Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter

[540nova]

We can probably work something out nova.

PM sent



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Restoration Fan]

I print my decals on waterslide paper.

TIL something new.  I had no idea such wizardry actually existed. 

[Harsh]

I print my decals on waterslide paper.

TIL something new.  I had no idea such wizardry actually existed.

Yep, I used it for the girls on the side covers when I built the 750.  The only crappy part about using it is you have to cut out whatever picture or design you print.  The benefit is that it is extremely thin so it doesn't get the raised edges vinyl does when you clear over it.  You are only limited to the colors your printer can produce.

[RAFster122s]

Maybe you need to consider a different program that can do the paint color from a scan codes obtained for mixing from the local auto paint place or home improvement center. The pantone number or RGB values....

I have Corel Draw X3...

Are you using clear or white decal paper?

David

[Harsh]

All I have is ms paint and paint.net.  I have about zero artistic capabilities so there has never been a need to purchase a better program.  However, I do like the idea of getting the color scanned.  When I had everything powder coated I had an extra flat piece done to make it easier for me in the house to match the color.  I am going to take it up to the paint Store and see if the will scan it for me.

I use the white backed paper.  Printers don't print white and whatever background color you apply them over will show through when using the clear.

[calj737]

The scanned color or spec color won't matter much as its all down to what your printer can produce. You can specify a Pantone or CMS color by number, but if the printer doesn't reproduce it (most home printers won't) accurately, its irrelevant as most print drivers interpolate color, not render them precisely by saturation.

[Harsh]

True, but it might get me closer than I have been moving the mouse around in the color wheel.

[calj737]

You can often type a color number by spec, regardless of the "output" capability. Look around in the dialogue box for Color Options (might be a pull down to allow a different color spectrum source).

[Harsh]

Managed to get the color matched.  I happened to be at Lowes this morning so I had them scan it.  That didn't do anything for me.  So I started comparing paint chips.  I found one that was really close.  A Google search for the RGB numbers was next.  Got those and plugged them into ms paint.  15 adjustments later I have it damn near spot on.  Since it will not be touching anything that is powder coated the extremely slight difference in color won't be noticed.

Thanks David for the suggestion.

[Harsh]

Well, like has been the case lately as soon as I order something I either find the piece I was missing or I figure it out.  Upon the suggestion on another forum I as able to get the controls to work.  The suggestion was to take the black wire (switched power) on the solenoid and book it to a ground vice power then hook up the red/yellow wire like I had been.  Sure enough the bike turns over when the starter button is depressed.

So that is working.  Unfortunately, I bought a set of Triumph Daytona 675 controls off of eBay this morning.  If only I had read the suggestion prior to the purchase I could have saved $45.

[Harsh]

Managed to get the color matched for the tank graphic.  I happened to be at Lowes this morning so I had them scan the extra flat piece I had powder coated.  That didn't do anything for me.  So I started comparing paint chips.  I found one that was really close.  A Google search for the RGB numbers for the paint chip was next.  Got those and plugged them into ms paint.  15 adjustments later I have it damn near spot on.  Since it will not be touching anything that is powder coated the extremely slight difference in color won't be noticed.  I must have looked like a goober when checking the color.  I laid the printed piece on my walkway with the powder coated piece on top and walked around to get different views at different angles and light/shade.  I got a few strange looks from people driving by.

And the horn doesn't work.  Finally remembered to give it a try on the bike.  When I had it out of the bike I remember hooking it up to the battery and all it would do is make a scratching noise.  When I pulled it out of the bike it was hot so there is definitely something wrong with it.

Took the dremel with a drum sanding bit and opened up the throttle tube housing.  It was almost 2mm too small and would not close all of the way.  Once that was done I was able to hook up the throttle cable and adjust it to get the carbs to open at the same time.  Got the clutch cable on and adjusted.  Air filters on and secured.  Headlight switch mounted in the triple.  I think it looks pretty good.  I was able to find a latching switch that had a cream colored top.  Rear sprocket is being made and I will order the front sprocket and chain tomorrow.

I ordered some more water slide decal paper so as soon as that gets here I will be making the call to my painter. 


Well it appears I am the killer of the horn.  I was looking for a replacement when I noticed this:

Note: Adjusting or removing the nut that holds the horn to the bracket or the small set screw on the back will prevent the horn from working properly.

I had removed the nut that holds the horn to the bracket so I could direct mount it.  I guess I won't be making that mistake with the new one.

[Darren Jakal]

This may not be relavent, but I've played around on this website and found it has some pretty good capacities for colour conversions.

Bike is looking great, your daughter is dam lucky!

