Topic: Basic electrical and rewiring of ignition / controls - Honda CB400F 1976

[JonasP]

Hi guys. I'm not really new to this forum, but all new to posting questions, hope you guys can help me out with some basics on the electrical and some rewiring.

I'm doing a complete rebuild of a Honda CB400F from '76, but learning it all as I go from manuals and forums. I'm finally at the electrical and I've been searching the web for ages and been looking at similar topics, but I can't seem to find the answers I'm looking for - something precise. It looks like everybody got different ways of doing their wiring, so every topic and set of answers goes in every direction. But anyways, to the questions

First of all I've been reading about wiring and electrics for a while, so I got a basic knowledge of how it all works and how to read my wiring diagram, but as I mentioned; this is my first time doing this, so bear with me.

Wiring diagram: http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-fansite/honda_wiring_diagrams/CB400F.jpg

1) Grounds: Just painted the bike, so I reckon I need to scrape some of the paint off to get good grounds? How do I make sure the grounds are good? Bare metal, a washer and a bolt? How many grounds do I "need" on a CB400F? Is the Negative from the battery going down to the engine mount on the right side of the bike and then the green ground wire to the battery box mount? That should make the frame to ground and the green should mount the overall ground to the frame, right? So with the green wire grounded, would it be ideal to ground indicators and controls to that, instead of grounding it to frame? I got new indicators, taillight and headlight.

2) Identifying wires for new parts. I got some new parts home and I want to make sure which wire goes to what, before mounting it - just to be safe. My indicators got got a Red and a Black wire, how can I tell which is ground? Same question with a new taillight and speedo. Got a new speedo with light for indicators, high beam, and all that, how to tell the wires apart? My new headlight came without wires at all, I reckon the center pin is ground, then one side low beam, the other high? Again what is what? Sorry if this is just a stupid simple question, but I have to learn it from somewhere

3) Rewiring controls. So I'm trying to rewire my killswitch and ignition key switch. This is where it gets confusing for me. I want to move the ignition switch under the seat, so the original is way to bulky. I'm probably going with an ON/OFF key switch and removing the park positing. Is it OK to wire a switch with two poles with two wires on each, so I got Black and Brown on one side and Red and Brown/White on the other? That way the switch should turn on both engine and lights, right? The problem is amps? The switch I got now is a mini switch, only 2A 125V / 4A 250V. The wires in and out of the original ignitions switch doesn't seem bigger than the others, but as I can understand, the power to most of the bike runs through here? Is it possible with only 4A or with a relay? Got absolutely no experience with really btw.  The same with the kill switch; I was thinking of running the kill switch under the seat - not using at as a safety-switch, but as a small security against theft. I want to run 5 toggle switches in a series (SPST - ON/OFF/ON), but again I got some tiny ones, so they don't ruin the classic look of the bike. But the amp rating is again low; 6A 125VAC / 3A 250VAC. Would this be fine? I was thinking of just wiring them between the Black and Black/White to the coils. Just be sure. When wiring a series of toggle switches, should I run either the Black or Black/White through the middle pin of the first switch. Then either take the right or left pin and run a wire from there the to the middle of the next one and then again either run a wire from the right or left to the next middle pin, and so on?

Maybe relays could be a fix to some of the issues here?

4) Rewiring controls. I'm also rewiring my controls while I'm at it. Again toggle switches and momentary switches. Momentary switches for horn and starter. Would horn button be Light Green on one side and ground on the other? Just running the ground directly on the green? And the same with the starter button Red/Yellow on one side and ground on the other. Would a small momentary switch be alright handling the wire to the solenoid? For high/low-beam and indicators I got toggle switches again (SPST - 6A 125VAC / 3A 250VAC). This should be fine I believe? With the High/Low-Beam i got 4 wires originally. I reckon i need high (blue) on one side and low (white/black) one the other. And then a power supply? Would this be the black (hot?) or is the brown/white running from the ignitions? Or do I need both? Same with the toggle for indicator lights. Grey from the flasher relay in the middle pin and then Orange and Light Blue one the right and left?

