Author Topic: Project B7 Underway! Billet Big Block Built By Bill BentON Racing (Read 63002 times)

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #150 on:** February 18, 2018, 08:01:08 AM »

Quote from: Bill/BentON Racing on February 17, 2018, 09:32:33 PM

Just one of the larger pieces of what once was number 3 RC lightwt 12.5 to 1 record setting lol piston! It shattered into this! I was lucky....

LOL! I figured that's what that was, posted up just to see if we were paying attention? I was three bikes back in the staging lanes when that piece got lodged in there. It took the track crew 45 minutes to mop up the four quarts of oil at the finish line. The free floating rod (sans piston) nearly cut the crankcase in two like a buzzsaw leaving large windows in the upper and lower crankcase halves.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #151 on:** February 18, 2018, 10:17:56 AM »

May as well have been a chunk of gold LOL. That was an expensive pop.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #152 on:** February 18, 2018, 10:29:58 AM »

What aerated cases, lol, I got faith in Jim, going drop em off in the morning, ought be ready by lunch!
Working on big gears installation rt now, building countershaft assy. More next hour.....
Jerry, you got no idea, ok maybe, damn just the time to build one....

754 · « **Reply #153 on:** February 18, 2018, 11:05:07 AM »

Sending pm.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #154 on:** February 18, 2018, 11:49:09 AM »

I do know you can spend north of $7500 on one (and still not get it right LOL)

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #155 on:** February 18, 2018, 02:05:31 PM »

Yes you can.... I fell asleep....but here's the countershaft assembly with new big gears, damn, they much more dense, 5th counter, dog gear 30 grams more, 2nd , 50 grams more! Engagement on all 4 dogs is perfect both ways, on to the mainshaft and primary. I like it! K.

dragracer · « **Reply #156 on:** February 18, 2018, 09:39:29 PM »

Bill, I'm glad you posted this because it reminded me of some things I need to get done for the project F model engine.

I'll be packing up my crank and new Cycle Ex super rods this week to send back to Kenny. Crank will get his deluxe version modifications to include cleaning, balancing and micro polishing- I'm not a fan of lightened cranks for drag racing. The rods will get ARP bolts. Going to exchange the stock type primaries with cryo treated chains. Although this is a budget build, I'd like to put decent parts inside so it will hold up. Hopefully as long as the engine in my red F model.

scottly · « **Reply #157 on:** February 19, 2018, 06:49:38 PM »

Quote from: Bill/BentON Racing on February 18, 2018, 10:29:58 AM

What aerated cases, lol, I got faith in Jim, going drop em off in the morning, ought be ready by lunch!
Working on big gears installation rt now, building countershaft assy. More next hour.....
Jerry, you got no idea, ok maybe, damn just the time to build one....

Magic Windows?

dragracer · « **Reply #158 on:** February 19, 2018, 08:30:00 PM »

Quote from: madmtnmotors on February 18, 2018, 08:01:08 AM

Quote from: Bill/BentON Racing on February 17, 2018, 09:32:33 PM
Just one of the larger pieces of what once was number 3 RC lightwt 12.5 to 1 record setting lol piston! It shattered into this! I was lucky....

LOL! I figured that's what that was, posted up just to see if we were paying attention? I was three bikes back in the staging lanes when that piece got lodged in there. It took the track crew 45 minutes to mop up the four quarts of oil at the finish line. The free floating rod (sans piston) nearly cut the crankcase in two like a buzzsaw leaving large windows in the upper and lower crankcase halves.

To all my drag racing friends, please DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC Oil in your race bikes. If it blows up and spews oil everywhere, the track personnel catch hell cleaning that stuff up. You can use lacquer thinner to get the synthetic oil off the track. They must burn if off. This takes an lot of time and effort to get it all up. Hence, the long down town after Bill blew up his bike. Conventional oil can be mopped up with a mop once the lacquer thinner is sprayed on the track resulting in less clean up time. One last thing, if your bike cuts off, don't start looking down as to what might have happened and roll down the middle of the damn track, immediately pull the bike to the side to minimize the area that has to be cleaned up.

ITs a drag bike for goodness sake. You should be changing the oil after every race anyway so use good conventional oil and save yourself some money. That's my rant for the night on the curse of synthetic oil.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #159 on:** February 23, 2018, 06:26:43 PM »

I say, I say, did someone mention sumpin bout earl? My advice is put it in, but no oil will fix leaks,(ask Gladys) hehe! Lol. Just teasing Frankie. Tore the Chapman engine down last night...some really big disappointment's. More and pics later. Working on the bad boy! Balance weights clear fine.....

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #160 on:** February 23, 2018, 07:09:44 PM »

Odd looking tool there on the bench next to the motor. What's the cylinder bore on that one, about 9mm?

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #161 on:** February 23, 2018, 07:27:16 PM »

Yah, Taurus PT92...15 shot, lol.My Desert Eagle upstairs.

dragracer · « **Reply #162 on:** February 23, 2018, 07:30:58 PM »

Uhhh, I shut the bike down because I heard a noise. It didn't blow up going down the track. One new sleeve, one new piston, no holes in the cases. No clean up or delay at the race track.😆

kmb69 · « **Reply #163 on:** February 23, 2018, 07:44:28 PM »

Looking good Bill!

You not gonna alternate those chains?

