Author Topic: ticking noise only when given throttle... (Read 12434 times)

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #25 on:** October 22, 2016, 11:37:35 PM »

I like the trip meter readout on that photo

Sparco195 · « **Reply #26 on:** October 23, 2016, 01:11:40 AM »

Haha I know right. Pretty bad ass. That's probably how many miles my bike had when it started making noises.

I actually bought a full oil pump rebuild kit for it, comes with a new pressure sensor, and lots of o-rings. eventually I'll probably buy a full gasket set for the engine too because it looks like it needs it. Atleast for future to do list.

As for now I'm hoping this oil pump is causing the issue, and that it hasn't been going on for long enough to cause any major damage, but with my expirience engines and optimism don't go together.

calj737 · « **Reply #27 on:** October 23, 2016, 01:25:41 AM »

Often when that gauge is installed, whomever does install it neglects to install diodes between the TURN signal wires. So, you flick the blinkers LEFT and both sides light up and the idiot light on the gauge stays solid. Is this the type of behavior you're seeing?

I'll defer on the engine noises until you perform some surgery since you've already been given pretty sound (see the pun

) advice on how to proceed. But I don't think you're at the "tear it all down yet" point.

If you don't yet have a manual, pull one down from this forum and commence the 3k Mileage Service as described under the Maintenance Section. That will at least provide you some guidance.

Sparco195 · « **Reply #28 on:** October 23, 2016, 08:25:05 AM »

the light is actually intermittent like it's supposed to be, it's mostly when you go to turn the thumb switch left or right you have to juggle it around for it to make (I'm guessing) the contact to close the circuit. In other words if you flip it all the way left, notbing happens. But if you slowly apply pressure and bring it back to the right, half way between centered and full left, the light works. It also blinks really slow, but I think a new blinker solenoid will fix that.

I do have the shop manual, I'll start digging into it today.

calj737 · « **Reply #29 on:** October 24, 2016, 05:06:42 AM »

Quote from: Sparco195 on October 23, 2016, 08:25:05 AM

the light is actually intermittent like it's supposed to be, it's mostly when you go to turn the thumb switch left or right you have to juggle it around for it to make (I'm guessing) the contact to close the circuit. In other words if you flip it all the way left, notbing happens. But if you slowly apply pressure and bring it back to the right, half way between centered and full left, the light works. It also blinks really slow, but I think a new blinker solenoid will fix that.

I do have the shop manual, I'll start digging into it today.

Gotcha. Symptomatic of a switch that needs some rebuilding. Theres likely corrosion internal to the contacts. A slow blink can also be indication of a weak battery. But swapping to a new electronic flasher relay is a good choice. The stock units are mechanical

Sparco195 · « **Reply #30 on:** October 30, 2016, 12:16:06 AM »

Ok so I finally had some time to dig into it, everything looks amazingly clean so far, none of the o-rings were blown, but I did notice that the small round cilynder spacer things that fit into the inlet and outlet holes of the pump, I'll post a picture if I've lost you, I'm missing one.

Idk if That's enough to cause oil pressure to drop. Tomorrow I'm gonna get my gauges out and try to see how well it pushes oil through.

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #31 on:** October 30, 2016, 01:38:25 AM »

Fiche calls for two of those. Ya want two!

Sparco195 · « **Reply #32 on:** October 30, 2016, 09:48:54 AM »

Alright so the good news is I found the 2nd ring, it actually fell into my drain pan when I removed the pump. Whew! Now time to replace all the o rings.

When I bolt everything up I was thinking of running marvel mystery oil through everything with new oil. What's your thoughts?

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #33 on:** October 30, 2016, 10:15:49 AM »

Quote from: Sparco195 on October 30, 2016, 09:48:54 AM

Alright so the good news is I found the 2nd ring, it actually fell into my drain pan when I removed the pump. Whew! Now time to replace all the o rings.

When I bolt everything up I was thinking of running marvel mystery oil through everything with new oil. What's your thoughts?

Don't forget to test the pump itself, maybe clean the pressure sensor switch (if you don't plan to replace it)

Marvel Mystery Oil is not the best for a 550. Zddplus (zddp+) additive is what you want. If you absolutely can't help yourself and just gotta gotta get an oil additive.

Sparco195 · « **Reply #34 on:** October 30, 2016, 11:57:48 AM »

I did test it, I poured oil into the inlet and spun the gear and bubbles and oil came out of the outlet, I also got some feeler gauges and tested the gap and it's got nice fitment.

I am replacing the pressure sending unit.

