Author Topic: Good Lord where do I start? CB750... ish (Read 21390 times)

Killman · « **Reply #75 on:** March 16, 2016, 03:05:22 PM »

I've got no problem with the boonies. Unfortunately you're in Texas, bit of a trip for me, sounds like you got a great deal though. Throw up some pics!

Far as I know, the headlight bucket is OEM, ordered in a new 35/35W bulb to brighten things up a bit. Hoping that the reflector I've got on a shelf will fit the bucket without too many hassles. I've got enough new parts to throw together a chrome assembly, but I'd rather have this one painted to match the tank. Be cool if I could keep the original lens too, but it looks to be a sealed beam unit and I doubt I could get it apart in a usable fashion.

Stev-o · « **Reply #76 on:** March 16, 2016, 03:49:38 PM »

The OEM bucket is plastic, most coaters wont touch it.

Killman · « **Reply #77 on:** March 16, 2016, 03:51:58 PM »

That's okay, the plan is paint on the tank and bucket. Powder coat for the hubs, (maybe the rims depending how pooched the chrome is) crankcase, jugs, head, frame and some odds and sods.

Killman · « **Reply #78 on:** March 19, 2016, 02:19:22 PM »

Took a closer look at the engine yesterday and it was not an uplifting experience. Busted fins on the jugs, chewed up fins on the other side of the head and the "chrome" is lifting off of the left side engine covers and the cam cover. Looks like some damage at the top of the alternator cover as well.

So I'm going to at least have to replace the whole top end and the alternator cover, as well as the other left side engine cover. If I knew I could get the "chrome" off, cleanly and inexpensively, I'd just polish the other cover. Although I guess that wouldn't match the clutch cover.

Haven't pulled anything apart yet to see what shape the internals are in. Not even sure if it makes sense to try to start it at this point before just tearing everything down. Think it would more or less just be to see if anything unexpected and dramatic happened, to point me in the direction of potential problems that I hadn't noticed yet. Real bummer that the engine is in such gross shape. I was just going to run with the chrome covers when I thought they'd clean up halfway decently, but considering how much money, time and work I'll be putting into the rest of the bike, that engine is going to at least look halfway decent. Rather be spending the money on things like pistons and rings, though.

The kickstart lever has a chunk out of it that's rusting up and the rims are definitely pitted. The swingarm chrome seems to be okay, I'll know better as I clear out more of the grime. I had thought about just roughing up the rims and having them powder coated black to match the hubs, but I'm wondering if it would make more sense to find some aluminum rims instead...

The fork uppers are pitted as well, although it looks to be above the travel area. Might flog them for a few bucks towards having CycleX making me some new longer ones that would take Schrader valves.

Going to make me feel a whole lot better once I start pulling busted bits and giving things some cleaning. I've got quite the collection of parts ready to go and it will seem a lot less futile once I can see some changes happening. Right now though? Yeesh, what a heap.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #79 on:** March 19, 2016, 03:31:08 PM »

You could try vapor blasting those oxidized parts.

754 · « **Reply #80 on:** March 19, 2016, 03:40:40 PM »

If it runs keep using it, you can grab another motor and. Freshen it up while riding..plus the covers will fit on yours..
I am riding a pitted tired heap right now, but it gets a bit nicer everytime I clean, replace or work on it.

Killman · « **Reply #81 on:** March 19, 2016, 03:48:22 PM »

About the only thing I'd think to vapour blast would be the actual engine and it's all busted up.

Aluminum I can just level out and polish, with enough time and work, but once steel and chrome starts to pit it's a question of whether it's worth rechroming or not. With the prices here for chroming, versus the prices of replacement parts, the answer is definitely not. Paint and powder is looking to cost a whack as well. Going to have to see where I stand on things after I get a proper engine together and do a complete mock-up.

The wiring is all hacked and chewed as well, with "spare" pieces literally falling off the bike. Starting to think that a new harness might be in order just to save the time of trying to figure out what's actually functional.

Killman · « **Reply #82 on:** March 20, 2016, 05:46:30 PM »

Awesome day. First day of Spring and a swap meet at the Luxton Fairgrounds. Picked up a replacement set of jugs, (haven't mic'd 'em yet) and a cam cover for the CB. Couple of Clymers for 60-70's Brit twins, brand new looking Giuliari seat for an early 60's to late 70's Sporty and a couple of old chrome Mack Truck bulldog emblems. Got a line on a finned alternator cover as well, that I'll pick up on one of my next trips up-Island.

