Topic: A Noob's 75 CB550 Cafe Project Thread ------- Stick a fork in it... ;-)

[TwoTired]

Hi Doug,
Nice job on the forks.  Now you're an expert.  Do you do house calls?

I also tried letting the bike idle with the uni pod filters removed.   That didn't seem to have any affect on the carbon build up on the plugs so looks like the pods are not over oiled. 

Probably you're okay with those pods.  But, you really haven't done a thorough test, I think.  The idle circuits should be running pretty rich at idle and the cylinder temps aren't very high so burning off deposits is marginal.  The sans filter test was intended to be a ride around test with the engine making some power where the increased combustion temps have a chance to burn off deposits with the carbs operating off the slide needles.  As you will shortly be doing a jetting excercise, you might find a write up I offered for the FAQ useful for understanding what you'll be doing to the carbs.

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=5410.msg203462#msg203462

Cheers,

[doug_id]

Hi Doug,
Nice job on the forks.  Now you're an expert.  Do you do house calls?

I also tried letting the bike idle with the uni pod filters removed.   That didn't seem to have any affect on the carbon build up on the plugs so looks like the pods are not over oiled. 

Probably you're okay with those pods.  But, you really haven't done a thorough test, I think.  The idle circuits should be running pretty rich at idle and the cylinder temps aren't very high so burning off deposits is marginal.  The sans filter test was intended to be a ride around test with the engine making some power where the increased combustion temps have a chance to burn off deposits with the carbs operating off the slide needles.  As you will shortly be doing a jetting excercise, you might find a write up I offered for the FAQ useful for understanding what you'll be doing to the carbs.

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=5410.msg203462#msg203462

Cheers,

Morning TT   

Sure thing on the house calls....have tools will travel....      I am thinking I should quit my job and do this full time.   

When I get the new fork seals on and the exhaust headers reseated with new gaskets I will take it for a spin without the filters on.......that is if the the leak test passess.   Also found a compression gauge on e-bay that should be here soon......although kind of dreading what I will do if the results are bad.   

Thx for the link on the carbs.

Doug

[paxtonpony]

......although kind of dreading what I will do if the results are bad.   

What's to dread?  It runs already.  If your compression is bad, screw it.  Your bike is together and spring is almost here.  Too late to be having thoughts of rebuilds.  That can be done next winter.  Ride your bike with a smile.  Most importantly, go ride your bike.

[doug_id]

......although kind of dreading what I will do if the results are bad.   

What's to dread?  It runs already.  If your compression is bad, screw it.  Your bike is together and spring is almost here.  Too late to be having thoughts of rebuilds.  That can be done next winter.  Ride your bike with a smile.  Most importantly, go ride your bike.

true true.....

Just need my fork seals and then its back on the road.  Should be in time for the weekend.   

I really don't expect the compression to be to bad...if the rings were badly worn wouldn't it be blowing blue exhaust?

Doug

[Spikeybike]

compression test also tests the seal of the valves and head gasket , and yes it could blow blue smoke but not always

[doug_id]

Got the Raask rearsets on today.   I was having a lot of trouble getting the brake spline fitting to go on so I tried to pry it open a little more by applying a hammer to a screw driver wedged into the gap......bad move.....it cracked the fitting in half.   

Oh well,  after I settled down I decided to use the top piece and just drilled down thru it and the spline and ran a bolt thru both and tightened it down real good.  It should work fine for now.

Also put on the new dyna coils and wires I got from Z1 (man they are fast shippers).   Amazingly enough it seems to have been a good install as it fired right up and idled smoothly.  I was really expecting that I would have one of the plug wires going to the wrong location on the coil and the engine would be thrashing when I started it up. 

Also put the new fork seals on and reinstalled the fork sliders and front wheel on the bike.

Hope to have it back on the road tomorrow after I take another shot at getting the timing down.   Hoping the new ignition, coils, and wires will give me a stronger spark and help with the carbon build up on the plugs.   

Few pics.....

[mrbreeze]

Its all looking real good Doug!....I think you are super close to being ready for the 07 season!!! I remember a few years back when I put my Accel coils on......it made a big difference and then 2 years later and 5000 ft. elevation lower......I went to pods,rebuilt,rejetted carbs,and Dyna 2000 ignition .........what can I say?? It was a totally different machine. The next one I put together will be a long term project....big bore,cam,porting,etc.,etc.  ..... I'm really not in any hurry....I plan on sucking air for many more years!!!

