Author Topic: JMR billet engine build (Read 22817 times)

frodef2 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 11, 2017, 12:32:43 PM »

Quote from: Old Scrambler on March 11, 2017, 11:26:35 AM

Its looking REAL good Nice motor work

Depending on your weight...........you may want to have stronger springs on the shocks

Hehe. Joking aside, my ducati actually have a single shock on the left side.

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MRieck · « **Reply #26 on:** March 11, 2017, 01:30:27 PM »

Quote from: FrodeF2 on March 11, 2017, 10:56:21 AM

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on March 11, 2017, 10:32:40 AM
Quote from: FrodeF2 on March 07, 2017, 12:35:36 PM

Engine in frame, and mock fitted the carbs.
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Are those Mikuni RS34s or larger?

Yes, they are rs34's. Bought them together with the head and cylinders from mr. Rieck.

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Frode....I apologize......I missed your message about the cam timing. I am glad you were able to figure it out. For future reference the Megacycle online catalog lists all the lobe centers/timing #'s.
Glad you are finishing the project......everything looks really nice.

frodef2 · « **Reply #27 on:** March 13, 2017, 01:42:45 PM »

Dont worry, i found the website myself. But the values on the site was the same as the cam card, and i thought i got an email from you with other numbers. I just used the values on the site/cam card.

Three small updates in the garage today.
I mock fitted the seat, to prepare for making it 2 cm longer. This pan is shortened 16 cm. Should have been 14.

Next i made a bracket for the exhaust. Since i refuse to cut the frame, i made use of the stock exhaust/passenger footrest holes.

I was hoping to use a Lockhart oil cooler adapter plate on this motor, but the filter housing does not fit between the pipes with the plate. Just the oil filter fitted for now.

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Camrector · « **Reply #28 on:** March 13, 2017, 02:20:47 PM »

Looking great. Are you making the seat longer in the front? I think the rear placement looks perfect. I always use the center of the rear hub as the terminus of my seats.

frodef2 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 13, 2017, 02:25:48 PM »

No, i am making it longer at the rear. I want the rear hump to hang about 1 cm behind the frame tube ends. Right now its flush, and it looks weird from behind.

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MRieck · « **Reply #30 on:** March 13, 2017, 08:14:01 PM »

I picked up one of the Ripple Rock 4/2/1 Hindle pipes. It is very, very nice. Hats off to Kemp and his brothers. I haven't fitted it up yet but they redesigned it to accommodate the oil cooler adapters etc which I also have.
I have run a long discontinued Hindle 4/1 which I have always liked but the 4/2/1 always provides better torque and just about as good top end #'s. Check out the pipe (and the 550 etc) as they are in Canada which improves USA buying power AND great fellas to deal with. Win/win.
BTW....I am not affiliated with them....just like to give folks a heads up on a great product.

frodef2 · « **Reply #31 on:** March 23, 2017, 12:39:46 PM »

Not much done to the bike lately.

I added some horsepower today.

Stole the idea from another users bike, and added the HRC logo to the oil tank.

Also added the new "drain plug" seen in the bottom of the picture. A new VDO oil temperature sensor for the Motogadget tachometer.

Frode j

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SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #32 on:** March 23, 2017, 01:23:46 PM »

Nice little surprise under the side cover!

I was also using the gold plug magnetic bolts on the bottom of my oil tank to collect any ferrous material.

frodef2 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 24, 2017, 12:28:48 PM »

A few pictures from today.

About to make 2 fork extenders for the marzocchi forks. I dont have enough room for the fork travel below the tree. 5 more cm should do it. Then the fork length should be close to stock.

Test fitting of tank and seat. Also removed the clipons and added the dragbar

4cm seat extension

From the welding

Frode j

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frodef2 · « **Reply #34 on:** April 01, 2017, 11:19:38 AM »

Small update.

I have turned the engine by the starter motor, and have verified that i have oil pressure. No rock crusher noises, so i must have gotten all the "gravel" out.

I have mounted the fork extenders, and they are barely visible.

Also started on the a new wiring harness to use the motogadget fusebox and the rfid key.

The wires are betatherm 145 1,5mm2 for the higher current loads and 0,5mm2 for normal current loads and sensors. All wires are clad with a braided sleeve.

Charge Regulator for the Anders228 generator upgrade, and oil pressure sensor mounted on the battery cradle.

Frode j

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frodef2 · « **Reply #35 on:** April 07, 2017, 12:07:33 PM »

Filters and rear shocks installed.

Finally have my desired height.

