Author Topic: CB750K3 pickup.  (Read 11215 times)

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Offline BrosefStalin

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CB750K3 pickup.
« on: July 27, 2015, 10:22:36 pm »
Hi everyone,

I picked up this bike in November of '14 and would like to document it. I did some cosmetic things over the winter when I wasn't working on my other bike, but I mainly bought it because it was something I had always wanted, and managed to scoop it up for 400 bucks with no title. I'm not super concerned about not having a title, however; I'll get that taken care of.

The CB750 is my second motorcycle. The other I bought from a friend for $200 barely running when I decided that I would like to work on/modify motorcycles as a hobby (in addition to riding them on the street as opposed to the dirt).

This was the day I brought home the 1982 Yamaha XJ750 Maxim:



And this is as it sits now. Pardon the Honda Emblems, I was feeling those out as I wait for some Yamaha ones to be delivered that will fit the CB400 tank's mounting points:



It's nowhere near done either, but I wanted to get it reliable and rideable for the summer before I began working on this. One bike not running is bad enough, let alone two. I have a build thread over at XJBikes.com if anyone's interested (Same username). They were a huge help, as I had never wrenched on a thing in my life before last September.

So, back to the CB. I picked it up from Craigslist after seeing the ad listing it for $550 when I called a guy who had posted it about four hours earlier. He said he already had a guy coming to look at it, and so I made him an offer for $400 and said I'd grab a truck and be there much earlier then him. I ran the VIN very quickly, and the deal was done. The guy I bought it from was a super nice young guy with a kid on the way and one too many projects. He knew what he was doing with his cars, so I was happy to buy it from him and take his word (he was very helpful with helping me start the title process months later). The story was that he bought it from a guy who wanted to cafe it, and chopped the wiring harness/threw some drag bars on it; that was it. Apparently it had been sitting for a while, but we weren't sure exactly how long. This was in November of '14 the day I brought it home.




Included in my $400 CB750 purchase was a CB400 Hawk Tank, Side Covers, Comstars, Engine, Front End, and some other odds and ends. It also came with a brand new Mac 4-1/Silencer and a set of new tires, so I'd say I made out (it was missing the stock mufflers and I would have changed them anyway).

For the bike, I plan on keeping the original paint/tank the same, and for this one I will not be doing an open frame concept; I'll be keeping the sidecovers in tact since they are not cracked and all mounting points are there.

That said, When I was cutting the frame on my XJ preparing to weld an upswept hoop in place, I cut the frame on the CB as well to begin to visualize how short I wanted it. Sorry to the purists, but that's the way I like it.

I took all of the surface rust off of the wheels/rear shocks over the winter, then painted them with Rustoleum Appliance epoxy, followed by Spraymax2k after a week of letting that Epoxy gas out. Other than that, the bike sat dormant until two weeks ago. Once my buddies and I (luckily they're big, because I'm not) pushed it up 12 steps out of my basement using a rudimentary but solid ramp, I began to do what I needed to do to get it running. I started by cleaning the carbs. That said, I did not break the rack, or even take the tops off. I simply took the bowls/jets off and cleaned the visible passages/jets.

Then I rewired using this diagram:



The PPO had done some messing around with the starter solenoid and starter key so everything I did was not exactly as shown above, but it did work once I got some things figured out. This winter I'll do a full on rewire with some more colors for clarity, but again, I'm just trying to get it running well first. Even so, I went ahead and used the crimp connectors/waterproof casings from Vintage Connections. Frankly, I don't know why anyone would rewire without these, They're truly excellent. The ratchet crimper does a hell of a job.

This picture shows the new wires mixed in with the old. I still need to wire in a horn, blinkers, taillight, speedo, starter button, etc, but that's no problem.





I threw some atf/acetone into the engine through the valve cover ports (bear with me while I learn the proper terminology, folks) for a couple of days, then drained the oil and filled it back up with some of this Valvoline and a new filter.