Not a bad bloody haul!

Killman · « **Reply #83 on:** March 21, 2016, 02:40:39 PM »

Finally wore down the guy I've been trying to buy signals from. Looks like a decent set, should go nicely with the tail light. Got no use for the tail light and bracket coming with the signals, hopefully I can flog or trade 'em for something.

Killman · « **Reply #84 on:** April 09, 2016, 08:06:35 PM »

Looking for some recommendations here. Got my new spokes in and I want to lace and true them myself using a spoke torque wrench. Been reading a lot of mixed reviews on different wrench sets. Can anyone suggest a good spoke torque wrench set that will have the right size head attachment and torque range for this bike?

I know it's not one of the cooler or old school methods, and it may not be necessary to use one, but I want to see if using the spoke torque wrench makes the job as quick and easy as it's claimed to.

Killman · « **Reply #85 on:** April 11, 2016, 08:19:50 AM »

Well for f@ck's sake. Seriously? Nobody seems to make a head for a spoke torque wrench in the right size for these things. Only Excel seems to make one with a low enough torque value. And I can't seem to find the listed size for the nipple flats. They seem to be 3 mm, but I seem to recall they were called a size 8?..

This is starting to get personal. I'm beginning to feel the McGuyver twitch. If anyone wants to share the nipple size with me, to save me more searching through old posts and the books, I'd really appreciate it.

*Edit: Never mind. I just so happened to have an Excel "5.1 mm" Torque head here. It sure isn't. I was pondering just soldering some sort of shim into it, and took some inside calipers to it. Lo and behold, 3 mm! Checked it on the nipple flats, which I had earlier measured to 3 mm, and it fits almost perfectly. Seems snug enough to not strip or mark things up. So Excel kit on the way.

Killman · « **Reply #86 on:** April 22, 2016, 04:35:11 PM »

Just found out that the alloy side cover I wanted to use has been discontinued. Bummer, it would've looked killer with the raw metal front fender.

Guess I'll just have to make my own then!

This is going to be a step up in my fab skills. Up to this point, I've just been cutting and grinding small brackets for random needs. I have about a 1'x3' sheet of brass that came off of an old fire door. Hoping it'll be enough material to make up a pair of side covers and a cluster bracket for the 1.5" Marshall and the Koso.

Got a few friends that are fabricators, machinists and welders. So if I get too stuck I'll hump somebody's leg for help, but I'd like to learn how to do a decent job myself from start to finish. Be a nice skill set to have for future projects. So far the wisdom from on high is to pick up a variable speed jigsaw with a 3/8" metal cutting blade for cutting out the basic pieces. I figure I should be able to file or dremel the sharp edges, polish and then use some fairing-type trim to give them a finished look.I'll either need to buy or beg some time on a break to bend the cluster bracket. Not sure if I'll need a curve in the side covers. If so, I guess I'd need to figure out how to calculate and document the specs on it so that I could take them to someone with an English Wheel?

The side cover that I had originally wanted had an armature from the bottom of the cover to the lowest side cover mounting point on the bike. Thinking it would be cool to use a brake indicator arm or some similar ratched piece from the junk pile.

I'm all ears on this kinda thing. Be pretty easy for me to make a hash of it. At least I have some reference materials to draw on, I've got a bunch of shop manuals on metal working picked up at swap meets, garage sales and book sales that I haven't been able to find the time to read. I guess now's the time.

Killman · « **Reply #87 on:** April 27, 2016, 02:58:59 PM »

Looks like I might have a problem. The drilled rotors that I picked up were supposed to have been resurfaced by a guy that knew his stuff, but they looked like they'd just been worked over with a small sander, so I took them to a local garage to be machined. Garage tells me that they reacted funny on the machine, instead of fine material coming off it started to spool. They only did a mm or so, and I haven't picked them up yet to see the result. Any rotor gurus that could give me some advice on whether they need to be redone, and how to do it? Haven't had a chance to see if there's a how-to in Mark's book.

