If you do not know the key blank shape it is difficult to use the first guy Cal provided. Mark is aware of the key styles as many times the key shape changed over the years and even the profile for that code. The Passport (C70) and S90 are a couple of examples of this occurring.
You have to sleuth out the proper profile and code range for that key blank.
The other difference by Mark at HondaKeys are not cut via code. Why does this matter?
A cut key is going to have a break in the chrome plating. This over time fills your lock and acts like abrasive grit. Ever have a cut key made and the chrome wears off and you see the copper below it? Chrome worn off is still a hard metal. It wears out the lock mechanism over time.
So, I prefer a key that is not a cut key. HondaKeys had this available for many many bikes. Especially the 60s and 70s. Give you are looking for a 59 key, Mark is likely to have one for the bike.
Good maintenance on a lock is to flush it with WD 40 with a lot of WD-40 to try and force the metal shavings out of the lock. Naturally you want to collect that with a cloth to keep it from staining or discoloring the paint around the lock. Flushing the vertical oriented locks are tougher than those on the horizontal orientation. This was recommended to me by a locksmith who had rebuilt a lock for me on a car that I owned that was over 30 years old.
After flushing the lock you then use a graphite lock lubricant as the WD 40 isn't a good lubricant.
Flushing twice a year is a good practice. If you lube your cables at the same time, then you continue to have smooth cables and smoothly working locks.
I think someone once indicated that Honda cables are superior and do not normally require lubing. Not sure the rationale for that though.
David