I actually picked up a couple of the FramCH6009 filters from Advanced Auto for around 5 dollars, and from what I've read, they work fine.

So at this point, I'm ready to start the bike. The plan was to have it kick only, because why the heck not. As I'm going through the wiring diagram I notice the starter motor is wired in there and I think to myself "why would that be in there if it's minimally wired? Could it be that the key switch in the diagram is actually an automotive style ignition? Oh well, lets hope it starts. (If anyone could answer that, I'd appreciate it, but it's something that's been bugging me).

So after putting the key in the ignition and turning it on, I have a headlight, which is a good sign. I kick a few times with nothing, and forget that I didn't use any choke. Three kicks later, and we have a runner!

Now, I had no filters on the bike so I didn't want to run it for more than about 30 seconds, but it Idled very well at first. 20 seconds in I noticed some smoke (was dark, didn't see exactly from where, could have been numerous things), but I thought that might be natural for an engine sitting, or from the coating of the exhaust.

About 25 seconds in the revs started picking up, so I shut it off. I'm sure I'll need a carb sync and it couldn't hurt to soak the intake rubbers in some wintergreen oil, either.

One thing I'd like to note is that there was a ticking noise, maybe up near the valves. I can only assume I'll need to adjust those as well, so hopefully that's the cause.

The next evening I put together a quick seatpan from fiberglass that I'll foam and upholster to use for the remainder of the season. It's not at all permanent or great looking (and actually needs a bit more trimming to sit right on the frame), but it took all of an hour of work time to make, and will be completely covered by vinyl so I'm not too concerned.

Anyway, here's where we're at as of 5 minutes ago:





The real fun starts now! While I will be going through the manual and using the search function before asking questions, I was wondering if anyone had a basic maintenance FAQ stickied somewhere; basically something that would explain how to get the bike tuned properly when purchased in less than ideal condition, and also things to look out for/check.

Appreciate it!

Time to read that manual.


1973 CB750

Offline mrbreeze

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2015, 11:13:02 pm »
Welcome to SOHC4. Looks like a decent bike at a good price. Its a plus just having good paint on a good tank and tins. I would be concerned with the ticking noise being that its new to you but the revving up thing is probably like you said....carbs need synch. I'd get a pressure gauge on it and make sure it has good pressure and pull a tappet cap or 2 and visually look for oil getting to the top end. No sense in burning it down before you get to ride it! You came to the right place for all things SOHC. Enjoy!!
« Last Edit: July 27, 2015, 11:26:55 pm by mrbreeze »
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Offline SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2015, 11:22:10 pm »
Great deal on the bike and parts.
1975 CB550K1 "Blue" Stockish Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=135005.0)
1975 CB550F1 frame/CB650 engine hybrid "The Hot Mess" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,150220.0.html)
2008 Triumph Thruxton (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,190956.0.html)
2014 MV Agusta Brutale Dragster 800
2015 Yamaha FZ-09 (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,186861.0.html)

"There are some things nobody needs in this world, and a bright-red, hunch-back, warp-speed 900cc cafe racer is one of them — but I want one anyway, and on some days I actually believe I need one.... Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba." Hunter S. Thompson, Song of the Sausage Creature, Cycle World, March 1995.  (http://www.latexnet.org/~csmith/sausage.html and https://magazine.cycleworld.com/article/1995/3/1/song-of-the-sausage-creature)

Sold/Emeritus
1973 CB750K2 "Bionic Mongrel" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132734.0) - Sold
1977 CB750K7 "Nine Lives" Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=50490.0) - Sold
2005 RVT1000RR RC51-SP2 "El Diablo" - Sold
2016+ Triumph Thruxton 1200 R (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,170198.0.html) - Sold

Offline BrosefStalin

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2015, 11:24:43 am »
Thanks folks.

A couple of weeks ago I adjusted the valves and tightened the cam chain (primary chain? below the carbs). I also installed the pods, new throttle cable and assembly, as well as mounted the muffler (temporarily, as I don't like how it looks). Last night I picked up a dedicated battery for the bike and threw it on the charger to prepare it for starting tonight!
« Last Edit: September 09, 2015, 08:11:53 pm by BrosefStalin »
1973 CB750

Offline SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2015, 11:39:47 am »
Thanks folks.