Take care, dj

https://www.beautycolorcode.com/02e8fa

[Harsh]

Well I messed up again.  My rear sprocket arrived today since so I installed it on the wheel.  Got the rear wheel installed and went to hook up the brake rod.  That is when I realized I had the wrong one powder coated.  The one I had done is for the CB400 I used for the rear wheel.  As such it is about two inches longer than the one for the 350.  I picked the best one I had when I was prepping parts not noticing the difference in length.  I already talked with the guy that did my powder coating and he is going to hook me up.

[Harsh]

Things have been moving a bit slow these days.  A few new parts have arrived so that is good.  One of which is the horn.  Hooked it up directly to the battery and it works. 

I had a bit a play in the rear sprocket that I didn't like.  I was able to slide in another washer about the same thickness as the one that was already in there and things got nice and snug.  Reading through some other posts on the comstar wheels there have been reports of the washer and/or the spacer getting a bit worn so I ordered a new washer and spacer from David Silver Spares.  If the new parts don't take up the space I guess I could always use both washers.

Stopped by the painter the other day and went over things.  I will probably drop the parts off on Monday.

Also ordered a new battery.  In order to get one in a size that will fit the battery box and provide enough power I had to get one with the terminals on the opposite sides from stock.  However, if I rotate the battery 180* I can make things fit.  The ground line is not problem, but I will have to make a longer positive cable that goes to the solenoid.

The Triumph controls arrived yesterday and I am seriously thinking about using them.  I think they just look better.

As far as I can tell I think the only part I need to order is a brake line.  I have already talked with Shaun at Slingshot Cycles to have a custom one made.  Since he doesn't have a line listed for the CB400Tii all I need to do is send the oem line to him so he can use it as a reference to make mine.  He gives a bit of a discount if you send him a stock line that he doesn't already have to use as a reference for future builds.

Waterslide decal paper arrived yesterday so I will be printing up the decals today so they have way more time than necessary to dry.

Along with sanding/polishing the headers I think I might try and fire the bike up on Saturday.

[Harsh]

Well I was hoping to post today with good news, but I guess it wasn't meant to be.  I attempted to start the bike, but couldn't.  When I thumbed the starter it turned over once then kind of acted like the battery was dead.  If I held the starter button down I could hear a see the crank turning, but it was decrepedly slow.  Hooked up a different battery and had the same results.  Both batteries are new and had been on the charger prior to use. 


Then there is the issue with the rearsets.  So much for clearing the exhaust.  Not sure what I am going to do here.  As they are positioned they are already pointed too high.  I would have to point them so high to get a toe underneath the lever they would be nearly impossible to use.

I have never had a bike fight me as much as this one is.  It is pretty discouraging.

[calj737]

If you hook the battery jumper cables directly to the starter motor, other lead to ground, does the motor crank any better?

[Harsh]

Unplugged the battery from the charger (showed fully charged) and hooked it up directly to the starter motor.  It starts to turn over like you would expect (I got excited), but it didn't last more than about 5 seconds then went back to the anemic pace.

[540nova]

You can put a longer toe piece on the shifter to give you clearance to get under it. I did that, works well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Harsh]

I guess.  Where did you get a longer toe piece?  The rearsets are made by Slipstream Cycle Works.  I would still have to raise them a fair amount just to get them to be useable.  As they sit they are resting on the exhaust so there is zero downward movement available.  I wish there was a way to relax the bend in the header pipe.

[540nova]

I'm using an aftermarket Harley toe piece. Don't recall where it came from.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Restoration Fan]

Unplugged the battery from the charger (showed fully charged) and hooked it up directly to the starter motor.  It starts to turn over like you would expect (I got excited), but it didn't last more than about 5 seconds then went back to the anemic pace.

Are you sure the battery you're using has enough cranking amps, Harsh?

[Harsh]

It is the same one I use in the wife's bike.  Scorpion YT12C which has 180cca.

Which makes me wonder if something is putting a big load on the battery when trying to start.  How would one test the starter motor to see if it is working correctly?

[calj737]

Remove it from the motor. Hook it to a battery directly. Or use jumper cables from your car (my earlier meaning)

[Harsh]

That is the plan for today Cal.

What really annoys me about the rearsets is that they are supposed to fit.  It think that even if I had a stock exhaust on the bike I think they would still hit it.  I sent the manufacturer an email asking for some assistance.  The only thing I can think of is adding an extension to push the rearsets out a bit from the mounting locations will solve the problem, but I don't know how that will affect the heim joints.  I haven't measured, but I guestimate I need to move the reasets out about 3/4" so they clear the exhaust.  However, I do not like how the foot peg sits right over the top of the exhaust.  I think the heat will be a shoe melter.  Or I could try and extend the exhaust back a bit, but then I would lose any ability to lift the bike from the rear.  The stand in use in the pic just barely has room to get under the axle and not hit the exhaust.

[calj737]

Looks to me like you'll have to extend the main pipe so the muffler attaches farther back, then perhaps kick the muffler upwards to accommodate the rear sets.