Topic: 78 CB 550K motor rebuild

[AlekStooge]

Dave, didn't see that. I already removed the degree wheel. I can make a scribe some other time. I guess for now I can use my light from my ignition as a point of refrence I think. I'll check out those plugs for the starter, anyone got a source? I came back here to ask about my fuel petcock. With my set up will I need a larger one for more fuel flow or will my carb changes alone be sufficent enough to take care of that?

[calj737]

Stock is fine.

[AlekStooge]

Thanks Cal, I'll just replace the stock one with a fresh new one in the future.

[tanner709]

Great work  Alek, I just read through the entire thread. You've gained a lot of valuable knowledge since the beginning. Keep the updates coming!

[AlekStooge]

Thank you, I agree I went down the rabbit hole for my first engine but I learned so much.

I ordered a lot of parts. I am waiting for some more to come in, so I am looking for things to do in the mean time. I put fresh jets in 105 on the mains and 45 pilot. I have a rebuild kit so I used some parts like the float gaskets but I will replace most of the brass after I get my carbs ultrasonically cleaned in the Spring. Yes I cleaned them with carb clean several times.

I learned a cool trick to get the pilot jets to seat snug. Remember these are pressed in on the PD46C carbs. I took the old pilot jet and placed the orifice side to the orifice on the new one and gently but firmly hit it with the butt of a screwdriver. Otherwise they wouldn't stay in for #$%*. Brass is soft, so I used brass on brass and neither jet had any damage.

I took the chain cover off and replaced the sprocket. I remembered there was a O ring on the primary shaft behind the seal that I forgot to put in. I think I'll be fine though. The starter is just in there for now, I don't plan on hooking it up. I hooked up the neutral and oil pressure switch. Those are supposed to go to + correct?

[calj737]

...and 45 pilot. That's a large pilot for PD46s. Why did you go up so high?

I took the chain cover off and replaced the sprocket. I remembered there was a O ring on the primary shaft behind the seal that I forgot to put in. I think I'll be fine though.Put the O-ring in. Its there for a reason from the factory. 

I hooked up the neutral and oil pressure switch. Those are supposed to go to + correct? Negative. They go to Negative. 
And please do something about those crappy blue plastic connectors. Those will fail promptly. Weather shielding is highly encouraged for those connections.

[AlekStooge]

...and 45 pilot. That's a large pilot for PD46s. Why did you go up so high?
Denny Zander's guide, stock is 42, 45 is the next size up.

Put the O-ring in. Its there for a reason from the factory. 
I would have to split the cases again. It is part 40.
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k-1978-usa_model7222/partslist/E++15.html#.W6LKeO_QZjo

Negative. They go to Negative. 
And please do something about those crappy blue plastic connectors. Those will fail promptly. Weather shielding is highly encouraged for those connections.
No way how so? I thought ground was -. Yes I will most certainly do something about those plastic connectors. I have a kit from vintage connections that I will post about pretty soon, I have to figure out how to use some of those connectors, plastic sleeves came with the kit.

[calj737]

Negative is Ground. Those switches are the ground side of the light. Black powers the other side of the bulb.
Why go up on your pilots? Stock, they’re already tuned rich. The mains, sure, you probably need larger.
Split the cases now or later. It’s your call.

[AlekStooge]

I see the switch itself doesn't require a positive, only the light.

I'll switch back to the 42.

My cam chain is connected to both the cam and crank. I was worried I'd have to degree my cam over again. So I would have to pull the main shaft or which ever one you have to freeze to put back in, spilt the cases, put the O ring in, freeze the bearing, reassemble the transmission, seal the cases back up. I have to man up to it.

[calj737]

Invert the motor. Remove the lower case. Saves all the top-end work.

Those switches are to illuminate the idiot cluster lights. The bulbs use BLACK for power, and Gr/Red and Bl/Red for their grounds.

[Little_Phil]

I took the chain cover off and replaced the sprocket. I remembered there was a O ring on the primary shaft behind the seal that I forgot to put in. I think I'll be fine though.Put the O-ring in. Its there for a reason from the factory. 

I think I remember this. There was discussion about where that O ring goes. Part 34 here?
https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cb550k-1978-usa-transmissionkick-spindle_bighu0056e4315_682d.gif
It looks to go on the shaft before the main slotted bearing is pressed on and is only replaceable if that bearing is removed/replaced. If bearing was left in place, no worries.
Part of this assy?
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k-1978-usa_model7222/shaft-trns_23220374000/#.W6Npp_ZFyaF

[AlekStooge]

The O ring is part 40 it goes between the bearing and the seal. I tore the cases apart and I'm glad I did, I am getting weary of this and just want it to be over.



That is one of the pucks from the head. I don't know how this happened. I am not sure where to continue from this point. I am thinking of going back to square one removing everything from the cases and cleaning it.

