Topic: CR 750 reinforced cam cover

[ratrap]

I can't seem to get any results from the search engine on this.
Are there any threads explaining how the cam cover is modified? Any pointers appreciated.

[madmtnmotors]

Since the site search is not functioning, a Google search with the suffix "site:forums.sohc4.net":

reinforced cam cover site:forums.sohc4.net

Results in:

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=reinforced+cam+cover+site:forums.sohc4.net

[slikwilli420]

This is a pretty neat old school mod. I used the method Frank suggested and was able to drill a cam cover very accurately. I also smoothed the fins off and just need to come up with some threaded pieces to have welded on the cover and I will be all set. You will see in the links that the quality of work varies quite a bit, from excellent to near horrible.

[Old Scrambler]

Cycle-X has them ready to go...............I use one on my C.B.R.

[Ericcb750]

Hey Old Scrambler, Just curious if you ever had any leaks on yours? I've been REALLY wanting to get a Valve cover with the cam tower supports and love the ones that Kenny does... I've heard from a few fellas who went that route that they ended up with leaks no matter what they tried to do to correct/fix. Something about the heat possibly warping the cover?

I  do see them on a lot of guys bikes and am wondering where is the best place to get this done because I would love a nice valve cover with those supports.... Going to be running a WebCam 63A in my 836 Wiseco JMR ported motor and figured it wouldn't hurt, plus they look awesome in my opinion. Thanks for any info. Take it easy guys.

[livefast_dieold]

I'm very happy with how I've solve the problem, check pictures here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=151515.0

[754]

Really easy to get the cover flat after welding, if it needs it.
A lot of times the welds can look pretty rough, on some I have seen.

[Old Scrambler]

No Leaks on mine............with the standard gasket   Now installed the thicker Cycle-X gasket after the mandatory tear-down at the salt-flats. To check your cover for flatness, lay a good piece of glass on a firm and level surface such as a desk. Cover with any medium-grit sandpaper and rotate the cover until all is level. Since the 41A does not require HD-springs, you may be doing this just for the  factor. If you leave the rocker-pins 'loose' you will likely hear some extra rocker noise. If you use the full-rotation pins you may not notice. I have the one-sided scalloped pins in my K3 and they clatter at idle.

[Ricky_Racer]

Okay, Old Scrambler... You've thrown something new at me. Can you please clarify/elaborate/explain "If you leave the rocker-pins 'loose' you will likely hear some extra rocker noise. If you use the full-rotation pins you may not notice. I have the one-sided scalloped pins in my K3 and they clatter at idle."

I'm just not acquainted with these terms. Thanks!

RR

[Old Scrambler]

R-R...........The rocker-pins on my early K3 do not have the full-waist centers so when I left the pin-fasteners out as the factory did in on the K0 motors, they tend to rock against the tower-stud that keeps them from sliding out. 

[Ricky_Racer]

Thanks, Bro. Yes, I knew of the mod Hondaman suggested long ago, but I wasn't sure about the "one-sided scallop" term. Thanks for the clarification!

RR

[ratrap]

many thanks!

[MessnerMoto]

I tried to mimic cyclex cover. I had a problem in taping threads in slope holes, on sides of cover. Did not manage... Do you have any suggestions? and what glue you were using for inserts? I was planing to use locktight 2701

[madmtnmotors]

I had a problem in taping threads in slope holes, on sides of cover. Did not manage... Do you have any suggestions?

Unplug your drill press and chuck the tap into the drill press. Leaving the drill press unplugged, set the valve cover up on the drill press table, lower the spindle, align the hole with the tap, and turn the spindle by hand. Once you've got 4 or 5 threads started (or tapped clear through) then move the valve cover over to the next hole.

EZPZ

[MessnerMoto]

I had a problem in taping threads in slope holes, on sides of cover. Did not manage... Do you have any suggestions?

Unplug your drill press and chuck the tap into the drill press. Leaving the drill press unplugged, set the valve cover up on the drill press table, lower the spindle, align the hole with the tap, and turn the spindle by hand. Once you've got 4 or 5 threads started (or tapped clear through) then move the valve cover over to the next hole.

EZPZ

Thanks. I tried something similar. Tap was bouncing from higher side of the hole. Maybe I was not that careful. What tap did you use? And what glue?

[slikwilli420]

Are you trying to make inserts to thread into the cover that will also have internal threads for the bolts? Your best bet is to make the plugs and have a competent welder attach them, then final drill and tap. That is the approach I am taking. To decrease the chance of warpage, I will likely bolt the cover to an aluminum plate, maybe 3/8-1/2"

[Old Scrambler]

Whether inserts or plugs...........be careful about how tall they will stand above the cover. Too tall will cause problems with frame clearance. I used blue lock-tight with allen-heads.

[madmtnmotors]

I had a problem in taping threads in slope holes, on sides of cover. Did not manage... Do you have any suggestions?

Unplug your drill press and chuck the tap into the drill press. Leaving the drill press unplugged, set the valve cover up on the drill press table, lower the spindle, align the hole with the tap, and turn the spindle by hand. Once you've got 4 or 5 threads started (or tapped clear through) then move the valve cover over to the next hole.

EZPZ

Thanks. I tried something similar. Tap was bouncing from higher side of the hole. Maybe I was not that careful. What tap did you use? And what glue?

I have yet to try this, but it would seem like the approach I would start with. The valve cover might have to be secured to the table and the first "bite" could be painfully slow until the high side is cut. A tapered tap would seem to be the ticket as opposed to a straight sided "bottoming" tap.

[slikwilli420]

If you are worried about "bite" into the cover on an angled surface, you can try the right size endmill instead. They come in any size needed. I would start with 1/4" and go from there.

[754]

I wouldnt tap the cover, drill the cover, may need a flat are cut for inseet, insert plugs and weld , then tap.

[MessnerMoto]

I tried with M10x0.75 tap.  I think I will need to make guided tap. At the beginning rounded part around 9.2mm (Hole for m10x0.75) and at the end tap...

I dont wand to weld it ruins the look

[madmtnmotors]

I wouldnt tap the cover, drill the cover, may need a flat are cut for inseet, insert plugs and weld , then tap.

I believe he is wanting to do a threaded insert with both external threads (to thread into the valve cover) that is threaded internally for the hold down bolt, similar to the CycleX setup.

Messner,
Where did (or do you plan to) source the inserts?

[MessnerMoto]

I made them locally .... I have M10x0.75 , and M12x0.75 inserts. Internal standard M6. 1eu per peace

[madmtnmotors]

I made them locally .... I have M10x0.75 , and M12x0.75 inserts. Internal standard M6. 1eu per peace

Sounds quite reasonable. Doubt you could have inserts welded in for that price. 

[MessnerMoto]

I made them locally .... I have M10x0.75 , and M12x0.75 inserts. Internal standard M6. 1eu per peace

Sounds quite reasonable. Doubt you could have inserts welded in for that price. 

What size of external thread you are using? And what glue for threads....