Topic: How do you know when it is time to replace the spokes?

[Beergineer]

I'm in the process of putting a CB750K4 back together and I have 2 front wheels and 2 rear wheels, both are over 40 years old.

How do you know if the spokes are bad? How much rust is detrimental to safety/performance?

[PeWe]

If you need new rims, use new spokes. Clean and polish the hubs before with new bearings and seals too. Complete refurbish. New tubes and tires on. Fresh and good!

If you have no plans to replace rims, why new spokes? Maybe if some of them are broken which is difficult to get with OEM rims.

[Beergineer]

I don't want to replace any part of the wheels if I don't have to. I've been looking for information on how to inspect spokes for wear. The rims don't have any dents or cracks, but there is some rust and the spokes are rusty. I want to know if it is possible for spokes to 'rust out' or if they can withstand a fair amount of surface rust.

[Don R]

 Some tarnishing and discoloration is OK, if you have flaking rust or if any are loose spokes give them some attention. Tap them softly and see if they all ring. A thud or dead sound means it's loose.

[Beergineer]

Thanks DonR. I'll be giving them a good inspection tomorrow. I am hoping to not need to learn how to lace and true a wheel on top of everything else with my build.

[Lostboy Steve]

Anything that has created pitting is bad. I have some rusty spikes that cleaned up with steel wool, so I blasted them and then powder-coated them. They've been great. Haven't even had to adjust them yet and it's been a few thousand miles.


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[jgger]

If the rust is in the "shaft" part of the spoke, then it would have to be pretty bad for it to be an issue. All the stress on the spokes is on the bent end where it goes through the hub. If it is bad rusted at hub then I would be concerned. If it is on the shaft of the spoke, then it just might be an ugly wheel.

[PeWe]

My old rims looked OK after 20 years storage in 2 different barns. I laced the wheels 1983-84. But rims revealed their status when I let them taste my Kärscher high pressure cleaner 2010. Chrome flaked off on both rims. New rims, spokes, bearings with retainers, seals, rear brake shoes w springs, cushion rubbers in rear hub, new tires....

Old bikes need a lot of stuff when restoring them. Saving money will affect the riding season in a negative way..

[przjohn]

How can you have a, "Build" while ignoring the wheels? I am with Pewe on this one. Wheel building is not that hard, and as far as expense, it can be done well with some ingenuity, elbow grease, and not a lot of cost. At the minimum I would recommend paying some attention to the bearings and seals. I had a rear bearing lock the wheel on an RGV250 in the Mountainous Curves of Northern Georgia, wasn't fun.

[Beergineer]

Definitely not ignoring the wheels. That's why I asked for advice. I'm not worried about being able to rebuild a wheel, I'd just rather not add another task to the project if what I have is good to go.

[whitjonw]

Unless the wheels were submerged in saltwater or the bike was recovered from a swamp in the southeast, I would just hit the spokes with a wire brush, knock off the noticeable rust and be done with it. That's my opinion 

[jonda500]

Surface rust on my spokes has never had any negative effects on my bikes aside from it being visually unappealing - if they have rust scales flaking off them or they're rusty at the elbows I would definitely replace them.
John

[Chachi]

You got pics? Fresh spokes and rims are nice, but not always necessary. If wheels are already off bike, new bearings/seals are a no-brainer. My only suggestion on the spokes (without seeing them) is if they pass your inspection, get the wheel checked out for truing. If you've got to do a lot of spoke adjustment and the old spokes won't cooperate, then that may force you to replace even if they checked out OK for integrity. If the spokes are decent and the wheels fairly true... I'd say bearings and seals and good to go. And check the inner rim by the strips/tubes - how bad is that? Lots of posts on how to deal with that if rough.

[grcamna2]

You got pics? Fresh spokes and rims are nice, but not always necessary. If wheels are already off bike, new bearings/seals are a no-brainer. My only suggestion on the spokes (without seeing them) is if they pass your inspection, get the wheel checked out for truing. If you've got to do a lot of spoke adjustment and the old spokes won't cooperate, then that may force you to replace even if they checked out OK for integrity. If the spokes are decent and the wheels fairly true... I'd say bearings and seals and good to go. And check the inner rim by the strips/tubes - how bad is that? Lots of posts on how to deal with that if rough.

Pull-off the tires and rim strips and take a few pics,lets have a look on here.

[nicks2319]

You'd be amazed what some time on the wire wheel will do to spokes. Took some heavily rusted spokes back to brand new looking the other day. Try cleaning them first.

[Beergineer]

Thanks for all the input. I'm getting new tires, so I'll see about pulling the worn out/dry rotted tires off tonight and get you guys some visuals.

[Beergineer]

I did not remove the tires, but I did do some investigating. I found that one of the rear wheels was actually a 17" rim, a fact I had all but forgotten about. That is the wheel I intend on using because I suffer from shortness. Half of that wheel was well protected from corrosion by a thick slathering of chain grease, the other side had some very minor pitting on the rim. The Spokes were tarnished, but not rusty.


The front wheel rim, devoid of chain grease, was much rustier but not too bad. I cleaned up the worst rust patch with quick-glo and found some rust beneath the chrome but it doesn't indicate structural damage. The spokes do show some surface rust.



The best news is that none of the nipples were frozen. I was able to back them all off a 1/4 turn with a 6mm wrench. Worst news is that they will definitely need truing, because they sound like a xylophone.

[Gene]

"Tink" all the spokes with a screwdriver - if you get a "ding", prolly ok.  If you hear a "thunk" - bad spoke.  I'm with the clean-em-up crew.

[Beergineer]

There are definitely 'thunks' in there. Is the spoke bad, or just not under tension?

[grcamna2]

There are definitely 'thunks' in there. Is the spoke bad, or just not under tension?

I'd spray all the spokes w/ WD-40,etc. a few times over the course of a day on both sides after removing the tire/rim strip and then get a correct fit spoke wrench and get each spoke moving so they can be adjusted;lots of times the threads will rust and the spokes aren't able to be evenly tensioned while truing the wheel.I always put just a tiny spot of Never-Sieze on each spoke's threads when i build a wheel so this won't happen over time and it should last for the life of the wheel;I wish the factories would take the time to do it when they manufacture them..

[Gene]

There are definitely 'thunks' in there. Is the spoke bad, or just not under tension?

May just be loose, or it may be rotted enough it can't be tightened up.

[evanphi]

FYI the nipples are not 6mm. They are 5.8mm. Make sure you are using the correct size spoke wrench.

[PeWe]

It is really fun to have fresh hubs, polished with new bearings and do the lacing, truing with new clean rims and spokes. Can be done in the kitchen without so heavy complains from a woman. 2 jack stands for the wheel axis and a marker pen that will show where to adjust when held with support by any of the stands and slowly moved to the rim until it touch and mark. Support by the floor to mark the other way hitting the other way to make sure that hub is truely centered.

[strynboen]

i have glass blast mine rims..and paintet them vith a good grounder and then gold metallic..then it looks like new..and hold up for rust..if, use new spokes go for some kvality ones..crome flakes of the china made,,and sone stainless like to snap
..elektro galvanice the old ones,,is nice..i just dont have tryed it