Topic: Frame and engine painting

[CBGBs]

Frame:
I have found that the frame will look decent with a couple coats of black enamel if the frame is primed well. The paint  will chip a little on the lower front and fuel may wrinkle contact areas so be carefull, but the price can't be beat. I used a rust converting primer on the frame. It sprays on clear and then turnes a translucent black. This seems to be a very strong holding primer.

Engine cases:
I have read in the Bill Silvers CB77 restoration guide, that Honda uses a high temp lacquer on the cases. Other types of paints won't adhere well to this and must be removed before repainting. PJ1 has an epoxy Satin Silver engine case cover paint that is recommended.
Oh yeah. NO SANDBLASTING!!! It may be too late for me, but there is still time for you. Blast with a softer media like walnut shells or plastic beads. The sand at high pressure will give the aluminum a coarse texture.

[cafehonda]

On a performance engine, blast with Carborundum. It leaves a rough surface with about twice the surface area. In an air/ oil cooled engine it makes a big difference. It will run 20 to 30 degrees cooler, oil temp that is. It don't look pretty though, but if you go fast enough no one will notice.

[CBGBs]

I've used the recommended PJ1 paint and found that the color is not close. It is a very shiny metallic silver and goes on well and seems durable, but it is much brighter than original and I haven't been able to get a very smooth glassy surface like Honda. There is no priming necessary. I've since seen a site that claimed a match but the paint was $30 for a large can.

[Helo229]

Just looking through for some frame stripping tips and stumbled on this one - don't mean to kick a dead dog as old a post as it is..

Anyways, I sandblasted the engine on my 750F to hell and back, and I gotta say it worked great. If you're going to prime/paint it, I would recommend using sand due to the coarse surface it leaves. I just finished my case this weekend, during the unusually warm days we had this winter I'd put a coat on here and a coat on there, normally 2-3 weeks apart. After the second coat of primer (yes, I put down 2 coats), I was left with a relatively smooth surface, and after the first finish coat it was smooth as silk, like a new car.

[BobbyR]

I've used the recommended PJ1 paint and found that the color is not close. It is a very shiny metallic silver and goes on well and seems durable, but it is much brighter than original and I haven't been able to get a very smooth glassy surface like Honda. There is no priming necessary. I've since seen a site that claimed a match but the paint was $30 for a large can.

I painted my engine minus the barrels with a high temp Aluminum enamel. It was a bit bright at first, but after a year it darkened up a bit and looks more normal. Not perfect, but it is less lurid.