Stev-o · « **Reply #88 on:** April 27, 2016, 03:03:40 PM »

Did he try turning them on a lathe? These are stainless steel, need to be ground.

Killman · « **Reply #89 on:** April 27, 2016, 03:08:36 PM »

Sounds like they just pop them on a machine. I can get access to a lathe, but I'd need to know the process first.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #90 on:** April 27, 2016, 03:25:15 PM »

can't be turned on a lathe...they need to be blanchard ground...actually your guy with the sander probably did nothing except #$%* up their looks. These are very hard stainless. I have never had one that needed anything unless you want them thinner/lighter. They don't groove, they don't warp, they don't wear, and they are nearly twice as thick as they need to be...if there are small grooves, once your pads seat, everything is fine.

you gonna have to have Godfrey thin them now...or replace, or just run them cautiously until you have confidence they are ok

Killman · « **Reply #91 on:** April 27, 2016, 03:34:08 PM »

Okay, good info to have, thanks. Any ideas on who to look for, that would have the necessary equipment and be able to do the work?

The automotive shop just touched the machining surface to one rotor, a mm or less, so there shouldn't be too much damage. With two rotors, I should hopefully be safe if I take it easy until I have confidence in them. Really not crazy about the swirls on them though.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #92 on:** April 27, 2016, 05:16:20 PM »

pm Godfrey(maybe spelled with two d's?)...member here...I cant think of his business name right now but I think he is in the site supporter section

the swirls will wear off in time, might take a long time and only where the pads contact

754 · « **Reply #93 on:** April 28, 2016, 09:12:18 AM »

Not a matter of torque. Rigigity and tool geometry is important, they really want to sing and vibrate.
very difficult to get a good finish, unless cutting both sides.
I think they maybe rough them on a lathe, then finish grind in some cases.
If you take the rivets out they may be easier to work with.

Powderman · « **Reply #94 on:** April 28, 2016, 09:24:19 AM »

Too much chatter to get them right on a lathe, as mentioned grinding is the only correct option. How hard is it to replace the rivets?

754 · « **Reply #95 on:** April 28, 2016, 09:54:23 AM »

They change them to bolts.

Killman · « **Reply #96 on:** April 28, 2016, 10:08:23 AM »

Any ideas on someone in Canada, preferably BC, Vancouver Island, that could refinish them?

Shipping is a bit ugly on these due to the weight.

Killman · « **Reply #97 on:** April 29, 2016, 02:09:06 PM »

Got some more bits in today, chain guard, tank badges, swingarm, (really only wanted the double nipple guts, but it was a package deal) and a ribbed fender. Been really looking forward to the fender. Plan was to cut it into two smaller ones, but the lines are pretty spot on for the bike as-is. Might just keep it intact and mount it onto the stock integral brace. Shame to dismantle a perfectly good stocker, but I haven't come across a crappy one that I could cut up, or just the mounting brace already separated.

Still might just mount the fender to the underside of the lower triple for static clearance and run an aftermarket fork brace. We'll see as the mock-up goes along.

Here's the fender:

Killman · « **Reply #98 on:** May 04, 2016, 02:49:12 PM »

Well after two months of going round and round with the seat guy, I've finally got the thing. It's very pretty. It also doesn't have hinges and it looks like I'll have to at least partially remove the seat cover to install some. Anyone happen to have some hinges, (and maybe a keyed seat and steering lock while I'm at it) they'd be willing to part with?

I have learned my lesson. I will just pay my nice local upholstery guy the money from now on. Twice the price is worth it to not have to worry about some jerk-off in the land of Faraway taking his sweet-ass time and then finally providing me with something other than agreed upon. Could easily wind up paying the same amount if all doesn't go well and I have to bring this in for "adjusting". Kinda browns me off that he was getting so many good reviews over on DTT, really got sucked in on that one.

Killman · « **Reply #99 on:** May 05, 2016, 04:52:42 PM »

Like to get that frame kit installed this week, so I can hopefully run it up-island for powder next weekend before the swap meet in Campbell River.

I've always stayed away from cutting frames wanting the option to go back to stock configurations. If I'm finally going to do it, I'd like to do as clean a job as possible.

Can anyone suggest a pipe cutter that will do the job cleanly and relatively painlessly?

News:

Author Topic: Good Lord where do I start? CB750... ish (Read 21390 times)