A couple of weeks ago I adjusted the valves and tightened the cam chain. I also installed the pods, new throttle cable and assembly, as well as mounted the muffler (temporarily, as I don't like how it looks). Last night I picked up a dedicated battery for the bike and threw it on the charger to prepare it for starting tonight!

Did the adjustment to the cam chain eliminate the tick sound?
1975 CB550K1 "Blue" Stockish Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=135005.0)
1975 CB550F1 frame/CB650 engine hybrid "The Hot Mess" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,150220.0.html)
2008 Triumph Thruxton (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,190956.0.html)
2014 MV Agusta Brutale Dragster 800
2015 Yamaha FZ-09 (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,186861.0.html)

"There are some things nobody needs in this world, and a bright-red, hunch-back, warp-speed 900cc cafe racer is one of them — but I want one anyway, and on some days I actually believe I need one.... Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba." Hunter S. Thompson, Song of the Sausage Creature, Cycle World, March 1995.  (http://www.latexnet.org/~csmith/sausage.html and https://magazine.cycleworld.com/article/1995/3/1/song-of-the-sausage-creature)

Sold/Emeritus
1973 CB750K2 "Bionic Mongrel" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132734.0) - Sold
1977 CB750K7 "Nine Lives" Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=50490.0) - Sold
2005 RVT1000RR RC51-SP2 "El Diablo" - Sold
2016+ Triumph Thruxton 1200 R (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,170198.0.html) - Sold

Offline BrosefStalin

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #5 on: September 09, 2015, 07:11:49 pm »
Alright guys, just got it started again, so here we go:

First and foremost, it certainly took about five three second bursts from the starter button to get it started, but it did. I'm going to explain the below as though you're sitting on the bike, and the cylinders are, from left to right: 1,2,3,4. I do not know if this is correct, I am assuming this because of how my Yamaha was, but I feel as though I have read elsewhere that the CB750k doesn't work that way.

When the bike started, it idled really well but after about 18 seconds it started smoking from up front and down low. Immediately I figured it would have been unburnt muck and oil/fluids that have collected, but then I thought, should it be burning that quickly? I felt the exhaust headers and from left to right, 1 and 3 were cold, but 2 and 4 were actually pretty hot. Too hot to touch for more than a second. So this is about 40 seconds of running when I realized it was hot. It sounded decent to good to me, and revved when prompted, but I've never heard a CB750, stock or otherwise run before, so I didn't notice through sound that I was only running on two cylinders.

CB750 cafe racer fan: I believe the chain adjustment and valve adjustment helped, but I still feel as if there is a minor tick. That said, I haven't synced the carbs yet, which I understand might cause a tick.

BUT

I think first, I need to address the two problems listed above: 1: Is the exhaust/engine getting too hot, too quickly?

And 2: Why am I only running on two cylinders?

Now I'd like to remind everyone that I could be wrong about how I'm listing the cylinders, but again, sitting on the bike, from left to right, 1,2,3,4.

So I did the best I could to troubleshoot problem 1 for you guys. I let the engine get cold, and then took off the 3rd and 4th Exhaust Tappet covers off, because I was told that when running, I should look for oil "spraying out" to ensure that oil was getting to the top end.

I also took off the oil tank cover/dipstick and had a friend standing there to observe anything that may (or may not) happen when I start and idle the bike.

Side note: After I started it the first time and we took the dipstick out before we observed the second time starting, there were lots of microbubbles randomly floating about, so I took this pic before I started it the second time.



Now back to the other part of the diagnosis: part 2:

After starting it up the second time, my friend said that aside from vibration, he didn't see a lot of movement in the tank, and that when I shut it off he did see some larger bubbles visibly move up from the depths for a second or two.