[bill440cars]

     



       Hey Doug, Not really much to add. Your bike is still one impressive build and, even with setbacks, you've done yourself proud guy! My hat's off to you Doug!

                                                         Later on, Bill

[pablo78cb550]

so your the one who got the the sprocket cover!!

Got the Raask rearsets on today.   I was having a lot of trouble getting the brake spline fitting to go on so I tried to pry it open a little more by applying a hammer to a screw driver wedged into the gap......bad move.....it cracked the fitting in half.   

Oh well,  after I settled down I decided to use the top piece and just drilled down thru it and the spline and ran a bolt thru both and tightened it down real good.  It should work fine for now.

Also put on the new dyna coils and wires I got from Z1 (man they are fast shippers).   Amazingly enough it seems to have been a good install as it fired right up and idled smoothly.  I was really expecting that I would have one of the plug wires going to the wrong location on the coil and the engine would be thrashing when I started it up. 

Also put the new fork seals on and reinstalled the fork sliders and front wheel on the bike.

Hope to have it back on the road tomorrow after I take another shot at getting the timing down.   Hoping the new ignition, coils, and wires will give me a stronger spark and help with the carbon build up on the plugs.   

Few pics.....

[bgfootball67]

Love what you are doing!  It has been keeping me going on my project.  Those rear sets are nice, were did you say you got those from?

[doug_id]

so your the one who got the the sprocket cover!!

That old thing?   I found that on the side of the road......honest.   

Yea, he did a real nice job on it.  Good news is I am pretty sure he is going to be making and selling more of these on e-bay so keep an eye out.

Doug

[doug_id]

Love what you are doing!  It has been keeping me going on my project.  Those rear sets are nice, were did you say you got those from?

Thx,  I sure hope they work for me once I get out and ride with them.

I picked them up from Omar's   http://www.rearsets.info/rs4.html

Doug

[doug_id]

Pulled the exhaust pipes on cyls 1&2........yep leak / not sealed.   

Put them back on using two gaskets this time.   I ordered some honda exhaust gaskets the last time I got parts.   They look like copper o-rings...not like the other ones I had.   I put one of the honda ones in first then one pappery looking ones.   I sure hope they sealed this time......wish there was an easy way to check that. 

After this I hooked up the new tank and just for grins tried to tighten the clamps on in intake runners.....much to my surprise they were somewhat loose....doh
I thought for sure I had tightened them when I put the carbs back on the last time.   This could explain some of the carbon issues with my plugs.  Probably allowed an air leak.   So,  I tightened them down real good and  put everything back on the bike and took it for a 20 mile ride.   

Not sure the rearsets are better than the stock pegs or not in terms of comfort.   Just glad this is my fun / short trip bike.   Not something I would want to ride for 100's of miles that for sure.      They sure do make the take leg cutouts make more sense however.....my legs fit right in them perfect. 

Seemed to run pretty good.   A couple of backfires on downhill deceleration.

Pulled the plugs when I got home.   They all looked a little better in terms of carbon buildup.   

Doug

[TwoTired]

Pulled the exhaust pipes on cyls 1&2........yep leak / not sealed.   

Put them back on using two gaskets this time.   I ordered some honda exhaust gaskets the last time I got parts.   They look like copper o-rings...not like the other ones I had.   I put one of the honda ones in first then one pappery looking ones.   I sure hope they sealed this time......wish there was an easy way to check that. 

Three questions:
1) Why bother with the paper ones already proven not to work properly?
2) Does your (ahem) "tappet noise" sound any quieter?   
3) Do your plug deposits now seem even for all cylinders?

If so, you may want to start turning your air bleed screw out 1/8 turn at a time (all carbs) and then test drive to check for acceptable throttle response.  Keep turning them out, in the same increments, until you get the wheeze reponse to snapping the throttle past 1/2 a throttle total range change.  This will get worse as you turn the air screws out.  Turn them back in to where moderate throttle changes from low speed are acceptable to you. If the screws get too loose, stretch the springs to restore tension.    This should also help the back fire on decel with the throttle in the idle position.

Cheers,

Cheers,

[doug_id]

Pulled the exhaust pipes on cyls 1&2........yep leak / not sealed.   

