Author Topic: 466 project turned in to a 3+ year gig. now redoing the transmission. (Read 16953 times)

Jore · « **Reply #75 on:** September 14, 2015, 05:18:51 PM »

I've just come back from the machinist, I have good news and bad news, although I think it can go either way:

1. The head is in top shape, everything in spec, only the valves need to be lapped.
2. The cylinder walls don't look so good, especially the one that got stuck.
3. I'll need to overbore the cylinders.

So those are the main points, and being that the only piston kit I've found within reasonable price are the the ones from the 466 kit, that's the route I'm going, I talked to the machinist and he told me it can be done.

Since moving the frame inside I think I'll start doing a mock-up of the other parts and might do an electronics pan to get the new wiring done. Here's how it looks btw.

Bigsam302 · « **Reply #76 on:** September 14, 2015, 07:27:57 PM »

I think that it is going to be a gorgeous bike. Keep up the good work!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #77 on:** September 14, 2015, 07:56:27 PM »

I think you'll like the extra power from the 466. At least the valves are in decent shape (only lapping required).

Jore · « **Reply #78 on:** September 14, 2015, 09:39:01 PM »

I've just bought the 466 kit from cruizinimage off of ebay, last time I ordered my new clutch from the seller it arrived to my home in about 10 days, about a week earlier from estimated, this time the arrival should be between sep 30th and oct 14, lets hope it gets here earlier.

In the mean time I think I should get to splitting my cases, what tips do you have for that? Should I remove the clutch and oil pump first while it's still on the stand or can I get to those once I have everything on the workbench?

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #79 on:** September 14, 2015, 11:06:05 PM »

Each time I've purchased from this seller, I receive the kit ahead of schedule.

Jore · « **Reply #80 on:** September 14, 2015, 11:17:09 PM »

According to ebay, it'sbeen already shipped! Take that for efficiency, lees than an hour between buying and shipping.

calj737 · « **Reply #81 on:** September 15, 2015, 04:56:42 AM »

There seems to be a secret recipe for those bikes that run the 466 kit that include: dropping the carb mains, and a few other cam/valve tricks. There's a thread or two rolling around that discuss this mod in pretty good detail. And of course, there's always Kevin Bidgood at www.ttr400.com for parts and rockstar advice. You may want to spend some time on his site and sifting through 400 motor threads (don't forget to look on the Hi-PO thread too). Doesn't matter that you're not building a race bike, general motor performance/improvement/tuning advice abounds there.

Jore · « **Reply #82 on:** September 16, 2015, 10:09:27 AM »

Being that we have a holiday here in Mexico, I last night pulled an all nighter doing my homework going through the 466 posts. I feel confident that with a lot of care and effort I can tackle this project.

In the mean time, I started an inventory on what I have and where it is and I'll be adding parts to the frame as a mock-up. This forum is an amazing source of knowledge.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #83 on:** September 16, 2015, 10:35:38 AM »

If you get in over your head, and you are in the DF, call Rodrigo Tuero or Luis Mercado Rojo at Soul Motor Co.

Jore · « **Reply #84 on:** September 16, 2015, 11:58:43 AM »

Thanks! DF is about 8 hours away from me, but still it's good to know that there are more people that can help out.

Jore · « **Reply #85 on:** September 23, 2015, 05:12:43 PM »

They're here!!!!

They feel so tony and light, kinda like toys! Just one question though, how big should the difference between the headgasket's opening and the pistons be? I compared the two and there's a few mm gap between them.

The head was supposed to be done today but I couldn't make it in time to the shop after work, so I'll go tomorrow and take the 466 kit along and what else will be needed. I'm stocked this thing is getting some steam!

calj737 · « **Reply #86 on:** September 23, 2015, 05:29:06 PM »

The metal rim within the gasket really seals the combustion chamber and thus you'd want to insure it mates to the underside of the head, or so I'm told...