This is paired with this:

As for the oil spraying out of the exhaust valve tappets, well, it didn't; there was no spray. But when I shut the engine down after the second fireup, I noticed that this part of the inside of the top end in between the tappets did have a steady pool of oil slowly sliding down it, if that makes any sense. Where oil was very obviously running down after shutoff is surrounded in red below:



I've also included a video that I really hope helps put all of this into perspective. Please excuse the fact that I haven't begun to button up and sheath any of the wiring. I'll get there when I know for a fact that it's proper.


So what do you guys think? I'm most concerned about the heat at the moment, but am open to suggestions.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE:

Could the reason that 1 and 3 aren't running, and that 2 and 4 are, be that I have the spark plug wires hooked up incorrectly?

I'm not sure that the PO marked the wires correctly, so here is how they are set up at the moment:

Again, sitting on the bike, from left to right, the cylinders are 1,2,3,4, and the coils are 1 and 2.

I have, from the left coil (coil 1), the left most plug wire hooked up to cylinder 3. The right side plug wire on left coil (1) is hooked up to cylinder 4.

From the right coil (coil 2) I have the left most plug wire going to cylinder 1, and the right most plug wire to cylinder 2.

Is this correct as far as the plug wires go?

If so, could anyone offer some insight? I'm sorry for the super long post but I wanted to be as clear as possible being that I'm not sure if i have my cylinder numbers correct.

Also, am I going to be better off asking these questions in separate posts in their respective forums? Because I don't want to cloud a build post up with technical questions if that's not the proper etiquette here.

Thanks so much for the help guys. Here's how the bike sits now after I threw together a quick upholstery job for the first time (in case I actually do get to ride it before i put it away, I'll do something permanent later this winter, engine health provided). Just used some closed cell foam the upholsterer gave me, and some marine grade vinyl with hot glue since the pan is fiberglass. Lastly, I took apart the speedo/tach setup and fabbed a bracket for just the speedo. I've left the tach cable in place for carb syncing. Lastly, I lost the stock headlight ears for smaller ones, used the CB400 headlight, and added some sidecover decals. Just waiting on the clip ons and rear sets. and that's all for aesthetics until I get it running right.

« Last Edit: September 09, 2015, 09:06:30 pm by BrosefStalin »
1973 CB750

Offline mrbreeze

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #6 on: September 09, 2015, 08:11:38 pm »
You have your wires crossed. The coil with the longer wires should feed both outer cylinders (1&4). Your numbering is right. 1 thru 4 left to right when sitting on the bike. The other coil powers the middle cylinders (2&3).
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Offline mrbreeze

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #7 on: September 09, 2015, 08:23:23 pm »
The smoke is from your pucks leaking. I can see the oil in between the head & cylinders in one of your pics. After you sort out the plug wires and it starts running right put a fan on the engine if you let it sit there and run for more than a couple of minutes. It is an air cooled engine. How did you go about adjusting the valves and timing chain? Hopefully you read the instructions out of a repair manual that is for a Honda 750. After all of  the 3000 mile tune up chores have been addressed you finish off with a vacuum synch of the carbs (if they are thoroughly cleaned of course!). If the engine has good compression and you do these things it should run great! Other things to check....fresh gas, clean tank, clean fuel strainer/filter, and clean air filter.
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Offline mrbreeze

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #8 on: September 09, 2015, 08:27:50 pm »
Just noticed you're running pod filters. That complicates things unless the PO properly jetted and set up the carbs. If you still have problems after getting it on the road there are plenty of threads here that will guide you through. The search function is your friend!
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Offline BrosefStalin

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #9 on: September 09, 2015, 09:05:59 pm »
Thanks for the responses guys. To answer all of your questions:

Mr Breeze: Doh, such a simple thing that I missed, thanks. I was prepared to bring out the multimeter and I'm glad that can wait for another day.

Pardon my ignoarance, but what exactly are my "pucks?"

I do have a large exhaust fan that I've always run on my other bike when messing with it in a stationary position, but I didn't have it because I didn't run the CB for longer then that video.