I got manuals, wiring diagram, solderingiron, wires, connectors, multimeter and probably some other stuff lying around.

Sorry for the long first post, but I find it easier to help  if you have all - or at least most -  information from the start. Thanks guys

// Jonas

[calj737]

1) Grounds: Just painted the bike, so I reckon I need to scrape some of the paint off to get good grounds? How do I make sure the grounds are good? Bare metal, a washer and a bolt? How many grounds do I "need" on a CB400F?
The battery definitely needs a clean metal connection to the frame and motor. I would encourage you to make the wire direct, and only as done stock (meaning no other "intermediate connections".

Each of your components (indicators, horn, light, gauges, etc) need their own ground. Some devices use the housing as their ground, modern devices use a ground wire.

2) Identifying wires for new parts. I got some new parts home and I want to make sure which wire goes to what, before mounting it - just to be safe. My indicators got got a Red and a Black wire, how can I tell which is ground? Same question with a new taillight and speedo. Got a new speedo with light for indicators, high beam, and all that, how to tell the wires apart? My new headlight came without wires at all, I reckon the center pin is ground, then one side low beam, the other high? Again what is what? Sorry if this is just a stupid simple question, but I have to learn it from somewhere
In 99% of these cases, Red is power, Black is ground. But you can take the device and use a battery and touch the red wire directly to POS and black to NEG and see if the light works. If so, you know your scheme.

All of these devices come with wiring diagrams, so your answers to "which is this?" is provided in the diagrams. If you need further clarification, post a picture of the device and the model # and I'm sure we can detail it for you.

3) Rewiring controls. So I'm trying to rewire my killswitch and ignition key switch. This is where it gets confusing for me. I want to move the ignition switch under the seat, so the original is way to bulky. I'm probably going with an ON/OFF key switch and removing the park positing. Is it OK to wire a switch with two poles with two wires on each, so I got Black and Brown on one side and Red and Brown/White on the other? That way the switch should turn on both engine and lights, right? The problem is amps? The switch I got now is a mini switch, only 2A 125V / 4A 250V. The wires in and out of the original ignitions switch doesn't seem bigger than the others, but as I can understand, the power to most of the bike runs through here? Is it possible with only 4A or with a relay? Got absolutely no experience with really btw.  The same with the kill switch; I was thinking of running the kill switch under the seat - not using at as a safety-switch, but as a small security against theft. I want to run 5 toggle switches in a series (SPST - ON/OFF/ON), but again I got some tiny ones, so they don't ruin the classic look of the bike. But the amp rating is again low; 6A 125VAC / 3A 250VAC. Would this be fine? I was thinking of just wiring them between the Black and Black/White to the coils. Just be sure. When wiring a series of toggle switches, should I run either the Black or Black/White through the middle pin of the first switch. Then either take the right or left pin and run a wire from there the to the middle of the next one and then again either run a wire from the right or left to the next middle pin, and so on?

Maybe relays could be a fix to some of the issues here?

4) Rewiring controls. I'm also rewiring my controls while I'm at it. Again toggle switches and momentary switches. Momentary switches for horn and starter. Would horn button be Light Green on one side and ground on the other? Just running the ground directly on the green? And the same with the starter button Red/Yellow on one side and ground on the other. Would a small momentary switch be alright handling the wire to the solenoid? For high/low-beam and indicators I got toggle switches again (SPST - 6A 125VAC / 3A 250VAC). This should be fine I believe? With the High/Low-Beam i got 4 wires originally. I reckon i need high (blue) on one side and low (white/black) one the other. And then a power supply? Would this be the black (hot?) or is the brown/white running from the ignitions? Or do I need both? Same with the toggle for indicator lights. Grey from the flasher relay in the middle pin and then Orange and Light Blue one the right and left?

