Topic: My 1ST ever K7 Build with 0% knowledge and 110% determination

[fiascoelment]

Hi Everybody!

So I have tackled something I shouldn't have but my stubbornness got the best of me. This is going to be a slow build also my FIRST ever build, I do not want to half ass anything. For the first year I am focusing more on the frame and suspension, wheels,  to have a complete roller but this time next year, and then after I will focus on the motor, gas tank, and renewing the electric systems (M-Unit Blue  maybe?) So below are details to what bike I am working with, and what I have done so far. Please, this is an open discussion and would like to hear from the community on what I maybe doing wrong and what I could do better.

So I picked up a 1977 CB750K for cheap on CL a few months back, in hopes in turning it into a neat cafe racer.
So far I have torn the bike down to the frame and have removed the frame tabs where the electrical were mounted since, I am planning to set up the electrical under the seat using the electrical tray I bought from Cognito Moto (https://cognitomoto.com/products/under-seat-electronics-tray-cb750)

I am holding off on removing the oil tank mounts on the right side of the frame until I buy the this bolt on oil tank to mount in front of the carbs (https://cognitomoto.com/collections/engine/products/bolt-on-cb750-oil-can)

I am also going to be sending my swing-arm to Hondaman, to be rebuild.

I have also grind off the seat mount to place a new rear loop and aluminum cowl also from Cognito Moto and Meyerbuilt Metal Works (https://cognitomoto.com/collections/frame/products/) (https://cognitomoto.com/collections/frame/products/?variant=32225554637)

I am currently waiting for the rear loop and cowl and now I have not done anything to this build for almost a month now, I am itching to working on it again but I do not know where to start since I do not have the rear loop and cowl yet. After I receive the loop and cowl and have welded it on the frame that is when I am going to have the frame sent to be powder coated.

I am open to suggestions on what I could be doing now, and or maybe in future. Below are some pictures of the bike and progress I have done

[calj737]

Sounds like you will have a neat bike when done.

I would swap the swing arm from the stock 750 to a 550 (provided that the 550 is still longer than the K7?) which will help handling slightly and allow a slightly wider rear tire.

You need to be careful about the rear loop. If it comes straight off the frame, it will frequently interfere with the tire under suspension compression (the stock hoop has the bridge over top to accommodate the rear inner fender). Just be mindful of that.

A frame kit would be a nice upgrade. This will allow you to install, service and remove the engine much more easily while still in the frame (service). A member here, Frank (754 username) sells these non-welded kits.

What upgrades are you planning on the wheels, suspension and braking?

[fiascoelment]

Anyone knows how to add picture using the attachments button in this forum?

Also I want to add a bit more information:

That the bike is a non-runner, however I do not think that the motor was seized, since I was able to kick-it and hear the motor would try turning over.
Another thing is when I picked up the bike the rear wheel was stuck, according to the PO the bike was still in gear.

Now my question is would I still would have been able to put the bike in neutral, even if the bike was not on/running?

[fiascoelment]

Hey Calj,

Thanks, I hope so too, and with the help of this forum it seems more possible, even with a person with my knowledge of motorcycles, but I am willing to learn.

And as far as the swing arm swap, going to a 550 swing would this affect if I plan on swapping the rear drums to a disk brakes from a CB750F2?

Yes, now that you mentioned it, I think opt-in for a frame kit upgrade since, I had such a memorable time removing the engine (I was up till 5 AM and with work at 8 AM  )

More recently I have been looking into wheels and suspensions and braking, like mentioned earlier I would like to swap my K7 drum breaks for a F2 rear disc. Also My current wheels are both 16 F+R, Id like to go 17 granted it would not interfere or would need to fabricate anything on the swing arm also a wider rear wheel is preferable too.

As far as suspension goes for the front, I wanted a GSX-R conversion, or a GL1000 with dual disk but if the money is tight, I will still probably run stock forks with progressive springs. and for the rear shocks for now I was planning to get those "Vintage Japanese Rear Shock Set" from Cognito Moto,

Can anyone tell me the differences with getting a 12.8"(325mm), 13.4" (340mm), 14.4" (365mm) the pros and cons, the benefits of different measurements? What to look for when buying shocks?

Nonetheless, I am open to any suggestions, anything that can help me have a clean looking, reliable, comfortable bike when finished.

[Davez134]

Now my question is would I still would have been able to put the bike in neutral, even if the bike was not on/running?

Yes, you can/should be able to shift through the gears. I did on mine with the engine out of the bike after a fresh rebuild just to make sure everything was in order. The only issue you may have is if the clutch plates are stuck together from sitting?

+1 on the frame kit too. It has saved me many headaches.

[fiascoelment]

Well good thing I am also going to attempt doing a complete engine haul top and bottom read through this post many times 

http://forums.sohc4.net/?topic=29364.0

So if the clutch plates are stuck together Ill probably find that out once I get to the engine portion of my build, currently my motor is covered with a black thrash bag.
If I can spend the money, ill probably have a professional do it for me, anyone knows or can recommend someone I can send the motor to if I end up going that route?

[fiascoelment]

Trying with one picture at a time

[fiascoelment]

Here are more pictures

[fiascoelment]

Figured out a way!

[fiascoelment]

Here is how my bike sits today, took this picture on Monday for Cliff from Meyerbuilt Metalworks to measure my rear loop

[calj737]

You can easily replace the F/R rims with 17" or even 18" and get new spokes, lace and true them yourself to save money. Definitely ditch the 16/16 geometry. Your PO must have been a gnome.

