Topic: My first complete build 72 CB750 - completed for now...

[algophobe]

I chickened out and side step the issue of carb rebuild and purchased the Keihin CR31 from Dime City, jetted for 4:1 system which will be running pods eventually. I went with Pamco ignition system, which I bought way at the beginning of this project before I knew all the variety out there. Any input on running Pamco with the Motogadget M Unit Blue would be appreciated. How is the Pamco compared to other systems out there? I liked the look of the clean triangular frame, so I went with the Cognito Moto oil tank, which took a while to correctly mount because I welded the mounting bars well before test fitting with engine in place, there were some clearance issues with the oil hose and the mounting bracket for the engine. Eventually I created a aluminum offset bracket with use of spacer coupling nuts to set it at just the right angle (phew what a headache). Probably running steele braided hoses didn't make it any easier. However the use of spacer and aluminum bracket created a gap that I inadvertently could use to partially hide all the wiring that will eventually come from the harness to engine and electronics under the seat.

you can see in the last pic how I initially intended it to be mounted.

[algophobe]

then the task of wiring this money pit. I initially bought the sparkz wire harness, debated back and forth regarding running it with or without an M Unit, then after a month of research, I decided to build my own harness, drew a plan together. got a set of wires from Revival Cycles, bough some nice split looms from the local electronic shop and went at it, sacrificing the Sparkz harness for wires that wasn't provided by Revival's kit. I went with a large bucket for head lights and basic turn signals. all incandescent. gauges, rectifier/regular combo, grips, mirrors from Dime City. for the electronics control I went with motone 5 button combination. Oh and 4into1.com has great variety of connectors!

[calj737]

There’s no magic using a Pamco with the m-unit. Power the Pamco from an AUX port. Those mini gauges need diodes for the turn signal inputs to prevent bleeding power across the same line.

[algophobe]

currently working on the battery box and mountings for the solenoid/mainfuse and the rear lights/signal mounts. I came up with this set up... but it looks horrendous. I drilled some holes into the aluminum rear cowl and is regretting it. any suggestions on fixing 1 cm to 2 cm holes in aluminum?

[algophobe]

There’s no magic using a Pamco with the m-unit. Power the Pamco from an AUX port. Those mini gauges need diodes for the turn signal inputs to prevent bleeding power across the same line.

I read somewhere that if you're using incandescent lights, even with LED gauge lights, you shouldn't need diodes, however I found out that it did. diodes are in!
I had a head scratcher wiring the signal lights and figured it out. the emgo comes with 2 wires, and I thought initially that there would be no running lights... but they keep bleeding over till I figured out that the housing of the emgo turn signals was the ground and they were grounding each other out thru the headlight bucket. and in fact they were double filaments! duh!

btw. the m unit blue has separate ignition port, was aux used with the prior m unit?

[calj737]

Yeah, the prior unit only had a single AUX out, and no IGN out.

[calj737]

I drilled some holes into the aluminum rear cowl and is regretting it. any suggestions on fixing 1 cm to 2 cm holes in aluminum?

You can either weld them up, or if you can't weld aluminum, you can use Aluminum Bronze fill wire and "braze" them closed. Using a propane (preferably MAPP) gas torch, you can heat the cowl up enough that the wire will stick. A few dabs, cool, then grind flush and smooth.

[algophobe]

I drilled some holes into the aluminum rear cowl and is regretting it. any suggestions on fixing 1 cm to 2 cm holes in aluminum?

You can either weld them up, or if you can't weld aluminum, you can use Aluminum Bronze fill wire and "braze" them closed. Using a propane (preferably MAPP) gas torch, you can heat the cowl up enough that the wire will stick. A few dabs, cool, then grind flush and smooth.

possibly an opportunity to learn TIG

[calj737]

Well, not the project I’d encourage you to learn on, but...

Welding aluminum is whole different animal than carbon steel. And thin alloy is more difficult. And do you know the grade of alloy you made the cowl from? Not all aluminum welds the same, and a few grades are not weldable.

[algophobe]

finished the wiring, fabricated a mounting bracket for the tail light and rear signals, then fabbed new battery box. tested fitted the rear seat. I opted to mount the tail light this way instead of mounting directly on the cowl simply because I can't find a tail light that would fit the contour of the cowl. hopefully its not too tight in the electrical tray.

[algophobe]

Just got the new exhaust in from Cycle Exchange. I went with the rapid fire system (picture to come). I have to find bolts for them, they're M8's 1.25 threads of about 25-30 mm in length and thinking of using allen bolts. Anyone have any experience or warning about using specialty bolts from Lowe's or Home Depot?