You've asked quite a few questions here...
You can replace the stock switches with momentary switches but you then need a very different harness wired. Stock, the power is transferred through the handlebar controls on its way to the components. Momentary switches pass only ground in their best application. So, you will need to route a power wire (stock Honda is BLACK, BROWN, or BRWN/WHT) to the component, and then provide the ground from the momentary. This has drawbacks too for things like HI/LO, START/KILL, etc. Relays are best used in these applications or Toggle switches with proper amp rating.

The key switch needs a direct connection to battery POS (typically the switch's RED wire). The other branches (BLK.BR, BR/WHT) would be served from the other side when switched. You can use a relay to assist with that too.

I got manuals, wiring diagram, solderingiron, wires, connectors, multimeter and probably some other stuff lying around.

Sorry for the long first post, but I find it easier to help  if you have all - or at least most -  information from the start. Thanks guys

// Jonas

So start taking some detail pictures of your devices, and model info, diagrams by device (you can simply list the wire colors too) and we can help you get it done.

A few things about custom wiring: you need to decide early about whether you are going to use intermediate connectors to allow service of the component, or you plan to "hard wire" things. Stock, the devices had bullet type or plastic connectors. If you are going to use a similar technique, plan for where things will be early. Use proper gauge wire, properly crimped ends, and covered with heat shrink. DON'T use crappy plastic covered crimps and connectors and expect your bike to be reliable.

I also suggest you don't wrap your harness with tape unless you are 100% certain everything works, and your charging system is functioning at 100%. I prefer polyester braided sleeving and gang my wires together by function or location, splitting things into smaller bundles.

Long first post, longer reply 

[Bodi]

"Hi guys. I'm not really new to this forum, but all new to posting questions, hope you guys can help me out with some basics on the electrical and some rewiring.

I'm doing a complete rebuild of a Honda CB400F from '76, but learning it all as I go from manuals and forums. I'm finally at the electrical and I've been searching the web for ages and been looking at similar topics, but I can't seem to find the answers I'm looking for - something precise. It looks like everybody got different ways of doing their wiring, so every topic and set of answers goes in every direction. But anyways, to the questions

First of all I've been reading about wiring and electrics for a while, so I got a basic knowledge of how it all works and how to read my wiring diagram, but as I mentioned; this is my first time doing this, so bear with me.

Wiring diagram: http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-fansite/honda_wiring_diagrams/CB400F.jpg

1) Grounds: Just painted the bike, so I reckon I need to scrape some of the paint off to get good grounds? How do I make sure the grounds are good? Bare metal, a washer and a bolt? How many grounds do I "need" on a CB400F? Is the Negative from the battery going down to the engine mount on the right side of the bike and then the green ground wire to the battery box mount? That should make the frame to ground and the green should mount the overall ground to the frame, right? So with the green wire grounded, would it be ideal to ground indicators and controls to that, instead of grounding it to frame? I got new indicators, taillight and headlight.
The original ground is a hefty cable from battery "-" to the upper rear engine mounting bolt, battery side. If you want electric start you need that big wire. Clean frame paint off both sides of the frame tab where it touches the wire terminal and the engine. Most components ground via green wires, some via their mounting bolts or from contact to metal. You need to have a smaller (18ga?) ground wire bypassing the steering bearings - from the main frame to the turning part.

2) Identifying wires for new parts. I got some new parts home and I want to make sure which wire goes to what, before mounting it - just to be safe. My indicators got got a Red and a Black wire, how can I tell which is ground? Same question with a new taillight and speedo. Got a new speedo with light for indicators, high beam, and all that, how to tell the wires apart? My new headlight came without wires at all, I reckon the center pin is ground, then one side low beam, the other high? Again what is what? Sorry if this is just a stupid simple question, but I have to learn it from somewhere
As a rule red will be positive, Honda harnesses have black for positive as it's switched and fused battery power. The headlight power plug is a standard and the connections are easy to find with a web search. For the indicator lights, standard 9V battery will light them enough to tell which is which. LEDs only light with plus and minus correct but will not be damaged if connected backwards.

