the original threads since some of those where also messed up and tapped the new ones, from the inside clearance seems to be good also.



I also gave the oil pan a coat of bed lining, originally I had painted it silver like the  breather cover, but It didn't look the way I wanted so it ended up being black.



Later today I'll head down to the machine shop and figure out a solution to the cam adjuster, I'm leaning towards something like this:

I wonder if the PO knew about using metric vice grips. Youtube's Ichiban Moto high tech cafe racer builder demonstrates the correct use of specialized tools, like metric vice grips.

Put the lower locking nut in a vice. Use a 3/8" drill bit and drill a chamfer into the nut. Install a oring the size of the adjuster stud and Voila' ! Oring on your adjuster.

[thirsty 1]

uou need a o ring to make it leak free..that oil vill kreep through the threddet part..or give it some thik lockteit..
i have made one like yours..but it still rattel..so think my thain are gone to far..
have to make a better tensioner bolt. this one is a test. think it vill leak..need to make a cylendric part the o ring rest against,,and a groove it can seat in

sorry I missed this up above. Take the nut off and do the chamfer (counter sink) the o-ring.

[Redline it]

I wonder if the PO knew about using metric vice grips. Youtube's Ichiban Moto high tech cafe racer builder demonstrates the correct use of specialized tools, like metric vice grips.

LOL, I saw that episode.  The first couple of videos of his that I watched, I was like WTF?  Then I realized I was being stupid because he was just spoofing stuff.  At that point, I started enjoying his videos again...they're 'badass". 

What? Spoofing stuff? His tin snips are some bad ass cutters.

[Jore]

Sorry for not updating anything but the holidays got in the way, I've got a new petcock for the tanks, it's a harley unit instead of something from honda, I'm using an adapter to mount it. Check out this post If you want further info:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,154341.msg1765195.html#msg1765195

And this is how the part looks:

[Jore]

I got the cases painted and cured now, the turned out really well, now it's just a matter of putting the innards back in the correct order. So here are the pics of it.

Lower case, with oil filter adapter, also the oil pan and filter are painted truck bed lining.


Upper case


Lower case mounted in the frame to get an idea about fitting and clearance for the new filter. I got really exited when I saw this in place.


And finally the painted parts and the new seat


Now I need to get the innards back in to the cases, is there a more detailed manual on how to put that back? I have the service manual for the bike, but the instructions are kinda vague to my understanding. All the tips are welcome.

[Jore]

Seems that most of my picture links are dead, I'll change those later on, In the mean time it's good to be back, I finally closed up the case and installed the transmission, now it's just a matter of setting up the linkage correctly so I can try going through the gears. What do you guys recommend when doing that, if the transmission works out correctly I'll install the top part and later on do a bench test run.

This is my progress so far:

[Jore]

I had a really good weekend, first I made some rough looking but functional paddock stands and between saturday and sunday I got the engine mounted in the frame, I'm so happy after 3 years not working, and 2 with the engine in pieces it starting to look like a bike again!



-I need a to redo the wiring and get a headlight for it, there's a place locally that sells some 5 inch round LED headlights with high and low beam settings, I'm thinking of getting one of those since they draw about 30w on high a bit less on low beam.
-The bike doesn't have any brakes for the moment, the rear has new brake pads, but I got to reinstall the linkage and lever. The front hydraulic lines are are garbage, so I need to redo those, I also have new front brake pads.
-The carbs are in pieces.
-The clutch is out, but I have new fiber discs and HD springs.
-Need to reinstall the airbox.
-Fix the front fender since it's all dinged up and find a solution for the rear.

And that's about as much as I have left before a working bike.
-

[strynboen]

my fuel tap is leaking..and karbs dont hold the fuel line..one is overfloting and one is  mostly dry..
but you are on the right vay....to the road..

[Jore]

Thanks strynboen, it's missing some things but yes, it's getting there.