I did follow the manual and several how to's found around the internet to do the valve adjustment. I guess a good question is, is the CB750 Maintenance service repair manual going to be less helpful than the Shop manual? Because i've only got the service repair manual.

Anyway, My other bike had valve shims that I changed properly so I'm sure the clearances were good, but I'll certainly go back and do it over just in case.

Carbs: Took the Main jets up to 120 (the jets in the carbs were 110) so I'm starting this way. I managed to get the CV carbs on my other bike running like a top, so Im confident I can sort any carb issues. Again, I have to adjust the carbs, but I'm wanting to make sure the smoke and 1/2 of the cylinders get sorted out first.

Thanks again.
1973 CB750

Offline mrbreeze

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #10 on: September 09, 2015, 10:16:33 pm »
Sounds like you can tackle the work. I was just curious because there are steps to take when adjusting valves and the cam chain. If you can handle doing the shim type I think you have a grasp on it. The pucks are under the camshaft towers which are usually the culprit when the oil starts appearing between the head & cylinders. Unfortunately the engine has to come out of the frame for access unless you do a frame kit. There are many threads about it here. I have to do mine now also. I've never done them on my K5 with 28K on the clock. you have to figure after 40 years that some gaskets & seals are gonna go south. My bike still runs strong and I don't have the cash for a complete top end job so I'm just gonna change the pucks for now. Most people would do the whole top end being that they're already in there. So let us know how she runs with the plug wires sorted out.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2015, 07:00:35 pm by mrbreeze »
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Offline BrosefStalin

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #11 on: September 10, 2015, 10:39:00 am »
With the help you of you guys I'm certain I can! Yes, I did follow all of the steps on the chain and the valves, but it can't hurt to go back through to make sure everything stayed put.

I'll definitely be waiting until nov 1st when I put the bikes away to pull the motor, no time at the moment, and I'd like to diagnose any other potential problems before it goes away; no sense in spending the winter on a bike that may not be worth it.

Thanks for the tips on the pucks, I found this thread and it looks great: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,107040.0.html

Hopefully it can help someone else.

Tonight I'll be swapping plug wires and checking out what's going on. In the meantime, is the fact that the engine/headers heat up enough to burn smoke within 45 seconds something I should be concerned about?

Have a nice day, yall.
« Last Edit: September 10, 2015, 03:31:03 pm by BrosefStalin »
1973 CB750

Offline BrosefStalin

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #12 on: September 21, 2015, 10:38:50 am »
Alrighty, here goes.

As Mr. Breeze suggested, my plug wires were indeed wired wrong. The PO had them labeled incorrectly, and also had the wrong sized caps on each one, further complicating things.

Now the bike starts on the first or second kick cold (though I do have a starter, I prefer not to use it if I don't have to).

It idles quite fine, but there is still an odd knock up front, which I know now is not due to the valve tappets or cam chain.

My thoughts are either poor gaskets in between the header and exhaust ports, or out of sync carbs. I'll be doing the trusty tissue in front of the port test to see if it's actually the exhaust. Here's a quick vid of the sound.


Everything else seems to be good as long as it's charging properly. Regardless of how it seems to run, I'll have to take it through the gears and see how I did with the re-jet, but first I'm going to sync/balance the carbs when I figure out the best way/tools to do so.

 I put new tires on the bike last week and added some clip on bars. I also made the mount for my speedo, and lowered it to sit in line with the tank/bars/light. The exhaust mount is super temporary until I can find a slip on (that looks good) with a 2 1/12 inch inlet to fit on that Mac 4-1 header.

Dirty dirty bike pic:



Suggestions/Comments/Criticism welcomed.




I'll be pulling the motor this winter and cleaning it, replacing what needs done, etc, but for now I'm finished doing any visual modifications on the bike until it goes away for the winter.

