Topic: Help! I need some help with the push throttle cable on my cb550

[telupo]

Need help with push throttle cable!
For whatever reason I can’t seem to get my push cable far enough to catch on the latch? hook? Am I missing something? Is there a trick to this? The pull cable on the top fits perfectly well but the on on the bottom seems to short by about 5 mm when I pull it, and I’m sure it’s the right cable. Is seems like a pretty straight forward task. Also, it’s a 1978 and the engine is a 550e-21 etc Thanks!

[Robbo]

The pull cable is slightly longer than the push cable in overall length.  Double-check you haven’t mixed them up.

Your pull cable looks really tight.  Is the throttle open or closed in your photo?  Have you loosened the cable at the handlebar for maximum play?  Also, loosen the locknut at the carb end of the cable and try fitting the push cable.

Here’s a photo of my ‘75 550k for reference (throttle is closed/off).




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[telupo]

Thanks for the reply! I’m not sure what you mean but the throttle being closed. I haven’t attached the cables to the throttle sleeve on the handle bar. My issue seems to be that the wire isn’t long enough for the cable sleeve to fit on the latch. Here’s a pic from the other side of the butterfly valve.

[Shtonecb500]

did you change handle bars?

[bryanj]

You need to get both cables fitted at carb end BEFORE trying to adjust anything

[AlekStooge]

I struggled with this recently on my 1978 CB 550K. +1 attach them at the throttle first then then at the bars. Make sure you pull through plenty of cable through the housing at the bar end so it's easier to put the cables on the throttle tube. You might have to experiment with routing them different ways. Are these stock bars?

[Robbo]

Thanks for the reply! I’m not sure what you mean but the throttle being closed. I haven’t attached the cables to the throttle sleeve on the handle bar. My issue seems to be that the wire isn’t long enough for the cable sleeve to fit on the latch. Here’s a pic from the other side of the butterfly valve.

You mentioned in your other thread on the same topic that both cables that you bought are identical and from two different suppliers.  They should not be identical so before you go any further, remove both the cables off the bike and check the measurements against the below screenshot taken off the 4into1 website:



Btw, throttle closed means position at idle.

If you look closely at the visible cable showing in our two photos, there are noticeable differences between your throttle bell-crank position and mine.

Here’s a pic from my Clymer manual as confirmation for how it should look:



First and foremost, step 1 is to check measurements of both cables off the bike.  Do that and post your findings here.

Also, in future please don’t post the same question/problem in two different places on the same forum.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Scott S]

 The push and pull cables are different,  both at the carb end and at the throttle end. Can you post pics of yours? Do you still have the part #'s of what you ordered?

 They're also different for the '71-'76 bikes and the '77-'78.

 Sounds like you may have two pull cables or a push cable for an early bike. You can always just run the pull cable and omit the push cable.

[Deltarider]

You don't really need one. Mine is still in its packaging. Since the mid 80s...

[Bodi]

It really looks like your bellcrank is where it should be at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle. I doubt that should affect cable fit but with the cables not hooked to a throttle tube, the carbs should be closed fully to the idle stop. If they are... something is quite wrong with the linkages. As in the drawing, the pull bellcrank should be well away from the pull cable mount.
Measure your cables and see if they are correct. Different cables for different height bars will have different sleeve lengths but the cores sticking out should be the same length.

[telupo]

Thanks for all the replies. What I meant is that I purchased two push cables from different suppliers, one from 4into1.com and the other from a local bike shop. However, I did notice the bell crank/butterfly valve where the cables are attacked (can be seen on my second pick) doesn’t seem to look like the pics shown on the clymer manual or the pic sent? Could this be the issue as I’m definitely not the first owner? Also, how well would the bike work with only a pull (top) cable?
Thanks again, it’s a great community!

[Scott S]

 I think it's because those are PD carbs and the pics you are seeing are earlier -'76 carbs. I have a set of PD carbs on a bike right now, no throttle cable attached, and the bell crank looks like yours. And I'm positive they're bench synched correctly and the slides aren't too high.

[CbBrat550]

Hey man! I am having trouble with this same issue. I just wanted to see if you figured it out! I do believe they don't make any reproduction of the correct lengths we need for these PD carbs. I recommend making your own! I am about to do that for mine as soon as the kit gets here. I had been frustrated with every pair of cables I bought that didn't work, and I luckily found the original cables that were on the bike. The other post was right about the core lengths being the same but housing being changed due to different bars and what not! I am running clubman bars on mine instead of the original tall chrome bars. I also believe you have the push and pull mixed up! Lemme know if any of this helps, Ill post pics of what I end up with later.