Topic: Electrical Issues / Turn signal question

[jjfuller23@gmail.com]

I realize this is an exhausted topic, but from the archives I can't find my answer. Anything you guys got I appreciate.

Got the 1977 CB550K after it's 20+ year nap. Got it running but turn signals would only blink while moving down the road. Put a dyna ignition, ricks reg/rec, new flasher in, installed new single filament 2 wire turn signals in front, haven't gotten to rear yet. Also cut the turn signal chirper/alarm out. I have tried both connecting those two chirper wires and leaving them separated. When I turn the key I have no tail light but I have working turn signals but I keep blowing tail or main fuses, depending whether the chirper wires are connected. I can't seem to get a working tail light (brake light works fine) and I'm going broke blowing fuses!

I was really hoping not to have to dig into electrical on this thing, just install the parts that seem to often go bad so that the bike is reliable and then get out and enjoy the thing.

Any thoughts you old timers and OGs have is appreciated.

[my name is nobody]

your front signal lights also serve as running lights, and should run 2 filament bulbs, not
single filament. Try removing them and see if the fuses stop burning out. There may be other issues, but I'd start there. Then verify your sockets are wired correctly...mho.

[jjfuller23@gmail.com]

I’ll give that a shot. Any thoughts on what to do with the leftover turn signal beeper wires?

And what do you mean by sockets?

[Don R]

 Your turn signals should be wired to a blue on one side and orange on the other, the ground is a green. The wires that were formerly your running lights go disconnected. Br/W?  I'm guessing you used the two hot wires to connect the single filament lights.
 I believe nobody thought you put single bulbs into dual sockets.  Not sure on the beeper wires, I'd guess leave them disconnected probably in the headlamp bucket.

[my name is nobody]

After thinking about it, single filament bulbs wouldn't fit dual sockets. Don's probably correct.

[Don R]

 They don't fit, but I've seen it done. lol. I think he has aftermarket turn signals. Sometimes I assume too much and get in trouble but this is my bestest guess.

[robvangulik]

Install a simple lamp (temporarily) in place of the fuse, it will light up instead of burning out like the fuse..

[jjfuller23@gmail.com]

Install a simple lamp (temporarily) in place of the fuse, it will light up instead of burning out like the fuse..

Nice! Thanks for that.

Yes, after market signals.


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[TwoTired]

If they only blink when the engine is revved up, you likely have a voltage issue.  Original style flashers are voltage a load sensitive.  Wrong bulbs do them in,  as can voltage losses in keyswitch and fuse box assembly.

The flash rate can be band-aided by choosing a flasher that is neither load or voltage sensitive.

But, a lurking voltage loss in the system will likely just bite you later.   

Find out how much your black wire distributes compared to actual battery voltage.  A drop test like one probe on BATT + and the other probe on Black, will display a difference or loss.  If over 0.5V, there is an issue to correct.
The same ought to be done the green wire to BATT-.  The two numbers summed for total system error.  The test conditions matter.  The more load on the systems, the more faulty components will lose in voltage drop accross them.  So have everything turned on for the test.

How your fuses blow can be another indication.  True overcurrent and they will blow in center of the glass, as they are a bit thinner there.  If they blow at the ends, it unlikely an overcurrent, but rather a heating issue of the fuse clips (oxidation) or back of unit connections (solder starvation).  The clips can lose temper and not grab the fuse hard, also.  Should need a pry tool to remove those fuses.  They can be warm after a run, but, if they are hot enough to blister your thumb, there's your issue.

You've got some things to check...

Cheers,