Those Vintage Japanese shocks are pretty much crap. At least buy some Ikons from member NobleHops (Nils @Restorationcycle). Better all around. For the rear disc, if your swing arm didn't have the stock attachments, then a 550 or 750 doesn't matter. You still need to fab a torque brace and caliper mount. Or buy it from Cognito along with a GSXR setup.

[fiascoelment]

I have ridden a motorcycle before around a parking lot and what bothered me the most is the height, I was mostly on the tip of my toes and afraid of dropping the bike. I am 5'11"

What determines ride height?

Well I am currently eyeing a 750F2 around my area and hopefully I can pick it up by the first week September if it has not sold yet  , I may use the whole rear set up from the F2.

Got it thanks Cal! From Ikons would you suggest a specific shocks?

Added to my shopping list are:

Frame Kit

[calj737]

Get in touch with Nils, he will guide you best. As for ride height, you should have no problem on a stock K7 with reaching the ground, especially if you opt for 18/18 or less.

[fiascoelment]

Cal- Noted, once I am at that part of the build, which is I hope very soon I will contact Nils, thanks for pointing me his direction.

I have also inquired about Franks Frame kit, just waiting for his response.

Do you think I can use my current shocks to mock up tires under suspension compression when I am in the process of welding the rear loop?

[calj737]

Sure can. Only if you change the length (shorter) will it make much difference in terms of conflict with the hoop.

You asked about a motor rebuilder... it would help to know what part of the world and state you're in-

[Davez134]

Your title says 110% determination. I believe with that attitude, you can/should try and tackle the motor yourself. With the knowledge of those on this forum and a few books, you can rebuild/freshen these motors with some pretty basic tools. Like you, I had never rebuilt a motor before, now I have done 2 for myself and 3 for others. They really are very simple as long as you pat attention to detail. You would save $$ and it is much more satisfying knowing you did it and things are done right. At the very least you may have to find a machine shop depending on the condition/wear of your cylinders. Just my thoughts/experience.

[Stev-o]

....but it may not even need an "overhaul"

[Davez134]

Yes, but too late to get into the get it running before you pull it discussion. Maybe a compression and leak down test?? But it's fun to take stuff apart 😜

[Stev-o]

Yes, but too late to get into the get it running before you pull it discussion. Maybe a compression and leak down test?? But it's fun to take stuff apart 😜

Leak down is a good idea.  It is fun to take stuff apart but how many baskets cases have we seen for sale from newby's that never get em back together?!

[fiascoelment]

cal- got it! granted I have stock shocks, the length should be 13" correct? Also I am located in New Jersey (North Jersey), US

Davez- I love tinkering, but sometimes there are battles I simply cannot defeat, having a "professional" contact (besides all you good people in this forums) that I can personally go to for help is a good insurance for me, last motor I worked on (helped) was a redtop S13 SR20DET to put in my 94' 240SX (oh the good times). One thing a love about the support in this community is that sources are endless, and with shops like vintageCB750, cognitomoto, MRcycles, and people like Hondaman (Mark), Dino (Hack-a-week), I don't think I would be tackling this project today.

Stev-o- I hope it doesn't, it is actually one of the first mistake I  made in this project was not trying to get the motor to start, I was to eager to tear down the bike (+1 fun=take stuff apart). How would I go about the compression and leak down test? The only thing I bought so far for my motor is a complete gasket set. My plans is to have a reliable motor that can get me to and from work (during the nice weather) , the weekend night outs, and sunday morning football/brunch  . Also to clean up, maybe going the vapor blast option (Restocycle) (I love that clean look!).

And last is I am trying not to be that type of newby. Not saying that I was never one of those newby, like mentioned before there were battles that has gotten the best of me (i.e. redtop S20DET), only reason to that is those type of project put me in a financial stress (college age mental stupidity), but few years, lessons, and experiences later has made me more financially responsible (well at least better than before). And I feel that this project is not a money pit like how my 240sx was. 

[Stev-o]

 How would I go about the leak down test?

Click here!

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=sohc4+CB750+leak+down+test

[fiascoelment]

okay i deserve that ! lol thanks stev-o

[Stev-o]

okay i deserve that ! lol thanks stev-o

My pleasure!

[fiascoelment]

So I am planning to start my engine rebuild this coming with weekend, first and foremost I will attempt to clean the motor first since I will be doing this rebuild in my bedroom (lack of space in the garage  ) So anyone have any pointers for me on how to make sure all the oil is drained out and to make the least amount of mess, I will be buying an engine stand this weekend from harbor freight (1000 lbs cap.) and the angle tabs to properly mount my engine on. also will have either a tarp or cardboard box under the stand to avoid oil spillage.

To clean the engine external I am planning to use a pressure washer, is there any other items solution I can use, I heard simple green works? My plan for the engine is to cover it with wrinkled black paint, is it worth having the covers vapor blasted then paint?

Also my plans for the frame is to have a smooth finished, therefore I decided to smoothed out some of the visible welds and I read that this is a bad idea . As you can see below pictures shows what I have done, the yellow dash is where I am going to cut the frame to install the rear loop.

So question is should I worry about the weld spots that I have smoothed out, is there anyway to remedy this? I read to properly smoothed out the frame I would have to go to the bondo way. I am planning to powdercoat my frame, will I run it to problem when using bondo?

[nvr2old]

Body filler will not stand up to the oven heat from powder coating.  You'll have to paint the frame if you want to go that route.  You can grind/smooth the welds out a bit, but you do risk losing a bit of strength if you go too far.  Problem is, you'll never get it perfectly smooth with just a grinder disk. It will show horribly under the powder coat.  I smoothed the frames on 3 of my bikes, used plastic filler for the final finish and then painted them.  They look nice, but it's a lot of work for something most people don't even see.