Topic: What would cause what would seem like a shrinking clutch cable? 77 550

[Lostboy Steve]

On another note... I installed the Dynoman Clutch. 1) because it cost less than if I bought all the parts from Barnett directly, and 2) to take all the guess work out. My adjustment on the case is maxed out as is the adjustment on the cable. The one by the lever is all the way in... This doesnt seem right, and so here we go again.

[flatlander]

i guess you reassembled your clutch with new parts. can you post a pic of the stack?

in the thread i linked to, look at bwaller's picture here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,145565.msg1786260.html#msg1786260
he's got less free space then i do, and you should aim for something closer to his as mine is even now, close to the maximum you can cope with, with the adjustment that's in the cable and the screw in the cover. it's ok for now but next winter i'll also reduce the gap.

stupid question (no offence meant): you're sure you have the right cable?

[Lostboy Steve]

none taken. I have a brand new motion pro extended cable because I have tall bars on it. The space I have now is right around where yours is.

[flatlander]

with the space i have it works but it is close to the limit of adjustments with OEM cable. maybe motion pro gives less of a range. better reduce free space by using some thicker discs.

the thing with these clutch sets is that they can't work for all versions of the basket the same way, as honda changed the design over the years. it seems like many POs threw out that damper plate together with the old clutch when they replaced it, and here we are... 
even with the OEM stuff i ordered, i had to mix-n-match parts to make it work.

[Lostboy Steve]

with the space i have it works but it is close to the limit of adjustments with OEM cable. maybe motion pro gives less of a range. better reduce free space by using some thicker discs.

the thing with these clutch sets is that they can't work for all versions of the basket the same way, as honda changed the design over the years. it seems like many POs threw out that damper plate together with the old clutch when they replaced it, and here we are... 
even with the OEM stuff i ordered, i had to mix-n-match parts to make it work.

It's really funny that of all the problems one could have, getting the correct clutch spacing is the most queer. Well maybe I will try using one thicker plate then. The dyno man kit comes with thinner plates but if I use one of the factory plates it's almost twice as thick. That should give me a bit extra adjustment. Thanks for all your input!

[el pachuco]

I don't know if you guys are aware of this but you can fine tune your stack height by adding an extra steel, without adding  an extra friction plate.
Just add the extra steel next to any of the other steels and you're good to go.

[Lostboy Steve]

I don't know if you guys are aware of this but you can fine tune your stack height by adding an extra steel, without adding  an extra friction plate.
Just add the extra steel next to any of the other steels and you're good to go.

I was wondering if that was ok. It doesn't slip against each other? Thanks for the info, that helps a lot.

[Lostboy Steve]

Never mind, makes sense. The plates have teeth to the hub so yeah, they can't slide on each other. Didn't even think about it. Thanks again.

[flatlander]

yes that would work. just use what you have, thicker or additional discs, to get the right amount of space.

[Lostboy Steve]

I'm going to. I'll probably use a mixture of the barnett steels with the Honda ones to get what I want. The barnett +1 steels are much thinner than the hondas. Any input on minimum space after compressed?

[alacrity]

I'm going to. I'll probably use a mixture of the barnett steels with the Honda ones to get what I want. The barnett +1 steels are much thinner than the hondas. Any input on minimum space after compressed?

thinner steels will require the fitment of a thicker spacer/bushing of the type i pointed out in my earlier post on this thread.  Also thinner steels will heat up faster and get hotter than thicker steels.  Were the honda ones warped?  They are really beefy and I haven't come across any warped one in the last 4 bikes I did.

[jonda500]

I'm going to. I'll probably use a mixture of the barnett steels with the Honda ones to get what I want. The barnett +1 steels are much thinner than the hondas. Any input on minimum space after compressed?

I don't know how much space, but some is necessary to allow the plates to release when the clutch is pulled in - the less space you have, the harder the clutch will be to pull in.
John

[Lostboy Steve]

No they weren't warped, and yes John, I also found that the lever is higher up the less free space I have. I don't know what to do now.... Here's the video....

[jonda500]

Wow, that is the cleanest clutch I've ever seen!

Not helpful for your issue I know, but what I actually meant is that the less free space you have, the more preload is put on the clutch springs and the more effort is required to pull the lever in.

My adjustment in the clutch cover is maxed out too, but with it turned all the way out, my release arm contact point occurs just after the notch in the arm lines up with the mark on the cover.
When I let the arm hang down with the cable disconnected however, it drops right down till it hits the clutch cover - you can't unscrew the oil cap without lifting it out of the way. -I wonder why yours seems different? Edit- ok I see you have the clutch cable still attached - forget what I just said!

My cable slack adjusters are screwed nearly all the way out too.

I don't remember my basket being loose at all once the four clutch spring bolts were done up (just a teeny bit of in/out play).

John

[Lostboy Steve]

Wow, that is the cleanest clutch I've ever seen!

Not helpful for your issue I know, but what I actually meant is that the less free space you have, the more preload is put on the clutch springs and the more effort is required to pull the lever in.

My adjustment in the clutch cover is maxed out too, but with it turned all the way out, my release arm contact point occurs just after the notch in the arm lines up with the mark on the cover.
When I let the arm hang down with the cable disconnected however, it drops right down till it hits the clutch cover - you can't unscrew the oil cap without lifting it out of the way. -I wonder why yours seems different? Edit- ok I see you have the clutch cable still attached - forget what I just said!

My cable slack adjusters are screwed nearly all the way out too.

I don't remember my basket being loose at all once the four clutch spring bolts were done up (just a teeny bit of in/out play).

John

Thanks, I polished anything that wasn't in-contact with friction. Honestly I could live with the cable adjusted like that, but it really shouldn't be. I imagine you loose the leverage needed to pull the lever after the max adjustment mark. I'm going to see my friend the machinist today, I may have a longer push-rod turned. I'll let you know. Edit* I'm having about 1/4 inch added to the push-rod. Pics when its done. I'm guessing on the length because its very hard to figure it out since I cant see through aluminum but it seems like I have 1/4 of play when the adjustment is maxed. Christ, I just want to ride.

[flatlander]

Any input on minimum space after compressed?

i don't know what the absolute minimum space is. but here's a picture of brent's clutch, he's got a lot less space than i do and it apparently works for him:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,145565.msg1786260.html#msg1786260

will be interesting to know how the longer push rod works out.

that clutch, indeed, looks blindingly clean and polished 

[Lostboy Steve]

Ok, here's what I got. He advised me to see if this will work and then the finished product will be knurled and pressed together.

[754]

When you blew the first replaced clutch did you have freeplay.?
 If you didn't,  and it heated up, it may have then started slipping.

[Lostboy Steve]

Yes sir i did. I think I had way too much freeplay.

[Lostboy Steve]

Here's what I have now. I may have him take just a literal hair off, my adjustment is now maxed in turbojet direction and cables are turned in almost all the way.

[Lostboy Steve]

And here it is finished and press fit together. I had him remove about another 1/16 just to get a little bit more adjustment.

[Lostboy Steve]

Well, everything is better adjustment wise, but now (much like when I had the EBC kit installed) the clutch chatters if you try to slip it. Why can't I win?