Topic: 75 supersport rear brake compatability

[jakethesnake]

I'm dreading tearing apart my rear brake and finding out why it sticks so bad, so I was thinking I'd try to find a replacement for cheap.  What years and models are compatible with a 75  750 supersport rear disk brake?

[kettlesd]

In all probability the reason its sticking is corrosion inside the caliper and on the piston, preventing the piston from retracting. Pop the caliper off, remove the pads, pump the pedal a few times to push the piston out and give 'er a good cleaning. Change the fluid when your done.

You'd have to remove the caliper and change the fluid anyway to replace the old one, so why not have a look? Save yourself some $$$$ to spend on other bits!

[gerhed]

 --Had the same problem with my '75 CB750F
--I found if I tapped firmly on the inside of each rear pad it would release.
--then rolled the bike back & forth and put on the brake
--repeated this proceedure several times and the brake finally freed up.
This is a prescription and not a solution to the problem, however.

Of course I'm a guy who got the Cycle-X carbs inorder to avoid endless screwing around so maybe I shouldn't be
listened to.

[kettlesd]

I should add btw, that corrosion could be causing the pads themselves to stick in the bore - and may not be the piston at all. I implied it in my first post but after re-reading it I realised I may not have been all that clear.

[Hockers Choppers]

My 78 ss was doing that. the rear brake would drag real bad. I took apart, cleaned  and recleaned. There is a little tiny hole in the master cylinder that was plugged. If you unscrew the nipple that the reservoir is attached to there are two holes, a larger and a very small. You can barely see the small one but it returns the fluid and has to be clear. Anyway you might check it. When I had it all apart I added a braided stainless steel line and used dot 5 fluid so I will never have to do it again!!!
Good luck.

[Steve F]

A couple of things.  First, be sure the pads aren't worn down too far to cause the pistons to over extend to the point that they get cocked in the bores.
Second, take it apart and clean it out really good.  Replace the seals and the "O" ring that goes between the two halves, flush the whole rear system out really good and bleed.
BTW, the '75 and '76 (as far as I know) are the only two years that used those rear calipers on the 750F.  If you have the stock rear brake hose, replace that too. 

[Hockers Choppers]

When I took mine apart it looked like someone put a table spoon of grease in the caliper! it was nasty! Thats why I went to the dot 5. I have an extra stainless steel rear brake line that will fit your bike. Let me know it you need it.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Your only Honda replacement is a 75 or 76. Same bike. Different colors. After 76 Honda went with a single piston whereas we have double pistons. I have a 75. My assumption is that our bikes lock up the rear wheel with such ease they down graded the rear brake to try to prevent this. I have NO PROBLEM with a great brake! I have learned how to handle it. My prescription (they don't call me Rxman for nothing) is to take the rear caliper apart and check it out. Mainly look for corrosion on the pistons and cylinders. If the condition isn't beyond repair due to excessive pitting (how do you define this?! - post some pix) then clean it up, lube it (silicone lube), install new seals and put it back together. New pads wouldn't hurt. Use crocus cloth lubed with brake fluid to clean the pistons and bores. Flush/rinse well. Once this has been accomplished I'd prescribe Speed Bleeder #SB8125 or SB8125SS (stainless steel) #1  Sig: Install stat and quickly bleed the #$%* outta it. Repeat the bleed procedure q year c fresh fluid. Refill prn which should be never if this procedure is followed.

[Seeparkfly]

Your only Honda replacement is a 75 or 76. Same bike. Different colors. After 76 Honda went with a single piston whereas we have double pistons. I have a 75. My assumption is that our bikes lock up the rear wheel with such ease they down graded the rear brake to try to prevent this. I have NO PROBLEM with a great brake! I have learned how to handle it. My prescription (they don't call me Rxman for nothing) is to take the rear caliper apart and check it out. Mainly look for corrosion on the pistons and cylinders. If the condition isn't beyond repair due to excessive pitting (how do you define this?! - post some pix) then clean it up, lube it (silicone lube), install new seals and put it back together. New pads wouldn't hurt. Use crocus cloth lubed with brake fluid to clean the pistons and bores. Flush/rinse well. Once this has been accomplished I'd prescribe Speed Bleeder #SB8125 or SB8125SS (stainless steel) #1  Sig: Install stat and quickly bleed the #$%* outta it. Repeat the bleed procedure q year c fresh fluid. Refill prn which should be never if this procedure is followed.

I want to fit a F2 single piston rear caliper on my F0, would it fit if I replaced the bracket and the caliper? From your post it sounds like it's not a direct swap for the calipers only. Is that right?

[fatmatt650]

I'm not sure but I own both. If you don't get an answer over the weekend I'll be happy to take a look and see if there's any obvious compatibility issues when I get from a trip this weekend.

[Seeparkfly]

I'm not sure but I own both. If you don't get an answer over the weekend I'll be happy to take a look and see if there's any obvious compatibility issues when I get from a trip this weekend.

Cool, Pacifica... I lived in Pacific Manor with a girlfriend back in the day right behind the Safeway next to Chit Chat Cafe. Good times. Anyhow, if you have the time to check those calipers that would be great.

Cheers.