Topic: 78 CB 550K motor rebuild

[AlekStooge]

Got it so find TDC after installing the cam. I think I've done everything correctly in that case but I'll check the manual about the tensioner.

[AlekStooge]

Alright I made a new pointer that I can adjust because I found it to difficult to loosen the wheel without turning the engine.

I got 143.5 and 167 degrees. Then I set it to 155.25 degrees and spun it back and forth getting at 155 OR between 154 and 155. Is this good enough? This means TDC would be at zero.

Again I found TDC after having the cam notch line up in the middle and bolted in.

[DaveBarbier]

It's close, but not close enough for me. It doesn't take long to get it exact. I'm not saying you need to do this, but when it comes to my motor, I like things done right.

[RAFster122s]

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,111105.msg1254556.html#msg1254556


Offline dave500
Really Old Timer ...
*******
 
Posts: 12,522
WHAT?no gravy?
View Profile  Personal Message (Offline)

Re: New Video- 1976 CB550 Valve Adjustment
« Reply #8 on: August 22, 2012, 03:14:13 AM »
ReplyQuote
when you tighten the valve cover down be sure to start with the middle four bolts in the breather sink,then work around to the three either side toward the edges,dont pull down on those front forward four next to the tappet covers untill its all going square and closing up,if you look close they arent real sturdy and ive seen a couple of broken ones,nip them down last,youll find even with the tappet adjusters backed fully off some of the rockers will start to compress the valve springs.
« Last Edit: August 22, 2012, 03:16:39 AM by dave500 »

[AlekStooge]

It's close, but not close enough for me. It doesn't take long to get it exact. I'm not saying you need to do this, but when it comes to my motor, I like things done right.

I did it again this time I get 155 degrees on one side and 154 or 156 on the other. If I adjust the pointer to 155 the degree on the other side goes up one degree or down one degree depending on which side I adjusted it on.

I think this might be due to warp from when I cut the plate out for the degree wheel. I was using tin snip and those sometimes cause it to slightly bend.

What do you guys say should I just move forward?

[DaveBarbier]

Yeah, could be the wheel. If you're getting 155 and 156 then you should be shooting for 155.5° on either side. I would try that, then unscrew the piston stop a little bit and see if those new numbers line up with each other. If you're happy with it, then I supposed it's ok to move on and see how the degreeing numbers look.

[AlekStooge]

I gave it a try, but the problem with aiming for 155.5 is that all it does is move the other number up more. They will never be the same this way.

I'm going to go ahead a move forward and see how everything else turns out.

[DaveBarbier]

I gave it a try, but the problem with aiming for 155.5 is that all it does is move the other number up more. They will never be the same this way.

I'm going to go ahead a move forward and see how everything else turns out.

What's the rough diameter of your wheel? If you increase the 155 by a half degree then it should decrease the 156 by half a degree, meeting at 155.5°. If your wheel is small then it'll be harder to be accurate. My wheel was 8.5" diameter. It worked fine but I might make another one...maybe 15". The larger the diameter, the greater accuracy...and more potential for frustration

[AlekStooge]

I gave it a try, but the problem with aiming for 155.5 is that all it does is move the other number up more. They will never be the same this way.

I'm going to go ahead a move forward and see how everything else turns out.

What's the rough diameter of your wheel? If you increase the 155 by a half degree then it should decrease the 156 by half a degree, meeting at 155.5°. If your wheel is small then it'll be harder to be accurate. My wheel was 8.5" diameter. It worked fine but I might make another one...maybe 15". The larger the diameter, the greater accuracy...and more potential for frustration

My wheel is 7 & 1/4 in. I tried what you said again. When you increase 155 by half a degree the other side ends up 156.5 not 155.5. It's like you have a scale of 1-10 written out on paper. You have your pointer at one and you move it forward 4 paces to 5. Well lets say you move it up to two and then 4 paces to 6. See what I mean hahaha:P

Anyways after talking to a few people I let it be. Got the cam lined up and put the sprocket on. Here is what it looks like at 0 degrees. I might go back and put some lock tight on the bolts but the manual doesn't say it so maybe not.

[AlekStooge]

Looks like I'll be needing the angled feeler gauges.

Anyone know the valve angles for the CB 550? Is this something that is just lined up by eye?

[DaveBarbier]

You don't want to Loctite the sprocket bolts yet until you degree. I used loctite blue on the bolts when I was all done.

Most people eye ball it. But I had the head off and was able to find the angle on the 650. A machine shop that works on 550's might know because they have to cut valve seats.

[AlekStooge]

Damn, nobody has 45'ed feeler gauges sets with .005-.008. I went to 4 auto parts stores. Looks like I'll have to get one from 4into1. Should've looked into this before.

