Author Topic: Good Lord where do I start? CB750... ish (Read 20853 times)

Stev-o · « **Reply #75 on:** March 12, 2016, 03:19:35 PM »

Quote from: Killman on March 12, 2016, 03:08:56 PM

I'm aware

Yup, used but rebuildable if needed, and the price was right. Kinda cool to have actual Koni's, not Ikons. They need some minor scratches buffed out around the mounts, but I can live with that.

Member old hat had a set he wanted to rebuild but had an issue sourcing the parts.
I have an old set as well, not sure what I will do with them?

Killman · « **Reply #76 on:** March 12, 2016, 04:34:39 PM »

Well that's not good to hear. I was under the impression that Ikon had compatible parts.

Killman · « **Reply #77 on:** March 15, 2016, 04:49:03 AM »

Well, got some good news. Been exchanging emails and phone calls with the Chief Engineer and the US distributor for Ikon. They do indeed have parts for the Koni 7610's.

They are being most helpful regarding information and advice regarding my application and mods to the shocks, down to hints on how to fab up my own tools. Some of the best customer service I've ever had. Especially seeing as how I'm asking them questions about the previous iteration of the product. They flat out told me that there was no reason to buy new ones as the old ones can be refurbished to suit.

Got my last package from Hondaman after one of the neighbours across the street fished it out of their yard where the postman had apparently dropped it. Hope that was the only thing he lost. Ordered in a Koso gauge from Amazon the other day as well.

Looking like the two bugbears on this build will be getting the front end and overall suspension where I want it. Have done a lot of research, asked a lot of questions from some very knowledgeable folks, and have made some plans. Should be an interesting process. Actually pretty excited to see it all come together. I'm aiming to have this project "finished" by May 1st. Don't see how that's humanly possible, but I'm going to give it a shot anyways.

754 · « **Reply #78 on:** March 15, 2016, 09:22:19 AM »

Are your shocks finned at the bottom.. We got a set of finned Konis that need seals.. Wolfgang in Nakusp may have parts, I will contact him in the next few days..

Killman · « **Reply #79 on:** March 15, 2016, 09:50:54 AM »

This is what they look like 361 mm, Koni 7610-1413's:

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #80 on:** March 15, 2016, 10:51:13 AM »

Those are in decent shape.

Killman · « **Reply #81 on:** March 16, 2016, 01:43:00 PM »

Yeah, I'm hoping they'll do the trick

Well, enough bits should have arrived by the end of next week to let me start making some pretty quick progress, (knock on wood) which means it's time to start scouting places to do some powder coating and lay down some rootbeer flake on the tank and headlight bucket.

I talked to one local shop and the color choices that they directed me to online were pretty crappy. Saw a recommendation for another outfit here in town on FB, but when I checked out their page, the pics were for #$%* and they could barely string together a proper sentence. I don't need an English major, but I'm not about to trust somebody with my parts and a bunch of my money if they can't use words of up to five letters without sounding like they've taken a recent head injury. If you're too lazy or incompetent to spellcheck on a business listing, I'm sure not going to have faith in your attention span or ability to perform decent prep and paint. The pictures that some folks choose to represent their businesses make me just shake my head, too. They should at least make sure that the work looks good in the photos.

I'm not looking for anything crazy, a straight rootbeer flake on two pieces for paint. For the powdercoat I'd like to find someone that can shoot some of the Prismatic Powders line: http://www.prismaticpowders.com/Canada/?gclid=Cj0KEQjw5Z63BRCLqqLtpc6dk7gBEiQA0OuhsGFrRwPzZPgBUHid5RAa835e_dl-bwZVETdE6L1r0nUaAmnT8P8HAQ

If anyone has a line on a good shop in or near Victoria BC, I'd appreciate it. I'm willing to travel, or ship, within reason for a good job. So within the Lower Mainland or on Vancouver Island will do in a pinch. I did see some posts on FB by an outfit in Nanaimo, that had recently reproduced a stock orange paint scheme for a vintage CB750, so I'll be trying to look them up if I can track down their contact info.

Life's about to get fun again, here comes the wrenching!

Stev-o · « **Reply #82 on:** March 16, 2016, 02:52:55 PM »

Are you using an aftermarket headlight bucket?

I just picked up some parts from my powder guy today, nothin like fresh powder!
He quoted me $80 to blast and powder my current project, a K3. He's out in the boonies and the place is a dump, but the quality and price are very good.

Killman · « **Reply #83 on:** March 16, 2016, 03:05:22 PM »

I've got no problem with the boonies. Unfortunately you're in Texas, bit of a trip for me, sounds like you got a great deal though. Throw up some pics!

