Topic: -75 honda cb500 cafe/brat build

[b.linden]

So trying to get started with the electrics!
 Im gonna use AlBundys (thanks for letting me!) wiring diagram, might make one more specific to my build soon though since I use the M-button, no starter and the wire-colors might be a bit different.
 This is the diagram


Im trying to understand how to wire the reg/rec, and i can't seem to really do it..
 from the alternator comes five wires, three YELLOW, one GREEN and one WHITE. my understanding, and as seen in the diagram, is that all these connects to the reg/rec. The thing is that from the reg/rec, the five wires that are bundled together in a white connector is three YELLOW one RED and one GREEN. other than those wires there are three "loose" ones, one BLACK one GREEN and one WHITE.
 So i guess my question is, which wires from the reg/rec connects to which wires from the alternator? The sane way this should be done, at least in my mind, is that the five wires bundled togehter goes to the five wires that comes from the alternator. Is it just that the RED from reg/rec goes to WHITE from the alternator? or is it the loose WHITE that connects to WHITE from the alternator, which is what the diagram says. And in wich case the WHITE should switch places with the RED in the connector.
 This way makes more sense to me, and is how i think it should be! did ricks f** up and put the wrong wire in the connector?

[b.linden]

The reason the diagram differs from the way Ricks ships his Reg/Rec is because his plugs are configured for a "stock" panel.

So simply swap the RED from the plastic plug with the loose WHITE. Then abide the diagram from Al. And ditch the m-button...

Had a second look at the instructions that came with the reg/rec and figured that was the reason its set up as it is.. thanks!
 
 Haha, yeah might as well right? wish I never bought the thing, but since I did I'm thinking i might as well use it.
 

[b.linden]

Just want to double check one thing, the only effect not having a starter has on the wiring-diagram is to ditch the starter, the solenoid and all the wiring to it, i.e. the wire from the solenoid to the battery +, and the wire from solenoid to M-unit start, right?
 Actually, just now realising that this probably will affekt how I wire the kill/switch.. Allknowing Calj, can the killswitch button(only killswitch and not start/killswitch in my case) still be connected to START input on the M-unit and work as it should?

[b.linden]

Okey, you convinced me.. ditching the M-button! probably bought it too long ago to send it back though, too bad.

 Regarding the KILL, I will be using "homemade" switches, 3d-printed housing with momentary buttons. And a flip switch for blinkers. It should work exaktly as the motogadget switches, so will probably wire it like the first option!

[b.linden]

So the M-unit double click function on START/KILL button doesent work if theres no starter motor?

[b.linden]

The law in Sweden says you have to have a kill button on the handlebars, the ignition key isn't enough.. so just figured it be an easier way of doing it than having the power wire to the coils going up to the handlebars and back!

Okey, sorry! will try do give you an overlook on my planned system and components!
 So as i said, the diagram is pretty accurate. exept no starter motor.
the battery is a antigravity 4-cell. Im using ricks motorsport reg/rec and a M-unit. Stock coils and some kind of aftermarket ignition timing. Handlebar controls are as in the diagram.
The headlight is a aftermarket, normal headlight, 60/55W 12V. No "running" light or what its calld though, just hi/lo beam.
Led blinkers front and back.
 Hope that answered at least some of what you were missing

[b.linden]

Not stock ignition, but i think OEM replacement. same wires as stock anyway.

 Well, I have to admit I think its mostly vanity, I want it to be kick only. retro bike, retro start. Also i wanted to keep the electrics to a minimum. And its a weight saving, wich at least sounds good to say.
 the hole for the starter is soon to be plugged. made a plug from aluminium and will stick it in place with epoxy.

[b.linden]

any tips on how to get the gound wire as tidy as possible?
 If i run one ground from m-unit mount up to the front of the bike, in to the headlight, it then has to split up into 8(if i counted right) new connectors.. is the best way to do this really with bullet connectors?

[b.linden]

A lot of questions now hehe..
 wire-sizes! this is what im following right now, as per motogadget instruction;
2.5mm² - power and ground
0.5mm² - m-unit inputs
1.5mm² - basically everything else

Battery POS to m-unit not included.

 Is this the right way to do it? can I use 0.5mm for led blinkers and brakelight? does all ground really have to be 2.5mm?

[b.linden]

any tips on how to get the gound wire as tidy as possible?
 If i run one ground from m-unit mount up to the front of the bike, in to the headlight, it then has to split up into 8(if i counted right) new connectors.. is the best way to do this really with bullet connectors?

Battery NEG straight to right rear motor hangar, pinched between frame and motor. M-unit ground to frame. Do NOT run a ground from battery to headlight. Ground the components to the frame individually.

 The way i see it (from the diagram and varios sources) the components should not be grounded induvidually to the frame, instead wired to a "mainline" collecting the grounds to the M-unit mount, wich is grounded to the frame.

[b.linden]

wondering about the ignition key and how to connect it. It has BROWN, BROWN/WHITE, RED and BLACK wires.
 In the diagram RED goes to m-unit POS (the battery POS cable) and the BROWN to m-unit "lock" input. Where does BROWN/WHITE and BLACK go?

[b.linden]

Ground the components to the frame individually.

The way i see it (from the diagram and varios sources) the components should not be grounded induvidually to the frame, instead wired to a "mainline" collecting the grounds to the M-unit mount, wich is grounded to the frame.

Diagrams are "theoretical" in their representation. It's true that essentially all the grounds end up in common, but that common denominator is the frame, working its way back to battery NEG, not the M-Unit. The battery NEG MUST find a connection to the motor/frame. After that, a "mainline" or common ground is purely personal approach.

For the greatest ease and reliability, wire each component to the main frame, bare metal connection for their respective grounds. I do find it puzzling that for someone with limited experience you would debate how to wire a bike, especially an M-Unit with someone who has wired dozens of them, and assisted in nearly a hundred others. But its your bike, and you should do as you wish.

Sorry Cal, not at all debating you or your knowledge and experience! just making sure I fully understand what you mean:) Sorry if i seamed blunt! Rather ask and seem stupid, than dont ask and stay stupid, you know!

[b.linden]

laid all the wire out on the bike, to get the right lenght and routing, then made the connections to the m-unit and such. Just a few things and a bunch of doublechecks and then I will start bundling the wires together!