3) Rewiring controls. So I'm trying to rewire my killswitch and ignition key switch. This is where it gets confusing for me. I want to move the ignition switch under the seat, so the original is way to bulky. I'm probably going with an ON/OFF key switch and removing the park positing. Is it OK to wire a switch with two poles with two wires on each, so I got Black and Brown on one side and Red and Brown/White on the other?
The Honda wiring schematic is complicated but complate for the OEM wiring. The keyswitch is particularly complicated. For a SPST switch, RED from the MAIN fuse (NOT direct from the battery) goes to one terminal, BLACK to the other terminal. Connect brown and brown/white together (solder and tape or shrinksleeve)
That way the switch should turn on both engine and lights, right? The problem is amps? The switch I got now is a mini switch, only 2A 125V / 4A 250V. The wires in and out of the original ignitions switch doesn't seem bigger than the others, but as I can understand, the power to most of the bike runs through here? Is it possible with only 4A or with a relay? You will need relays. The amp ratings for these type of switches are much lower for DC than for AC. Relay wiring will be complex but it isn't crazy hard. Got absolutely no experience with really btw.  The same with the kill switch; I was thinking of running the kill switch under the seat - not using at as a safety-switch, but as a small security against theft The kill switch is close at hand for very valid safety reasons - try reaching across to where you want the switch with your right hand as a bike in gear with a stuck throttle isn't so unusual. I say leave it on the bar.. I want to run 5 toggle switches in a series (SPST - ON/OFF/ON), but again I got some tiny ones, so they don't ruin the classic look of the bike. But the amp rating is again low; 6A 125VAC / 3A 250VAC. Would this be fine? No. You're putting 5 failure points in a chain. Plus the amp rating is too low. Forget this idea: bike thieves just lift the things into vans and drive off, hotwiring is totally last century. I was thinking of just wiring them between the Black and Black/White to the coils. Just be sure. When wiring a series of toggle switches, should I run either the Black or Black/White through the middle pin of the first switch. Then either take the right or left pin and run a wire from there the to the middle of the next one and then again either run a wire from the right or left to the next middle pin, and so on? There is no SPST ON-OFF-ON switch, the terms are contradictory. An SPST switch can only have OFF-ON and only two terminals.A ON-OFF-ON switch would be SPDT

Maybe relays could be a fix to some of the issues here?

4) Rewiring controls. I'm also rewiring my controls while I'm at it. Again toggle switches and momentary switches. Momentary switches for horn and starter. Would horn button be Light Green on one side and ground on the other? Yes Just running the ground directly on the green? Confusing: horn itself connects to ignition power (black) and light green, to beep , it grounds through the switch - to the handlebars on the stock unit. Your switch needs the light green wire and a good ground, wire or frame. And the same with the starter button Red/Yellow on one side and ground on the other. Would a small momentary switch be alright handling the wire to the solenoid? How small? There is a powerful inductive kickback from the coil that eats switch contacts, some switches are better than others For high/low-beam and indicators I got toggle switches again (SPST - 6A 125VAC / 3A 250VAC). This should be fine I believe? With the High/Low-Beam i got 4 wires originally. I reckon i need high (blue) on one side and low (white/black) one the other. And then a power supply? Would this be the black (hot?) or is the brown/white running from the ignitions? Br/Wh is the instrument light power. Or do I need both? black to centre pin, headlight LOW and HIGH to the outer pins. It also turns the front markers off for high beams: I suggest you forget (don't use) the markers as they are complex to connect properly Same with the toggle for indicator lights. Grey from the flasher relay in the middle pin and then Orange and Light Blue one the right and left? The original flasher switch is complex because it switches the front marker lights off for the flashing side. Without markers, you're correct.
Note that DPST switches connect the centre pin to the outer pin opposite the lever direction.