I also removed the rotor mistakenly. I was getting bound up and I thought that might have been it but I just forgot there were case bolts on the upside. The crank moved a little so I'll have to re-degree the cam. Of course those little stupid alignment pins on the bearing are missing and I didn't hear them drop to the ground, I was conscious of them when removing the lower case. I don't even know which ones they are on a parts fiche. At least now I have done all this before so I know how to do it.

[calj737]

You only need to degree the cam again if you disconnect head sprocket. Is that your intention to now reassemble and search for any missing or overlooked steps?

Sorry about your “two steps back” but far better to dance that dance now than after frame install and firing it up. 

[AlekStooge]

Head sprocket, I disconnected the alternator rotor. Yes I will have to degree again.

I mean in terms of cleaning the engine because that rubber puck is obviously crushed up. I want to clean the cases. Do you think I will need to clean the head as well?

How do you think this puck got loose an fell all the way down?

[calj737]

I’d say the puck dropped down the cam tunnel when you were installing the cover.

Just drop the oil pan and hose down the intervals with some kerosene or diesel. Reapply any assembly line and button her up again! A dab of Hondabond on those pucks will help keep them in place 

[AlekStooge]

 Ok I'm getting motivated again. So what you're saying is pull any rubber debris I see in and around the cases, clean it up. Then continue on, start the engine let it run for some time and any remaining debris will be in the oil pan/filter/strainer. Then clean the internals once again.                                                                                               
                                                                                                                                                                                                       
 I bought that pin as well as a set of pucks.

[calj737]

Not exactly. Drop the oil pan and clean out any debris you find. While open, flush the internals with kerosene- that will wash any small particles out.

Button up the engine. Then ride the bejeezus out of it!

[Little_Phil]

The O ring is part 40 it goes between the bearing and the seal. I tore the cases apart and I'm glad I did, I am getting weary of this and just want it to be over.

Yes sorry part 40. It's 24.5mm o/d and slides on the shaft before the bearing. It is to prevent oil from getting between the I/d of the shaft and the area to the splines where the chain drive sprocket fits. You will see that the oil seal metal ring is a separate pressed on part (but not available separately) so in theory could leak here.

[AlekStooge]

Glad I did, I'm just waiting for parts now.

I was looking at some of the things in the cases. First is this oil guide looks like there is a tiny bit that must have broke off at the end. Unfortunately neither David Silver or CMSNL have this part, so I don't know what I'll do if I need to replace it. Part 3

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k-1978-usa_model7222/partslist/E++12.html#.W6UQUu_QZjo



Second is my kick start spring it looks like it will fall off the case one day. I moved it a bunch of times with the lever on and it doesn't fall off but gets very close to the edge.

[tanner709]

Glad I did, I'm just waiting for parts now.

I was looking at some of the things in the cases. First is this oil guide looks like there is a tiny bit that must have broke off at the end. Unfortunately neither David Silver or CMSNL have this part, so I don't know what I'll do if I need to replace it. Part 3

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k-1978-usa_model7222/partslist/E++12.html#.W6UQUu_QZjo



Second is my kick start spring it looks like it will fall off the case one day. I moved it a bunch of times with the lever on and it doesn't fall off but gets very close to the edge.

Take a look at the right side cover, it may continue the same profile on that groove and spring for the kickstart = it will not fall off. Or it may have a stop to keep it pinned in there

[AlekStooge]

Yes, thank you . There is a profile on the clutch cover that blocks the spring from sliding off. Tanner, you should be more active on the forum, good insight!

[rballenger7]

How do i search mike reicks profile to pm him

[calj737]

How do i search mike reicks profile to pm him

Look on the High Performance section of the Forum. He's got a few threads there. Under his avatar, there's an icon for PM. Given you only have 2 posts, you may not yet be able to PM him directly. Simply post in his thread that you'd like to get in touch with him. 

[AlekStooge]

Update: While I was waiting for that pin to come in I've been in the garage fabricating. Made a new electric re-location pan, the previous one would allow the battery to fit under the rear gusset. I finished up the seat. I made a tab for the taillight that I will weld in once I re-drill a hole in it that is off by like 3mm.




Now those parts came in toady. I was going to button the engine up tonight. Riddle me this, how is that O-ring supposed to fit in between the bearing and the seal? It won't go onto the part of the shaft the seal is on, the ID is too small and I never took that bearing off it is pressed on or put on using some process I'm not familiar with.


Without seal

With seal

Part 40 https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k-1978-usa_model7222/partslist/E++15.html#.W6xiuu_QZjo

[DaveBarbier]

Hey Alek, I just want to get some definitive answers. For the transmission, did you disassemble the shaft and remove the o-ring in question? You just said you never removed that bearing...I don’t get what makes you think that the #40 o-ring needed replacement.

I haven’t disassembled the tranny shafts, but I assume that o-ring goes between the inner bearing race and the collar that the seal slides on to.

When you reassemble the lower case, be sure the end of the cam chain tensioner sits in it’s little pocket in the lower case. I bet installing the lower case with the oil pan off (which I think has to be done anyway) will be fairly easy to see if the tensioner is in it’s home. Just keep an eye out, but you’ve done this before so you’ll be good.