1973 CB750

Offline seanbarney41

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #13 on: September 21, 2015, 07:11:15 pm »
That sounds pretty bad.  Make goddang sure your exhaust is well sealed at the cylinder head ports via new copper crush gaskets.  If it still sounds like that after new exhaust gaskets, you got a very destructive engine problem...not enough oil is getting to the camshaft/valvetrain.  Every second you run the engine with this condition is destroying your cam lobes/bearings, cam towers and rockers.  You have already demonstrated that oil is not splashing out of the exhaust tappet covers while running, like it should.
     Fortunately, this may not be that difficult or expensive to fix.  First, you have to pull the engine, which is just a lot of unhooking and un-bolting, and some seriously heavy lifting.  The engine weighs close to 200 lbs.  You will need a valve cover gasket, 6 cam tower seals (or pucks), and 4 oil passage o-rings and a torque wrench capable of accuracy from 6-20 ft. lbs./72-240 in. lbs.  Buy all seals, gaskets, o-rings Honda OEM!  The ones you need are sill available.

     Remove valve cover, remove cam and rockers, remove cam towers...under the ends of the cam towers you may find 4 6x2mm o-rings.  Caution!, sometimes when you remove the cam towers these o-rings will sick to the bottom instead of staying in the head.  If any of these o-rings are damaged or missing you have found your problem.  Inside the inside 2 o-rings should be found what is commonly known as an oil jet.  These are a restrictor used to build oil pressure for the bottom end.  They have tiny orifices that often become plugged in engines that have been abused, infrequent oil changes, or engines that have sat for a while.  Pull these out and thoroughly clean them.  Also just for extra insurance, remove the oil galley cap above the points cover.  Spray cleaner down both passages and you should be able to see it come out in the oil galley with a flashlight.  Re-torque the cylinder head while you have access.  Carefully, inspect cam bearings and lobes, rockers, cam journals etc.  If you get some decent picks, guys here can tell you if parts are still useable.  Good used parts are plentiful and relatively inexpensive here and on ebay, but ideally, the entire valve train should be replaced as a set, or as many wear matched parts together as is practical.   Put everything back together according to the manual replacing the seals, gaskets mentioned above.  I have done all this in a saturday and sunday afternoon session before, but have considerable experience with these bikes.

You should probably drop the oil pan too...clean the pan out, clean the pick up screen, and r and r the oil pump, although, I have never seen a bad oil pump or a lack of oil pressure or volume out of about 12 750's worked on.  I don't know if you can really tell much about oil pump operation from looking in the tank.  I would use a known oil pressure gauge on the oil galley cap as the stock warning light sender has been known to become innaccurate, but gauges and adapters are expensive if you don't already have something.  If the oil pressure light is on when you turn the key on and goes out within 5 or 10 seconds of starting the bike, you probably have more than adequate oil pressure.
If it works good, it looks good...

Offline BrosefStalin

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #14 on: September 23, 2015, 08:02:49 am »
Wow, thanks for the detailed response.

Yes, it does sound very bad. I have ordered the copper crush gaskets already and hope to have them by friday.

I have fully rewired the bike to my needs (very minimal) so there are no more warning/idiot lights. That said, the oil pressure gauge seems like a very worthy investment despite the price.

From what I've seen, None of the gauges come with the fitting necessary to put it into threads where the oil galley cap once screwed in. Is this correct?

Everything I'm reading says that I will have to take out the galley cap, then drill and tap it myself. I don't have a problem doing this, but if there's a simple plug and play solution, I'm all ears. If not, whose got the best write up on materials needed? Thanks!
1973 CB750

Offline 70CB750

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #15 on: September 23, 2015, 08:08:37 am »
Joker machine makes a plug and play solution.

The plug thread is M20x1.5 and there is an o-ring to seal - if you feel like making your own oil pressure gauge adapter.

But lot of people just tap the plug and call it a day, the oil gauge usually has 1/8" NPT thread.