I got manuals, wiring diagram, soldering iron, wires, connectors, multimeter and probably some other stuff lying around.
have a fire extinguisher handy when you power it up for testing.

Sorry for the long first post, but I find it easier to help  if you have all - or at least most -  information from the start. Thanks guys

// Jonas"

[b52bombardier1]

I would do things one circuit at a time. Start with bike power to the key and then out of the key. Do one circuit and then test it. Don't move on until that circuit works.

Consider the purchase of a heavy duty 12 volt power supply rather than using your battery. I have a supply that can deliver 15 amps continuously and this eliminates long discharges on a battery that can damage it.

Working on rewiring a bike is tedious and is an elephant that has to be eaten one bite at a time for me.

Rick

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

[strynboen]

yes a auto fuse car battery loader..is fine for test.
.it can run all exp start motor..and do not burn Down the bike..its just click off the fuse..and you push it inn...and are ready for NeXT try..it safe a lot of burned fuses

[Bodi]

Just noticed your idea that the start switch grounds: nope. The 400F starter solenoid is grounded and gets switched power from the button. The stock button also shuts off the headlight when pressed to start.

[JonasP]

Thanks. Great replies! Alright just to take it from the top and work my way down to see if I understood you guys correctly - @bodi and @calj737. I'm not gonna do a completely new harness, maybe just check every wire in the old one and that remove what I don't need and add what I do.

1) For the grounds I'm reusing the big black wire from the battery to the engine and frame (photo attached). On this bracket, should i remove paint of both sides of the mounting hole and on the engine, so you got the bolt, then the ground wire, then the bracket and lastly the engine? Do I need to remove the paint wider out than the head of the bolt? Or is it enough with just a few millimeters within the radius of the bolt?

And for the green ground I'm going to ground everything to, would it be fine with removing the paint of the bracket for the battery box, a washer and then the bolt? (Photo Attached). Same question about how much of the paint I need to remove.

2) Perfect trick with the 9V. Didn't think that would be enough. But exactly what I was looking for. Checked the speedo wires and sorted them out - 2 grounds and single wires for backlight, indicator light, high beam and neutral. Should just be about splicing the two ground to my green main ground wire and the others to the respective functions, right? Like attaching my Blue wire (high beam in speedo) to blue from the headlight? And my two orange wires (indicator in speedo) to orange and light green from indicators? But the indicatores light up both ways - with red on POS and black on NEG and the other way around? Is that correct? Seems like it lights up exactly the same as well? Not LEDs btw.

3) With the controls I'm still reusing the old wires, so the red wire from my old ignition key switch should go to the fuse box (haven't checked). So run these two to the two poles and then a relay? Been trying to figure relays out. Do you guys maybe have link to a great website with some information or to a forum with someone trying to use a relay between the ignition and black or red wire? Do you run the red and black wire into the relay and then run a to different wires from the switch to the relay? And then just splice brown and brown/white. This would turen everything on, when i turen the power (ignition key) on, right?

Unfortunately I don't have room for a kill switch on the handlebar. Maybe close by though. Again its gonna be toggle switch - SPDT (sorry for the confusion before ). Can I run this 6A 125VAC / 3A 250VAC toggleswitch without a relay in the killswitch circuit? Seems like its just the power from the black wire you cut off with the kill switch? If I need a relay, then how?

4) Photo attached of controls.
Horn button Momentary - 125V 1A: I can see my old horn button is wired wrong. Correct me if i'm wrong; Light green on one side down to the horn, Green ground on the other, back to the main ground backbone. Then black power wire to horn itself? Shouldn't need a relay for that, when the switch is in on the ground wire right?