Put them back on using two gaskets this time.   I ordered some honda exhaust gaskets the last time I got parts.   They look like copper o-rings...not like the other ones I had.   I put one of the honda ones in first then one pappery looking ones.   I sure hope they sealed this time......wish there was an easy way to check that. 

Three questions:
1) Why bother with the paper ones already proven not to work properly?
2) Does your (ahem) "tappet noise" sound any quieter?   
3) Do your plug deposits now seem even for all cylinders?

If so, you may want to start turning your air bleed screw out 1/8 turn at a time (all carbs) and then test drive to check for acceptable throttle response.  Keep turning them out, in the same increments, until you get the wheeze reponse to snapping the throttle past 1/2 a throttle total range change.  This will get worse as you turn the air screws out.  Turn them back in to where moderate throttle changes from low speed are acceptable to you. If the screws get too loose, stretch the springs to restore tension.    This should also help the back fire on decel with the throttle in the idle position.

Cheers,

Cheers,

Hi TT,

Well, the failure was not really with the gasket...more that the headers did not have perfectly even entry into the manifold.  After I took the gaskets out I could see where only one side was compressed.   I am thinking that with the two gaskets in there it will have more leeway (crush zone) to make a better seal.   I should probably pull the other two and check them as well.   Just hoping I got 1&2 to seal this time.   The # 1 pipe is a real PITA to get in straight.   

It seems a tad quieter now but nothing dramatic.  That makes me think they still aren't sealed completely.

Plugs 3 & 4 seem pretty good now.   1 & 2 are better but still have some carbon buildup.   I am going to do a compression test early next week as well as the air leak test.

New fork seal seem to be working well 

Doug

[bwaller]

Doug,

I'm sure you'll be happy when you work all the bugs out and the biggest thing you need to worry about is strapping your helmet on before you ride, huh?

I don't mean to add fuel to the fire, but did however notice that your new shift linkage is a little long. It may be difficult to downshift because of it. Your shifter shaft lever might be better situated perpendicular to that new linkage rod for better mechanical advantage.

Keep up the good work, that's a sweet ride.

[doug_id]

Doug,

I'm sure you'll be happy when you work all the bugs out and the biggest thing you need to worry about is strapping your helmet on before you ride, huh?

I don't mean to add fuel to the fire, but did however notice that your new shift linkage is a little long. It may be difficult to downshift because of it. Your shifter shaft lever might be better situated perpendicular to that new linkage rod for better mechanical advantage.

Keep up the good work, that's a sweet ride.

Yea, that will be a good day     Getting close though.

Yes, I noticed the shift linkage odd position.  It seems to shift alright as it is though.  I really can't make it shorter without cutting the long bar.  I can make it longer though and that would rotate the part that fits on the spline forward to a more perpendicular position relative to the bar.   I might try that see how it works.

Doug

[doug_id]

Those rear sets look pretty cool, sucks how it broke on ya.  They may not be any more comfortable but consider the cool factor plus you already mentioned their utility.  Any way you could get a longer bolt, put the broken piece on the bottom of the splined shaft and go through it as well, then secure it at the bottom with a washer and nut?  I think that would make it more solid and endurable since the pressure will be distributed instead of all of it going to the head of that bolt.

Im assuming you never got a fork brace?  Does it still seem to handle well without one?  Im just curious, Ive never rode without one and Im wondering how much a difference it makes.  Mabey bolt the fender up sometime and do a comparison through some twisties, with and without, see what you think.  Later Doug!  Go ride, have fun!

Yea...I was a tad upset after it broke...but that's what happens when you let yourself get frustrated and start doing stupid things to parts....hehe   

Hey, that is a good idea on running a bolt thru the whole works.  It would sure look better as well.   

I agree the rearsets are in keeping with the cafe style.   I went for another ride last night and was getting more comfortable with the whole setup.

Funny you should mention the fork brace as I am planning on taking a hacksaw to my front fender today.   Will cut most of it off and then shape it with my bench grinder.   I will either paint it black or polish up the chrome and then try puting some of the adhesive black car door trim around the edges to hopefully give it a more finished appearance.

I haven't really rode it hard yet thru any twisties......tires are still too fresh for that.   

Doug

[bill440cars]

I haven't really rode it hard yet thru any twisties......tires are still too fresh for that.   