Far as I know, the headlight bucket is OEM, ordered in a new 35/35W bulb to brighten things up a bit. Hoping that the reflector I've got on a shelf will fit the bucket without too many hassles. I've got enough new parts to throw together a chrome assembly, but I'd rather have this one painted to match the tank. Be cool if I could keep the original lens too, but it looks to be a sealed beam unit and I doubt I could get it apart in a usable fashion.

Stev-o · « **Reply #84 on:** March 16, 2016, 03:49:38 PM »

The OEM bucket is plastic, most coaters wont touch it.

Killman · « **Reply #85 on:** March 16, 2016, 03:51:58 PM »

That's okay, the plan is paint on the tank and bucket. Powder coat for the hubs, (maybe the rims depending how pooched the chrome is) crankcase, jugs, head, frame and some odds and sods.

Killman · « **Reply #86 on:** March 19, 2016, 02:19:22 PM »

Took a closer look at the engine yesterday and it was not an uplifting experience. Busted fins on the jugs, chewed up fins on the other side of the head and the "chrome" is lifting off of the left side engine covers and the cam cover. Looks like some damage at the top of the alternator cover as well.

So I'm going to at least have to replace the whole top end and the alternator cover, as well as the other left side engine cover. If I knew I could get the "chrome" off, cleanly and inexpensively, I'd just polish the other cover. Although I guess that wouldn't match the clutch cover.

Haven't pulled anything apart yet to see what shape the internals are in. Not even sure if it makes sense to try to start it at this point before just tearing everything down. Think it would more or less just be to see if anything unexpected and dramatic happened, to point me in the direction of potential problems that I hadn't noticed yet. Real bummer that the engine is in such gross shape. I was just going to run with the chrome covers when I thought they'd clean up halfway decently, but considering how much money, time and work I'll be putting into the rest of the bike, that engine is going to at least look halfway decent. Rather be spending the money on things like pistons and rings, though.

The kickstart lever has a chunk out of it that's rusting up and the rims are definitely pitted. The swingarm chrome seems to be okay, I'll know better as I clear out more of the grime. I had thought about just roughing up the rims and having them powder coated black to match the hubs, but I'm wondering if it would make more sense to find some aluminum rims instead...

The fork uppers are pitted as well, although it looks to be above the travel area. Might flog them for a few bucks towards having CycleX making me some new longer ones that would take Schrader valves.

Going to make me feel a whole lot better once I start pulling busted bits and giving things some cleaning. I've got quite the collection of parts ready to go and it will seem a lot less futile once I can see some changes happening. Right now though? Yeesh, what a heap.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #87 on:** March 19, 2016, 03:31:08 PM »

You could try vapor blasting those oxidized parts.

754 · « **Reply #88 on:** March 19, 2016, 03:40:40 PM »

If it runs keep using it, you can grab another motor and. Freshen it up while riding..plus the covers will fit on yours..
I am riding a pitted tired heap right now, but it gets a bit nicer everytime I clean, replace or work on it.

Killman · « **Reply #89 on:** March 19, 2016, 03:48:22 PM »

About the only thing I'd think to vapour blast would be the actual engine and it's all busted up.

Aluminum I can just level out and polish, with enough time and work, but once steel and chrome starts to pit it's a question of whether it's worth rechroming or not. With the prices here for chroming, versus the prices of replacement parts, the answer is definitely not. Paint and powder is looking to cost a whack as well. Going to have to see where I stand on things after I get a proper engine together and do a complete mock-up.

The wiring is all hacked and chewed as well, with "spare" pieces literally falling off the bike. Starting to think that a new harness might be in order just to save the time of trying to figure out what's actually functional.

Killman · « **Reply #90 on:** March 20, 2016, 05:46:30 PM »

Awesome day. First day of Spring and a swap meet at the Luxton Fairgrounds. Picked up a replacement set of jugs, (haven't mic'd 'em yet) and a cam cover for the CB. Couple of Clymers for 60-70's Brit twins, brand new looking Giuliari seat for an early 60's to late 70's Sporty and a couple of old chrome Mack Truck bulldog emblems. Got a line on a finned alternator cover as well, that I'll pick up on one of my next trips up-Island.

Not a bad bloody haul!

Killman · « **Reply #91 on:** March 21, 2016, 02:40:39 PM »

Finally wore down the guy I've been trying to buy signals from. Looks like a decent set, should go nicely with the tail light. Got no use for the tail light and bracket coming with the signals, hopefully I can flog or trade 'em for something.

Killman · « **Reply #92 on:** April 09, 2016, 08:06:35 PM »

Looking for some recommendations here. Got my new spokes in and I want to lace and true them myself using a spoke torque wrench. Been reading a lot of mixed reviews on different wrench sets. Can anyone suggest a good spoke torque wrench set that will have the right size head attachment and torque range for this bike?

