Topic: Hondabond 4

[evinrude7]

I honestly can’t remember but here is a photo, probably taken just before the pr3vious one.  If I did it would have been a very thin layer.  The head is clean because MRieck did the head work.  I just painted the external surfaces and bolted it all together.  As I said previously, the engine is not yet in the frame.  All the parts of the project are in Spain where I will retire soon to build it.

Looks terrific. Get to that retirement. What part of Spain?

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[Gamma]

25 miles north of Alicante😄

[evinrude7]

Bolts and motor mount plates next. Hopefully it'll come out.

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[PeWe]

I put the sealer UNDER the pucks on their seats in the head so they will be "glued" in place.

Here an old photo when I still had my favorite sealer no longer available. Rubber pucks to be placed in place, clean the sealer creeping up. I use acetone for that and before applying the sealer.

[evinrude7]

It's out. A buddy came by and we got it out in seconds.

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[evinrude7]

how are the valve guides and seals determined to be in need of replacement? 

[ekpent]

  Is it smoking when its running or on start-up ?  You will have to disassemble the head to check them out. When the head is off I would flip it over level for starters and fill the combustion chambers with a thin liquid and look for some leaky valves at the seats and if you find those you have a real reason to get in there for some refurb and lapping. Things will get expensive fast if you get in too deep unless really needed.
  Congrats on getting your first "engine removal badge" !

[evinrude7]

  Is it smoking when its running or on start-up ?  You will have to disassemble the head to check them out. When the head is off I would flip it over level for starters and fill the combustion chambers with a thin liquid and look for some leaky valves at the seats and if you find those you have a real reason to get in there for some refurb and lapping. Things will get expensive fast if you get in too deep unless really needed.
  Congrats on getting your first "engine removal badge" !

yeah when do they mail out the badge?  no smoking the bike idles and runs strong.  the leaky pucks are why i decided to remove the motor.  i took care of all the other leaks on the bike with the motor in.  oil pan, stator cover, trans cover.  this was the last one.  i was sort of dreading it but so far everything has been fairly easy. 

[evinrude7]

finally got to the pucks. Thanks for the tip on releasing the cam chain tensioner Eric (ekpent). I knew I was forgetting something when trying to slide the cam out.

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[seanbarney41]

I recommend re-torqueing the the cylinder head while you are there.  After dealing with leaky pucks, you are really gonna appreciate how much cleaner your bike stays.

[evinrude7]

I recommend re-torqueing the the cylinder head while you are there.  After dealing with leaky pucks, you are really gonna appreciate how much cleaner your bike stays.

Will do Sean. My shop manual is on my busted laptop's hd. What's the torque value for those?

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[seanbarney41]

I recommend re-torqueing the the cylinder head while you are there.  After dealing with leaky pucks, you are really gonna appreciate how much cleaner your bike stays.

Will do Sean. My shop manual is on my busted laptop's hd. What's the torque value for those?

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I believe it is 15-16ftlb but I am not sure.  I will usually push it up to 18-20 depending on overall condition of engine.  Don't try that with a crappy torque wrench.  You need to look it up though because I think the order is much more important than the exact number.  Also don't forget there are those little 6mm screw/bolts.  Just snug 'em up when you are done.  Often, I find the head gasket has squished down considerably, resulting in just barely tight head nuts.

[evinrude7]

I recommend re-torqueing the the cylinder head while you are there.  After dealing with leaky pucks, you are really gonna appreciate how much cleaner your bike stays.

Will do Sean. My shop manual is on my busted laptop's hd. What's the torque value for those?

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I believe it is 15-16ftlb but I am not sure.  I will usually push it up to 18-20 depending on overall condition of engine.  Don't try that with a crappy torque wrench.  You need to look it up though because I think the order is much more important than the exact number.  Also don't forget there are those little 6mm screw/bolts.  Just snug 'em up when you are done.  Often, I find the head gasket has squished down considerably, resulting in just barely tight head nuts.

thanks sean i'll try to download the shop manual i had to this laptop.  or i'll look in my copy of mark's book.

[seanbarney41]

Hondaman's book has all the info you need!

[evinrude7]

Hondaman's book has all the info you need!

yup.  found it.

[evinrude7]

i've had my header clamps sitting in kerosene for 2 weeks (very rusty) since pulling the motor out of the frame.  does anyone see an issue with this other than the fact that i can't find the time to finish the job, yet?

[evinrude7]

For the life of me I cannot get the fuking cam chain back on.

revised:  fuking cam chain is on the cam sprocket.  cam is in.  cock sucker tried to cheat me out of a locating pin but i won. 

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[ekpent]

 Did you re-torque the head nuts while you had things apart ? Just curious if any of them seemed loose.

[evinrude7]

Did you re-torque the head nuts while you had things apart ? Just curious if any of them seemed loose.

retorqued yes.  they were slightly loose eric.