Topic: Cutting thin gauge steel

[eigenvector]

I'm trying to cut some thin gauge steel - 22 gauge weldable.  Thick enough to provide some stiffness, but not so thick as to be unworkable without a torch.

Problem is, I need to shape it - curves, remove corners.  Nothing extravagant but it does need to be hacked down.

Snips won't work - it's just too thick for that, so my thought are using a Dremel with a cutting wheel.

Are there better ways to do this?  We're talking about a 5x5" piece of steel.  Round off sharp corners, remove long thin strips here and there - that sort of thing.

[Darren Jakal]

Bandsaw with the right blade. Or even a jig saw with the right blade and clamping.

Just a thought, dj

[754]

I think your snips are hooped. You need the colored handle type with more leverage ..
They make one with smaller jaws that cuts thicker easier..
 But I dont think 30 thou 22 ga... Should be hard to cut.

[eigenvector]

To be honest I didn't even try snips.  I just assumed they wouldn't work - "Sheet metal - no problem, that's why they exist" but 22 gauge is getting beyond their capability.

If you're telling me that it should work - I'll give it a try.  Worse case it simply doesn't work and I have to go back to a cutting wheel.

Darren if I had the bandsaw blade for it I'd go that route no question.  My bandsaw is geared for woodworking - I don't have the blades for metal work.

[madmtnmotors]

To be honest I didn't even try snips.  I just assumed they wouldn't work - "Sheet metal - no problem, that's why they exist" but 22 gauge is getting beyond their capability.

If you're telling me that it should work - I'll give it a try.  Worse case it simply doesn't work and I have to go back to a cutting wheel.

Darren if I had the bandsaw blade for it I'd go that route no question.  My bandsaw is geared for woodworking - I don't have the blades for metal work.

Having been a sheet metal worker for 35 years now, I have no issues cutting up to 18 gauge galvanized or black iron (22 gauge stainless) with tin snips. Not the long blade "pattern snips" but the smaller blade green or red handled snips. I prefer the offset jaws like the Midwest Snips:

https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Tool-Cutlery-MWT-6510C-Aviation/dp/B00OCGQG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488135107&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest+tin+snips

http://www.sears.com/midwest-snips-2-pc-snip-set-offset-aviation/p-00942894000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=CK74vNC3rtICFYUfhgodh4MJEA&gclsrc=aw.ds

[eigenvector]

That actually worked pretty good.

I had to put some 'oomph' into it, but I'm not using machinist quality equipment (and the blades are probably pretty dull to boot).

But, it worked, and I have a muffler bracket!

[754]

22ga , I cant see holding a muffler up for long..
Rule of thumb, on bandsaw blades... 3 teeth touching the work or it usually wrecks teeth.. Beware.
 Madmtn, I have a METABO electric shear that just rips thru 16 guage..its the treat to use.. Love it.

[eigenvector]

22ga , I cant see holding a muffler up for long..
Rule of thumb, on bandsaw blades... 3 teeth touching the work or it usually wrecks teeth.. Beware.
 Madmtn, I have a METABO electric shear that just rips thru 16 guage..its the treat to use.. Love it.

Doesn't have to last for long and it's not like that's the entire bracket either.

[Darren Jakal]

Yea, Frank is right, 22 gauge is pretty thin for a saw.

For curves and such a nibbler could work and I have used stainless medical shears to cut some thin metals, but I don't remember what gauge.

Cheers, Darren

[ofreen]

I bought one of these long ago not expecting much from it because of the price.  I've done a lot of cutting with it through two jeep rebuilds, many other projects and it is still going strong.  It says 18 gauge, but I've cut a lot of 16 gauge with it.  I see HF has some other shears with decent user ratings, including an electric one.  I have one of the HF nibblers that I've used the hell out of and it does OK too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/pistol-grip-air-shears-98580.html

[eigenvector]

22ga , I cant see holding a muffler up for long..
Rule of thumb, on bandsaw blades... 3 teeth touching the work or it usually wrecks teeth.. Beware.
 Madmtn, I have a METABO electric shear that just rips thru 16 guage..its the treat to use.. Love it.

To talk about this a little more.

I actually think you're right in that the stuff I'm using - weldable steel plate (as it's sold), will rust out super quick.
it just has to be stiff, and generally approximate the final product.

The final bracket will be 0.04 aluminum plate - approximately 18 gauge and easily good enough to last.  Light enough that I won't have to hog it out like they did the original bracket, workable enough that I can bend it as needed.  Unlike 22 gauge I can cut this with a good bandsaw blade.

[754]

I would use at least .062...still be lighter than your steel one and easy to work..
 Way easier to make things from aluminum than steel and no rusting..

[firebane]

I would use at least .062...still be lighter than your steel one and easy to work..
 Way easier to make things from aluminum than steel and no rusting..

But not so weldable.

[Steve F]

"JUST"!  I can't weld alum. to save my soul (at least not pretty)  I'll TIG steel all day, but alum....I curse it.

[754]

Well I admit, easier to get steel welded than aluminum..
 They both have advantages, but aluminum wins most times on motorcycles..

[754]

The deal is there is 10 mig welders to every tig welder out there....not everyone here, knows a tig welder... And only about 8 on here know one they can trust.