Starter button Momentary - 125V 1A: Well tiny. 1A I think it says - quite hard to read. Right now I got one ground to the starter button and one directly to the Starter. So again its the ground you connect to the starter when you push the button, and not all the power I suppose? @Bodi, just saw your second post, is this not correct? Seems like this ways in my wiring diagram? Still in need of a relay here? And again, how? I don't mind reading my way to the goal, I just can seem to find any examples exactly like mine. @Bodi, to your second post. You mentioned the switch turns of the headlight while starting, how does this work, and can I do that with the momentary button, or should I just ignore that?

High/Low-beam - 6A 125VAC / 3A 250VAC: @Bodi, you mentioned front markers off for high beam. What would that be exactly? I'm from Denmark, not sure if thats just common knowledge? Doesn't seem like something I need, so no I don't want to go through the trouble. How does it work in the original harness - just so I can remove the wires.

Indicatorswitch - 6A 125VAC / 3A 250VAC: Front markers in original indicatorswitch as well? Can I just connect the grey, orange and light blue as I said before without a problem then? I don't need that function. Here the power comes from the flasher relay with the grey wire right? Is another relay needed for the switch then? Since the power runs through the switch to either the right or left side indicator lights.

@calj737 got heat shrink and connectors, but don't know if these are the crappy plastic ones though? Posted a picture. Some wires I'll splice, but for the controls I want to use connectors, so its easier to get on the bike.

@b52bombardier1 and strynboen do you have a link to these? Just getting fuses and plugs for cars when searching. Would be nice with a device to check the system, and send power through it all without having to have the bike going.

[attachment deleted by admin]

[calj737]

Yes, those are the crappy plastic connectors. Don't use them. Better to buy quality connectors (usually come with yellowish covers. Or, use those, but take a set of needle nose pliers, yank the blue covers off, then cover them with heat shrink. Proper crimping tool is a must. I solder the wire to the connector, crimp/crush, then cover with heat shrink. But I'm wicked anal about solid electrical connections and keeping corrosion at bay permanently.

For your main ground to the engine/battery, just clear enough paint to provide for the lug or washer, no more is needed.

If your lights burn either R/POS or B/POS, just choose scheme and stick with it.

For your gauge, the single wire input for TURN will necessitate using a diode from your stock 2 wires (Orange and Blue) to prevent current bleed over. Else all 4 lights will burn when you activate the turn signals.

[JonasP]

Yes, those are the crappy plastic connectors. Don't use them. Better to buy quality connectors (usually come with yellowish covers. Or, use those, but take a set of needle nose pliers, yank the blue covers off, then cover them with heat shrink. Proper crimping tool is a must. I solder the wire to the connector, crimp/crush, then cover with heat shrink. But I'm wicked anal about solid electrical connections and keeping corrosion at bay permanently. haha, thought so. I'll try taking the plastic off, soldering, crimping and heat shrink. Don't want to wait for new connectors - but good to know for next time.

For your main ground to the engine/battery, just clear enough paint to provide for the lug or washer, no more is needed. Perfect

If your lights burn either R/POS or B/POS, just choose scheme and stick with it. Great, so I'll just pick the POS and NEG then.

For your gauge, the single wire input for TURN will necessitate using a diode from your stock 2 wires (Orange and Blue) to prevent current bleed over. Else all 4 lights will burn when you activate the turn signals.Makes sense! If I had two wires from the gauge, could I just hook the wires up?

[calj737]

If your gauge has 2 input wires for the TURN light, then connect left side to one, right side to the other. Another option is, use the Brown/Blue wire in your harness to connect to the gauge. This is the TURN SIGNAL BUZZER feed and it is spliced into both sides already and goes "active" when either right or left is selected. This obviates a diode for separation.

[JonasP]

Arh, clever! Thanks!

[b52bombardier1]

As to the high capacity 12 volt power supply, Radio Shack or eBay will have one. Astron makes a good one and try for at least 12-15 amps. Those lamps all pull a lot of current.