[bwaller]

Why do you need them? If you fell you do just make a bend at the end of regular feelers.

[DaveBarbier]

Why do you need them? If you fell you do just make a bend at the end of regular feelers.

+1

You've never adjusted your tappets before?

[AlekStooge]

No I have never adjusted valve lash before. Boy did I learn the hard way though. Here was my weekend. I got new straight feeler gauges because mine didn't have the sizes I needed. I tried doing what you guys said by bending them. With difficulty I eventually thought I had one so I moved on to another. I thought I had it but noticed the tappet was a lot higher than the other one strange. Moved on to the next ones, I ended up not being able to fit the feeler gauge under the tappet despite it almost being screwed out. My gauge broke off at the end twice because I bent it so many times. I knew this shouldn't take more than 5 min. I gave up, having no confidence in the work I've done.

I watched this video and realized I have been so focused on getting the feeler gauge to slide in underneath the tappet that I forgot the order of adjustment in the shop manual. I started with a tappet that was tight so that's why I had trouble getting the gauge underneath. I ended up with a gauge that looks like an accordion. So stupid. I was adjusting exhaust valve 1 and 4 at TDC then 2 and 3 at BDC on my wheel. So I got the Johnny dumbass of the weekend award 

Anyways, whenever I used feeler gauges I'd stop adjusting when I felt light friction. Well I feel light friction even when I turn the screw in half a turn more. Should I just keep tightening until I feel more friction and then turn back a little bit or stop as soon as I feel light friction like I've been doing?

Watching the video I realized I also forgot the rubber bands. However If you see at the beginning of the video he installs the cover with the tappets in and then takes the bands off. I didn't put the tappets in till after I had the cover torqued down. Being that I turned the engine all the way through did I by chance bend a valve? Again I was so focused one getting the feeler gauge to slide in I forgot about this.

[DaveBarbier]

You probably didn't bend a valve, but it's impossible to say without checking. Even without the tappets installed, the rockers hang down as you install the cover and if they're hanging down too low, they can push on the tip of the valve. I'd say, when you install your normal cover just be careful and use rubber bands.

As long as you're adjusting the proper valve according to the manual, I just put the feeler gauge between the tappet and valve and screw it down until I feel a some drag. If you're using a .004" gauge, a .005" shouldn't slide in. Nothing of this process should require force. Keep in mind as you tighten the lock nut, the gap changes so always check again after it's tight.

Good on you for recognizing something is wrong, everyone has an idiot award for something

[AlekStooge]

It's .003", but I get. Will do tonight.

[AlekStooge]

Nope it's not .003. I was setting it by the manual it wasn't done by the cam card. This video helped me to understand how much friction I should be looking for from the feeler gauge. I kept comparing my results to the magazines and paper in between like in the video.

I was still a little unsure because when you turn it a 1/8 of a turn it feels relatively the same but I know that makes a big difference. Either way I have to redo it now.

Before I realized that I did start messing around with my dial indicator and set it up. Looks right?



One thing I noticed is I was not able to set it to zero. The knob on top just loosens the spindle but doesn't change the number. There is also another knob close to that one not sure what it does. I think I just have to adjust my set up to zero it out but I don't think that is so important since we're measuring distance. I can start at 90.

[flatlander]

you can rotate the bezel to get the "0" on the face of the indicator to be wherever you need it. so to zero it, it's not the spindle that you move, it's the face.

[DaveBarbier]

What are you trying to measure with the dial indicator? If this is for the degreeing process, this is no good. Read my write up, it says to put the dial indicator tip on the spring retainer. Why? Because the rocker arm moves in an arc and doesn't represent valve travel accurately.

And remember that regardless of the "feeling" with the feeler gauge, the next size up shouldn't fit. Honda and others sell go/no-go feelers for this purpose.

[AlekStooge]

So my feeler gauges should be scratching pretty well against the tappet and valve? If they are not then the next size fits in.

Someone refresh my memory what it the .040" lift at valve vs. valve lift intake.285" and exhaust .270"? It seems like those second numbers should be in degrees of when valve lift is at .040", no?

[bwaller]

For a first time effort you can time the cam by the factory marks. That's all we did for many many years and everyone was happy.

[AlekStooge]

I got a modified cover and dial indicator as well as invested enough time in doing this right. I bit off more then I can chew, but I'm going to get it done. I have heard of people just puting the cam in but I don't want to do that. Cal, if you say those figures should be in degrees then there must be a misprint because they put ". I hope they didn't misprint anything else.

[DaveBarbier]

Have a picture of the cam card?

[AlekStooge]

I will soon enough!