Topic: ticking noise only when given throttle...

[Sparco195]

[Sparco195]

[Sparco195]

I was thinking about getting some brake cleaner and cleaning the piston faces up pretty nicely.

How bad does everything look? What looks like it needs to be replaced?

[BomberMann650]

Its not that bad. 

Clean everything.  Especially those oil passages!

[Sparco195]

Alright good.

By the way, when looking into the crank holes, below the pistons, how much oil should I see pooling there?

[BomberMann650]

Alright good.

By the way, when looking into the crank holes, below the pistons, how much oil should I see pooling there?

About 4 to 5 quarts unless you already drained it

[enwri]

No. 4 piston seems to have been hitting the combustion chamber. The only way that happens is a collapsed/spun/missing rod bearing or completely wasted little end. That bottom end needs looking at as well.

[BomberMann650]

No. 4 piston seems to have been hitting the combustion chamber. The only way that happens is a collapsed/spun/missing rod bearing or completely wasted little end. That bottom end needs looking at as well.

I see it now on 2nd look - That explains the silver ring on #4

[Sparco195]

Heres my cleaning job so far, the passages were sorta struggling with letting brake cleaner through at first but after hitting the passages with air they were allowing fluid through very easily.

So pull the bottom end then? Probably wouldn't hurt. I was thinking of removing the engine anyways so I could give the frame a good cleaning.

[BomberMann650]

hard to see any damage to the dome on #4 - so enwri is probably right about the con rod on that piston.

[Sparco195]

Interesting pattern here. #4 piston has signs of excessive wear, as well as #4 intake rocker, and that's the side with the least amount of oil in the head....

[BomberMann650]

Interesting pattern here. #4 piston has signs of excessive wear, as well as #4 intake rocker, and that's the side with the least amount of oil in the head....

OP air blasted the oil passages open.

But how that effected the piston and combustion chamber is odd.

[Sparco195]

Alright guys, so I finally had some time to pull the engine from the frame and get the pistons off...well you guessed it, no. 4 rod wiggled alot up and down! I'll post a video of it.

That's def the issue. I'm very glad I decided (all credit to you guys, thank you so much everybody.) to dig deeper.

Couple questions, any tips on how go remove the alternator rotor? I think i do have the puller, but I just can't loosen the bolt! It is standard threaded or lefty? Do I need to remove the rotor? I'll try my impact on it today, as it was getting pretty late when I got to that point last night

are retaining clips and wrist pins reusable?

Aren't their numbers stamped on the back of the crank cases to display what model of engine it is? Mine has a bunch of "C"s stamped on the back.

While I'm here I'm gonna rebuild the forks and paint the frame and get some welding done for an aftermarket seat I ordered.

[BomberMann650]

You'll need new retaining clips - probably would be better to NOT reuse the wrist pin; at least not the one from #4

[Sparco195]

Will do! But how to I buy the retaining clips and wrist pin wiout knowing the piston brand? Are they just universal/same as stock? They are supposedly 600cc big bore pistons with 3.0 overbore?

[Sparco195]

hey guys, sorry for the long wait, been pretty much stuck at the same point since youve last heard. been working on making a deal with this guy and picked up a nice 2000 sv650 with suspension swapped, cams, brand new riding gear, etc. something to ride while i tear into the cb.

They are probably from CruzinImage. When you get them loose, post a picture, that will tell you lots.

now, they do look a lot like the CruzinImage pistons on eBay (only place i can find them currently) but do i need to contact them to buy the retaining clips? all i can find are +3.00 rings and head gasket. do they have a website? 

[BomberMann650]

Sv650's are cool.  Test rode the k9 "gladius" model once.  Felt real good.

One of these days I might be able to afford a newer sv with the dual sparkplug heads.

[Pat_at_APE]

If the rod "wiggled alot up and down" then it's surely out of round on the big end ID.   Only a few ten thousands out of round is enough to make it unusable. 

Start shopping for a replacement. 

Also, replace all the wrist pins together.  You want a set that matches in weight. 

Regards,
Pat at APE

[Pat_at_APE]

Also, get someone to measure that rod journal on the crankshaft with a micrometer in a couple spots along the diameter.   It must be round also.   If not, we can repair the journal for you. 

Regards,
Pat at APE

[Sparco195]

hey guys! been a long time! we have had one brutal winter! working on the bike has been too much of a chore lately, but today I have finally returned to it.

i found someone locally selling a used crank shaft with connecting rods, bearings, etc. a complete bottom end. would it be a good idea to take both mine and this new one apart and combine the better parts of the two to make a better combination? or should i take mine apart and skip on buying it.

Im in the mindset that i basically want to just buy a bunch of parts all at once and just spend a weekend trying to get the motor all taken apart and try to really catch up on this project. Im under the impression that my current connecting rod and bearings and possibly crank are all toast. what are your thoughts?

also does anybody know the thread size or any tips on removing the rotor from the crank? that's where I've been stuck for almost 2 months now...


ALSO! why dont my intake manifolds have the screws for vacuum/carb sync! where would i hook it up! my intake manifolds have no screw heads sticking out! guys! what gives!?

[BomberMann650]

Aww man I just deleted my example pic of a basic flywheel puller on the lh rotor!  But it was easy to accomplish.  Loosen the big bolt, attach the three toed puller to a secure spot on the rotor.  Bring up the tension rod.  And tap the rotor a few times with a hammer.  Try not to jump when it finally comes free and hits the bolt flange

F model bikes with 022a/069a carbs had the sync barb inset on the manifold.  K bikes with pd carbs have an attachment point on the carb body

[Sparco195]

well, i already offered the ebay seller $25 and had to commit to it, luckily hes only about 45 minutes away so i was able to avoid the $25 shipping. oh well haha. it'll still be a cool paperweight if not needed...

for the puller, i have found with my research the bolt and thread sizes: 16x1.5 (most common one found so far) 20x1.5, and now im hearing 18x1.5. would just a universal 3 tooth puller work? im tempted to go borrow one from my buddy. 

very interesting about the vacuum ports being on the carbs, ill have to go take a closer look.

[Sparco195]

finally got the crankshaft out! but as i was painting engine covers and pieces and taking measurements. I noticed the crank bearings on the no.1 end of the crank look very worn, i didnt even bother to take and plastigauge measurements yet. i think i should just replace them first? i can post a picture if you guys want, but how do i find new/used ones that will fit? i noticed there is a number stamped on them? does that mean anything?

i really need to start assembling things back up for the summer

[RAFster122s]

Main crank bearings are green/brown/red? and you will need to plastigage the bearings to see how much wear you have. What does your crank look like? If it shows wear you may need to address this.
APE in Cali can lighten if you wish and service your crank and repair any problems and rebalance it.
good idea to have a great SOHC familiar shop like APE to do this kind of work. Or have Mike R. in Mass have the work done at a place he works with. Another shop that can deal with it is in MI, CycleX.

[Sparco195]

the bearings are brown ish on the back side.

two of the bearings look really worn down, i think measuring how worn they are is just kinda pointless, when i need to replace them anyway.