As to needing connectors - I like the OEM Honda style for period correctness. They have kits for this at:

Www.vintageconnections.com

Rick

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

[strynboen]

Danish/euro bikes dont turn off the light at start..they have a on/off /pos...-up-dovn light.. kontakt in the stock shifter..a small differentto the us modells

be care use 220 volt kontakts  they  often are not vaterteight ..and burns up in short time. and amp is for short burst..not auers of use...Danish klima saltvater rain-mostly abaut 5-15 deg..dont dry aut..so thepy konnektors /buttons..is a one seson trip..to hell.....

so best go vith so close to stock kontakts and svitches...or atleast bay some sea vater teight=expensive ..Sealed types

[JonasP]

@strynboen. Yeah, thats probably what confused me. I'm removing the on/off though. Just had to figure out which wires were fused power and which weren't. Think I got most of it down now. I'm still a bit confused about the solenoid. My wiring diagrams (plural) says Red/Yellow to starter button and a ground. I got the Red/Yellow to the button and a Green/Red that goes up to something? Maybe a clutch safety? It goes to a small square unit and to a button/trigger, maybe for the clutch lever (photo attached).

About the relays, I've found that they are the same for cars, so hopefully I figured it out. Ive done three diagrams I hope you guys will take a look at. The first one is for the high/low-beam with a SPDT toggle. Ill wire the ground with the toggle with only the middle and left pin, so the relay triggers when the toggle is pushed right. Which power should i use for the "trigger" in the relay though? Black (Main Fuse), maybe Brown/White (Head fused)?

Second relay: How do I use a relay on the Key Ignition switch though? I'm using a relay because my key switch can't handle the amps, but to trigger the relay I need power, which only comes from Red, directly from the battery (fused though).

Third relay: When I dissembled the starter button it had a black wire (power) and a red/yellow wire (starter solenoid), is this correct? The wiring diagrams says Ground. But if this is correct the I've used the black as pin 30 and red/yellow as 87. Then used a momentary button on a ground wire, but which power wire? Black? This should activate the starter when the button is pushed, correct?

[Bodi]

As a rule it's best to switch power to a device and have it grounded. True, a very few things in the factory wiring are the other way around. Regardless: you should use black "ignition on" power for all relay coil circuits (except a keyswitch relay, if you use one). If you use the red wire "fused +12V" power for this, the relays can energize with the key off: the coil current will slowly discharge your battery as the bike sits with power off.
Relay drawings look good. Just think if the power you want to use to activate the relay is controlled by the relay... that won't work!
The original starter button switch powers the solenoid, switching +12 to the yel/red wire. The ground is through the clutch lever switch (it should always enable the starter with clutch disengaged) and also the neutral switch via a diode (should enable starter when in neutral even with clutch engaged). To disable the safety functions - if you don't want the lever switch or its wires - just ground the green/red wire.
For a main power relay the keyswitch switches red (fused battery +) but instead of powering to the black wire directly, it powers the relay coil (other coil wire grounded). You also connect the red and black wires to the relay contacts so they're connected when the relay is energized. Ignition switch ON = relay energized = relay contacts close = power on black wire.
A 1A switch is not really enough for the solenoid. I can't recall its actual current draw but as I mentioned DC use reduces most switch types amp rating, plus the inductive load of the solenoid coil produces arcing that quickly damages switch contacts. You can "snub" the inductive kick with a capacitor or diode... using a relay is best with a snubber cap or diode across the relay contact for the solenoid coil. You will experience this kick if you hold the coil wires and touch them to a battery: when you disconnect, you get a good jolt from the coil.

[JonasP]

As a rule it's best to switch power to a device and have it grounded. True, a very few things in the factory wiring are the other way around. Regardless: you should use black "ignition on" power for all relay coil circuits (except a keyswitch relay, if you use one). If you use the red wire "fused +12V" power for this, the relays can energize with the key off: the coil current will slowly discharge your battery as the bike sits with power off.

