Topic: Rick’s Rectifier Wiring

[rumpleblumpkinz]

Getting ready to button up the wiring on my ‘74 CB550 and I just wanted to confirm my Rick’s Reg/Rect is wired correctly. Since I’m doing a custom harness, I spliced the Rick’s unit directly to the wiring coming from the stator/field coil in this fashion:



This diagram is from the Rick’s website, however I’m starting to wonder if this was actually intended for those plugging into the harness behind the side panel, instead of wiring direct to the wiring from the engine like I did. Can anyone confirm this is how the Reg/Rect should be wired directly from the engine?  I’ve seen several diagrams that suggest the green wire from the field coil needs to be linked to a ground as well. Thanks fellas

Tom

[Yamahawk]

... Where are your fuses? You need to add at least a main fuse to this circuit, as well as fusing the ignition, headlight, and signal lights. Other than that, it looks ok. I am sure there will be another person come by and instruct you if that diagram is wrong.
When I bought my 1971 CB750, it had a home brew wiring harness with NO fuses, and a Rick's regulator. It was wired up wrong, as it would drain the battery without a cutout switch being added to the battery. I used a stock wiring diagram and stock harness, and now everything works as it should, and the Rick's VRR plugs into the harness perfectly. I recommend it.
Charlie

[rumpleblumpkinz]

The diagram posted is strictly for the charging circuit. It was taken from the Rick’s website, but this is how the charging circuit on my bike is currently wired. I am also running a small fuse box for all the essentials

[Spanner 1]

Does the bike charge ?

[Yamahawk]

The diagram posted is strictly for the charging circuit. It was taken from the Rick’s website, but this is how the charging circuit on my bike is currently wired. I am also running a small fuse box for all the essentials

Cool, need those fuses
Now the white, green and Black wires the used to connect to the old regulator, also connect to the Rick's VRR, and the Yellows, and the rest go to the battery and the Rectifier side of the VRR. I believe you have it hooked up correctly, just remember not to power the field coil directly or it will be energized all the time... and, as Spanner 1 asked, Is It Charging?
Charlie

[rumpleblumpkinz]

Thanks for the time fellas. I’m still finishing up the wiring harness so I can’t test the charging system yet. Just trying to make sure I got the charging circuit correct. I’ll probably call Rick’s tomorrow to verify with them

[Erwin83]

Getting ready to button up the wiring on my ‘74 CB550 and I just wanted to confirm my Rick’s Reg/Rect is wired correctly. Since I’m doing a custom harness, I spliced the Rick’s unit directly to the wiring coming from the stator/field coil in this fashion:



This diagram is from the Rick’s website, however I’m starting to wonder if this was actually intended for those plugging into the harness behind the side panel, instead of wiring direct to the wiring from the engine like I did. Can anyone confirm this is how the Reg/Rect should be wired directly from the engine?  I’ve seen several diagrams that suggest the green wire from the field coil needs to be linked to a ground as well. Thanks fellas

Tom

Bump of an old topic, but still relevant (at least to me  ).

For my understanding: the white wire (for the field coil), should be getting 12V when the bike is not running, but ignition switch on. Right?

If this does not happen, the generator does not get energized and no AC will be generated at all.

Is my thinking correct?

Reason asking:
I installed a reg-rec combo much like rick's version in this topic, but my white wire is not getting any voltage.
(i'm not getting any charging either, clearly).

[Bodi]

Field coil power comes from the regulator, from its switched power black wire, on the white wire. The green is probably internally connected to the R/R's larger green ground wire and thus to frame ground... it doesn't matter then whether or not you also ground the field coil green as well, but it must connect to a field coil wire.
If the R/R has battery voltage on black and its green grounded the white wire voltage should be very close to the black wire voltage with engine not running. That voltage goes down with engine running when black wire voltage gets to around 14.5 VDC indicating a fully charged battery.

[Erwin83]

Field coil power comes from the regulator, from its switched power black wire, on the white wire. The green is probably internally connected to the R/R's larger green ground wire and thus to frame ground... it doesn't matter then whether or not you also ground the field coil green as well, but it must connect to a field coil wire.

OK, yes I get power on the black wire (from ignition switch) into the regulator. And I have power to the red wire (direct to battery) as well.
Green is ground. There used to be 2 ground wires, one for the Rec - one for the Reg. New situation: the ground wire originally going to the regulator is not used anymore.

If the R/R has battery voltage on black and it's green grounded the white wire voltage should be very close to the black wire voltage with engine not running. That voltage goes down with engine running when black wire voltage gets to around 14.5 VDC indicating a fully charged battery.

This adds up, apart from the white wire not getting any power.
I checked on my other CB (which still has the old 2 components), and white indeed turns on when ignition is on.

So I guess I have to conclude that the R/R is broken inside, not being able to put any power on white...
Agree?

thanks for taking the time to help out.