I know it's not one of the cooler or old school methods, and it may not be necessary to use one, but I want to see if using the spoke torque wrench makes the job as quick and easy as it's claimed to.

Killman · « **Reply #93 on:** April 11, 2016, 08:19:50 AM »

Well for f@ck's sake. Seriously? Nobody seems to make a head for a spoke torque wrench in the right size for these things. Only Excel seems to make one with a low enough torque value. And I can't seem to find the listed size for the nipple flats. They seem to be 3 mm, but I seem to recall they were called a size 8?..

This is starting to get personal. I'm beginning to feel the McGuyver twitch. If anyone wants to share the nipple size with me, to save me more searching through old posts and the books, I'd really appreciate it.

*Edit: Never mind. I just so happened to have an Excel "5.1 mm" Torque head here. It sure isn't. I was pondering just soldering some sort of shim into it, and took some inside calipers to it. Lo and behold, 3 mm! Checked it on the nipple flats, which I had earlier measured to 3 mm, and it fits almost perfectly. Seems snug enough to not strip or mark things up. So Excel kit on the way.

Killman · « **Reply #94 on:** April 22, 2016, 04:35:11 PM »

Just found out that the alloy side cover I wanted to use has been discontinued. Bummer, it would've looked killer with the raw metal front fender.

Guess I'll just have to make my own then!

This is going to be a step up in my fab skills. Up to this point, I've just been cutting and grinding small brackets for random needs. I have about a 1'x3' sheet of brass that came off of an old fire door. Hoping it'll be enough material to make up a pair of side covers and a cluster bracket for the 1.5" Marshall and the Koso.

Got a few friends that are fabricators, machinists and welders. So if I get too stuck I'll hump somebody's leg for help, but I'd like to learn how to do a decent job myself from start to finish. Be a nice skill set to have for future projects. So far the wisdom from on high is to pick up a variable speed jigsaw with a 3/8" metal cutting blade for cutting out the basic pieces. I figure I should be able to file or dremel the sharp edges, polish and then use some fairing-type trim to give them a finished look.I'll either need to buy or beg some time on a break to bend the cluster bracket. Not sure if I'll need a curve in the side covers. If so, I guess I'd need to figure out how to calculate and document the specs on it so that I could take them to someone with an English Wheel?

The side cover that I had originally wanted had an armature from the bottom of the cover to the lowest side cover mounting point on the bike. Thinking it would be cool to use a brake indicator arm or some similar ratched piece from the junk pile.

I'm all ears on this kinda thing. Be pretty easy for me to make a hash of it. At least I have some reference materials to draw on, I've got a bunch of shop manuals on metal working picked up at swap meets, garage sales and book sales that I haven't been able to find the time to read. I guess now's the time.

Killman · « **Reply #95 on:** April 27, 2016, 02:58:59 PM »

Looks like I might have a problem. The drilled rotors that I picked up were supposed to have been resurfaced by a guy that knew his stuff, but they looked like they'd just been worked over with a small sander, so I took them to a local garage to be machined. Garage tells me that they reacted funny on the machine, instead of fine material coming off it started to spool. They only did a mm or so, and I haven't picked them up yet to see the result. Any rotor gurus that could give me some advice on whether they need to be redone, and how to do it? Haven't had a chance to see if there's a how-to in Mark's book.

Stev-o · « **Reply #96 on:** April 27, 2016, 03:03:40 PM »

Did he try turning them on a lathe? These are stainless steel, need to be ground.

Killman · « **Reply #97 on:** April 27, 2016, 03:08:36 PM »

Sounds like they just pop them on a machine. I can get access to a lathe, but I'd need to know the process first.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #98 on:** April 27, 2016, 03:25:15 PM »

can't be turned on a lathe...they need to be blanchard ground...actually your guy with the sander probably did nothing except #$%* up their looks. These are very hard stainless. I have never had one that needed anything unless you want them thinner/lighter. They don't groove, they don't warp, they don't wear, and they are nearly twice as thick as they need to be...if there are small grooves, once your pads seat, everything is fine.

you gonna have to have Godfrey thin them now...or replace, or just run them cautiously until you have confidence they are ok

Killman · « **Reply #99 on:** April 27, 2016, 03:34:08 PM »

Okay, good info to have, thanks. Any ideas on who to look for, that would have the necessary equipment and be able to do the work?

The automotive shop just touched the machining surface to one rotor, a mm or less, so there shouldn't be too much damage. With two rotors, I should hopefully be safe if I take it easy until I have confidence in them. Really not crazy about the swirls on them though.

News:

Author Topic: Good Lord where do I start? CB750... ish (Read 20853 times)