Jore · « **Reply #87 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:57:46 AM »

I might be a parallax error since I just compared them through the packing bags. I took the kit to the machinist this morning and while there I took a look at the head, it's almost done they only need to do a cleaning on it, I'll pick it up this afternoon most probably, also I took a stroll through my local autozone and found that now they stock ZDDP additive! So I got a bottle for when it's needed, being that the guys at AZ didn't know if they would have it in stock again.

One more question, I only saw white lithium grease, but didn't see any assembly lube, can that be used or should I look someplace else?

calj737 · « **Reply #88 on:** September 24, 2015, 11:23:36 AM »

I would use true assembly lube. It differs from lithium grease. Lithium is fine outside the motor, but I'm unfamiliar with any uses internally.

Don R · « **Reply #89 on:** September 24, 2015, 03:50:57 PM »

Lucas has some good assembly lube on their display rack. They seem to make a few products that aren't snake oil either.

Jore · « **Reply #90 on:** September 24, 2015, 07:45:20 PM »

Well I picked up the head, the shop did a slight milling to it, they took about 3 thousands of an inch from it. I arrived on time to watch them do it an during the first pass you could see the high and low spots it had, coincidentally the low spots where from the same area oil wept. After being milled it looked all nice and shiny.

Here's one area of the shop, on this side they do mostly diesel and heavy machinery, they had a crankshaft laying around that was almost as tall as me.

This one's the head being milled

And here it is, sorry for the bad lighting:

I also found some proper assembly lube

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #91 on:** September 24, 2015, 08:56:52 PM »

Damn that machine decking the surface is no joke!

Jore · « **Reply #92 on:** September 24, 2015, 09:10:09 PM »

That's the smallest one they have, the biggest one is way bigger, it's a huge shop, when I come by for the cylinders all try and snap some more pictures.

Jore · « **Reply #93 on:** September 25, 2015, 03:52:21 PM »

Quick question, would it be advisable to add anti seize (like the type used for spark plugs) to the exhaust studs?

Jore · « **Reply #94 on:** September 27, 2015, 10:11:23 AM »

I got some new supplies yesterday so I can start the cleaning, first I got a full face shield, it's a real pita to use a pressure washer and have to kinda do it from the side as to not get sprayed directly in the face, I also got a respirator with the appropriate filter for chemicals, along with a really thin and long brush, that I might use to clean oil passages, some forceps to clamp scotch brite pads to, a thermometer for when I cure painted parts and finally copper sealant spray and a new tank for my torch, this last one I use on stubborn pieces that won't budge even after soaking them in penetrating oil.

Jore · « **Reply #95 on:** October 06, 2015, 11:48:23 PM »

I'm starting to prep the head for painting!

It's still missing a wipe down with acetone and maybe some scuffing with a scotch brite pad.

calj737 · « **Reply #96 on:** October 07, 2015, 06:00:38 AM »

you shouldn't need the scuff it for the primer/paint to stick. The cast alloy will have plenty of tooth to capture the paint. But acetone wipe down is a very good idea.

Jore · « **Reply #97 on:** October 07, 2015, 08:49:52 PM »

I finished tapping up all of the parts, I'll do the acetone wipe down using a scotch brite pad, even if it doesn't need it I don't think it would hurt it.

Edit: I also scored a dwell meter for about 15 bucks from the local ebay clone, but that's for when I'm doing the whole startup.

Jore · « **Reply #98 on:** October 11, 2015, 01:16:17 PM »

I began painting the top end. First I boiled everything in water, simple green and dish soap to clean all the grease out, after that I gave them a quick pass with a scotch brite pad and some acetone, and finally the paint, which I'll let are dry for a few days before baking it.

The boil:

Paint:

I couldn't find VHT paint locally but I came across a can of rustoleum engine enamel, it ended up with a real glossy finish.

The breather and tappet covers where done with duplicolor high heat aluminum

EDIT: I'll post results after the bake

Jore · « **Reply #99 on:** October 16, 2015, 10:13:01 PM »

Top end doesn't look half bad:

I still need to bake the black parts and polish the edge of the fins.

News:

Author Topic: 466 project turned in to a 3+ year gig. now redoing the transmission. (Read 16953 times)