Topic: Tapered Steering Bearings Thread

[grcamna2]

Made in China can be printed on good quality bearings too

You can order here. CB750 but fit other bikes too.
https://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB750K6-FOUR-1976/part_105462/


I bought my kit from Sweden, same as sold on Davidsilver and eBay Germany.
Name on package:  SSH750
Another seller has JMT435.
It seems to be shipping issues to USA on those sites
I plan to order soon.

I remember always(25 years ago)ordering 'Parts Plus' tapered roller bearing kits in the light green box,Made in Japan quality using the SSH_ _ _number designation.I've installed a fair number of these kits.
I like them better than All Balls.

I have still been able to find these Parts Plus tapered steering bearing kits NOS occasionally on Ebay,etc.

[willbird]

Made in China can be printed on good quality bearings too

You can order here. CB750 but fit other bikes too.
https://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB750K6-FOUR-1976/part_105462/


I bought my kit from Sweden, same as sold on Davidsilver and eBay Germany.
Name on package:  SSH750
Another seller has JMT435.
It seems to be shipping issues to USA on those sites
I plan to order soon.

I remember always(25 years ago)ordering 'Parts Plus' tapered roller bearing kits in the light green box,Made in Japan quality using the SSH_ _ _number designation.I've installed a fair number of these kits.
I like them better than All Balls.

I have still been able to find these Parts Plus tapered steering bearing kits NOS occasionally on Ebay,etc.

I just grabbed a set of those :-), I bet that is what I used in the 1990's on my K2.

Bill

[seanbarney41]

Also note that Yamiya sells a very nice kit that includes the one correct lower spacer and a top bearing that fits the serrated casting inside the threaded adjuster nut.  The bearing boxes have no manufacturer name in english alphabet, so no idea on bearing quality. They seemed fine.  I used it on a K4 with stock fork ears and everything just fits up nice as can be, no questions, no fiddling.

[Stev-o]

Also note that Yamiya sells a very nice kit that includes the one correct lower spacer and a top bearing that fits the serrated casting inside the threaded adjuster nut. 

Good to know, Sean.  Adding a link to help others in the future...

https://www.yamiya750.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=246_251_144_78&products_id=3778

[The Lone Builder]

I’m rebuilding my front end – 75K2 – after my little spill a few weeks ago and recounted elsewhere.

This required a new steering stem, kindly donated by Hondaman, along with a set of tapered steering bearings he had had for a while.

Unfortunately the lower bearing was damaged or poorly made; in any case not serviceable, so I had to order another set.

Reading through this post and Scottly’s post, I checked out the thickness of the spacers I have. Scottly says his measured: 0.115” and 0.183” with the shim of the seal being 0.025”

The washers in my 2 ½ kits (only one washer from the set I took out) measure:
0.202” and 0.177” – Hondaman’s
0,174” and 0,155” – Bought
0,000” and 0,151” – In-place

So using the 0,155” spacer and the seal gave me a total of 0,180”

Putting the bottom bearing onto the stem was a real mission, even after leaving the stem in the freezer for half a day; it took some seriously heavy tapping to get it to seat.

Now with the top bridge on and forks in place, there is a gap of about 0,1” between the rubber at the top of the fork ears and the bridge.

Short of removing everything and using a thinner washer or cranking down the bearing cap to see if I can pul everything up, I don’t know what else I can do. As neither option is overly attractive, I’m planning to leave it as is. Thoughts?

[scottly]

Which kits are you using, and which upper bearing are you using? The upper bearing from the all-balls kit requires a .078" washer to clear the nubs on the bottom of the nut, and the seal (which wasn't used stock) adds another .025" which adds up to .103".

[PeWe]

My CB750 K2-75 got same gap, a few mm over ears.

I added a rubber washer I made to fill the gap.
Vulc rubber tape. No problem.

[The Lone Builder]

Which kits are you using, and which upper bearing are you using? The upper bearing from the all-balls kit requires a .078" washer to clear the nubs on the bottom of the nut, and the seal (which wasn't used stock) adds another .025" which adds up to .103".

All All
Balls kits, at least the “original” and the new ones. MArk said the ones he sent me w ere All Balls too.

I didn’t use ann upper washer as there wouldn’t have been any threads showing then. Didn’t have one in before either.

[scottly]

I didn’t use ann upper washer as there wouldn’t have been any threads showing then. Didn’t have one in before either.

Is there a gap between the lower triple and the frame?

[The Lone Builder]

Nope.

As Per says, it’s not something that is critical, so I’ll live with it.

[PeWe]

This has been up before in this thread.
I read about it when I installed mine late 2018.

[Alan F.]

I’m rebuilding my front end – 75K2...

Now with the top bridge on and forks in place, there is a gap of about 0,1” between the rubber at the top of the fork ears and the bridge.

Short of removing everything and using a thinner washer or cranking down the bearing cap to see if I can pul everything up, I don’t know what else I can do. As neither option is overly attractive, I’m planning to leave it as is. Thoughts?

I think I'd just throw an o-ring on top of each fork ear rubber to take up the space and forget about it if everything works smoothly enough.

[CycleRanger]

I’m rebuilding my front end – 75K2...

Now with the top bridge on and forks in place, there is a gap of about 0,1” between the rubber at the top of the fork ears and the bridge.

Short of removing everything and using a thinner washer or cranking down the bearing cap to see if I can pul everything up, I don’t know what else I can do. As neither option is overly attractive, I’m planning to leave it as is. Thoughts?

I think I'd just throw an o-ring on top of each fork ear rubber to take up the space and forget about it if everything works smoothly enough.

I used some large rubber washers I found in the plumbing section at the hardware store.