Relay drawings look good. Just think if the power you want to use to activate the relay is controlled by the relay... that won't work!
Haha, well, no of course not. But then use Black for the 86 in both the High/Low and Starter, and black/yellow in the 30 of the High/low and black in the 30 of the starter? Then ground both 85s to Green with the switches in between? For the switches. Should I run a Green from the main ground to the switch, then from the other side of the switch to the relay 85, and then run a Black from 86 to the main power?
The original starter button switch powers the solenoid, switching +12 to the yel/red wire. The ground is through the clutch lever switch (it should always enable the starter with clutch disengaged) and also the neutral switch via a diode (should enable starter when in neutral even with clutch engaged). To disable the safety functions - if you don't want the lever switch or its wires - just ground the green/red wire.
Well I don't mind the safety functions, so my setups sounds right. I mean with the starter relay?
For a main power relay the keyswitch switches red (fused battery +) but instead of powering to the black wire directly, it powers the relay coil (other coil wire grounded). You also connect the red and black wires to the relay contacts so they're connected when the relay is energized. Ignition switch ON = relay energized = relay contacts close = power on black wire.
I didn't really get this part? Do you just mean that my battery is gonna drain if i put red on both 86 and 30 in a relay for main power? Would be perfect if there was a way of doing a key switch relay, so I can use a smaller key switch. But I can't see where I should get the power to power the relay. I can't really put my keyswitch on the Red before it goes in to 86.

A 1A switch is not really enough for the solenoid. I can't recall its actual current draw but as I mentioned DC use reduces most switch types amp rating, plus the inductive load of the solenoid coil produces arcing that quickly damages switch contacts. You can "snub" the inductive kick with a capacitor or diode... using a relay is best with a snubber cap or diode across the relay contact for the solenoid coil. You will experience this kick if you hold the coil wires and touch them to a battery: when you disconnect, you get a good jolt from the coil.
Hmm, so a 1A switch is still to small when i'm running a relay? I'm completely new to these electronics, so what would a snubber do? Would that be but in on the red/yellow after the relay, or is it for the switch. I'm a bit confused.

Thank you for the help though!

[JonasP]

Alright, so I think I got around the whole harness. Removed a lot of wires and put in some relay. Couldn't have done it without you guys help! Thanks.

I just got a few more questions - just to be sure:

1) I've attached a new diagram over my relays. All the relays are 30 amps. Right now I just soldered my kill switch wires together, until I can put a relay and toggle switch on the handlebars. I've already hooked up the relay and wires for the Starter Button and HiLow-Beam, but I would appreciate it, if you guys would make sure its the right setup.

2) I've made a diagram over the ignition switch. I've been looking around for a switch that could handle the amperage, but they're to big unfortunately, so hopefully I can run this through a relay.  Is it OK to connect the Red wire (fused 15A) from the battery and splice it to both Pin 30 in the relay and one pin in a 2A125V/4A250V key switch and then run a trigger wire from the other pin of the key switch to pin 86 and from pin 85 a ground wired. Or should i run the red wire to one of the pins on the keyswitch and then run a red wire from there to pin 30? Or does it not really make a difference?

With this setup, I believe the switch or the relay wouldn't drain the battery, or am I wrong? And lastly, when I run the red wire through only one of the pins in the key switch, then the current just flows directly through the pin and doesn't "strain" the switch it self right? Because the red wires goes through the switch to a trigger wire, which shouldn't take a lot of amperage, but when you trigger the switch and the relay, a lot of power runs through that exact wire, would the power go the switch as well then, or would the power just go directly through the relay, because the switch only take 1 or 2 amps and then goes to ground? This is probably a stupid question and some really simple "how current flows"-stuff - I just want to be sure I've done this correctly and be sure I've understood it all.

Thanks guys.

[JonasP]

Aaaand, the photo didn't attach. Here you go:

And while I'm at it, can the charging system and a 7AH Gel battery run a 35/35W H4 headlight bulb?