Frode j

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PeWe · « **Reply #36 on:** April 10, 2017, 03:39:50 AM »

Which cam? Megacycle 125-75? Often recommended to big bore setups. I think the hardwelded version is named 120-75

frodef2 · « **Reply #37 on:** April 10, 2017, 05:03:44 AM »

Yep, its the 125-75 hardweld. Recommended by Mike.

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PeWe · « **Reply #38 on:** April 10, 2017, 06:51:09 AM »

I look forward for your Dyno result when done.
I'll run a Dyno later on. I use 4-4 so that will restrict some.

frodef2 · « **Reply #39 on:** April 11, 2017, 10:29:39 AM »

Looks like i have a small oil leak. The valve cover bolts were a bit loose. So i have re-torqued them.

I hope the leak is from the valvecover and not the headgasket.

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frodef2 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 11, 2017, 10:44:40 AM »

Also, i have a clearance issue at the left shock.

Must check if the non o-ring chain is narrower.

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SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #41 on:** April 11, 2017, 12:15:07 PM »

A non-o-ring should give you a little more room to play with.

Syscrush · « **Reply #42 on:** April 11, 2017, 01:31:07 PM »

Quote from: SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan on April 11, 2017, 12:15:07 PM

A non-o-ring should give you a little more room to play with.

Another option to consider would be a 520 chain instead of 530, which would be narrower. Either option probably means more chain maintenance, but I would think that a 520 O-ring chain would be easier to live with than a 530 non-O-ring.

frodef2 · « **Reply #43 on:** April 11, 2017, 01:33:22 PM »

Well, finding offset 520 gears would be borderline impossible. The rear rim is a "tad" wider than the stock.

Frode j

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SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #44 on:** April 11, 2017, 01:43:07 PM »

Quote from: FrodeF2 on April 11, 2017, 01:33:22 PM

Well, finding offset 520 gears would be borderline impossible. The rear rim is a "tad" wider than the stock.

Frode j

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Devin at Cognitomoto sells sprockets (front and rear) for a 520 chain -- including spacers for rear sprockets and offset front spockets. https://cognitomoto.com/search?type=product&q=sprocket

frodef2 · « **Reply #45 on:** April 11, 2017, 02:18:15 PM »

Thank you for the link. I thought cognito was all about the front fork conversions. Never even considered them to have offset 520 sprockets, but i guess it makes sense.

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Bankerdanny · « **Reply #46 on:** April 11, 2017, 02:25:24 PM »

Devin's product line has exploded. His website is filled with drool worthy stuff.

Personally I covet his air filter setup for my 550.

frodef2 · « **Reply #47 on:** April 12, 2017, 10:13:30 AM »

Right after i stopped recording this video i noticed a gas leak. The gas hose had turned soft by the etanol gas.

Frode j

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PeWe · « **Reply #48 on:** April 12, 2017, 10:18:42 AM »

Your engine has some torque.
DID 520ZVM-X or similar might work. "MAX. 1200 C.C. Super Strong/High Mileage"
http://www.didchain.com/streetChains.html
DC has too: http://www.dc-chains.com/images/downloads/catalogue/2011/pdf/DC_CAT_EN.pdf
A good idea to check the spec if you'll get enough clearance.

I have a DID 530ZVM-X as spare for my bike. I have a tough chain on , DC 530 MZX Heavy Duty QX-Ring Gold, the old model with solid rivet link, tough to rivet.
Snap a chain when twisting the throttle is not nice. I have done it twice, no case problems. Twist the throttle with a loose chain, not a good idea

Oil leak, thats a real PITA! I had similar oil flowing on the same spot. I think it was either from valve cover or the cam studs. Check in the cavity where the plugs are. You can see the hole for cam stud in the roof and eventual oil flood from the rubber pucks under the cam holders. Check with finger or something if there is oil in any of them.

Sure not "assembly" oil before mounting the valve cover? I have got some oil I drooled outside that showed up later when engine was started and became warm, oil flowed to the left when I used the sidestand.

I really hope it is something simple.
Your build must use MLS head gasket mounted dry, surfaces are fresh as they must be, I doubt it can be the head gasket.
Maybe if you have used additional sealer as copper spray on the surfaces....
I used that on graphite fiber 836 gasket.... I learned...

Fuel leak.... I had same problesm due to bad hose from Biltema that you must have in Norway too. I searched for hoses made in Germany, England or USA.
I found Gates made in USA...

innovativems · « **Reply #49 on:** April 12, 2017, 11:52:13 AM »

Sprocket specialties should be able to hook you up

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Author Topic: JMR billet engine build (Read 22817 times)