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #35 on:** October 30, 2016, 12:06:05 PM »

Seems you got it handled sparco

Sparco195 · « **Reply #36 on:** October 30, 2016, 03:55:41 PM »

so i rebuilt the oil pump, cleaned out the pan, new pickup screen, fresh 20-50 oil, marvel Myst. oil (all i could find locally) etc.

start the bike after cranking for a few seconds to prime the pump, and...tick tick tick. no surprise though right, wouldn't be that simple. oil pressure light is still on...

anyways after a few moments of some good ol swear words i finally said F it and took it out for a spin anyways. since I haven't even rode the bike yet.

the ticking would go away at certain rpms. mostly higher up. but there was never a consistent pattern for being able to control it, other than that the bike ran perfect. except the throttle response was non existent. rpms had to be built up slowly.

im afraid im going into the point of no return with this project. part of me wants to dump it for whatever i can get, while the other half wants to keep trying...

any new suggestions...obviously oil pressure is one of the main reasons.

need more help guys

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #37 on:** October 30, 2016, 04:47:23 PM »

Have you pulled the caps off the side of the valve cover? The rocker shaft bores on certain models can oval themselves out. Causing much ticking from the tappets

Sparco195 · « **Reply #38 on:** October 30, 2016, 04:54:26 PM »

Are you referring to the tappet covers? I have pulled them off a few times and have done valve clearances 3 times. I also took the valve cover off. I think that is my next move. Book in one hand with measurements. Caliper in other. I need to figure this out.

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #39 on:** October 30, 2016, 05:33:15 PM »

Nope, not the tappet caps, the cam covers on the end.

Pull it off, shine a light down the rocker shaft bore. It will be pretty obvious if the shaft is off center.

Sparco195 · « **Reply #40 on:** October 30, 2016, 06:51:53 PM »

Ok, the only thing I saw was the slits in the shaft were tilting opposite directions of each other.

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #41 on:** October 30, 2016, 07:08:42 PM »

Try to center a cross hair in the bore. to determine if the hole on the end of the shaft is off.

This is a normal 77 rocker shaft bore.

Sparco195 · « **Reply #42 on:** November 01, 2016, 07:48:59 PM »

BomberMann im afraid i only partly understand. i see the hole, is it supposed to go through to the other side? what if I stuck a small thin rod into the smaller hole?

I think i need more of a description than what you have given me...sorry

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #43 on:** November 01, 2016, 08:00:28 PM »

Nope, shaft only goes to the middle.

This thread http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=157629.0 may help

scottly · « **Reply #44 on:** November 01, 2016, 08:02:06 PM »

Quote from: Sparco195 on October 30, 2016, 03:55:41 PM

any new suggestions...obviously oil pressure is one of the main reasons.

need more help guys

Lack of oil pressure with nasty noises usually means worn out main and rod bearings...

Sparco195 · « **Reply #45 on:** November 01, 2016, 08:15:35 PM »

yea, the sound is getting a bit louder after a quick lap around the neighborhood. the noise is getting really frustrating, after my oil change the noise it a bit quieter down lower rpms, but as it builds its like twice as loud as before...

should i just bite the bullet and tear the motor apart? I really dont want to do more damage than needed...

luckily new/usedish parts can be sourced pretty easily and with a fair price too...I wanna get it running good and reliable before i start spending money on cosmetic parts, and trust me, im getting impatient on starting that.

besides, the headgasket is leaking a little oil and the valve seals are leaking out the exhaust side, so either way i should probably take the head and jugs off anyways, i can check rod end play while im there too...seems like a pretty solid direction, I think.

calj737 · « **Reply #46 on:** November 02, 2016, 05:06:23 AM »

Sounds like you have the need to pull apart the top end already, so you might as well. Just be prepared that whatever the "ticking" noise is, may still be there afterwards or fixed as a result of "other, unrelated" work. Sometimes you never discover the culprit, sometimes you do see plain evidence.

Sparco195 · « **Reply #47 on:** November 02, 2016, 06:52:13 AM »

I hope that's not the case haha. I found a guy pretty close by who is selling a ton of engine parts for good prices. I found him on ebay, I think I'm gonna drive down there to him this weekend and see what kind of deals we can work out.

It's winter it's cold, and rainy, lot of debris on the road that like to cake the bike, there's no better time than now to take this job on.

Sparco195 · « **Reply #48 on:** November 03, 2016, 08:35:13 PM »

so i bought a $10 endoscope off amazon, and put it down each bore, so far everything looks ok but I can only see about 75% of the piston surface because the spark plug hole is off set. ill try to post the pictures i took

I might take the scope and send it down the cam chain guide and tentioner holes to see if the chain is loose or worn.

after that I'm just gonna bite the bullet and tear it all apart. the gaskets look like they need it and i already purchased the complete gasket set.

any other recommendations?

Sparco195 · « **Reply #49 on:** November 04, 2016, 07:37:39 PM »

Alright guys, so i tore it apart last night, the pistons (after wiping them off) look like they are pretty much brand new, with a 3.00 overbore. i put the crank at TDC for each set and pulled up and down on the connecting rods and left and right. so far there was no play up and down, and hardly any, if at all, left and right.

before i removed the jug, i observed the movement of the pistons in the bore, after cranking the kick start by hand about 10 times i noticed huge puddles of oil, now present, on both sides of the jug, via the oil passages. so that seems like a good sign to me. but, Closer examination of the head itself, it was actually considerably dry! hardly any oil coating the cam and valve heads, the tappet covers were completely dry too. and above all that, one side had deeper oil pools then the other side...

I'm thinking the pressure is being blocked off somewhere between the head and block? maybe its building up too much pressure and that's why the headgasket cracked (right by the oil passage on the jug.) I would like to buy all new valve stem seals and check all the valves as well as lap them, and possibly spray some carb cleaner or some other cleaner through the oil passage holes to see if they are clogged.

thoughts?

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Author Topic: ticking noise only when given throttle... (Read 12434 times)