Doug

               Yeah, I'm wanting to hear about the tire performance too, Doug. I hate that you've had the problems that you've had. But I'm proud for ya in that you've created quite Tough looking bike, for a NOOB. Just kidding with ya on the NOOB deal. You passed that stage waaaaay back there, in my opinion. Thinking seriously about those Dunlop K70s for my 550 (they did a good job back in the 60's on my bike) but I'm gonna have to look else where for my 750, cause it's got a 17" rear wheel. I'm hoping to find similar tires for it. Anyway, take care and enjoy.

                                                      Later on, Bill    

[Tim.]

If you lengthen the connecting arm on the shift linkage, the direction will reverse when you shift - i.e. pushing down on the lever will result in the shift arm going 'up'.  You should look at getting a shorter connecting rod.  If the photo is shown in neutral, then I suppose you only have one gear to go down into, but regardless, a slightly shorter arm would work better I think.

Of course I've never installed rearsets, so my opinion isn't based on anything 'cept my inability to keep my mouth shut

[doug_id]

If you lengthen the connecting arm on the shift linkage, the direction will reverse when you shift - i.e. pushing down on the lever will result in the shift arm going 'up'.  You should look at getting a shorter connecting rod.  If the photo is shown in neutral, then I suppose you only have one gear to go down into, but regardless, a slightly shorter arm would work better I think.

Of course I've never installed rearsets, so my opinion isn't based on anything 'cept my inability to keep my mouth shut

Yea....lol...I figured out how dumb my original Idea was....    Shifting backwards is probably not the best idea.   I managed to shorten it up a smidge by removing the locking nuts and tightening down the swivel pieces all the way.   It is a little better angle now.  Though it shifted fine the way it was. 

Raining like crazy here today.....!@#$@   

[doug_id]

I haven't really rode it hard yet thru any twisties......tires are still too fresh for that.   

Doug

               Yeah, I'm wanting to hear about the tire performance too, Doug. I hate that you've had the problems that you've had. But I'm proud for ya in that you've created quite Tough looking bike, for a NOOB. Just kidding with ya on the NOOB deal. You passed that stage waaaaay back there, in my opinion. Thinking seriously about those Dunlop K70s for my 550 (they did a good job back in the 60's on my bike) but I'm gonna have to look else where for my 750, cause it's got a 17" rear wheel. I'm hoping to find similar tires for it. Anyway, take care and enjoy.

                                                      Later on, Bill    

Hi Bill,

I will let you know how the performance is on these....right now really taking it easy as I don't 100% trust the tires and the bike.  I guess I will be wondering for a while if I did something wrong or forgot to tighten a critical bolt.....I half expect a wheel to fly off while I am riding it 

Here are a few pics of the bike with the rearsets on.   Other than possibly a extreme cut down fender it is pretty much done cosmetically. 

[bill440cars]

        Hey Doug,

                 I fully understand wanting to make sure the tires are ready fo some action and that you've got the bugs worked out of the bike also. There'll come a time when you'll start to feel comfortable with it and you really shouldn't get after it until YOU feel that you're ready. That's cool, I wouldn't expect anything less. The K70s did real well on my CB72 back then and I put it through the paces, I can tell you. I'm sure that I'm gonna put them on my CB77 Super Hawk, when I get started with it (which might be pretty soon, since things are starting to come together, thanks to parts from CBGBs, info from HondaMan  and other parts from a fellow off of a 305 site). Might be curious to see whether the 550 or the 305 gets finished first.
                 Doug, I just don't know what more can be said about your bike, that hasn't already been said, other than I hope you get many troublefree miles out of it. I know you're gonna get the looks, that goes without saying.     Nice shots of the bike BTW, thanks for posting them.

                                                            Later on, Bill

[doug_id]

Hearing that the front fender might provide a little bracing for the front forks but not liking the looks of stock fender with the cafe style.  So took a hacksaw to it front and back then used a bench grinder to shape it and smooth it.   Finally I topped it off with some polishing and some black automotive door trim over the raw edges.

I think it actually looks pretty nice....kind of compliments the headlight peek.   

A few pics......

[Tim.]

Very nice fender treatment.  Great addition.  Don't know if you covered it, but how did you machine the slots in the left sprocket cover?  Very nicely done.  Oh, and the rearset shift linkage looks WAAAAY better than it did before.