[Erwin83]

Did a little test: I had another old fashioned regulator laying around. So I unplugged the black and white from the new R/R combo, but let the 5 pin connector installed (using the R/R combo purely as a rectifier) and connected the old regulator.

Presto! I have charging power now. So the R/R combo must have some problem inside with the rectifier.
Bummer.

Is there any harm in riding with a R/R combo with the regulator unplugged, and using an old fashioned regulator instead?
I have no idea of the inner workings of a combined R/R.

[Bodi]

The R/R module has two independent things inside, the 3 phase rectifier and the regulator. If you disconnect the R/R black wire the regulator is disabled and you can use the original regulator without any problems.
Just the 3 yellows, larger green (if there are two) and the red need to be connected.
Might you have a R/R for DOHC engines? These control the field opposite to how it's done with the SOHC system, the field coil gets switched battery all the time and the regulator controls the ground side. If yours has no small green wire, this is a definite possibility. You can use one by just changing the field coil wiring.

[Erwin83]

Well, It was advertised as a direct fit for a SOHC honda. It is just a cheap chinese ebay unit though..
The plug (3x yellow, big green, red) is a direct fit, and than there are 2 separate wires black and white that fit directly into the regulator loom. Only the ground wire for the old regulator is left unused (honda wiring loom). There is no small green wire on the R/R unit.

How can I test if this is in fact a Dohc version, before adjusting the wiring accordingly?

At least it’s good to know I can safely continue riding my bike with the old regulator hooked up. There’s other jobs to complete as well, like carb set up etc. I won’t be stopped in my tracks.

Thanks again

[Bodi]

DOHC regulator: Wire a 12V test light (signal lamp bulb is good) between battery + and the R/R white wire. Connect the field coil white wire directly and only to a black wire (this puts the alternator full on). Switch key on and then start the engine, while you measure voltage on the black wire. With a fully charged battery and 100% alternator output the voltage should rise fairly quickly above 14.5VDC if you rev the engine a bit. Don't leave the engine running for long above 15V as the battery really dislikes that.
If this is a negative regulator (DOHC4 type) the bulb should light when you switch on (meaning the regulator is asking for high alternator output), with engine running it should dim as black wire voltage gets somewhere above 13V, going fully out if voltage is above 14.5V (for no alternator output).

Same test works with a SOHC4 regulator but you connect the lamp between ground and the white wire. The mechanical regulator will have the lamp flickering quickly at around 13-14V as it has 3 states - full on, part on, and full off... switching between them pretty quickly in normal use as the battery approaches full charge.

If you get no light either way... the regulator is dead.

"It is just a cheap chinese ebay unit though.."  It is a distant possibility that this is a shunt regulator. These keep the alternator at 100% (lamp stays bright one way or the other above) and the module dumps excess power into an internal load resistor. This is how many modern bikes with permanent magnet alternators work. It is not recommended for a SOHC4 (although it works) as the field coil alternator is not designed for full output all the time and can overheat and be damaged. It's a possibility you have one if the lamp stays on full bright regardless of black wire voltage. I really doubt you have this type though. I don't know what one would do with the R/R black wire disconnected but, with it connected, it should limit battery voltage to 14.5V or so... and get pretty danged hot if you rev the engine with headlight disconnected since it's dumping a lot of power into its resistor in that condition.

[Erwin83]

Absolutely crystal clear explanation. I'll try these steps out later today and report back.

[Erwin83]

Tried the test method with the light bulb, and with the new R/R module, I’m not getting any light.
With an old regulator, I indeed get a light on.

So, I will conclude that the regulator in the new R/R module is bad and order a new one.
With an old fashioned regulator wired up next to the R/R module, I’m getting a beautiful 13,8-14,4 V charge now.

Thanks for the help!

[Deltarider]

So, I will conclude that the regulator in the new R/R module is bad and order a new one.
With an old fashioned regulator wired up next to the R/R module, I’m getting a beautiful 13,8-14,4 V charge now.

Then... why order a new one? My 'old fashioned' regulator has worked flawlessly for the past 44 years... And after every ride I return home with a better charged battery than I took of with.

[Spanner 1]

Yes Delta.... pisses me off that folks just throw away the stock reg. 'cos they think the solid state one HAS to be better. Not so with our wet batteries, and not so with our ( sohc4 ) charging systems.
That wiring diagram is WRONG imo, the Field Coil's Green must be grounded too. Both Greens in dia MUST be grounded, rant over .

[Erwin83]

No reason to rant boys. I built this bike from scratch from parts I had laying around after owning my other CB for 17 years. I didn't have a rectifier in my 'stock', so instead of buying an old fashioned rectifier and using 2 seperate components, I decided to buy a combo and modernize the wiring loom as well. Less components = less space needed under the seat (yes it's a cafe racer)

In my other original bike, I'm running  original components without any problem.

Now the bike is already built, I have no more space to go back to the 2 separate units.

[The Sovereign Man]

Those ranting are the same that always rant, they can't help themselves.