Topic: Ricks rectifier/regulator

[rocks]

The WHITE wire needs to be in the plug (opposite the WHITE coming from the alternator). Your alternator should have:
3 - Yellows
1 - White
1 - Green
Also, the GRN/RED Neutral and BLU/RED Oil are in the plug.

Typically, the 10-100 model from Ricks comes with the plug oriented as such:
3 - Yellows
1- Red
1- Green
1 - Loose White
1- Loose Black
1 - Loose Green

Swapping the RED from the plug (Ricks) with the WHITE, then routing the RED to battery POS, works perfectly.

So, what model did you buy, because the picture you posted didn't allow me to see a plug?

I have 10-100 model as you described it above.
I have a loose white, black, green on the harness, so I can't put the white in the plug.

I am wondering, can I bypass the harness and the ignition switch just for testing purposes?   

Connect the Black from reg to the battery (straight )
White to White
Both Greens (Alternator and reg) to the frame (straight)
Yellows to Yellows
Red to Red (or straight to the battery)

I just wanna see if I have any corroded connections and/or ignition switch. I cleaned as much as I could. 

[calj737]

You can. Unpin the RED. Swap the WHITE in its place. These have small "barbs" on them so you depress the barb, and pull the wire out of the plug. That RED which will now be loose, gets attached to your battery POS. The RED carries the 12vdc from the alternator.

Trust me, I've done dozens of these units the exact same way.

[rocks]

You can. Unpin the RED. Swap the WHITE in its place. These have small "barbs" on them so you depress the barb, and pull the wire out of the plug. That RED which will now be loose, gets attached to your battery POS. The RED carries the 12vdc from the alternator.

Trust me, I've done dozens of these units the exact same way.

I think I've found the problem. It worked perfectly by bypassing the harness. Connected everything back together except the black wire that was connected straight to battery +, and it still working. Now the charge is 14.5 at any rmp. 
Now I just gonna trace the black wire and find where the issue is..

I appreciate all your help.

[calj737]

The BLACK is the sensing wire. Unless it's tied into the switched 12v current, the REG will overcharge your battery. You're only half way home. Getting a charge to the battery is necessary, controlling that charge is critical.

If you tied the BLACK to a connection that saw a 1v drop from battery actual, then the REG will overcharge thinking the battery is depleted.

[rocks]

The BLACK is the sensing wire. Unless it's tied into the switched 12v current, the REG will overcharge your battery. You're only half way home. Getting a charge to the battery is necessary, controlling that charge is critical.

If you tied the BLACK to a connection that saw a 1v drop from battery actual, then the REG will overcharge thinking the battery is depleted.

I unpinned all the wires from the plug cuz all wires coming off alternator (Y,R,G,B) are loose (plug was melted while ago). So, connecting (R ->R, G->G, Y->Y) then black to battery + will cause problems? The battery is charging fine this way.
Maybe I still don't get you method of wiring.

[calj737]

Where did you connect what was the loose WHITE? How about some pictures?

It should be:
From Alternator/Stator
3 Yellows
1 White
1 Green

These match exactly to the Ricks IF you swap the plug ends as it ships. This leaves:
Loose BLACK, loose RED and loose GREEN.

The RED needs a path to battery POS to deliver the charge. The GREEN needs to go to chassis GROUND. The BLACK needs to be connected to a switched 12v circuit.

If you connect BLACK to battery POS and RED to battery POS then the BLACK  will always be reading the output of the Regulator, not the status of the battery. You need to move BLACK away from the battery and read a wired circuit, after the KEY switch.

It's not really that hard...

[CB750F2]

Rocks, revisit reply No.2 by Bodi. He has described exactly what is happening and a couple of options on how to fix the problem. In your last post you said that you connected the black wire from the regulator to battery positive and the battery charged at 14.5 volts. This proves what Bodi said was correct. However you cannot leave it like that because it will slowly drain the battery when the bike is not running. Hence the need of a relay that is switched by the black wire from the harness. The link to the battery should be fused as well. I have assumed that the new regulator has no output voltage adjustment. The original regulator is adjustable and can be adjusted to compensate for the voltage drop on the black wire.
Pat

[rocks]

Where did you connect what was the loose WHITE? How about some pictures?

It should be:
From Alternator/Stator
3 Yellows
1 White
1 Green

These match exactly to the Ricks IF you swap the plug ends as it ships. This leaves:
Loose BLACK, loose RED and loose GREEN.

The RED needs a path to battery POS to deliver the charge. The GREEN needs to go to chassis GROUND. The BLACK needs to be connected to a switched 12v circuit.

If you connect BLACK to battery POS and RED to battery POS then the BLACK  will always be reading the output of the Regulator, not the status of the battery. You need to move BLACK away from the battery and read a wired circuit, after the KEY switch.

It's not really that hard...

Here are some pics

[calj737]

You're killing me... I appreciate you showing me the colors connected together, BUT what is relevant is where do those wires go?

I think I've found the problem. It worked perfectly by bypassing the harness. Connected everything back together except the black wire that was connected straight to battery +, and it still working. Now the charge is 14.5 at any rmp. 
Now I just gonna trace the black wire and find where the issue is..

So in this example, you prove my point exactly. By disconnecting BLACK the R/R is throwing maximum charge at your battery without constraint. Your alternator can produce up to 18v, and this will fry your battery immediately.

Show me pictures, or describe in detail, what wire color coming from the R/R is connected to where. Then I can help if you still need it.

[rocks]

You're killing me... I appreciate you showing me the colors connected together, BUT what is relevant is where do those wires go?

I think I've found the problem. It worked perfectly by bypassing the harness. Connected everything back together except the black wire that was connected straight to battery +, and it still working. Now the charge is 14.5 at any rmp. 
Now I just gonna trace the black wire and find where the issue is..

So in this example, you prove my point exactly. By disconnecting BLACK the R/R is throwing maximum charge at your battery without constraint. Your alternator can produce up to 18v, and this will fry your battery immediately.

Show me pictures, or describe in detail, what wire color coming from the R/R is connected to where. Then I can help if you still need it.

Looking at the first pic, the bottom wires are R/R wires (mostly rectifier). You can also see also see White and Black wires, but not the Green (regulator).

Rectifier:
Yellows -> Yellows (Alternator)
Red -> Red/White (Starter solenoid)
Green ->Ground

Then second pic, regulator wires:
Black -> switched 12 volts
White-> White(alternator)
Green-> Ground.

Now by connecting the black from Regulator to battery +(bypassing the harness), it charges just fine.
The black wire starts from the ignition switch to front brake switch, starter switch, engine stop switch, winker relay, oil pressure light, neutral light, turn signal buzzer, horn, rear brake switch and then to the Regulator.

I am losing 1v from Ignition switch to the Regulator. All connector look good. I am just gonna tear apart all the switches and relays and see I end up.

Thanks again

[Duke McDukiedook]

Apparently Ricks R/R might be the problem. I put back the stock rec and reg, and everything was fine.

What a waste of money   

Normally these are not 'upgrades'. If your stock equipment was working fine before why change it?

In newer units the diodes will be more efficient but the regulators are not adjustable. Not much of an upgrade in my mind but hey, it's your money- spend freely! 

Honda upgraded them why shouldn't I? I just think they better...