Author Topic: My 1977 CB550F project (Read 20250 times)

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **on:** April 11, 2016, 03:55:16 PM »

My son and I purchased a 1977 CB550F March 2015. We have made multiple adjustments to the carb jetting and have finally reached what is a great setting for our CB550F and it's up and running great

We have Dyna Electronic Ignition and Coils, Rick's combo Regualtor/Rectifier, LED Signal and Tail Lights, TruGel MG12A-4A1 Battery, Adjure 7 inch Headlight with PIAA H4 Extreme White Plus Halogen Bulb
We still have a few mods to make, we currently have a stock exhaust with a severely chopped stock muffler and UNI foam filters, attached is a spread sheet of our various carb settings which you may find helpful

We replaced the stock shocks with after market shocks which we had to modify slightly to get them to mount on the stock frame.

We are in the process of adding a second front disk brake and would like to hear from anyone who has already done this with any tips on what needs to be done, it looks like the speedo drive is a problem area.

We are also thinking of swapping the forks from left to right so we can mount the caliper's behind the forks instead of in front of the forks, has anyone done this?
Any tips or advice on this?

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #1 on:** April 13, 2016, 08:48:08 AM »

Current picture of my 1977 CB550F

flybox1 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 13, 2016, 09:05:18 AM »

adding a second disc is an easy mod. Godffery makes it easy

http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Parts+and+service/

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #3 on:** April 13, 2016, 09:26:57 AM »

Thanks for that link!

calj737 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 13, 2016, 09:28:00 AM »

As for installing the calipers behind, this is viable but it alters the stock fender mount legs. So you'll need to modify yours to fit. And make sure you rotate the axle clamps.

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #5 on:** April 13, 2016, 10:22:58 AM »

Gotcha, rotate the fork legs 180 degrees means you need to rotate the axle caps 180 degrees also, Thanks

Maybe I'll rotate the Fender 180 degrees also.

A good article on CB550 dual disk brake setup http://blacksquaremotorcycle.com/dual-disc-conversion/#comment-136

flybox1 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 13, 2016, 10:26:52 AM »

Quote from: JMS28411 on April 13, 2016, 09:26:57 AM

Thanks for that link!

From Godfferys site, this is the part i think you'll be most interested in. The modified speedo drive plate.
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Parts+and+service/Complete+Twin+Disc+kit/DSCN0280.JPG.html

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #7 on:** April 13, 2016, 10:33:09 AM »

Thanks, in the past I installed a dual disk setup on my 1974 CB750, but I don't remember having to modify the speedo drive plate, it was a simple bolt on process. I figured I need to do it with this bike, trying to figure out how to modify the drive plate or maybe buy a modified one?

flybox1 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 13, 2016, 10:43:14 AM »

Even on the 750, the speedo needs to be modified when dual discs are added.
Its a simple exercise with a dremel/cutoff wheel....or you can buy this nice clean one

check this...http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,53532.0.html

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #9 on:** April 13, 2016, 01:00:26 PM »

my after market shock mod

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #10 on:** April 13, 2016, 04:57:24 PM »

Quote from: flybox1 on April 13, 2016, 10:26:52 AM

Quote from: JMS28411 on April 13, 2016, 09:26:57 AM
Thanks for that link!
From Godfferys site, this is the part i think you'll be most interested in. The modified speedo drive plate.
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Parts+and+service/Complete+Twin+Disc+kit/DSCN0280.JPG.html

That's the part I need alright, but I can't register on the website to buy it, the code I need to enter to register is not visible

Is it still an operational website?

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #11 on:** April 17, 2016, 04:48:25 PM »

Removed the forks for inspection, cleaning, new fork seals & dust caps and fork oil.

Swapped the forks from left to right for dry fit inspection for mounting the calipers behind the forks instead of in front of the forks looks good.

The stock fender has to go. Ordered Tarrozi fork brace. Possibly install a different front fender later, not sure what for now?

Can't wait to install these, hoping for better braking, eventually maybe a rear disk brake, those drum brakes almost got me killed a few weeks ago ... maybe it was me anyhow not much fun when the rear wheel locks up

P.S. Old jeans never die

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #12 on:** April 18, 2016, 01:12:06 PM »

Fork oil according to old CB550 shop manual is Honda ATF

flatlander · « **Reply #13 on:** April 18, 2016, 01:18:42 PM »

get proper fork oil. they suggest ATF because there was nothing else available at the time.
also, ATF is around 7 which is very light. depends on you but i wouldn't like it. with fork oil you have different weights to play with.

flybox1 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 18, 2016, 01:19:26 PM »

A huge difference dual discs, Tarozzi fork brace, progressive springs and good fork oil made on the overall feel of my K8's front end.
Dont forget to top it off with some braided stainless lines and a clean/new MC.