Offline 70CB750

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #16 on: September 23, 2015, 08:09:33 am »

Offline BrosefStalin

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #17 on: September 23, 2015, 08:35:06 pm »
I had my eye on that one! Was hoping there might be a cheaper, black alternative but if it saves time and is plug and play...ill take it, especially since I have no other way to diagnose.
Thanks.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2015, 08:50:58 pm by BrosefStalin »
1973 CB750

Offline seanbarney41

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #18 on: September 23, 2015, 08:43:33 pm »
It really would not be difficult to temporarily re-install some kind of oil pressure indicator light...got a 12volt test lamp?
If it works good, it looks good...

Offline BrosefStalin

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #19 on: September 29, 2015, 06:57:03 pm »
Sean,

I do, but I've decided to order the joker machine gauge, which should be here by Saturday. I'm also looking at an oil cap temperature gauge, but at the moment I can only find them in Celcius from Japan. If I can't find one in Farenheit I'll order it, but If anyone has a good source it would be appreciated. This is the only type I can find for a cb750 sohc:



On to the good news: I installed the new exhaust copper crush gaskets and it killed the noise. That said, I haven't put it under load around the block yet, as Pittsburgh is currently going through a two day downpour, and I'm going to wait until I get the oil pressure gauge to start it again.

I started it and ran it for about 5 seconds before I took this video. Note that the noise is gone, and that there's some smoke coming out of the exhaust, hence the hesitations with the rev. It also looks like I have a hanging idle so off come the carbs if I can't adjust it.



Sounds better...but doesn't sound "good" either. For the record, the bike has 17,663 miles on it.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2015, 07:06:24 pm by BrosefStalin »
1973 CB750

Offline seanbarney41

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #20 on: September 29, 2015, 07:43:02 pm »
that sounds much better...you have upgraded from the sound of valve train destruction to the sound of a poorly tuned cb750 :).  I would still be worried about oil not splashing out of the tappet covers while running.  Remember, even if there is oil pressure, oil still may not be getting to the valve train in sufficient quantities.
If it works good, it looks good...

Offline 70CB750

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #21 on: September 30, 2015, 03:43:26 am »
that sounds much better...you have upgraded from the sound of valve train destruction to the sound of a poorly tuned cb750 :)

 ;D

The oil definitelly needs checking, I still remember how the K0 created a puddle in very short time first time I tried to see oil splashing, amazing how fast that little oil jet can push oil up.

Offline BrosefStalin

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #22 on: September 30, 2015, 11:13:24 am »
Gotcha, I think.

So I can still have sufficient oil pressure according to the galley plug mounted oil pressure gauge, but not have sufficient amounts of oil getting to the valve tappets?

Could I have done something wrong when I changed the oil? Possibly not priming the bike properly? I'm new to this kind of setup.

Also, you guys are saying that oil should realllly be flying out of these open valve tappets? For instance, if I were to stick my hand an inch or two away from the opening I should be getting oil all over my hands?

Maybe I'll take another quick video during daylight...after I get that pressure gauge installed of course.

Thanks in advance for the help folks.
1973 CB750

Offline seanbarney41

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #23 on: September 30, 2015, 01:13:33 pm »
It's just that it is quite common for these oil jets to get plugged, and the results are catastrophic.  Low oil pressure is rarely a concern with the cb750 though...
....so what I do with a suspect 750 is loosen an exhaust valve tappet cover so it is just hangin on a thread or two, start the bike and run it for a minute or so to make sure full flow has reached the camshaft, remove cap to see how much oil splashes out, if you have to slam it back on to stop the splatter you know you are good, if you have time to peek into the hole and look around without getting a faceful you likely have problems.  Check both sides as there is two seperate oil feeds to the two cam towers.
If it works good, it looks good...

Offline BrosefStalin

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Re: CB750K3 pickup.
« Reply #24 on: September 30, 2015, 02:19:11 pm »
Killer advice! That makes much more sense, because the video I posted of the open tappet covers was after only a very short period of running, and the covers were off before I started the bike.

Regardless, I don't expect my gauge to be in until Saturday so I'm going to wait to do any starting of the bike til then.

Thanks again.
1973 CB750