POPS 911 · « **Reply #164 on:** February 24, 2018, 10:21:37 AM »

I thought they use SYNTHETIC oil in a drag bike to be a SLIDER for the clutch disc ?? kidding ?? or maybe to slow a fast bike down to 10.90 S/ST from a T/G 8.20 ........ RINGS would never seat on a fresh complete motor build. The folks on the Velocity Channel did a story about OIL in race motors.
POPS BK911 ST/ET

Medyo Bastos · « **Reply #165 on:** February 24, 2018, 03:01:47 PM »

Quote from: kmb69 on February 23, 2018, 07:44:28 PM

Looking good Bill!
You not gonna alternate those chains?

I was thinking the same thing

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #166 on:** February 24, 2018, 06:40:02 PM »

I did alternate them, lined up the master links, checked the directional arrows and balance marks, blessed the pins, rollers and plates and finally prelubed them in the direction of oil flow!

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #167 on:** February 26, 2018, 06:14:04 PM »

OK, I put the Apple Pie shine back on the shelf and alternated my primary chains and now time to assemble. Good eye Keith and Medyo! Lol,

, Bill

kmb69 · « **Reply #168 on:** February 26, 2018, 06:35:59 PM »

You go, boy!

dragracer · « **Reply #169 on:** February 26, 2018, 07:53:34 PM »

Quote from: Bill/BentON Racing on February 26, 2018, 06:14:04 PM

OK, I put the Apple Pie shine back on the shelf and alternated my primary chains and now time to assemble. Good eye Keith and Medyo! Lol, , Bill

So explain to me what happens when you don't stagger the chains?

kmb69 · « **Reply #170 on:** February 26, 2018, 08:37:23 PM »

Quote from: dragracer on February 26, 2018, 07:53:34 PM

Quote from: Bill/BentON Racing on February 26, 2018, 06:14:04 PM
OK, I put the Apple Pie shine back on the shelf and alternated my primary chains and now time to assemble. Good eye Keith and Medyo! Lol, , Bill

So explain to me what happens when you don't stagger the chains?

A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link(s). As I have been told by those much smarter than me, it is highly improbable that the inside links and the outside links are EQUAL in tensile strength. Close but not necessary identical. By staggering the chains, you are equalizing the total strength of the pair as best you can. How much difference does it make? I don't know but I can accept the explanation as being logically sound.

To be absolutely certain, one would have to pull several chains to failure and see if they always broke at either the outside or inside links. But "balancing" the chains makes sense to me.

kmb69 · « **Reply #171 on:** February 26, 2018, 08:46:02 PM »

Quote from: Bill/BentON Racing on February 18, 2018, 02:05:31 PM

Yes you can.... I fell asleep....but here's the countershaft assembly with new big gears, damn, they much more dense, 5th counter, dog gear 30 grams more, 2nd , 50 grams more! Engagement on all 4 dogs is perfect both ways, on to the mainshaft and primary. I like it! K.

Yep, the stock gears are castings or forgings and are not as "dense" as the billet gears. Plus the extra dog on 5th and the engagement slots don't go all the way through on 2nd. They appear to be pretty heavy duty!

dragracer · « **Reply #172 on:** February 26, 2018, 10:21:11 PM »

Quote from: kmb69 on February 26, 2018, 08:37:23 PM

Quote from: dragracer on February 26, 2018, 07:53:34 PM
Quote from: Bill/BentON Racing on February 26, 2018, 06:14:04 PM
OK, I put the Apple Pie shine back on the shelf and alternated my primary chains and now time to assemble. Good eye Keith and Medyo! Lol, , Bill

So explain to me what happens when you don't stagger the chains?

A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link(s). As I have been told by those much smarter than me, it is highly improbable that the inside links and the outside links are EQUAL in tensile strength. Close but not necessary identical. By staggering the chains, you are equalizing the total strength of the pair as best you can. How much difference does it make? I don't know but I can accept the explanation as being logically sound.

To be absolutely certain, one would have to pull several chains to failure and see if they always broke at either the outside or inside links. But "balancing" the chains makes sense to me.

Okay. But I guess I now have to admit I've been doing this wrong in my F model for over 20 years now.My logic was just the opposite of what you described above. Same chains, same orientation, hundreds of hard launches, 1/8th and 1/4 mile passes. I'd probably be wise to replace the chains when I tear it down this time and stagger them like everyone else.

bear · « **Reply #173 on:** February 26, 2018, 10:35:45 PM »

Quote from: kmb69 on February 26, 2018, 08:46:02 PM

Quote from: Bill/BentON Racing on February 18, 2018, 02:05:31 PM
Yes you can.... I fell asleep....but here's the countershaft assembly with new big gears, damn, they much more dense, 5th counter, dog gear 30 grams more, 2nd , 50 grams more! Engagement on all 4 dogs is perfect both ways, on to the mainshaft and primary. I like it! K.

Yep, the stock gears are castings or forgings and are not as "dense" as the billet gears. Plus the extra dog on 5th and the engagement slots don't go all the way through on 2nd. They appear to be pretty heavy duty!

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #174 on:** February 27, 2018, 05:47:02 AM »

Damn Frank, I've been staggering chains .......ever since ..........last night! LMAO, never had it explained or mentioned in all the year's, but at Honda school etc,by my time,the inline 4s were Hyvo, so never any discussion at school, at the shops, not in the manuals, so LMAO , learn sumpins new every day! Thanks Keith for the phone tutelage last night, Bill

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Author Topic: Project B7 Underway! Billet Big Block Built By Bill BentON Racing (Read 63002 times)