No need for a rear disc. The drum is all you need if braking properly

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #15 on:** April 22, 2016, 03:10:15 PM »

I now have everything to finish the forks new fork seals, dust caps orings for the tube caps, Progressive springs, Tarozzi fork brace and Maxima fork oil, I am going to start with 7w fork oil. My son will be here Sunday to help out with the forks. I am going to rebuild the second caliper Saturday, we have a new MC with a slightly larger piston for the dual disk setup and braided stainless steel lines. Hopefully we will be back on the road by the end of April

I am going to ride it first, take it easy and put about 50 miles on it to be sure everything is working properly.

The progressive springs are about a half inch longer and a little stiffer than the stock springs.

It's a great bike for around town and short trips, about 150 miles. I had a 500 four back in 1972 and a CB750 in 74 which was a little disappointing until I rejetted the carbs, before that a I had 250 BSA and then a 500 BSA twin, I got to ride all the BSA's and a lot of the Yamaha's while working at a BSA Yamaha shop in Brandywine MD from 69 to 71
2004 I had a Honda 750 Shadow , then a 2005 Yamaha Vstar 1100, a real nice bike and currently a 2014 Yamaha Vstar 1300 I got anywhere from 47 to 49 mpg burning Shell Plus about a 800 miles round trip from Wilmington NC to VA Beach and Williamsburg VA

BTW that cam chain tensioner nut is a right hand thread isn't it, I can not get that SOB to budge, 39 years of being idle

flatlander · « **Reply #16 on:** April 22, 2016, 11:00:07 PM »

yes right hand thread. did you try soaking it with penetrating oil? sometimes it helps to just give it time, like repeatedly soaking it over a couple of days. applying heat may also get it loose.

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #17 on:** April 23, 2016, 06:28:34 AM »

Yes, I used WD40 a few times and I applied a little heat a few times, but that nut keeps saying Hell No I Won't Budge, I'll keep trying

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #18 on:** April 23, 2016, 11:13:47 PM »

I really like your turn signals. What are they?

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #19 on:** April 24, 2016, 10:32:08 PM »

I bought the LED turn signals on Amazon, they are nice because the body is metal not plastic and they are very visible at night from a distance

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Indicator-Davidson-Kawasaki-Scooter/dp/B005DV9HVY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #20 on:** April 24, 2016, 10:43:36 PM »

The forks have been disassembled, cleaned up inside & out and reassembled with new fork seals, dust caps, progressive fork springs and Tarozzi fork brace installed. the two drilled and resurfaced disc rotors are installed on the front wheel. I am rebuilding the second brake caliper, when that is done I will install and align the brake calipers and the new master cylinder, bleed the brakes and go for a test ride around the block. It doesn't sound like much, but there is a lot of work to before the bike is ready to ride. I am hoping to be done by the end of April, but it may be the first week of May. Got to take my time and do it right

I have to determine how much fork oil to use with the Progressive fork springs, the Honda shop manual calls for 5.3-5.6 ounces with the stock springs, generally a smaller amount with Progressive fork springs, maybe 5.4oz?

flatlander · « **Reply #21 on:** April 25, 2016, 03:20:23 AM »

the thing that matters is the hight of the oil, or actually height of the air chambre above the oil. when i bought my new springs the manufacturer (wilbers) gave a recommended height for the air chambre specifically for the 550 that they were made for. that was 160mm but your springs are probably different so don't know how good a starting point that is for you.

if you don't have an indication of how much air is recommended, and don't have any other reference, i think starting out with something close to the original volume of oil, but keeping an eye in height of the air chambre, should give you an ok starting point.

for fine tuning you can vary it a bit. smaller air chambre makes the forks harder towards the end of compression.

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #22 on:** April 25, 2016, 11:53:17 AM »

Fork Oil Level from the top of the fork tube for CB550 with the springs removed and the forks fully collapsed

Progressive fork springs for the CB550 recommend an oil level of about 140 mm or 5.5 inches from the top (Maximum oil level)

Race Tech fork springs for the CB550 recommend an oil level of about 130 mm or 5.2 inches from the top (Maximum oil level)

I will be starting out with maximum oil level of 5.5 inches from the top with my Progressive fork springs as recommended by Progressive

flatlander · « **Reply #23 on:** April 25, 2016, 12:43:09 PM »

oops wilbers recommended 160mm for mine, not 16. i corrected it above.
yes i'd use their recommendation as a starting point. then if you need to make them softer you can remove a small amount of oil.

JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken · « **Reply #24 on:** April 28, 2016, 10:46:41 AM »

On my 1977 CB550F with the forks totally drained, fully collapsed and the springs removed it took 200ml from a graduated cylinder to bring the fork oil level up to 5.75 inches from the top of the fork tube. This is 35 ml (cc) more than the Honda manual says to add and a 1/4 inch lower than Progressive suggests.

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Author Topic: My 1977 CB550F project (Read 20250 times)