[calj737]

I think those studs are longer, like 35-40mm. Stainless bolts from Lowe’s/Home Depot are fine, but there are better sources to get the exact right size like Fastenal. Just use some AntiSieze on the threads.

[algophobe]

Thanks for the input. Would you recommend an all thread stud then the nut to bolt it on or just go with a allen bolt? I measured the original Phillips type screw that mounts the original flange/spigot (if that's what they're called) to receive the pipes and it measures about only 20 mm length of thread with over all length of maybe 22-23 mm.  The CycleX rapid fire flange sits a little proud therefore I'm estimating it to be 25-30 mm. Ever since I saw a pic on here of a crankcase with the inside blown out from over torqueing..

[Godffery]

 A rather ambitious first build, so far looking pretty good.
Interesting cherry picker you made for Removing / installing the motor!   As for a frame kit to allow for top end work, I have installed at least 3 or 4 in past builds and LOVE'em!!! (Recommend the weld in kit, I know there is a bolt in kit now available but call me old fashion.  )

 G~

[calj737]

I don’t recommend all thread, I do prefer “Allen head” bolts.  As long as you are good with the measurements, go with what you know. 

[algophobe]

A rather ambush first build, so far looking pretty good.
Interesting cherry picker you made for Removing / installing the motor!   As for a frame kit to allow for top end work, I have installed at least 3 or 4 in past builds and LOVE'em!!! (Recommend the weld in kit, I know there is a bolt in kit now available but call me old fashion.  )

 G~

Ambush or ambitious. Yeah in retrospect I wish I had thought about it the frame kit and putting a kick in the rear hoop. But I was always worried about losing the strength of the frame in my mind. I never really intended to be this complex but definitely a great learning experience.

[Godffery]

A rather ambush first build, so far looking pretty good.
Interesting cherry picker you made for Removing / installing the motor!   As for a frame kit to allow for top end work, I have installed at least 3 or 4 in past builds and LOVE'em!!! (Recommend the weld in kit, I know there is a bolt in kit now available but call me old fashion.  )

 G~

Ambush or ambitious. Yeah in retrospect I wish I had thought about it the frame kit and putting a kick in the rear hoop. But I was always worried about losing the strength of the frame in my mind. I never really intended to be this complex but definitely a great learning experience.

Yes, ambitious.     Sorry, All I can say there in my defense is, it was late at night. 
It is possible to install the frame kit post build...
www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/RVs+750/Fraim+Kit/

[algophobe]

Your handy work? I will have to take a closer look at those pics when I have a little more time

[Godffery]

Yes, a little tricky doing the welding with the motor in place but just requires a little extra effort.

[algophobe]

has there been some screwy technical issues with the forum? a few of my posts disappeared.

[Terry in Australia]

Yeah mate, the server crashed yesterday and everything back to the 10th of December was lost. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,169783.msg1970743.html#msg1970743

[algophobe]

I guess ill just do a short repost. pipes from CycleX goes on. she starts up but runs quite rough. from the pipes you can tell coils for 2/3 isn't running. found to be a bad ground wire from harness. she ran like a v twin until i figured where it came from.

[algophobe]

next step is timing. i just barely realized that with the PAMCO system, you can't adjust the pickups separately... am i missing something?

[Davez134]

next step is timing. i just barely realized that with the PAMCO system, you can't adjust the pickups separately... am i missing something?

I emailed Pete about this when I first got my PAMCO. when I set 1/4, 2/3 was just a bit off. (first make sure your advancer shaft is true with a dial gauge though) You can move the black units on the outside of the plate closer to, or away from the plate itself to make small adjustments. I cant remember which way does which though so you may want to search or contact him. What I did was set 1/4, then adjust the 2/3 side in small increments moving away from the timing plate. It has been spot on since. (Use a small flat screwdriver, and of course with the ignition off)

[algophobe]

next step is timing. i just barely realized that with the PAMCO system, you can't adjust the pickups separately... am i missing something?

I emailed Pete about this when I first got my PAMCO. when I set 1/4, 2/3 was just a bit off. (first make sure your advancer shaft is true with a dial gauge though) You can move the black units on the outside of the plate closer to, or away from the plate itself to make small adjustments. I cant remember which way does which though so you may want to search or contact him. What I did was set 1/4, then adjust the 2/3 side in small increments moving away from the timing plate. It has been spot on since. (Use a small flat screwdriver, and of course with the ignition off)

thanks for the info. i used the timing gun to get 1/4 timed and noted a little drift in timing for 2/3. i'm assuming that you have to have ignition off to get access to the screws for the sensors?

additionally you're talking about one of these dial gauge to test for the shaft being true?
http://things-i-learned-this-week.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Yamaha-timing-adapter.jpg