Topic: Tuning-Or trying to

[Phoenix]

Stock except 836 kit and H/M ignition.  Brand new plugs.
Adjusted dwell with a meter.  When I tried the timing light, instead of seeing the "F" as I should have, I saw the "1" in 1-4 and the "2" in 2-4 after moving the plate as far clockwise as it would go.  Points and plate are TEC.  When I went to run it, some of the time it would run up thru the gears, it worked fine.  I was hitting it hard.  Most of the time it would pop and miss out, in any gear, when less than 3000 rpm.  Like when going from stoplight to stoplight.  Does any of this make any sense.  I'm sick of pissing my summer away trying to get my steed to run.

[calj737]

Most of the time it would pop and miss out, in any gear, when less than 3000 rpm.

Are you describing an "igntion" issue or a "transmission" issue when you say "pop and miss out"? I hope you're referring to a spark event given the reference earlier to timing marks.

If you removed the igntion plate, and the points cam, it is possible you installed the point cam 180* out. There's a very faint dimple on the circumference that aligns to a spot on the ignition plate. This can cause problems aligning the timing marks.

With your 836 kit, did you use a stock camshaft or aftermarket? Did you degree in the cam? Do you have an adjustable cam sprocket, or is everything other than the overbore fully stock?

Avoid shifting the bike under 3,000 RPMs too. Thats lugging the engine and your SOHC doesn't prefer that rev range. Crank it up above 6,000 and run it nearer to 9,000. Your motor will thank you, and your grin will increase like it was fueled by Viagra

[seanbarney41]

If you have not already, make sure your advancer works properly.   And as Cal mentioned, make sure it is assembled properly.

[Phoenix]

Thanks for the responses.  I just put the engine back together after having the head off.  This is leading me to believe I might have been 180 degrees off when I timed the cam.  I guess there is no way to check that short of taking it apart again.  I could swear I checked it before locking it up but you what thats worth.  I'll keep you posted.

[calj737]

Hold tight- The "camshaft" can't really go in 180* out. We are talking about the points cam under the right side round cover. The advancer mechanism is a cam behind the points plate. This can easily be checked by simply removing the cover, and verifying the alignment dimples while the motor sits in the frame.

[Phoenix]

Cal
Do you realize what you just saved me.  I was all set to jump back in.  I haven't touched the cam plate you are showing.  I had it off about four years ago to check the advance but not since.  I replaced the points and plate about two years ago when I went to H/M's ignition.  So based on that, how come I can't adjust the plate far enough to get to "F" when I time it.

[scottly]

The point gap is probably too large. Reset it to .012".
If the point cam is 180* out, like flyin900's was, the motor won't run at all, Cal.

[Phoenix]

What dwell would that be?

[TwoTired]

What dwell would that be?

The actual dwell is 190 degrees (point closure timing).  Most dwell meters have their own interpretation.  Most popular seems to be about 47 degrees.

This was found by carefully setting the point gap on brand new points and noting what is displayed on the dwell meter.

Cheers,

[Phoenix]

Well, I adjusted the points so I could time it at the "F" mark.  The gaps came out to 11 to 12.  Still missing out like a bandit.

[scottly]

Now that your timing is properly set, when did the "missing" start? Define "missing"; to me, that means a cylinder sometimes doesn't fire, but does fire most of the time.
First thing I would do is remove the spark plugs and examine the tips. Pics might help with the diagnosis.